• Hi Guest !

    Welcome to the 500Eboard forum.

    Since its founding in late 2008, 500Eboard has become the leading resource on the Internet for all things related to the Mercedes-Benz 500E and E500. In recent years, we have also expanded to include the 400E and E420 models, which are directly related to the 500E/E500.

    We invite you to browse and take advantage of the information and resources here on the site. If you find helpful information, please register for full membership, and you'll find even more resources available. Feel free to ask questions, and make liberal use of the "Search" function to find answers.

    We hope you will become an active contributor to the community!

    Sincerely,
    500Eboard Management

No electric power with new battery - 1998 SLK230

ALL500

E500E Guru
Member
Not 500E related, but the Mercedes troubleshooting expertise seems to exist solely on this forum.

On a 1998 SLK230, after installing a new (fully charged) battery and a new (non OEM) voltage regulator on the alternator, the car has zero electric power, no lights, radio, nothing. I have cleaned and scrubbed the battery wires. Also, no broken fuses in any of the three boxes. Jump start does nothing. Any ideas?
 
If the battery cables were badly corroded, there could easily be corrosion inside the wires as well. I have seen bad battery cables do that.
 
What do you mean by internal lights? If the dome, then yes. If the instrument cluster warning lights, I'm not so sure.
 
If the battery cables were badly corroded, there could easily be corrosion inside the wires as well. I have seen bad battery cables do that.
I'm thinking about that. The cables look fine, but I have not removed them and cut them open to inspect. They have always lasted through hooking and unhooking and various contortions. Odd if they may have failed right at this point when I did the other work. If I leave the negative cable unhooked for over 30 min, I get a small spark when I re-attach the cable to the battery. But no further spark if I repeat that immediately again.
 
You have to go back to what you changed as the starting point for diagnosis. Any time something happens after a part or parts are changed, then that is the logical point to start at in terms of diagnosis. That would be the battery, and the voltage regulator.

#1 step -- is the battery fully charged? Is its health good (as measured by a battery tester?)

#2 step -- did you start and drive the car after you installed the voltage regulator?

#3 step -- can you confirm that the alternator/regulator are properly charging the battery??
 
You have to go back to what you changed as the starting point for diagnosis. Any time something happens after a part or parts are changed, then that is the logical point to start at in terms of diagnosis. That would be the battery, and the voltage regulator.

#1 step -- is the battery fully charged? Is its health good (as measured by a battery tester?)

#2 step -- did you start and drive the car after you installed the voltage regulator?

#3 step -- can you confirm that the alternator/regulator are properly charging the battery??
Battery is fully charged and tested (multiple good batteries were tried), though I can't yet start or drive the car as there is zero electricity, not even manual dome light function. The original Bosch voltage regulator says 14v and the replacement says 12v but apparently is the correct replacement.
 

Attachments

  • 1 Screen Shot 2024-02-12 at 1.56.33 PM.png
    1 Screen Shot 2024-02-12 at 1.56.33 PM.png
    399.3 KB · Views: 7
  • 1 Screen Shot 2024-02-12 at 2.01.20 PM.png
    1 Screen Shot 2024-02-12 at 2.01.20 PM.png
    414.3 KB · Views: 7
  • 1 Screen Shot 2024-02-12 at 2.01.42 PM.png
    1 Screen Shot 2024-02-12 at 2.01.42 PM.png
    55.8 KB · Views: 7
If the battery is good, then no power is getting to the main power distribution. Simple as that. The voltage regulator won't have anything to do with it. You either have a bad battery, bad cables, or bad connection at the battery, chassis grounds, or main power distribution.
 
If the battery is good, then no power is getting to the main power distribution. Simple as that. The voltage regulator won't have anything to do with it. You either have a bad battery, bad cables, or bad connection at the battery, chassis grounds, or main power distribution.
K56 relay. This early model R170 has a K56 "crash" or "battery cut off" relay that causes issues. I jumped the two terminals with a heavy copper wire and electricity was immediately restored. A temporary fix is to place the single "G" wire onto the "battery" post, with the other cables and screw them all back down. Not sure anyone on this forum has an R170 SLK but I'll leave this thread up for posterity.

Thanks Gerry, luckymike, Beater400E
 

Attachments

  • 1 Screen Shot 2024-02-12 at 5.49.27 PM.png
    1 Screen Shot 2024-02-12 at 5.49.27 PM.png
    553.4 KB · Views: 11
Last edited:
Would anyone happen a guess if the original alternator with Bosch voltage regulator: (EL 14V # 1 197 311 533) might be finicky

about an eBay replacement voltage regulator: (12 Volt, A-Circuit, 14.5 Vset, 180 ohm resistor).

Power is restored to the vehicle now, but the battery light stays on, so I have not tried driving it again.
 
Would anyone happen a guess if the original alternator with Bosch voltage regulator: (EL 14V # 1 197 311 533) might be finicky about an eBay replacement voltage regulator: (12 Volt, A-Circuit, 14.5 Vset, 180 ohm resistor).
What brand VR? I'd only use Bosch, despite the current ones being made in China or Taiwan.



Power is restored to the vehicle now, but the battery light stays on, so I have not tried driving it again.
If the battery light stays on, the alternator may not be charging. What voltage do you measure at the battery with the engine running? Normal should be in the ballpark of 14.0-14.5 volts, maybe a tenth or two outside that range at most.

:klink3:
 
What brand VR? I'd only use Bosch, despite the current ones being made in China or Taiwan.




If the battery light stays on, the alternator may not be charging. What voltage do you measure at the battery with the engine running? Normal should be in the ballpark of 14.0-14.5 volts, maybe a tenth or two outside that range at most.

:klink3:
The replacement is a no name eBay regulator, box labelled as made in China. I'm not even sure if Bosch still makes replacements? I ran into that problem with the 036. I asked around some German parts shops and no one could confirm that a new name brand regulator (for $200) would not also be made in china like the $20 eBay ones. Would it matter that the Bosch regulator says 14V and the replacement is box labelled as 12V (but 14.5 Vset)? There are regulators on eBay that actually say 14V on the side of the regulator.

I'll pick up a multimeter shortly and find out what voltage I'm getting.
 
I've seen Bosch regulators [for 400E/500E] with both the 12V and 14V labeling, I don't believe it should matter significantly. All the vendors show photos with UK or India, but you'll receive a PRC/Taiwan item in the box now. This changed happened a few years ago. The Bosch/PRC regulators [for 400E/500E] are stupid cheap at $10-$15, but shipping may cost as much... not sure what options you have in the Great White North.

EDIT: The SLK230 uses a different alternator (A0091547602, rated 90A) with different regulator (A0031540606). There does not appear to be any aftermarket Bosch regulator available, only off-brand, no-name stuff that may have a short lifespan.


The regulator is available from Mercedes for $210 list / $155 at Naperville. There's a faint chance this may still be a UK/India regulator, as demand may be low for this M111-specific part, and inventory may be old stock:

Reman Bosch alternator AL0761X is $200-$250 plus core:


:peep:
 
Last edited:
K56 relay. This early model R170 has a K56 "crash" or "battery cut off" relay that causes issues. I jumped the two terminals with a heavy copper wire and electricity was immediately restored. A temporary fix is to place the single "G" wire onto the "battery" post, with the other cables and screw them all back down. Not sure anyone on this forum has an R170 SLK but I'll leave this thread up for posterity.

Thanks Gerry, luckymike, Beater400E
You figured it out before I had a chance to reply. Most newer convertibles have this type of system, which kills power in a roll over situation. Upon replacing the battery, on some vehicles you have to use the specific diagnostic software to reset this, others have like a circuit breaker type of reset. You may need to dig into the R170 technical articles to see the proper procedure for battery replacement, it should include a section on the proper reset procedure
 
I've seen Bosch regulators with both the 12V and 14V labeling, I don't believe it should matter significantly. The Bosch/PRC regulators are stupid cheap, but shipping may cost as much... not sure what options you have in the Great White North.

All the vendors show photos with UK or India, but you'll receive a PRC/Taiwan item in the box now. This changed happened a few years ago.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-voltage-regulator-1197311242

https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/0021549206-MFG14.aspx

:peep:
My memory might be exaggerating the price on a new regulator, though when I did one for the 500E, I think I was quoted something like $140CAD + tax, or similar from the dealer, enough to scare me onto eBay. I could be completely wrong, it was a few moons ago. The German autoparts shop here in Toronto, seemed rightly suspicious of where everything is manufactured these days and the new eBay regulator looks fairly low quality next to the Bosch. I wish they built em where and how they used to.

My battery is reading around 12.9V when the car is off and then that number starts dropping once I turn the car on.
 
You figured it out before I had a chance to reply. Most newer convertibles have this type of system, which kills power in a roll over situation. Upon replacing the battery, on some vehicles you have to use the specific diagnostic software to reset this, others have like a circuit breaker type of reset. You may need to dig into the R170 technical articles to see the proper procedure for battery replacement, it should include a section on the proper reset procedure
From what I can tell, this K56 relay disconnects the battery from the alternator to prevent a fire, in the event of a crash. Usually, it seems that an airbag deployment would be necessary to trigger the K56 to blow and once it's done, it can't be repaired. As the car ages, other things such as moisture, might trigger the (airbag sensor or fuse?) to send a signal to the K56 to blow, or it just goes out on it's own eventually. It's a little confusing to me right now.

The K56 was only used on the very early R170 cars (1996-mid 1998) and after that, it was replaced with a different set up, some kind of pre fuse system. The big problem with the K56 is that, if it blows, you don't know it, until your battery light goes on. You then have however long it takes before the battery gets drained and the car dies. I shudder to think of all the places I have been with this car and somehow that didn't happen.

If you place the generator wire from the G post on the K56, to the Battery post, or jump the two posts with a copper wire, it is supposed to restore all the electrics and the generator (alternator) charges the battery again. It seems like this has worked for everyone on the internet with this problem so far, except myself. Hence why I am suspecting a low quality voltage regulator as the culprit, or perhaps that is wishful thinking and the alternator it's self just died as well, or the alternator wire harness. After I replaced the voltage regulator (and connected all wires to the Battery post), electricity was restored, the battery light was off and the car worked for about 40 mins before the battery light came on again.

As for needing to reset systems after a battery change, I'm assuming that this car is no exception, though I have changed the battery or disconnected it often in the past and I've only needed to reset the radio.
 

Attachments

  • 1 Screen Shot 2024-02-15 at 10.35.09 PM.png
    1 Screen Shot 2024-02-15 at 10.35.09 PM.png
    260.5 KB · Views: 3
Last edited:
From what I can tell, this K56 relay disconnects the battery from the alternator to prevent a fire, in the event of a crash. Usually, it seems that an airbag deployment would be necessary to trigger the K56 to blow and once it's done, it can't be repaired. As the car ages, other things such as moisture, might trigger the (airbag sensor or fuse?) to send a signal to the K56 to blow, or it just goes out on it's own eventually. It's a little confusing to me right now.

The K56 was only used on the very early R170 cars (1996-mid 1998) and after that, it was replaced with a different set up, some kind of pre fuse system. The big problem with the K56 is that, if it blows, you don't know it, until your battery light goes on. You then have however long it takes before the battery gets drained and the car dies. I shudder to think of all the places I have been with this car and somehow that didn't happen.

If you place the generator wire from the G post on the K56, to the Battery post, or jump the two posts with a copper wire, it is supposed to restore all the electrics and the generator (alternator) charges the battery again. It seems like this has worked for everyone on the internet with this problem so far, except myself. Hence why I am suspecting a low quality voltage regulator as the culprit, or perhaps that is wishful thinking and the alternator it's self just died as well, or the alternator wire harness. After I replaced the voltage regulator (and connected all wires to the Battery post), electricity was restored, the battery light was off and the car worked for about 40 mins before the battery light came on again.

As for needing to reset systems after a battery change, I'm assuming that this car is no exception, though I have changed the battery or disconnected it often in the past and I've only needed to reset the radio.
Actually, if it trips, it cuts out the battery. Hard to say what will likely happen if the car is running, but if you shut it off, it won't start again.

I know mine is part of the CANBUS system and an airbag deployment will signal several computers in the vehicle to shut off the engine, kill the fuel pump etc. The electrical connection to the 12 V vehicle battery is pyrotechnically disconnected in an accident with airbag deployment as well. So its not a relay that can be flipped back on, the entire module needs to be replaced.

I did some cursory research on it after I found it. Mine is on the drivers side battery
 

Attachments

  • batteries.jpg
    batteries.jpg
    610 KB · Views: 4
My memory might be exaggerating the price on a new regulator, though when I did one for the 500E, I think I was quoted something like $140CAD + tax, or similar from the dealer, enough to scare me onto eBay. I could be completely wrong, it was a few moons ago.
The dealer regulator for 400E/500E is silly priced, and will be a China/PRC/Taiwan unit - same thing you can buy aftermarket for <$15 USD. @LWB250 discovered this a few years back. Might as well get the aftermarket one for $15. However, another forum member (@emerydc8 ?) found the PRC regulator died within a year or two?


The German autoparts shop here in Toronto, seemed rightly suspicious of where everything is manufactured these days and the new eBay regulator looks fairly low quality next to the Bosch. I wish they built em where and how they used to.
Previous post edited - your SLK uses a totally different alternator/regulator. Options are a junk aftermarket regulator (which you already have) or a Bosch reman alternator, which would be the better solution IMO.



My battery is reading around 12.9V when the car is off and then that number starts dropping once I turn the car on.
The alternator is not charging. However, make sure there's not some other wiring weirdness going on, or an issue with K56. Don't want to install a new Bosch alternator and then discover K56 was the problem!

:klink:
 

Who has viewed this thread (Total: 1) View details

Who has watched this thread (Total: 1) View details

Back
Top