Mercedes Audio 30 APS Wiring Diagram?

[JC220]

Hi All,

I just purchased a good used and tested Mercedes Audio 30 APS and cannot locate any wiring diagrams for it by google searching. (Just lots of dubious links to download a manual)

Do any members have a diagram and don't mind sharing it please? Or have a link to a good diagram. To complicate matters I need to wire it into my W140's original Blaupunkt Amp and CD Changer But knowing what the pin outs on the head unit are would be a great start. I'll visit a local audio store to see if they can help me with getting plugs to fit which the HU which I will then solder in to the car.

 

[LWB250]

What year is your W140? I don’t see it in your profile.

If it has the stock Bose system this is plug and play. I assuming not since you reference a Blaupunkt amplifier?

Dan

 

[JC220]

It is a 1997 year S280. It had no stereo from MB and the Singapore dealer would have fitted a Blaupunkt HU, AMP and Stereo.

Problem is the PO had fitted a cheap nasty stereo and hacked the wiring. So I require the pin out in order to start again with a plug and soldering iron

I think it will be nigh on impossible to connect the Blaupunkt CD changer to the Becker HU. I do have a backup Blaupunkt HU that also arrived today so I may consider fitting it instead so as the CD Changer functions in the car. The APS 30 could go in another car of mine

 

[JC220]

So I am going to use the Becker / Mercedes Audio 30 APS. I will buy a NAV Antenna and install it at a later date. For not it will do without. It will not be possible to hook up the Blaupunkt CD Changer to the Becker as the plug on it is very unique indeed and I cannot find any source to fit it. The small round plug with various pins is the Blaupunkt plug which should go into the HU. The only option might be to get a top plug for the Becker HU and spice the wires onto it but then where do I start in terms of matching them up.........



For the second issue it was finding a way to connect the 4x RCA sound cables which are in this car headed to the factory Amp in the trunk. I did find a adaptor harness for that which will plug into the Becker and then into the RCA AMP leads directly. Pictured below:



I did also find that generic ISO stereo pin outs for the Audio 10 model etc are the same on this Audio 3O APS so that bit is plug and play in the car. So I think this is figured out for now bar the CD changer wiring which may never work properly with most HU's.... may just pull it after all. Or what CD Changer will plug into this APS 30 does anyone know?

 

[JC220]

That weird Blaupunkt CH canger plug is a 13 Pin Din connector. Now if I can figure out if that can be wired onto a plug suitable for the Becker HU :?

 

[LWB250]

Check to see if the outputs on the Blaupunkt are high or low level. While I’m only familiar with the factory Bose system, I say this because the Bose system must have high level inputs to drive it adequately.

Dan

 

[darek_u]

Your CD changer is most probably one of the old CDC Balupunkt changers (05 or 08). They don't have fiber optic connection which makes things easier. I highly doubt you will be able to marry Blaupunkt and Becker together but you may try. See below pinouts, it is all in Polish but pretty much self explanatory. Changer pinout shows the plug (cable), not the socket in the changer itself. If you need any help with translation - just let me know.

 

[JC220]

Thank you for the diagram! Going by the pin outs available (or lack thereof) on my APS 30 HU on that top row I do not think it will work properly.

The Blaupunkt Amp does work correctly still on its own. I think I am going to remove the CD Changer and keep it in storage anyway + tuck the wire harness ends out of the way to allow future use if needed. The APS 30 HU looks soooo much nicer I'm the car VS the cheapie clarion unit I think this is a fair trade off. Besides the APS 30 has a CD player anyway.

I did notice when plugged into the car the APS 30 power light / On button stays illuminated even when I pull the key. Not sure If this is normal or not.... it does certainly recognise when the ignition is turned off.

Maybe the on button times out after a while I'll try later. Wouldn't want to run the battery down

 

[LWB250]

I did notice when plugged into the car the APS 30 power light / On button stays illuminated even when I pull the key. Not sure If this is normal or not.... it does certainly recognise when the ignition is turned off.

Maybe the on button times out after a while I'll try later. Wouldn't want to run the battery down

There are two versions of this radio - one that has CANBUS (2000-later) and one that doesn’t (1999-earlier). The difference is that the later CANBUS versions require a signal for power on/power off functions.

Can you turn the radio on and off with the button without issue? It sounds like you can.

Dan

 

[JC220]

There are two versions of this radio - one that has CANBUS (2000-later) and one that doesn’t (1999-earlier). The difference is that the later CANBUS versions require a signal for power on/power off functions.

Can you turn the radio on and off with the button without issue? It sounds like you can.

Yes I can turn it on and off AOK and it does respond to ignition key but it's the residual illumination of the power button that I think is odd. I will try again later tonight by getting out of the car and waiting to see if the lamp goes off. I do also want to verify + test the power plug wiring from the car

 

[JC220]

If I do have a Can Bus version HU does that mean it is a no go for regular stereo wiring Dan? Or can I use an adaptor / relay of some sort?

 

[JC220]

 

[LWB250]

If I do have a Can Bus version HU does that mean it is a no go for regular stereo wiring Dan? Or can I use an adaptor / relay of some sort?

Wow. I just looked closely at your radio and it appears to be a European version I’m not familiar with. The Audio 30 versions sold here in the US are physically different, and I can’t find anything on a BE 4715 model here.

That being said, if it was a CANBUS radio you wouldn’t be able to control the power, that is, you wouldn’t be able to turn it on and off via the knob, as it needs a signal on the data bus to tell it the car is powered up. With that in mind, if your radio is powering on and off with the knob, you should be fine.

Sorry for any confusion.

Not sure what to tell you about the power light. Might want to drop Eddie or Tom at Becker Autosound a note via email and ask them if it’s an issue. Be sure to tell them it’s a BE 4715, as that’s the ID they’ll work off of.

Dan

 

[JC220]

Wow. I just looked closely at your radio and it appears to be a European version I’m not familiar with. The Audio 30 versions sold here in the US are physically different, and I can’t find anything on a BE 4715 model here.

That being said, if it was a CANBUS radio you wouldn’t be able to control the power, that is, you wouldn’t be able to turn it on and off via the knob, as it needs a signal on the data bus to tell it the car is powered up. With that in mind, if your radio is powering on and off with the knob, you should be fine.

Sorry for any confusion.

Not sure what to tell you about the power light. Might want to drop Eddie or Tom at Becker Autosound a note via email and ask them if it’s an issue. Be sure to tell them it’s a BE 4715, as that’s the ID they’ll work off of.

Dan

Great info Thankyou. I will do a video on it later showing how it is working.

And yes I cannot locate an my wiring diagrams specific to this HU at all. I am adapting Audio 10 diagrams at the moment and it seems to work OK at that

 

[LWB250]

Great info Thankyou. I will do a video on it later showing how it is working.

And yes I cannot locate an my wiring diagrams specific to this HU at all. I am adapting Audio 10 diagrams at the moment and it seems to work OK at that

The pinout of the connectors on the Becker are industry standard ISO configuration. The only connector that might be weird is the top one that’s used for the CD changer to the best of my knowledge.

Dan

 

[Rouven036]

Just use a standard ISO plug layout for the power supply. The CD changer works ONLY with d2b (fiber wire) the upper 10 pin plug includes the later model CAN wires (2 and only optional) the wake up line for the d2b. That's it.
Socket block A: first 8 pin connector
Pin (number is on the socket)
1: wheel speed signal
2: diagnose line
3: telephone mute (if ground applied here sound goes mute)
4: permanent plus terminal 30
5: automatic antenna power supply output
6: light input (terminal 58)
7: switched plus terminal 15
8: ground

Socket block B, the middle one,
Pin speakers
1: rear right +
2: rear right -
3: front right +
4: front right -
5: front left +
6: front left -
7: rear left +
8: rear left -

Socket block C, 10 Pin:
1: CAN high
2: CAN low
3: reverse light
4: d2b wake up
5: CD Player power output
6: CD Player ground
7 to 10: not used

With the diagnose line the aps30 can be configured in terms of equalizer settings etc.

 

[JC220]

Thanks for the replies and I have checked the wiring to Plug A and confirmed it is working correctly. This is a photo of the plug to show what wires are currently hooked up. The plug B / Sound out will have the new RCA adaptor lead arrive tomorrow and that will allow the male RCA amp leads to hook up again.



When I plug the stereo into the car it asks for the code. I enter that number and hit “On” which turns it off. Then when I turn it on again it does not ask for a code.

So if I have the HU turned off and turn the ignition key on it stays off unless I hit the power button on the HU. If I then turn the ignition key off the HU does go off also which is good. And it does remember the power state last set with the ignition key on and follows that pattern. AKA if it was last on when the key was on then it will automatically come back on itself when the key is turned on again.

Now here is the biggest problem still. See the picture below for how the “ON” button stays illuminated all the time. That is if you have the ignition key out and even the doors lock for 30 minutes plus this always stays lit which will quickly kill the battery so I have to unplug the HU again.



Just found this link:

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/satnav-option-advice-sought.6747/

BE4715: Becker/Mercedes OEM Audio-30 APS with CAN-Bus: DIN size; NavTech maps.

So CAN BUS must be the issue then with the power lamp not turning off? It is not suitable for my W140 in that case and I may need to return it and find another unit

 

[JC220]

OK I have thought about this and concluded either the Stereo is faulty or more likely; it is requiring a CAN signal to fully shut down. So I have opted to return it for a refund. I will seek out another non CAN model Becker and report back in due course. Thanks to everyone who contributed here I appreciate it

 

[LWB250]

OK I have thought about this and concluded either the Stereo is faulty or more likely; it is requiring a CAN signal to fully shut down. So I have opted to return it for a refund. I will seek out another non CAN model Becker and report back in due course. Thanks to everyone who contributed here I appreciate it

The US domestic models of the Audio 30 APS don't have a lot of the features the Euro versions do, such as navigation and RTS or whatever it's called. As for your power light, I have to suspect it's a CANBUS issue as your radio is a CANBUS version. I don't know details about this model, but I know the closest equivalent in the States can't be used in a non-CANBUS application. It simply won't work. This I know from direct experience....

Hang on to your adapter harness(es), as they'll still work with any Becker you get with ISO connectors.

Dan

 

[Rouven036]

Usually the on button goes of when the unit is off. The can version will work fine with the non CAN setup. I would suggest that some of the settings are off or the unit is faulty.

 

[JC220]

I bought a Becker BE 4705 which is the early non Can Bus version of the APS 30. The sale also included the original owners manual and genuine Nav CD. So it will be here late next week and should be plug and play this time. The S280 is back together and running perfect today so it will be a finishing touch to install a proper head unit and bin the cheapie that is so out of place in there!

 

[JC220]

Thanks to all for their input on this thread. It can now be closed off. Long story short I ordered a decent looking BE 4705 on fleabay for £200 which was supposed to include the Nav CD etc. Well what turned up was a BE 4715 in terrible cosmetic condition (very bad damage) so I had to return it too. Feeling somewhat deflated in this saga I took a chance on a mere £15 BE 4705 on flebay with little expectations. It turned up - the correct model this time. I cleaned it up, paid for the code to be generated on a uk website here, tested it and cleaned it up.



I have a new volume control knob ordered for it but other than that is A1. Everything works on it. The power button works properly / goes out this time too. Sound quality is very, very impressive in particular coupled with the Blaupunkt trunk AMP. But over anything else I'm pleased to be able to remove and bin that terrible, TERRIBLE Clarion HU that came in the car

 

[a777fan]

In for a pic of the hideous clarion!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JC220]

In for a pic of the hideous clarion!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sure – here it is!



Notice how perfect a fit it was for the w140 chassis in that every time you put the car in park you hit your knuckles off the Tonka toy sized volume knob. And it was in constant “Demo” mode so was lit up like a hyperventilating Christmas tree at all times.

Let the bidding wars begin

 

[JC220]

I would like to buy a manual for this stereo. If any members happen to have one spare, english version with this type of APS 30 stero content please PM me

 

[a777fan]

Sure – here it is!

View attachment 77782

Notice how perfect a fit it was for the w140 chassis in that every time you put the car in park you hit your knuckles off the Tonka toy sized volume knob. And it was in constant “Demo” mode so was lit up like a hyperventilating Christmas tree at all times.

Let the bidding wars begin

Love it Joe! [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jlaa]

Check to see if the outputs on the Blaupunkt are high or low level. While I’m only familiar with the factory Bose system, I say this because the Bose system must have high level inputs to drive it adequately.

Dan

Hi Dan @LWB250, what does this comment mean with respect to "it"?

I ask because I have a w210 which had a Bose system. It currently has an aftermarket Alpine head unit and drive an Alpine PowerPack amplifier that is taking speaker-level inputs.

I am considering re-installing the Audio 30 (which the previous owner left me) into the car and I forsee the following challenges:

• Will the Audio 30 spit out speaker level inputs and work with the Alpine 4x45W Powerpack amplifier (so that I don't have to re-install the Bose amp and go find connectors for it which were cut off)
• Will I be able to find out where the 2 CANBUS Hi/Lo wires are which must have been cut somewhere behind the dashboard to use with the Audio 30 to allow the unit to turn on/off?
• Will I be able to diagnose why the current Alpine HU is not dimming when the headlights are turned on? (hoping this will be easy - not connected illumination wire)

Thanks!

FWIW @maw1124 advises me to keep the Alpine Power Pack amp as it is a well regarded piece of kit. I don't know anything about modern Alpine equipment but I'm all for keeping it (as long as I clean up the gross wiring done by some previous audio installation shop and connectorize everything)...

 

[maw1124]

I think the power pack works well with alpine head units. If you're going back to the factory head unit, then the factory amp is probably better paired. Aftermarket amps with factory head units tend to expose the head units for poor sound quality, which the factory amp is probably masking. I would not amplify a factory head unit, unless you do it the way you did your 500 (a DSP amp to clean up the sound).

For where you are, I would simply re-wire the alpine stuff to your satisfaction. I think that's the best outcome for effort here. Next best is probably having Becker add BT to the factory stuff (and test to make sure they work, etc), then reinstall that. Writing those two options shows why I would go the first way.

maw