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OWNER nocfn
- Thread starter nocfn
- Start date
https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/nocfn.7162/post-265004
Well this was a bad idea - she is leaking. So I have a new MB unit to install and play with gasoline all over the place.
Will drain oil and change it with cheap stuff, get it cleaned out and then drain/Brad Penn.
185,130
Replaced the leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator (I installed a "good yard sample" a while back and it failed.) So I removed that and installed a gen-u-whine MB unit ($326) I had in the climate controlled storage. Suctioned out all the oil from the top, the removed the valve cover and got out any gas from the crevices top side. Moved down to the filter and sucked the oil out of the housing and down into the inlet. I let the car sit for an hour like that so any gas in the engine oil system and journals of the head could evaporate. Installed new Brad Penn and a Hengst filter and started the car with the CPS removed from the ezl. After about 3 burst of 2-3 second burst, I checked the oil level and topped it off. Returned the CPS to the EZL and she started right up, no gas drips and the engine seems to be happier, especially at the tail pipe (running much better).
I will most likely put 1k on this oil change and do it again since the gas was forced into the right engine bank by design when the pressure regulator fails.
Well this was a bad idea - she is leaking. So I have a new MB unit to install and play with gasoline all over the place.
Will drain oil and change it with cheap stuff, get it cleaned out and then drain/Brad Penn.
185,130
Replaced the leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator (I installed a "good yard sample" a while back and it failed.) So I removed that and installed a gen-u-whine MB unit ($326) I had in the climate controlled storage. Suctioned out all the oil from the top, the removed the valve cover and got out any gas from the crevices top side. Moved down to the filter and sucked the oil out of the housing and down into the inlet. I let the car sit for an hour like that so any gas in the engine oil system and journals of the head could evaporate. Installed new Brad Penn and a Hengst filter and started the car with the CPS removed from the ezl. After about 3 burst of 2-3 second burst, I checked the oil level and topped it off. Returned the CPS to the EZL and she started right up, no gas drips and the engine seems to be happier, especially at the tail pipe (running much better).
I will most likely put 1k on this oil change and do it again since the gas was forced into the right engine bank by design when the pressure regulator fails.
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C126
185,220
Replaced my front shocks today that were over 10 years old, Bilstein HD. I put in a set of Bilstein B8 which are for lowered suspensions, different valving to accommodate the geometry better than the HD which were just a bit stiffer than stock. Interestingly, the kit came with only one nylon lock nut instead of two, and MB had always used two nuts. Not sure if the nylon lock nut (single use) was used then or not. So I used the new down to torque spec, used the old as a counter with barely enough blue to keep the top (used) nut from backing out.
185,220
Replaced my front shocks today that were over 10 years old, Bilstein HD. I put in a set of Bilstein B8 which are for lowered suspensions, different valving to accommodate the geometry better than the HD which were just a bit stiffer than stock. Interestingly, the kit came with only one nylon lock nut instead of two, and MB had always used two nuts. Not sure if the nylon lock nut (single use) was used then or not. So I used the new down to torque spec, used the old as a counter with barely enough blue to keep the top (used) nut from backing out.
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It is much better. The roads I frequent have a lot of undulation - almost like waves. My wife's 2019 Cabriolet has her suspension on comfort and it is barely noticeable. The SEC is a bit different... But the front end is much better, car sits up higher and now I will turn my attention to the SLS. Both struts are new in the past few years, Gerry and Me replaced one blown sphere when he still lived here, the other original equipment. I cannot discern really any fluid loss from a ruptured bladder, but it is possible that the OE unit is getting weak. I plan to adjust the ride height since the B8 have things taller relative to before, and the hydro fluid is about 4 years old (but not many miles). So more investigation needed I think. I couldn't get any aftermarket place to send a sphere to me, so the MB cost for one is the cost of 2 febi..... I did buy one from MB for now and we will see how it goes.
I put HD's on my lowered 86 560SEC last year and I like but don't love them. The OE's were probably fine with only 90k mi on them and didn't feel that bad but the car does feel more secure while ride is as good or better. But I hated the mechanism for tightening the shocks - there's a tiny notch in the top of the threaded shaft that is nowhere near strong enough to react the tightening torque required on the nuts. The w124 option w the internal Hex head would be way better.
C126
185,329
Today I fiddled with the tension on the steering gear as there was way too much friction with the rebuilt unit. It did not take much effort, just a bit fiddly without the proper tools (thanks Roy for the part numbers). Alas, the wheel returns to center by itself as my popeye forearms are not required anymore. Also, I found a chap in Long Island that makes armrest covers for W126/C126 models and my leather was getting rough. So I have a grey interior but made the armrest black to match the floor mats, center console and the dash.
Since the total cost of tool acquisition and aftermarket ball joints was more costly than buying new MB units with ball joints pressed in, I went ahead and purchased them. So that will be a project I will soon complete. Me and El Honcho replaced my front brakes, bearings and rotors when He was still in Houston. I do not even have a lip on my rotors yet (new from MB) and the akebono pads are barely worn so all of that will be maintained, just swapping in the spindles for the next project. Just prior to that, I will replace the SLS fluid at a minimum while I replace theOriginal Equipment Corteco sphere on the right side. Gerry and me replaced the left MB ruptured unit some years ago when we did the front brakes. I have one MB unit I just purchased and two Corteco units I did not have logged in my master parts list... So the 33 21 year old MB Corteco unit will say good bye and the one New Corteco unit will get installed.
185,329
Today I fiddled with the tension on the steering gear as there was way too much friction with the rebuilt unit. It did not take much effort, just a bit fiddly without the proper tools (thanks Roy for the part numbers). Alas, the wheel returns to center by itself as my popeye forearms are not required anymore. Also, I found a chap in Long Island that makes armrest covers for W126/C126 models and my leather was getting rough. So I have a grey interior but made the armrest black to match the floor mats, center console and the dash.
Since the total cost of tool acquisition and aftermarket ball joints was more costly than buying new MB units with ball joints pressed in, I went ahead and purchased them. So that will be a project I will soon complete. Me and El Honcho replaced my front brakes, bearings and rotors when He was still in Houston. I do not even have a lip on my rotors yet (new from MB) and the akebono pads are barely worn so all of that will be maintained, just swapping in the spindles for the next project. Just prior to that, I will replace the SLS fluid at a minimum while I replace the
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C126
185,329
Removed the right accumulator that I had thought it was OE. At some point prior to my ownership, the first owner had a Corteco installed. So that was the culprit, the German made part (pre EU) was installed at some point prior to 2010 and had failed. I suctioned most of the resevoir out and the bottom 1/5th was black sludge - common failure of the accumulator. Replaced with new Corteco and new fluid - tested for ride comfort and no leaks. Instant S Klasse ride restored. As a testament to the solid steel weight of the C126 Vs the W124..... The 126 was bounce bounce bounce with the bad accumulator as the 124 bounce was like a cartoon jalopy when the accumulator went in that car.
185,329
Removed the right accumulator that I had thought it was OE. At some point prior to my ownership, the first owner had a Corteco installed. So that was the culprit, the German made part (pre EU) was installed at some point prior to 2010 and had failed. I suctioned most of the resevoir out and the bottom 1/5th was black sludge - common failure of the accumulator. Replaced with new Corteco and new fluid - tested for ride comfort and no leaks. Instant S Klasse ride restored. As a testament to the solid steel weight of the C126 Vs the W124..... The 126 was bounce bounce bounce with the bad accumulator as the 124 bounce was like a cartoon jalopy when the accumulator went in that car.
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C126
185,400
Removed and replaced the steering knuckles. This was done to avoid the higher net cost and time to acquire parts, 20t press and special tool for the same procedure as complete replacements. I will need to replace the right upper control arm as the ball joint that connects the knuckle to the rest of the front sway-bar/ suspension and stability.
185,400
Removed and replaced the steering knuckles. This was done to avoid the higher net cost and time to acquire parts, 20t press and special tool for the same procedure as complete replacements. I will need to replace the right upper control arm as the ball joint that connects the knuckle to the rest of the front sway-bar/ suspension and stability.
I tried to make an edit but I could not.
I was able to replace the UCA, the bushings for the torsion bar and get her back together. Test drive was a success. I now have spares for the UCA on both sides, and new bushings for the torsion bar when needed. Replaced a freshly painted battery tray and the test drive was successful. As Gerry mentioned, this was a pretty satisfying job. With the new shocks, lower front ball joints, new control arm up front, and replaced sphere in the SLS as well, really a fine S class ride. Lots of space on the 126 to work on the engine and components which is refreshing versus the W124 E500 engine bay.
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As an update to the above thread, it has become necessary to just remove my factory cats due to malfunctioning catalyst. I will be getting a "down pipes back to straight pipes (test pipe no cats)" and will run that system until such time that I get cats/resonator (most likely cats) put on to do my part even though it is no longer a requirement at the age of the car.
As such, I do not anticipate any power gain as this is a matter of necessity not one of ... "hey listen to my green 4 door sedan aren't I cool.... "
So since my maxjax is currently in a state of needing some replacement fittings I just purchased another set of Race ramps units so that my creeper gets under both ends with room to work.
As such, I do not anticipate any power gain as this is a matter of necessity not one of ... "hey listen to my green 4 door sedan aren't I cool.... "
So since my maxjax is currently in a state of needing some replacement fittings I just purchased another set of Race ramps units so that my creeper gets under both ends with room to work.
Following up on this project. Finally have everything installed underneath, and it sounds subtle but powerful without cats and the resonator. Since my cats were going bad, and I had the rotor foul-up dumping fuel into the cats, it was just time to do the whole thing. With a lot of help from our guy GSXR, we narrowed down and kept after ignition. I had no codes, but yet still had acceleration hesitation at temp over 3000 rpm down shifting down the freeway. After a good blowout of stink of 20 miles at temp and good rpms, I got her home and just finished up on the right side cap/rotor/bracket tidiness. All fasteners got 9mm and I was sure to use thin coat of blue lock-tight only on the threads that were going into the the female bits so there wasn't any excess thread locker floating about. It seems that this is a completed project - but I want to go on one more drive to ensure that the ignition is A number 1 IGO! (in good order)
Thanks again GSXR for helping me off line with my stupid panic questions......
Thanks again GSXR for helping me off line with my stupid panic questions......
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Ooh la la!
I will go back thru my posts. I will reserve comment until I get it resolved. However, MB has shipped the OE unit, which by the way say NLA on the classic site search. When I get it, I will post the PN as it obviously superseded and I didnt see it on the order page. XPPPP was expired so I go that back operational. I can compress the two halves in my hands, but needed the vise to mate it up again.
:UPDATE:
OMG June 17, 2023 post 838 133,348 on the clock at the time. 134,135!! WTF FEBI = Faq Every But Intentionally
Despicable 787 miles
133,348
:UPDATE:
OMG June 17, 2023 post 838 133,348 on the clock at the time. 134,135!! WTF FEBI = Faq Every But Intentionally
Despicable 787 miles
133,348
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124.036
Since I completed the exhaust swap (cat obstruction, broken honeycomb) all damaged from ignition related fuel dump I have been chasing down some gremlins. This has resulted in a complete wire/coil/plug/rotor/cap change in the engine bay. Upon removing wires and connectors (bosch style) I had one cylinder that had a wire not connected fully, another that was pulled out of its fitting inside a boot. These were all Beru wires with MB logo on them, as was the coils. So not sure if they were OE ore replacements, but I had all of this on the shelf when I bought the car so it all got replaced in due course. When I first owned the car, I did many valve cover off projects, including the spark plugs gapped to Klink spec. Astonishingly, I had at least 5 of those plugs that had backed out enough to allow oil to blow out the threads. Only two required more than 15nm of force to remove. I can only conclude that I did not torque properly, or anti-seize worked too well or a combination of both. I thoroughly cleaned the head threads and want to reiterate that I did not use anti-seize this go around. Hand screwed the plugs to completion and used torque wrench to double check the spec. Beru Wires (long fellows) installed and the car is back to idle that makes me question if the car is actually running.
A secondary issue has come to pass, and it is been confounding for me and others. I purchased the SDS and was able to have multiple live data situations and they hall show that things are just as they should be. Real life says otherwise.
With a hot engine doing 2500-3000 RPM if I were to demand more fuel suddenly, the transmission kicks down perfectly and after a moment I begin to experience a coughing spell, a sputter. Somewhat like the moisture issue we all have had. After inspecting those components and switching them out and back again with new, same result. Live data sows perfect voltage, 1.27- 1.29 MS in fuel, etc nothing anywhere on the SDS live data. The GSXR and JLA have helped with the SDS acquisiton and the interpretations of it all. What we seem to come up with is that the sudden demand for more fuel at 3000 RPM "may be hampered" by old pumps and or filter. So this is plausible, and I have secured two Bosch pumps and have had the filter on the shelf in climate controlled circumstance for some time. I also have all the MB Fuel lines, hoses, connectors and strainer to completely replace everything from the tank to the hardlines coming off the fuel stack - I bought them all when I got the car.
I will report back to this thread with mileage for the complete project once I have completed the task. I have 3/4 of a tank and I dont expect to need gas for at least 3 weeks so... I'll be back with an update when there is something to update.
Since I completed the exhaust swap (cat obstruction, broken honeycomb) all damaged from ignition related fuel dump I have been chasing down some gremlins. This has resulted in a complete wire/coil/plug/rotor/cap change in the engine bay. Upon removing wires and connectors (bosch style) I had one cylinder that had a wire not connected fully, another that was pulled out of its fitting inside a boot. These were all Beru wires with MB logo on them, as was the coils. So not sure if they were OE ore replacements, but I had all of this on the shelf when I bought the car so it all got replaced in due course. When I first owned the car, I did many valve cover off projects, including the spark plugs gapped to Klink spec. Astonishingly, I had at least 5 of those plugs that had backed out enough to allow oil to blow out the threads. Only two required more than 15nm of force to remove. I can only conclude that I did not torque properly, or anti-seize worked too well or a combination of both. I thoroughly cleaned the head threads and want to reiterate that I did not use anti-seize this go around. Hand screwed the plugs to completion and used torque wrench to double check the spec. Beru Wires (long fellows) installed and the car is back to idle that makes me question if the car is actually running.
A secondary issue has come to pass, and it is been confounding for me and others. I purchased the SDS and was able to have multiple live data situations and they hall show that things are just as they should be. Real life says otherwise.
With a hot engine doing 2500-3000 RPM if I were to demand more fuel suddenly, the transmission kicks down perfectly and after a moment I begin to experience a coughing spell, a sputter. Somewhat like the moisture issue we all have had. After inspecting those components and switching them out and back again with new, same result. Live data sows perfect voltage, 1.27- 1.29 MS in fuel, etc nothing anywhere on the SDS live data. The GSXR and JLA have helped with the SDS acquisiton and the interpretations of it all. What we seem to come up with is that the sudden demand for more fuel at 3000 RPM "may be hampered" by old pumps and or filter. So this is plausible, and I have secured two Bosch pumps and have had the filter on the shelf in climate controlled circumstance for some time. I also have all the MB Fuel lines, hoses, connectors and strainer to completely replace everything from the tank to the hardlines coming off the fuel stack - I bought them all when I got the car.
I will report back to this thread with mileage for the complete project once I have completed the task. I have 3/4 of a tank and I dont expect to need gas for at least 3 weeks so... I'll be back with an update when there is something to update.
W124
Miles 134,225
Successfully removed the ORIGINAL fuel filter and pumps. Had a heck of a time sealing the banjo on one unit but ultimately a wheelbarrow full of money got me the MB washer specific size and that finished it right up. No leaking after 5 minutes under pressure and 10 minutes driving. Also changed out the 4 hangers on the fuel block for new MB rubber. Also while there I snugged up the recent exhaust from the cat back and later I will ramp the front end to complete the same process since we have had several heat cycles now and it had a note suggesting loose unions.
Miles 134,225
Successfully removed the ORIGINAL fuel filter and pumps. Had a heck of a time sealing the banjo on one unit but ultimately a wheelbarrow full of money got me the MB washer specific size and that finished it right up. No leaking after 5 minutes under pressure and 10 minutes driving. Also changed out the 4 hangers on the fuel block for new MB rubber. Also while there I snugged up the recent exhaust from the cat back and later I will ramp the front end to complete the same process since we have had several heat cycles now and it had a note suggesting loose unions.
As an add on to the above regarding the exhaust... I noticed the engine mount brackets were sans 2 bolts on the left side rear, and one loosed left front. I bought the proper size bolts at the store local since MB was NLA on them, and they just would not go in. Deduce that someone before me over torqued them and snapped them off. So I got shorter bolts that still left an airgap and got me better than adequate purchase of the threads. I did use blue loctight due to the 5mm shorter bolts and feel confident we are in good shape. A measure stick had me all over the place. Not sure what dilbert would have such an issue - I hope it wasn't one of the local shops - I dont think it was as they like to replace the upper pan gaskets regularly and mine showed some light seepage. Torqued them down as well.
Miles are the same, I have not driven it.
Miles are the same, I have not driven it.
ramp the front end?, or Race Ramp the front end?
W124 - 134,500
Finally got a doughnut spacer for the Fleiben cat-less resonator delete exhaust to quiet the note down. (same spacer that resides from crossover pipe mating to the Y pipe). Lastly, and what I suspect is finally the sputter under load has been corrected. As mentioned earlier, I suffered a rotor failure and that sent a lot of fuel into the factory cats that were only on borrowed time to begin with. I decided to replace the system. SDS shows live data to be spec, an did not show any issues with the car at temp in the shop, nor with 3000 rpm wile stationary. In the process I did go observe the MAF, specifically the white/brown appearance of a rubber gasket and decided to replace it. That process provided the unobstructed visual of the broken vacuum line under the intake and the split, gooey, sticky rubber connector to the back of the intake. I had replaced all lines when I bought the car, and this line was replaced partially and joined under the DS distributor cap. Thankful I had bulk purchased silicone vacuum connectors and used my 3' long medical forceps to make easy install of the connector and line. Lastly, I used heat sheathing for the entire length of vacuum line from the back of the intake to the ezl to preserve its life.
I had my stash of LH modules refurbished by member Alphasud40 and will be sending the rest of the can box spares for the same treatment. Also some gratitude credit here to GSXR, JLAA and MAW for help on this investigation and SDS acquisition, and over all encouragement.
Now the question becomes change the lower control arms with mb units in the parts bin orreplace the ball joints use new boots with mb units in the part bin.
@@@ additional edit @@@ leaving no stone un molested, I decided in the heat of the day to check my vacuum modulator and sure enough, the cracked spongy wastes rubber connector was there. I suspect the shop cheaped me out and used the OE instead of a silicone replacement. The OD of my silicone would not fit in that pre-determined space so a new mb rubber piece was used for it that fit perfectly, as expected. It looked like the first picture off the intake.
Finally got a doughnut spacer for the Fleiben cat-less resonator delete exhaust to quiet the note down. (same spacer that resides from crossover pipe mating to the Y pipe). Lastly, and what I suspect is finally the sputter under load has been corrected. As mentioned earlier, I suffered a rotor failure and that sent a lot of fuel into the factory cats that were only on borrowed time to begin with. I decided to replace the system. SDS shows live data to be spec, an did not show any issues with the car at temp in the shop, nor with 3000 rpm wile stationary. In the process I did go observe the MAF, specifically the white/brown appearance of a rubber gasket and decided to replace it. That process provided the unobstructed visual of the broken vacuum line under the intake and the split, gooey, sticky rubber connector to the back of the intake. I had replaced all lines when I bought the car, and this line was replaced partially and joined under the DS distributor cap. Thankful I had bulk purchased silicone vacuum connectors and used my 3' long medical forceps to make easy install of the connector and line. Lastly, I used heat sheathing for the entire length of vacuum line from the back of the intake to the ezl to preserve its life.
I had my stash of LH modules refurbished by member Alphasud40 and will be sending the rest of the can box spares for the same treatment. Also some gratitude credit here to GSXR, JLAA and MAW for help on this investigation and SDS acquisition, and over all encouragement.
Now the question becomes change the lower control arms with mb units in the parts bin or
@@@ additional edit @@@ leaving no stone un molested, I decided in the heat of the day to check my vacuum modulator and sure enough, the cracked spongy wastes rubber connector was there. I suspect the shop cheaped me out and used the OE instead of a silicone replacement. The OD of my silicone would not fit in that pre-determined space so a new mb rubber piece was used for it that fit perfectly, as expected. It looked like the first picture off the intake.
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@nocfn - Great discovery work. Its a fun time to chase down vacuum lines. Question for you on the noted exhaust donut 2024920281 - Where did you install a new one on your Fleiben system? I put in one from the crossover pipe -> dropdown / cat pipe, but I didn't think to install it anywhere else.
OK in my case, there is a slip fit on the cat delete pipe, to the resonator delete and then a fluted (bell of a trumpet) mating with clamp at the other side. So the system was not in one box, but after the fact order. So that connection of two pipes was identical connection to the front crossover to form the Y coming off the factory headers. (a side note that I have 400 cell bullet cats on the shelf and a Magnaflow X pipe. The note is 99% factory at idle now, so I am not certain that I will have either of them welded in. 25+ year old cars in Texas are exempt from such items) Under the premise of the E500E should be seen and not heard is again live and well.
Also some have asked me about this, but I used the 1/4" Hot Rod Sleeve p/n 204013 for vac lines and the corrugated stuff for engine bay wiring. I used Hot Rod Sleeve for the bigger engine connector rubber around the intake when all of those got replaced some 5 years ago. To the date, they are squishy soft so this is worth the price in my opinion.
Also some have asked me about this, but I used the 1/4" Hot Rod Sleeve p/n 204013 for vac lines and the corrugated stuff for engine bay wiring. I used Hot Rod Sleeve for the bigger engine connector rubber around the intake when all of those got replaced some 5 years ago. To the date, they are squishy soft so this is worth the price in my opinion.
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Your E500 has LCA's with non-replaceable ball joints. If they are still tight, I would NOT install the new late LCA's. You can refresh your existing LCA's with new ball joint boots. Save the new, late, NLA LCA's for when they are really needed.
I have performed a smoke test on the E500 as I am still fighting with issues. The EGR VALVE holds a strong vacuum, but the leak at the manifold was cavernous ... so much so that until this is fixed, no more smoke since it never makes it anywhere. My question is, i have two “sets” of mb gaskets. Setts because there are two identical gaskets so I am wondering if I use them both or just the one?
On another note, I had to replace my ezl as the tube was meshed to the rubber vacuum tube. I tried to rotate it, pull it and it finally came off…of the EZL, the vacuum nipple. Anyone have a thought on this repair?
On another note, I had to replace my ezl as the tube was meshed to the rubber vacuum tube. I tried to rotate it, pull it and it finally came off…of the EZL, the vacuum nipple. Anyone have a thought on this repair?
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On the broken EZL nipple, aside from trying a strong epoxy like Loctite 37513 to glue the old nipple back on, you may want to try a threaded vacuum nipple like the one in the picture. I think this came from an assorted kit. It's an M6 thread. I don't know how big a hole was made in the EZL when the nipple broke off but maybe you can tap a thread into the unit without damaging it.
The 2-part Loctite dries in about ten minutes and is the best epoxy I've ever used, especially for small jobs:
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-494151-Epoxy-Mixer-4-Gram/dp/B000HTPKNQ/1
The 2-part Loctite dries in about ten minutes and is the best epoxy I've ever used, especially for small jobs:
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-494151-Epoxy-Mixer-4-Gram/dp/B000HTPKNQ/1
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Assuming you mean the intake manifold to the cylinder head, left and right gaskets are different part numbers. See below.
Or did you mean there's an intake leak at the EGR valve?
+1 on epoxy to re-attach the nipple. Just make sure you get zero epoxy in the center hole! It can be built up around the outside.
The egr valve was removed from the top of the manifold, vigorously cleaned and still held a vacuum. I used a new EGR Gasket and performed a smoke test - success! I also checked the ohms on every spark plug wire and they passed. I checked the OHMS on the left (DS) cap and found different number OHMS with few similarities so I replaced the cap. I also replaced the FPR since that was replaced when I got the car.
Running out of options - especially since my bride has become the garage widow and she is not pleased at all. (nobody happy in this case) So I will run live data at some point when possible again to look strongly at each cylinder hertz, fuel etc. LH module, ETA, MAF have all been normal during this process.
Also - my new plugs were gapped very large more than 1.0 so I put them back to just at 1.0 to .98. THey had not many miles on them, less than 125.
Running out of options - especially since my bride has become the garage widow and she is not pleased at all. (nobody happy in this case) So I will run live data at some point when possible again to look strongly at each cylinder hertz, fuel etc. LH module, ETA, MAF have all been normal during this process.
Also - my new plugs were gapped very large more than 1.0 so I put them back to just at 1.0 to .98. THey had not many miles on them, less than 125.
It sounds to me like a comprehensive Top-End Refresh is in order for your green machine.
well no vac leaks after 10 mins of smoke on at temp engine. On a good note (pun intended) the X pipe I had added to the cat delete Fleiben unit was a success. That gave me almost a stock tone until I downshift then it is a low growl ... not offensive. I really wanted a seen and not heard experience and we are just about there.
Think about all of those hardened/fossilized vacuum lines, rubber connectors, baked throttle cable, fossilized ETA boot, brown windshield/headlight washer lines, non-functioning vapor valve for the charcoal canister, disintegrated @Jlaa-style headlight bucket foam pieces, idle air hoses, cracking wire sheathing, valve cover gaskets, and so forth.....and yellowed reservoirs on the passenger side....... 
@GVZ that link is embedded in bold on my favs so I refer to it often. I even have the gaskets and donuts on the shelf. and the 126 needs a smoke test as well, gauge is looking ugly on vacuum there.
on the 124 - they have all been proactively replaced in heat sheath as well. There are no vacuum leaks on the 124, even the airpump is good (hoses too) with spares on the shelf.
on the 124 - they have all been proactively replaced in heat sheath as well. There are no vacuum leaks on the 124, even the airpump is good (hoses too) with spares on the shelf.