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MB 74mm Oil Filter Tool --> Even better than Hazet?

Jlaa

OG ⏰ 500E
Staff member
While randomly browsing the Internet today I ran across this MB 74mm Oil Filter Wrench tool -

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What are the two holes and bolts for? Are the holes supposed to allow you accommodate for a seized oil filter, i.e. drill holes in the seized filter and then crank the bolts into the holes to get the filter out?

If so, that's even nicer than the Hazet I have which has no such provision, though I suppose I could drill holes in the 6 "bosses" on the bottom side of the Hazet. Anyways, I was intrigued, so I decided to share.

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For anyone interesting... 103-589-02-09-00 appears to still be available, maybe? ~$40 at RevParts dealers:

 
Yes, that's the standard MB oil filter cover tool that works on the M103, M104 and various other models. It is made by Matador. I think I bought mine back in 1997, when I got my first M103 engined Benz (a 1992 300TE wagon, bought via Rasmussen Mercedes-Benz of Portland).

In fact, I believe it is the very first MB special tool I ever purchased, followed not long after by the drain plug wrench made by Hazet, which I purchased for my 300SEL 6.3. I still use it often today, when changing the oil on my 1995 G320.

The bolts are there to push the tool's metal cap away from the top of the filter housing cap, in case the cap gets "stuck" inside the tool. I have never had this happen, though. The below photo is a partial view of one of several drawers in my tool chest containing specifically MB special tools (as well as a home-made Allen key for draining differentials, transfer cases, and so forth).

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Nice! It has holes on the circumference too, which might help w/ seized metal canister oil filters!
NOTE - I use my 74.4mm oil filter wrench w my sport-beetle's two oil filters and my w210's m112 plastic oil filter housing cap.

[500Eboard] 1714932513719.jpeg
 
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The bolts threaded on top are in their "un-deployed" position.The top cap of the oil filter housing that threads off, and the filter snaps onto (M104), gets rounded off over time and loses tolerance for the tool to grab it properly. So the top screw is then removed and threaded onto the side hole to pinch the cap tight to allow it to grip and remove/install the cap. I'm at this point with my cap on my M104 but have slacked on ordering a new one, which isn't urgent since the tool is designed for such a scenario.

Ironically, I discovered this use case the first time the tool slipped on the cap and had the "aha" moment.
 
I’ve owned three M104s (all with the black plastic oil filter housing cap) and never experienced a strippage of the cap and tool. Interesting. And I have always changed my M104 oil in the 2,000-3,000 mile range, so fairly often.
 
I’ve owned three M104s (all with the black plastic oil filter housing cap) and never experienced a strippage of the cap and tool. Interesting. And I have always changed my M104 oil in the 2,000-3,000 mile range, so fairly often.
I’m about to do an oil change in the coming days. I’ll post a video of what I’m describing. Maybe that’s not the intended use case but to me it seems exactly what it was designed for. About to hit 300k (owned since 62k) perhaps over the years I’ve put too much torque when threading the cap…and the engineers expected duds like me doing exactly that.
 
I am going to get that MB oil filter tool and sell my Hazet 2169 (which incidentally is the only Hazet tool I own!)

I will use the MB tool to avoid the following, which seems to happen with regularity to sport beetles even though owners like me are always amply lubing up the gasket and careful to not apply too much installation torque. Maybe these seize due to excessive thermal variance due to less precise engine heat management with non-liquid cooled engines. 🤷‍♂️


(You are looking at a seized oil filter which the Hazet slipped on, which then required using a cheap oil filter tool w 4 screws sunk through the tool / filter to remove).
 

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Ok nevermind. I received the MB tool. It works as designed- you can take the bolts out of the top and put them into the holes on the side to really grip onto a metal canister oil filter. ✅. However, without the bolts, the MB tool has a lot more slop than the Hazet when tested with a Mahle OC213 oil filter. If the Hazet has 1.5 mm of rotational slop, then the MB tool has 3mm of slop. I will keep the Hazet 74.4mm tool and use the MB tool only in situations where the Hazet slips off a seized filter.

Also, @gerryvz, wrt your lovely toolbox pictures, I found that a 22mm socket works with the MB tool …. I did not try a 7/8” socket to see which has less slop when driving the MB tool.
 
My socket tool is polished chrome. I crudely cut it to fit (it was too long) when I redid the C126 fuel business. Loaned to another member (@7delta) and he polished it and milled my efforts smooth before he returned it. I did not see a way to perform the W124 tank strainer without other systems removal first (diffy drop) so I moved on from that thought since I was out of jack stands with an exhaust removal.
 
Also, @gerryvz, wrt your lovely toolbox pictures, I found that a 22mm socket works with the MB tool …. I did not try a 7/8” socket to see which has less slop when driving the MB tool.
There is a very slight slop with the 7/8" socket, but it's an old socket that I had laying around 20-some years ago, so I just dedicated it to use in conjunction with the MB filter tool. It's at the bottom center of my toolbox drawer photo. It's always worked fine, so I've never bothered to actually reach into my tool drawer and get the "proper" 22mm socket.

About the only thing I use "standard" sockets and wrenches for these days, are the non-powertrain (which is Volvo Penta, made in Sweden) components on my boat. Because they couldn't make the boat metric stem to stern, they needed to make it mixed standard and metric to keep things interesting.
 

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