Which balljoint separating tool to get?

[Jlaa]

I wish to separate my own balljoints on my 1990s MB and Porsche cars. I don’t own any new ginormous stuff —- no GL550s or B!W X7s in this household.. just 124, 210, and 993 cars. For my first task, I wish to replace the tierods in my 993.

Which balljoint removal tool is best for this usage? A “generic” set of three types like this?

Amazon.com

Or a set of one type “jaw clamp” with multiple different sized ends?

Amazon.com

 

[gsxr]

jlaa, the ball joints on the 124 are not a press fit, and should come apart relatively easily.

However, the tie rod ends and drag link ends are a press fit and these can be a real headache to separate.

Is the Klann shown below still available anywhere? I found this works fairly well on the steering links, but clearance is TIGHT for the drag links, because the tool must be on the top side and there's almost zero space to the chassis/frame. The factory drag link tool 124-589-02-33-00 (for the larger M12 joints) is ideal but costs ±$550, and also might be NLA.

 

[Jlaa]

jlaa, the ball joints on the 124 are not a press fit, and should come apart relatively easily.

However, the tie rod ends and drag link ends are a press fit and these can be a real headache to separate.

Is the Klann shown below still available anywhere? I found this works fairly well on the steering links, but clearance is TIGHT for the drag links, because the tool must be on the top side and there's almost zero space to the chassis/frame. The factory drag link tool 124-589-02-33-00 (for the larger M12 joints) is ideal but costs ±$550, and also might be NLA.

View attachment 185060 View attachment 185061

Thanks! How come you are using the coffee-press type removal tool for the tie rod end which requires top-side clearance? (and how come you didn't remove the wheel?)
Here is a pic of the jaw-type that my shop used on my tie-rod end a few years ago ---- looks like bottom access (easier) is all that is needed?



Here he was using the super-nice Hazet jaw-type on the drag link:





I guess this is the difference between the generic-jaw-types and the sized-jaw-types that I am struggling with:

 

[gsxr]

Thanks! How come you are using the coffee-press type removal tool for the tie rod end which requires top-side clearance?

I got a deal on the coffee-press tool many moons ago, and found it worked really well - I think better than the jaw/scissor-type? And, the factory tie-rod tools are the coffee-press design, not scissors. The Klann shown above appears nearly identical to the factory tool except it doesn't have a separate piece that threads onto the end of the tapered joint, it presses against the locknut instead.

(and how come you didn't remove the wheel?)

I think that was only for a photo, and I wasn't actually removing the tie rod end at the time. Just wanted to show how it worked on the car. That pic was taken 15 years ago on my 300D!

Here is a pic of the jaw-type that my shop used on my tie-rod end a few years ago ---- looks like bottom access (easier) is all that is needed?

Tons of access for the tie rods, not much issue there. Drag link ends are the fun ones. Top Gear Top Tip: Don't overtighten those nuts when installing! It will make things way less fun when you need to remove them.

Here he was using the super-nice Hazet jaw-type on the drag link:

The offshore versions of these make me nervous due to the extreme forces applied. I'm always afraid they will break before the joint pops loose. I wouldn't be concerned with Klann or Hazet but I'm assuming you don't want to $hell out for tho$e.

I guess this is the difference between the generic-jaw-types and the sized-jaw-types that I am struggling with:

The Klann/Gedore KL-0165-1 set has a threaded pivot also. Nice stuff, but bulky. They are sold individually also, I believe, but still not cheap. Looks like ~$400/ea induhvidually or ~$900 for the set of four in a foam-inset case at Zoro (with 20% qpon, if applicable). Note there are different sets, the -3 set has supersize jaws, probably for trucks & stuff.

 

[gerryvz]

You want to get the Hazet item with the adjustable hinge, NOT the fixed hinge. It gives you MUCH more versatility and flexibility in use. You can get them on Amazon, FYI.

 

[Alphasud40]

The Orion tool kit looks like a copy of my Matco kit I bought a number of years ago. From the pictures it looks pretty substantial so I wouldn’t worry about it blowing apart. That kit has worked well for me. Sometimes on domestic junk they have extended threads on the tie rod ends. So much so that you can’t expand the jaws wide enough. For that stuff with cast iron knuckles a solid whack with the ball penis hammer will free them from the taper.

 

[Jlaa]

You want to get the Hazet item with the adjustable hinge, NOT the fixed hinge. It gives you MUCH more versatility and flexibility in use. You can get them on Amazon, FYI.

Alas every time I am working in @RicardoD 's garage (his cap/rotors/insulators this past weekend) I am 2000% spoiled with his fine collection of Hazet tools. Alas I have only one Hazet tool in my collection (an oil filter wrench) .... one of these days I'll get another Hazet tool....

The Orion tool kit looks like a copy of my Matco kit I bought a number of years ago. From the pictures it looks pretty substantial so I wouldn’t worry about it blowing apart. That kit has worked well for me. Sometimes on domestic junk they have extended threads on the tie rod ends. So much so that you can’t expand the jaws wide enough. For that stuff with cast iron knuckles a solid whack with the ball penis hammer will free them from the taper.

Thanks for explaining that bit! Much appreciated.

 

[nocfn]

I used the Adjustable hazlet hinge type on 124 and the other on tie rods on 126. The aingle deal was used on ball joints for 126. Tie rods 124 made a large BOOM when they seperate ao be ready.

 

[500AMM]

I have an exact copy of Hazet 1779-1 and the tool I have has some fitting issues in some cases. The jaw is too narrow, but I took it apart and turned the jaw 180 deg. so it became like the other tool shown below, and it did the job.

Just a reminder - it's important to align this type of ball joint tools correctly, so it doesn't slip when loaded.


UPDATE: The tool is not attached in the direction shown on the image, it was just to illustrate the conflicting dimensions.

 

[nocfn]

A bit of green grease on the firk FORK helps too.

 

[500AMM]

A bit of green grease on the firk helps too.

I never use grease between the tool and ball joint, that stimulates the risk for the tool to slip, so this should be a dry process.

If necessary, when the tool is tightened I give a blow with the heat gun to help releasing the connection, but the ball joint itself has to be protected to avoid boiling it. This way has worked fine for me, but I'm sure it is other techniques for this.

 

[nocfn]

YMMV I was present at MB during an alignment process and they used a bit of grease too. Point was to gently guide and not tear the boot during install.

 

[500AMM]

YMMV I was present at MB during an alignment process and they used a bit of grease too. Point was to gently guide and not tear the boot during install.

Agree, on the boot it is fine, just not on the steel surfaces.

 

[M104-AMG]

FWIW, been very successful using this BMW tool (Sir Tools/USA made) to separate W124 tie-rods . . .

neil

 

[luckymike]

@Jlaa I have the tool your shop used. Has always worked great for me.

I also have the complete Klann set that gsxr showed in post #4. You are welcome to borrow it.