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OWNER nocfn

Well I got in the W124 today and lowered all the windows to let the heat escape. That lovely cable issue attacked me with the OE regulator. I was able to manually pulse the switch and pull the cable to get the window up. I affixed a 1/2' pvc pipe to keep the window supported, using a few zip ties to keep the support tube from shifting away from the regulator vertical guide. So first project I do after the move will be to get the improved style regulator and make the swap. Hopefully My shop will be fully stocked with a/c and a lift. Details to follow on all of this as they come available.

:update:

Fedex to deliver regulator today, but will table the install after the move.
 
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W124.036 130,700


I just replaced a Behr Tstat with a Wahler. I installed this not long ago (Sep 2020) when I did the coolant flush and hose replacements but it was not impressing me. I suddenly saw temps (all sensors are new) pushing the 112-117 range while at idle in heavy traffic. Yes the feels like temp was 107 with gulf coast climate, and my fans were running and was the roar fan. I just think I had a bad Tstat.

I drilled two holes as suggested by Jono in a new Wahler, stuck it in and replaced coolant. Went for a drive after the car got to temp and cycled thru defrost, heat and AC for 4 minutes each, added more coolant after cool down and did the process again. For now, things appear to be better than the last Tstat - now in the trash heap!
 

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Undo bolts let coolant spill over neighbors drive, replace tstat, fill with fluid and go for a drive. Park car in my drive, hose down neighbors drive before they get home.
 
nocfn said:
W124.036 130,700k
Click to expand...
Damn. Did you drive to the moon and back or something? 130 million miles is a CRAPTON of miles. :stickpoke:
nocfn said:
I just replaced a Behr Tstat with a Wahler. I installed this not long ago (Sep 2020) when I did the coolant flush and hose replacements but it was not impressing me. I suddenly saw temps (all sensors are new) pushing the 112-117 range while at idle in heavy traffic. Yes the feels like temp was 107 with gulf coast climate, and my fans were running and was the roar fan. I just think I had a bad Tstat.

I drilled two holes as suggested by Jono in a new Wahler, stuck it in and replaced coolant. Went for a drive after the car got to temp and cycled thru defrost, heat and AC for 4 minutes each, added more coolant after cool down and did the process again. For now, things appear to be better than the last Tstat - now in the trash heap!
Click to expand...
So the Behr Tstat didn't work for you? Just curious. I have a Mahle circa 2016 (which I'm guessing is the same as the Behr). I don't have any temp issues, but I live in a Mediterranean climate. 2021 was like the COLDEST 🥶 July on record here having not broken 70F at all for the first time in 56 years. S.F. temps didn't crack the 70s in July for first time in 56 years. Here's the August outlook

Anyways --- I am wondering about the holes --- how / where and what is the theory?
 
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I think the additional holes drilled is a hot-climate mod only. Not sure I'd want to attempt it anywhere that gets near or below freezing.

I don't fully understand the theory behind it helping keep temps down, either. The t-stat is a bypass design that must be fully open to force all coolant to flow through the radiator, and in this position, the extra holes should make no difference.

:scratchchin:
 
I did 2/3 of what Jono does, I put in the holes but left the bubler. I had the Behr/Meyle boxed unit and all it said was Made in Germany. I dropped the "k" since you cannot be terrific if not specific! It is possible that I have just a bum tstat. New one is in and its fine after 30 miles.
 
Since temps were in the 112-117 range while at idle in heavy traffic before, what are they now in the same conditions?

:apl:
 
nocfn said:
I did 2/3 of what Jono does, I put in the holes but left the bubler.
Click to expand...
Apologies if my question is dense --- what is a bubbler? Do you mean the ball valve that lets bubbles escape when the engine is off?

1628888676206.png

nocfn said:
I had the Behr/Meyle boxed unit and all it said was Made in Germany.
Click to expand...

I think you mean Behr/Mahle right?

Anyways, did anyone realize that Mahle/Behr has TWO part numbers for the thermostat? See below:

TecDoc

TecDoc Catalogue by TecAlliance - one of the world's leading global vehicle and spare parts catalogues for the automotive aftermarket based on the TecDoc standard.
web.tecalliance.net web.tecalliance.net


1628888720347.png
 
I will let @jono discuss the issues, he has had success for years for cars in the gulf states with this mod. YMMV.
 
Jlaa said:
Damn. Did you drive to the moon and back or something? 130 million miles is a CRAPTON of miles. :stickpoke:

So the Behr Tstat didn't work for you? Just curious. I have a Mahle circa 2016 (which I'm guessing is the same as the Behr). I don't have any temp issues, but I live in a Mediterranean climate. 2021 was like the COLDEST 🥶 July on record here having not broken 70F at all for the first time in 56 years. S.F. temps didn't crack the 70s in July for first time in 56 years. Here's the August outlook

Anyways --- I am wondering about the holes --- how / where and what is the theory?
Click to expand...
Mediterranean climate my ass. :stickpoke:Here in OC is the real Mediterranean Climate. Your area is more like Freezing Frisco Climate.

Sicily was 48.8C / 120F 2 days ago. It’s been around 90F almost every day here in the OC for July and August. I couldn’t read your August temps unless I paid your cheap ass newspaper 99 cents. :jono:
 
TerryA said:
Mediterranean climate my ass. :stickpoke:Here in OC is the real Mediterranean Climate. Your area is more like Freezing Frisco Climate.

Sicily was 48.8C / 120F 2 days ago. It’s been around 90F almost every day here in the OC for July and August. I couldn’t read your August temps unless I paid your cheap ass newspaper 99 cents. :jono:
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Dang that is quite the takedown! :fun::lolol:

TerryA said:
OK, THEN WHAT'S THE "REASONABLE NUMBER OF REACTIONS in a 24 HOUR PERIOD"?


I AM STILL SHUT OFF TO REACTIONS. WHEN DO I GET OUT OF JAIL?:runexe:
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@TerryA, brother, I regret my part in getting you amnesty. I think its time to go back bother --- back to the slammer for you.... :klink: :lolzz:
 
:update:

After driving several short trips - I have been happy. The temps get where they need to be, but not as high. I have been packing up the house of 15 years for the move, and have driven some, but not enough. We are expected to see 105-110 feels like temps the next 2-3 days here in Houston and I will be doing some brief trips that will definitely get me hot in traffic and stop lights. I am pretty sure that the previous Tstat was less than optimal results out of the box. I do have the S-Africa built radiator in storage, this may be one of my projects over the winter months in the new house. That will prompt Gerry to get me to do project creep and replace a bucket load of stuff on the front of the car like water pump that is showing no signs of problems (I have 2 NIB on the shelf) Crank seal that isn't leaking yet and an R/R of an aftermarket fan cluthc that is still working. Sure would like to have 2 other issues pressing before I swap in a radiator though....
 
Front crank seal is a must. All soft parts and foam pieces in the engine compartment. Cleaning everything. Headlight bucket removal and cleaning. Replace all vacuum lines and rubber connectors that have not yet been replaced. Heater hoses. Intake manifold removal and re-seal. You have $10-12K+ of deferred maintenance waiting for you !!!
 
I do not have all that to do Gerry, I have done all of that save crank seal and manifold removal. :D Please remember the condition upon purchase - dumb down to Sportline with wrong headlights, fenders and bumper. Crank seal isnt leaking yet but will weigh in on the while you are there stuff while I am there. The 10-12k has been more than spent over my ownership period. :D

:rugby:
 
nocfn said:
I do not have all that to do Gerry,
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Not the first time, by far, I have seen this said on this forum. Remember, ALL cars under 100K miles carry at least $5K, and >100K miles carry at least $10K of deferred maintenance. What I found, is that my own car with 142K had probably $25+K of work (to pay a shop to do) that I did myself.

Doesn't matter if one's car returned from 3 months in the shop yesterday, and a $10K paid bill, it's still got that $5 or $10K.

Only exception I would be able to see would be @600Eric's car, which went a full resto. Nobody else has really done that.
 
E500 - replaced the antenna gears for a second time in my ownership. Lubed and clean. Unfornately my outer body cover [rubber grommet] wet the bed (it broke). So I have ordered a few units that "report" to be for the 94 E500 and I will see what we have once they get here. I did the ebay, amazon, becker and Turkey versions and will report back on what if any works. (after I order 3 more of the one that works the best :gsxr2: so stay tuned.)

If you need gears for the facelift version - Antenna masts r us . com Part# A105-1 search for that store on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/AntennaMastRus-Hirschmann-POWER-ANTENNA-Mercedes/dp/B01K8AHELY
 
Ugh - got in the E tonight to get some take-out Chinese food and noticed my deck lid brake light was laying on the deck!
I will investigate that.

More concerning was the bright lights did not come on, infact when engaging the combo switch, the lights went dark. Turn signals, hazard, running, backup, brakes and fogs all work.

Is there a high beam fuse or relay or is it usually the combo switch?
 
nocfn said:
Ugh - got in the E tonight to get some take-out Chinese food and noticed my deck lid brake light was laying on the deck!
I will investigate that.

More concerning was the bright lights did not come on, infact when engaging the combo switch, the lights went dark. Turn signals, hazard, running, backup, brakes and fogs all work.

Is there a high beam fuse or relay or is it usually the combo switch?
Click to expand...
Start here. Do fuse 8/13/14/15/16 all look ok?
Also how do the pins/contacts on the N7 BoW Relay look? (before you condemn the combo switch...)
1639708700522.png
 
Thanks for the stuff, I will have glimpse at it all sometime Friday and let the forum know. O would always check the fuses/relays first. These headlamps are new from MB. I bought two new sets when they were available.
 
Well fuses are fine. Removed all and there was no corrosion on any of them. Pulled all relays and they were shiny brass male and female connections. Here is the light relay. As a precaution i sprayed all relays with electrical cleaner and reset. Same result on the lights.
 

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If the light relay is the same as your SEC, swap 'em, if you don't have a spare. If the combo switch is original and everything else checks out, it might be the switch.

:124:
 
It is the same relay between the SEC and the E500.

Combo switches DO go bad - I had to replace one in a 1995 white-on-black E320 wagon that I owned some years back. The later cars have a different part number than earlier models; but I was able to adapt an "early" combo switch for the wagon.
 
gsxr said:
Nope, just that (almost) all lighting routes through it, and there isn't much else in the circuit. And it's easier to swap the relay for a test, than to swap the combo switch.
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well I took the working relay out of the C126 and replaced it with my spare relay and also the E500 questionable relay. All three relays performed the cycle on the C126, and I replaced that switch due to crumbling insulation falling out of the steering column plastic. I then returned to the E500 and as with the original relay, all three failed to turn on the bright lights.

So then, I could try to clean the stalk as it sits on the car. I found that the OE on the c126 had considerable crud inside the "switch or contact" points as one pushes and rotates the switch. But, IIRC the springs are under great tension and it took me quite a bit of time looking for them as they shot multiple feet away when It was opened. So, I think we order a new switch and call it done..... unless there is another solution.

:update:

Order placed for the new switch and some other odds and ends related to other items.
 
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nocfn said:
well I took the working relay out of the C126 and replaced it with my spare relay and also the E500 questionable relay. All three relays performed the cycle on the C126, and I replaced that switch due to crumbling insulation falling out of the steering column plastic. I then returned to the E500 and as with the original relay, all three failed to turn on the bright lights.

So then, I could try to clean the stalk as it sits on the car. I found that the OE on the c126 had considerable crud inside the "switch or contact" points as one pushes and rotates the switch. But, IIRC the springs are under great tension and it took me quite a bit of time looking for them as they shot multiple feet away when It was opened. So, I think we order a new switch and call it done..... unless there is another solution.

:update:

Order placed for the new switch and some other odds and ends related to other items.
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:update: number 2

Naperville says 2 weeks from
germany…. Only 6 left I was told.
 
Jlaa said:
Interesting!! The EPC lists a different switch for the '94+ cars vs the pre-facelift cars....
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Yes - pre/post facelift switches are completely different. The pre-facelift is NLA, IIRC.
 
Yep, NLA, at least it was 6 months ago. Was a real annoyance for a while until I ended up finding it as a NOS part after a few months of looking. Would be cool if they are available from MB again
 
Jlaa said:
Hmmmm are you sure it is NLA?
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My bad! It's the pre-facelift cruise control switch that is NLA:

partssearch.mercedes-benz-classic.com

Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search.

Browse through the Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search to see the availability of parts, promotional and newly manufactured parts and order them online (only in Germany).
partssearch.mercedes-benz-classic.com partssearch.mercedes-benz-classic.com

@TimL, is the combo (headlight/wiper) switch also NLA now?

:jelmerian: :doof:
 
131,107

Completed the install of the combination switch. Rather routine, but there were discoveries. I was aware that the steering wheel had been removed as the leather wrap was not stock, but wrapped with facelift (ahem) mushroom leather and black, rather than just the stock black. In any event, I usually can break the bolt free with my 2' breaker bar while pulling down on the wheel in opposite direction. No joy, so the air wrench it was since nobody was around to hold the wheel for me.

The removed bolt had 2/3 of the threads with blue locktite and very thick. So I soaked the bolt in brake-clean while I did the job and used my thread cleaning tool to remove the rest in short order. Once the wheel was off I noticed the clock spring mechanism looked a bit rough. Seems that the last hands that touched this got sloppy with the wheel install at some point and broke the left-side tab. I don't think it was the last time the wheel was put on as there was no evidence of broken plastic. I also suspect that while that tab has a purpose, not sure what it could have been other than for positioning the outer cover accordingly. I have deduced that the odd goop (industry term) that was gelled on around the wiring on the right side meant they knew about the issue. Most likely the shop cashier smiled broadly as the technician collected the fees from the previous owner for a job well done (and not seen).

Either way, I ordered a new clock spring mechanism from MB and will take the wheel off once again, clean the blue off and reapply just after I install the new clock spring mechanism. I have included the picture of the current offending clock spring. You can see the broken let tab clearly but if you zoom in at the base of the wire harness there, you will see the magical goop and the insulation-thin wiring where the goop failed to protect the wires from friction.

:update:

131,138

I installed the new clock spring I received from Naperville. Energized the car and voila, the SRS systerm is working and the airbag did not break open - always a bonus. I cut off the ribbon wire from the OE clock spring. The new one is identical to the OE, and very simple to install. Two spade connections and two under dash connections where the plugs only fit one way. Idiot proof really. Anyway, she is done now. And if anyone reads this and wonders about T27 or T30, the T30 works perfectly, and the T27 goes in enough that the taper of the tool adequately grabs enough of the screw to remove it.


I will update the thread when the clockspring is replaced. (a note of thanks for the awesome HOW-TO by Ricardo)
 

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TimL said:
Yep, NLA, at least it was 6 months ago. Was a real annoyance for a while until I ended up finding it as a NOS part after a few months of looking. Would be cool if they are available from MB again
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gsxr said:
@TimL, is the combo (headlight/wiper) switch also NLA now?

:jelmerian: :doof:
Click to expand...
@TimL @gsxr
I think the pre-facelift combo (HL/wiper) switch is still available. I just bought one.

IMG_6931.jpeg IMG_6932.jpeg IMG_6933.jpeg IMG_6934.jpeg IMG_6935.jpeg
 
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nocfn said:
... Seems that the last hands that touched this got sloppy with the wheel install at some point and broke the left-side tab. ... they knew about the issue. Most likely the shop cashier smiled broadly as the technician collected the fees from the previous owner for a job well done (and not seen).
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I feel your pain. One of my project 124's (not 036) was serviced by a European repair shop in Bellevue area, as the PO lived in that area. I've spent more time fixing their screwups than you could imagine. Just yesterday I had to pull the driver window regulator out to see why a BRAND NEW regulator and BRAND NEW motor would be intermittent, and the motor would stop/start if I wiggled the wires at the door.

Turns out that new Bosch window regulator motors come without wires attached. The shop did a poor job of soldering on the old wires to the new motor, resulting in a bad connection. I re-soldered the wires and now it works great. Only cost me 1-2 hours of time.

The PO was out nearly $1000 for a job not done correctly in 2016. ($148 for the regulator, $228 for the motor, $523 for 5.5 hours labor).

This is why I have to do all my own work... if you want it done right, yadda yadda...

:oldman:
 
nocfn said:
I edited the 12/28 post. T30 worked on Airbag and so with the T27. Clockspring installed without incident.
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I believe T30 is the correct size, but T27 should work in a pinch. I have the shorty factory tool which, IIRC, doesn't state the T-size anywhere.

Good to hear you got clock-sprung without incident!

:sawzall:
 
C126 182,200

Put on the new Lorinser RS90 17" that I had purchased in pristine condition today. They had been in storage since I received tham around 6-10 months ago. I wrapped them up in new Conti Extreme Contact+ 235/45/17 94W. My other Conti removed off the existing wheels as they were down to and some past the wear bars.

I will be selling the removed wheels if someone is looking for wheels for a W126. I had them refinished when I purchased them, and I would rate them on Very Good Condition compared to the Pristine Set I just had installed. Here are a few Pics:

51F39A8C-0445-45E6-A4AD-92BFE9234DBA.jpeg452F4D52-8370-413F-83C4-DE7B4CB148BA.jpeg
 
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E500 131,722


Pulled the E500 out for the summer and put the C126 up for a rest. Since my house move saga last August-September, I had put on ice the notion of replacing the rear left window regulator. As of yesterday, that project is now complete.

The Marelli aftermarket unit (reversible unit for either side) was pretty simple. I had (Chose) to splice in the factory wiring for my own aesthetic desires but the ends come on the unit as bare wire anyway so instead of eyelet connections only I used a longer length of the OEM harness with heat-shrink tubes. Managed to get door card reinstalled with issue, check strap lube still good and the debris in side the door was zilch. Process took about an hour, including getting the fan out as the sun came up over the house and began to bake the storage shop with eastern exposure.


443A4100-231E-4512-9A9E-A00CC3690975.jpeg
 

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E500

Well crap!

Startus Interuptus!

High pitched whine coming from the alternator, battery didn't recharge and it will be replaced. AGM battery outside the 4 year free replacement from the original purchase as this would have been the second free battery. It has been on the tender while in storage.

It was DOA after 3 drives and I have no records of removal or replacement of components on the alternator. I purchased a new COO India Bosch Voltage Regulator when I bought the car but I never installed it as there was a faint whine and the time has come to replace the unit. So the new battery is on the shelf and we shall time permitting get the car on the lift and R/R the new Bosch Reman unit. I bought two with full refund within 30 days, not a bad strategy with electrical components. My belt is about 3k miles new but will inspect and replace if needed. The tensioner unit on my car has the male torx and it appears a bit gnarly so I may have to replace that bugger as well. I have a COO Germany Febi as the MB was NLA at the time of purchase but I see that is available now. Will see if it is available with a call to Bob should I have to change it out as well.
 
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So I have been prepping for alternator replacement. I bought one reman bosch from Parts retailer and one MB REMAN Bosch from FCP with the warranty. Removal is a PITA, especially since my quickjack O ring failed on one of my hose connections so had to go old school with jacks and stands and blocks of wood. The unit was original and was whining badly along with spent vtage regulator.
 

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Just got a notice from FCP Euro of a refund. They get their alternators from MB and there is no eta for the fulfillment in the next 30 days so I got a full refund. The partsgeek unit I got is actually a larger 115 versus stock 110. I reviewed the voltage regulator of the Bosch factory reman and the voltage regulator is not labeled but it is new (sans for slight wear from testing). I hope to get it installed and ship the core back for the refund.
 
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