• Hi Guest !

    Welcome to the 500Eboard forum.

    Since its founding in late 2008, 500Eboard has become the leading resource on the Internet for all things related to the Mercedes-Benz 500E and E500. In recent years, we have also expanded to include the 400E and E420 models, which are directly related to the 500E/E500.

    We invite you to browse and take advantage of the information and resources here on the site. If you find helpful information, please register for full membership, and you'll find even more resources available. Feel free to ask questions, and make liberal use of the "Search" function to find answers.

    We hope you will become an active contributor to the community!

    Sincerely,
    500Eboard Management

Need Mechanic Bay Area (San Francisco)

kre8tive202

E500E Enthusiast
Member
Hello all,

I am in need of a reputable mechanic that can diagnose a 500E versus throwing parts at the car hoping to fix my problem.

Problem: A few weeks ago (3 weeks) I started up my 1992 500E from being stored in my garage, the battery was far gone so i bought new one, it started, I went o get gas an after getting gas, it wouldn't start up. After about 8 to 10 minutes of starting it and pumping the gas it finally started, but as it was cranking there was a popping noise coming out of the tail pipe. After it started up, it now has a rough idle and is running rich. I had not changed out the caps, distributer, insulator, plugs and wires but it didnt work. The car runs much better in terms of it seems to have more horsepower but when it sits at a light idling is is shaking and idling rough.

I am looking for a mechanic in the Bay Area, I live in Union City, CA. I know about Robert Fenton @ European Car Service but yelp reports the shop is permanently closed. Does anyone have any recommendations.
 
Hello all,

I am in need of a reputable mechanic that can diagnose a 500E versus throwing parts at the car hoping to fix my problem.
Problem: A few weeks ago (3 weeks) I started up my 1992 500E from being stored in my garage, the battery was far gone so i bought new one, it started, I went o get gas an after getting gas, it wouldnt start up. After about 8 to 10 minutes of starting it and pumping the gas it finally started, but as it was cranking there was a popping noise coming out of the tail pipe. After it started up, it now has a rough idle and is running rich. I had not changed out the caps, distributer, insulator, plugs and wires but it didnt work. The car runs much better in terms of it seems to have more horsepower but when it sits at a light idling is is shaking and idling rough.

I am looking for a mechanic in the Bay Area, I live in Union City, CA. I know about Robert Fenton @ European Car Service but yelp reports the shop is permanently closed. Does anyone have any recommendations.
If you are looking SPECIFICALLY for mechanics who would have been working on these 124s at the dealership when they were younger, then these kinds of folks are getting harder to harder to find. They are aging out. 😐 There are a myriad of well regarded MB shops up and down the peninsula, but not that many have mechanics who were actually wrenching 35+ years ago at the dealership. I know of two who I would use (but I do not have any experience myself with these two) The following two individuals own the establishment they work at:

 
Last edited:
If you are looking SPECIFICALLY for mechanics who would have been working on these 124s at the dealership when they were younger, then these kinds of folks are getting harder to harder to find. They are aging out. 😐 There are a myriad of well regarded MB shops up and down the peninsula, but not that many have mechanics who were actually wrenching 35+ years ago at the dealership. I know of two who I would use (but I do not have any experience myself with these two) The following two individuals own the establishment they work at:

  • BENNY at Millbrae Motors
This sounds great. I will be giving Millbrae Motors a call tomorrow and that is on my way to work. Thank you
 
I was able to make an appt online via website to bring my car this Thursday. Hopefully Benny will be the one to work on it.
Hello all,

I am in need of a reputable mechanic that can diagnose a 500E versus throwing parts at the car hoping to fix my problem.
Problem: A few weeks ago (3 weeks) I started up my 1992 500E from being stored in my garage, the battery was far gone so i bought new one, it started, I went o get gas an after getting gas, it wouldnt start up. After about 8 to 10 minutes of starting it and pumping the gas it finally started, but as it was cranking there was a popping noise coming out of the tail pipe. After it started up, it now has a rough idle and is running rich. I had not changed out the caps, distributer, insulator, plugs and wires but it didnt work. The car runs much better in terms of it seems to have more horsepower but when it sits at a light idling is is shaking and idling rough.

I am looking for a mechanic in the Bay Area, I live in Union City, CA. I know about Robert Fenton @ European Car Service but yelp reports the shop is permanently closed. Does anyone have any recommendations.
BTW just for shits and grins, how old is your neutral safety switch and have you connected an SDS to your car and determined if the car registers the correct transmission gear being selected by the gear lever?
 
...as it was cranking there was a popping noise coming out of the tail pipe. After it started up, it now has a rough idle and is running rich. I had not changed out the caps, distributer, insulator, plugs and wires but it didnt work. The car runs much better in terms of it seems to have more horsepower but when it sits at a light idling is is shaking and idling rough.
This sounds a LOT like secondary ignition issues (misfiring, i.e. firing the wrong cylinder at the wrong time). Could also be a defective new cap/rotor, or possibly a failing crank sensor.

Please let us know what the final diagnosis & fix is!

:klink:
 
This sounds a LOT like secondary ignition issues (misfiring, i.e. firing the wrong cylinder at the wrong time). Could also be a defective new cap/rotor, or possibly a failing crank sensor.

Please let us know what the final diagnosis & fix is!
I have a feeling this is the crank position sensor, I am going to hold off sending it o Benny until I can change this myself.
 
Hello all,
Well I brought my 500E to Benny over at Millbrae Motors. He diagnosed it as having a mechanical misfire and said it would be better to rebuild the motor. I am not giving up quite yet, so I would like to get a second opinion. Does anyone have any other recommendations to whom to bring my 500E to for a diagnostic. I am not opposed to having my car shipped within means of course. I live in Union City. Thanks again.
 
Hello all,
Well I brought my 500E to Benny over at Millbrae Motors. He diagnosed it as having a mechanical misfire and said it would be better to rebuild the motor. I am not giving up quite yet, so I would like to get a second opinion. Does anyone have any other recommendations to whom to bring my 500E to for a diagnostic. I am not opposed to having my car shipped within means of course. I live in Union City. Thanks again.
Circle Star Motors (Max Eder) in Santa Cruz. OUR TEAM — Circle Star Motors
 
Let me get this straight. His only suggestion is to rebuild the motor and nothing else to trouble shoot the misfire. Yeah…I wouldn’t take my car there to change a lightbulb.
I'm not sure that's what the mechanic said. @kre8tive202 said "[Benny] diagnosed it was having a mechanical misfire...."
I don't know how much effort Benny put into the diagnosis, but hope everything turn out good for @kre8tive202!!
 
Hello all,
Well I brought my 500E to Benny over at Millbrae Motors. He diagnosed it as having a mechanical misfire and said it would be better to rebuild the motor.
I've never heard of a "mechanical misfire". I don't know what he's trying to say, unless it has 1 cylinder (or more) with very poor compression. What exactly did he do to diagnose it, and was a compressor and/or leakdown test performed?


I am not giving up quite yet, so I would like to get a second opinion. Does anyone have any other recommendations to whom to bring my 500E to for a diagnostic. I am not opposed to having my car shipped within means of course. I live in Union City. Thanks again.
Definitely get a 2nd and 3rd opinion. M119's almost never, ever need a rebuild. Most go to their grave with the engine never having been opened further than needed for chain rail replacemant.

:scratchchin:
 
Ok, maybe I was too quick to judge, let’s see what kind of diagnosis/test was performed, or at least tests suggested prior to a rebuilt. If none were done or offered and he only gave his opinion, Benny just lost some serious credibility. I hope I’m wrong.
 
Last edited:
So I am not a mechanic but I can do basic r/r. He said he did a compression test on the cylinders and that was within acceptable measurements. He said that one of my valves were leaking? Not sure if that is his exact terminology. i told him that after 2500 rpms the engine ran fine and he said that is because he said at that rpm, the valves are floating already. i will be picking up my car in 30 mins, I will share the diagnosis. stay tuned.
 
So I am not a mechanic but I can do basic r/r. He said he did a compression test on the cylinders and that was within acceptable measurements. He said that one of my valves were leaking? Not sure if that is his exact terminology. i told him that after 2500 rpms the engine ran fine and he said that is because he said at that rpm, the valves are floating already. i will be picking up my car in 30 mins, I will share the diagnosis. stay tuned.
That sounds weird. I look forward to what he says to you in person …. Hopefully he is able to clarify bc valve float @ 2500 and an ok compression test seems implausible. Note that English is not his first language. Good luck.
 
If compression tested OK, that means the valves aren't leaking significantly enough to cause a "misfire". Next logical step would be a leakdown test, but I have a feeling this could be chasing wild geese. I'm curious what the rest of the story is when you pick up the car.

:scratchchin:
 
@kre8tive202, I highly recommend you give Max at Circle Star Motors a call. They did a top end rebuild on my 92 500E. They do fantstic work, and will document everything they do to your car. Nick who is Max's right hand man is a stickler on details, Give them a call, you cannot go wrong with using them.
 
Hi guys,
Here is the diagnostic that I got from Benny. Thoughts?
 

Attachments

  • 249205CF-407C-48BE-A2FB-8BCF6F3FFE27.jpeg
    249205CF-407C-48BE-A2FB-8BCF6F3FFE27.jpeg
    850.1 KB · Views: 23
Get a second opinion.

I'm curious what an "intake pressure test" is... could be a smoke test checking for intake leaks? If it were me, I'd pull valve covers and check cam timing next; and a leakdown test to verify if there's excessive leakage past valve seats. So far I'm not seeing *anything* that incriminates the valves, or heads needing a valve job. And definitely nothing to indicate an engine rebuild would be needed.
 
Relative compression means the technician used an oscilloscope with an amp clamp on the starter B+ wire. It’s a quick and easy method to determine “relative” health of the engine. However this is not as accurate if you are trying to measure cylinder leak down by removing all spark plugs and bringing each cylinder up to TDC and pressure testing for losses. Not being there to witness what the tech experienced it seems as if from his experience the rough running is being caused by excessive leak down in a cylinder. But not enough to show on a relative compression test. Valve sealing issues will cause rough running at low engine speeds which will smooth out with a RPM increase. Yes get a second opinion and ask for a cylinder leak down test. If they all come back with less than 10 percent your problem lies elsewhere.
 
Call Max & Nick and Circle Star and tell them Ricardo and Russell sent you. They will take the time to patiently tell you their diagnosis in clear language.
 
Back
Top