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Not yet, but I hope to put it on the butt dyno soon and then run thru the SDS system after the fact. I have AC in the shop but I want to get to walk in cooler status before I hook up the diagnostics. "crossing fingers". Have to navigate the home-front, and while the thought of just getting a new AMG 2 door beast is possible, I like my old cars.
 
I like my old cars too. Sometimes not as much when they're giving me trouble, but I always seem to get it worked out. A good reason to have more than one old car. Keep us updated on whether you got it fixed.
 
I was hoping to retro my w126 by now with r134 condenser but instead I am herding124 kittens. Got the bosch guy and he cleans the injectors amd uses new filters pintle caps on the O rings for 15 Bucks each.

What is the removal procedure?
 
What is the removal procedure?
I showed injector removal and installation in my 2020 Top-End Refresh thread. Along with pintle and filter replacement on the injectors.

Note that the intake manifold design on late 1993 and 1994 cars is different from 1992 and most 1993 cars, and doesn’t require an extra o-ring that the earlier cars require.
 
OK GVZ thanks, I have that thread saved. Local shop replaces all consumables then cleans and tests for a pretty good price, next business day.
 
Note that the intake manifold design on late 1993 and 1994 cars is different from 1992 and most 1993 cars, and doesn’t require an extra o-ring that the earlier cars require.
According to the EPC, this change occurred after engine #8409, which is roughly late 1993 calendar year production, or mid-1994 USA model year. I don't know if the EPC break point is accurate - it's been wrong more than once. :rolleyes:

Early engines have a plastic/nylon (?) bushing p/n 119-070-03-55 (photo below) that inserts into a large hole in the intake manifold, and the injector inserts into the bushing. Later engines deleted this bushing and have a smaller hole, and the injector inserts directly into the aluminium manifold. The bushing should not need replacement unless broken, if it comes out of the manifold, clean the bores and re-install.

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I have dropped them off at the shop. Gave him the specs and let them know regardless of what he thinks they should look like based on engine breaks, I showed him one that was still in possession of pintle cap and the o-rings and they should all look the same.

this one came out perfect from cyl #1
 

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The plastic pintle cap retains the lower O-ring. If that didn't come out on some injectors, the O-ring might be in the manifold (or the nylon bushing thing)?
 
I do not have the nylon bushing things. I plugged holes and macgyvered a vacuum tool and went all around the intake, I got some plastic bits most likely pintle caps parts. So I will do the process again but I am confident that the intake will clean of detritus - some of the injectors came off so easy as they did not have O rings, the just crumbled when I pulled up the fuel rail yet they had capsl.:D
 
134,900

Had the fuel injectors cleaned and rebuilt. Most were missing pintle caps, some had missing O-rings. The bosch team said almost all of them were obstructed with internal Filter failures. Test drives- short trips at temp and highway proved smooth power and down shift experience. I hope to get her running alot over the next few days baring our little hurricane.

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134,900

Well I have concluded that the live data was intermittently showing spike in voltage to cyl 3. I had just installed MB plugs and replaced the plug in question. The issue has not presented with either the new BERU wires (or the old one for that matter). So after several drives, I really just think that all of my live data is perfect, even accelerating to 3,000 RPMS in the shop (yes at temp only) and my scoped miss is no longer there. I reset everything electronically, replaced everything but the driver of the vehicle and consider this chapter closed. I also used 3 EZL in the process and determined they all are in sound working order. I changed out the original rotor bracket that was not flat when checked for surface level since it was really beat up after the rotor failure. It may not have been the panacea, but it was replaced out of principle. Next up is to determine if my oil is ready to be changed based on miles.....
 
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Louis, what brand was the defective OE MB plug? Bosch/Germany or Beru/France?

:klink:
 
E500. 125,192

Replaced to upper trunk stops and made sure that the contact was minimal.

Also I replaced the S29 switch on the accelerator. I had the code a few times during my issues and it alwayes always cleared. The weather was cool enough here that I was inspired to contort myself to do the job. So the original awitch switch was replaced.

(correcting tiny mobile keyboard spelling errors)
 
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E500

135,887

Today I went back to my fabricator who welded in my X pipe to the Flieben stem to stern cat delete system. Since we had a lot happening in that test pipe, we wanted to retain the X pipe and decided to cut the 200 cell bullet cat down from the 2.25 pipe to the 3" portion just outside the honeycomb. So we installed it in the 3" diameter resonator delete pipe just shy (north) of the axle where the jig began the flat spot for the axle. My issue was the loudness on kickdown making the car sound like drifter with bald tires @ 4000 rpm but only moving 10mph. HA no offense but the acceleration note is now acceptable and if I need to add another, there is plenty of room forward of the cat delete pipes. Quite pleased with the changes.

Finally ending the saga of a rotor failure and all the drama of wasted cats and removal/replacement and chasing down ignition issues, bad MAF - replaced that, plugs, wires, rotors, caps, cam sensor, EZL, coils, vac lines, EGR gasket, throttle pedal switch, have the Crank sensor but not installed it. So officially complete....until the next time. :)
 
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post 916 should reflect 135,192 Miles Sorry about the fat fingers (actually my surface keyboard needed replacing)
 
E500

136,210

Today I dropped off the E500 at my local indy shop. Since I was last there in 2017 for transmission rebuild, they became a full authorized MB service shop, complete with all MB service tools and diagnostic equipment licensed from MB. Complete with HHT for the E car and everything else for the rest of the fleet. I am glad, I am a small biz owner and have been supporting them since 2010. They have since taken over the entire building and their 16 bays are full with MB Audi and BMW of various ages. The E500 was a show stopper as a few of the guys are just 30, and the car is older than them and that was pretty fun. So I EXPECT TO GET THE CAR BACK if not tonight, lunch time on the 9th. They will replace both the Front LCA with my NLA units from parts stash, clean up the originals for my refurbishment on the DS Boot and perform front alignment.

Same two guys there when I found them just after they opened back in 2010, so it was nice to see them.


:update:

Just back from the shop with the E500. Did not know how bad things were until new units were installed. Things are subtle but just better. The OE units have both boots obliterated. The good news... Both joints are solid and will get new boot treatments. On the fence about new bushings but if we are going to clean them, repaint, grease with new boots then perhaps the bushings get done as well. The parts will follow the car at some point but for the right price ( I could be swayed to sell them )

Here is a bonus, the shop put a total of 1.7 miles on the car which is about right. The alignment shop is 3 blocks away and the test drive loop they take is about 1.4 miles round trip. I have been other places with other cars that seem to have many more miles when I get it back.
 
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E500

xxx,xxx

Replaced the headlight rotary switch with new MB Unit. Since I had no spare, I bought a NAPA source with all the discounts and they sent me a MB manufactured switch for my spare. The replaced unit had no audible clicking, but did have a burn mark on the back of it. Harness showed no damage.
 
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Replaced the headlight rotary switch with new MB Unit. Since I had no spare, I bought a NAPA source with all the discounts and they sent me a MB manufactured switch for my spare. The replaced unit had no audible clicking, but did had a burn mark on the back of it. Harness showed no damage.
Did this fix the problem you were having with the lights?

:124:
 
Yes the issue has been corrected. Now the peanut light is very faint(I can live with that but the light for the vent was dangling so I have to get that out to restore that frosty bulb that works! (Both bulbs work but not very bright on the switch. It may be contraband plastic switch cover, not sure.
 
Noticed today that I am having some sagging of my headliner felt. Typical foam-backed material commonly used that due to heat, separates from the glued side to the form, and the visible material showing a sag. I suppose I should drop it all down myself and take the shell form and the slider for the sunroof in so the shop cannot break the B/C pillars. Not sure yet, just expressing a project on the way.
 
MEH back from a week away and find rough running car. Noticed my brake booster vacuum pipe was loose at the intake connection - that was a vacuum loss. Also removed caps and used some electrical cleaner on the insides, removed and reinstalled wires to caps. Removed plugs and checked for anomaly but they were good. Took a few minutes at temp but she responded well. Also added about 1.2 lbs of r134a as the compressor was not engaging. It was about 28 months since I needed to add any refrigerant. I can live with that. Replaced the seal in the service cap, no evidence of bad valve so will monitor.
 
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08/02/2025 xxxxxxxx Miles

Tired of battling the issues of ignition, even with slots and new wires rotors brackets caps coils, just no real cure for the ignition woes. Today I stripped it all off, wiped every ignition component with WD40 soaked lint free cloth including the aluminum it all connects to and reinstalled. We shall see how well / long the perfect drive lasts out of the box.
 
And back to report with multiple trips both long and short, some even 12-20 minutes between startups for 10 minutes rides, no secondary ignition issues with the components and the cam area with WD40 on anything that bolts to the ignition apparatus (insulators too)
 
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