Sometimes, when my E500 is at full operating temperature, the oil pressure gauge needle will start jumping around, from the 1 bar mark to the 3 mark, at pretty high speed. Any suggestions on diagnosis?
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
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Oil Pressure Gauge
- Thread starter remotemark
- Start date
Sounds very much to me like the pressure sender, which is on the oil filter housing. A fairly easy job to replace and a fairly inexpensive part.
The needle should be at the 3-bar mark whenever the engine is above about 1,500 RPM, and above about 0.75 bar at idle on a hot day with a hot engine (perhaps 1 or higher on a milder day).
Senders are not unusual to go out. Somewhat rare, but still within the realm of possibility, would be the cluster pressure gauge itself, but I'd replace the sender and see if that remedies the situation.
Cheers,
Gerry
The needle should be at the 3-bar mark whenever the engine is above about 1,500 RPM, and above about 0.75 bar at idle on a hot day with a hot engine (perhaps 1 or higher on a milder day).
Senders are not unusual to go out. Somewhat rare, but still within the realm of possibility, would be the cluster pressure gauge itself, but I'd replace the sender and see if that remedies the situation.
Cheers,
Gerry
R
Rudy
Guest
Hello,
anyone has the PN handy?
Thanks,
Rudy
anyone has the PN handy?
Thanks,
Rudy
The part number is 006 542 94 17 and I would also get a new sealing ring part number N 007603 012113 to go with it.
Naperville (MB OEM Parts) lists the prices for these items as:
Sender: $68.40 (list price $95)
O-ring: $1.08 (list price $1.50)
Note: Pricing as of Feb-2012.
Sender: $76.96 (list price $104)
O-ring: $0.74 (list price $1.00)
Note: Pricing as of Aug-2018.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Gerry
Naperville (MB OEM Parts) lists the prices for these items as:
Sender: $68.40 (list price $95)
O-ring: $1.08 (list price $1.50)
Note: Pricing as of Feb-2012.
Sender: $76.96 (list price $104)
O-ring: $0.74 (list price $1.00)
Note: Pricing as of Aug-2018.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Gerry
Attachments
R
Rudy
Guest
oh it does help.
I love cheap spare parts.
Hate engine parts which I have to buy in pairs.
Rudy
I love cheap spare parts.
Hate engine parts which I have to buy in pairs.
Rudy
Hi Gerry. Thanks for the details. Where did the schematic of the oil filter/housing/sender come from?
I replaced the sender. The gauge continued to jump around and now just stays at zero. Next should be gauge? Or lower harness?
I believe there is a sensor located in the lower oil pan as well
Yes, Check the lower harness for degradation .
Nipple outside is connected inside the oil pan is the "oil level sensor"
With a new sender installed, you can test at the instrument cluster for appropriate resistance readings at the multi-pin connector, with the engine off and then running. If the readings are as expected, the gauge is likely bad. If not, the lower harness is questionable.
Another test would be to use appropriate-rated resistors temporarily connected to the cluster wiring, to "force" gauge readings. If the gauge doesn't read as outlined in the FSM procedure below, the gauge is bad. This is a tad more complicated. It can also be done on the workbench with the cluster removed from the car, and a 12v battery source, and a bunch of test leads & resistors...
If the gauge is determined to be faulty: make sure you're sitting down when you check the price on a new one. Then post here and we'll see about locating a good used one instead.
Another test would be to use appropriate-rated resistors temporarily connected to the cluster wiring, to "force" gauge readings. If the gauge doesn't read as outlined in the FSM procedure below, the gauge is bad. This is a tad more complicated. It can also be done on the workbench with the cluster removed from the car, and a 12v battery source, and a bunch of test leads & resistors...
If the gauge is determined to be faulty: make sure you're sitting down when you check the price on a new one. Then post here and we'll see about locating a good used one instead.
Holy Mole! $1090 list, $780 parts.com. Good thing I was sitting down.
Well, it turns out to be the gauge. Anybody done the research on what other models' gauges will work? I really don't want to spend $800 on a new one.
Mark, no other US-based model has a gauge that will drop in. You ideally need a donor gauge (tested and gauranteed good!) from a 500E/E500.
That said, a standard gauge pod (from a 'standard' 124 sedan) can be modified to work in the 500E. Drop me an email for more info...
That said, a standard gauge pod (from a 'standard' 124 sedan) can be modified to work in the 500E. Drop me an email for more info...
Can you post it publicly how to modify a different gauge to work with the 500es... ?Mark, no other US-based model has a gauge that will drop in. You ideally need a donor gauge (tested and gauranteed good!) from a 500E/E500.
That said, a standard gauge pod (from a 'standard' 124 sedan) can be modified to work in the 500E. Drop me an email for more info...
Dave, I second Christian's request.
I'm currently researching on 93 500E cluster compatibility with 95 E420 (with ASR) cluster. I've been told that it is a direct swap except for the fuel gauge that's not calibrated for the large 500E tank. I'm afraid to do a direct swap because I might burn something in the process. So, I'm on the fence.
I need to fix my cluster because the oil gauge needle points above 3 at full pressure and sometimes stays there even if I turn off the engine. I'm tempted to remove the temp, fuel, oil pod from the 420 cluster and install it to the 500 cluster. But, I don't have enough information on the clusters' compatibility.
Any information on the subject would be much appreciated.
Ed
Howdy Ed,
You can drop in a gauge pod from a standard sedan (300E, 400E, E420, etc) and it will work ok. The difference is, the standard (E420) fuel gauge will never indicate below approx 1/8 tank when the 500E tank is empty, and the indicated level will always be slightly off. The reserve light will function normally. The temp and oil pressure sections are identical on all 124's so that's a non-issue. So, using the E420 gauge in your 500E is one option, depending on how much it bothers you. The 500E uses a shorter sender in the tank that only reads to ~80 ohms instead of ~86 ohms with the tank empty. It's all in the FSM (click here).
I've seen the failure where the oil pressure gauge sticks at 3 even when the engine is off. AFAIK, that's a bad gauge and it's not fixable. I've had that problem on one of my cars too. It can be caused by pulling the needles off the gauge (i.e., to swap on a white-face gauge kit), or it could be just a random failure. If you want an original 500E gauge cluster, I may have a used one for sale in a couple of weeks, tested & guaranteed good...
You can drop in a gauge pod from a standard sedan (300E, 400E, E420, etc) and it will work ok. The difference is, the standard (E420) fuel gauge will never indicate below approx 1/8 tank when the 500E tank is empty, and the indicated level will always be slightly off. The reserve light will function normally. The temp and oil pressure sections are identical on all 124's so that's a non-issue. So, using the E420 gauge in your 500E is one option, depending on how much it bothers you. The 500E uses a shorter sender in the tank that only reads to ~80 ohms instead of ~86 ohms with the tank empty. It's all in the FSM (click here).
I've seen the failure where the oil pressure gauge sticks at 3 even when the engine is off. AFAIK, that's a bad gauge and it's not fixable. I've had that problem on one of my cars too. It can be caused by pulling the needles off the gauge (i.e., to swap on a white-face gauge kit), or it could be just a random failure. If you want an original 500E gauge cluster, I may have a used one for sale in a couple of weeks, tested & guaranteed good...
Dave,
Thanks for your quick and very informative reply. So, the temp,fuel, oil pod of standard W124 would work with the 500E cluster except the fuel gauge would be inaccurate. That's good news to me. Also, I read the FSM and got me to think that if I install a standard fuel level sender to match the standard gauge the reading would be correct. No?
Let me know when your 500E cluster is ready (and how much). If my experiment fails I would want an original cluster.
Thanks for your quick and very informative reply. So, the temp,fuel, oil pod of standard W124 would work with the 500E cluster except the fuel gauge would be inaccurate. That's good news to me. Also, I read the FSM and got me to think that if I install a standard fuel level sender to match the standard gauge the reading would be correct. No?
Let me know when your 500E cluster is ready (and how much). If my experiment fails I would want an original cluster.
Hi Ed,
You are correct. Please note that if you swap in the "standard" level sensor from the E420, the E420 gauge will read more accurately, but still slightly differently than the original 500E gauge+sender. However, when using the E420 gauge+sender in the 90L tank, the reserve amount will be reduced to approx 2.0 gallons, instead of the normal 3.0 gallons. That's because the E420 sender is longer and there is less fuel in the tank when the light is triggered.
You are correct. Please note that if you swap in the "standard" level sensor from the E420, the E420 gauge will read more accurately, but still slightly differently than the original 500E gauge+sender. However, when using the E420 gauge+sender in the 90L tank, the reserve amount will be reduced to approx 2.0 gallons, instead of the normal 3.0 gallons. That's because the E420 sender is longer and there is less fuel in the tank when the light is triggered.
Dave,
Please PM me how much you want for your cluster so I can determine the most cost effective way of solving my problem. Your temp,fuel, oil pod will be a direct swap. While, the fix I'm planning consists of modification of another system to fix the actual problem. And still not perfect.
Please PM me how much you want for your cluster so I can determine the most cost effective way of solving my problem. Your temp,fuel, oil pod will be a direct swap. While, the fix I'm planning consists of modification of another system to fix the actual problem. And still not perfect.
My oil pressure gauge used to be pinned at 3 whenever I started the car & it would stay there while the car ran. When shut off the gauge would be at zero. Changed out the sender below the oil filter canister and oil pressure readings are normal now.
I already ordered the oil pressure sender/switch. I'll replace it and see how it goes. But, I sensed my gauge is faulty because the needle move above (beyond) 3 on full pressure above 1500RPM and 2 at idle when warmed up to operating temp. Sometimes the needle stay stacked at above 3 with the engine off and I need to tap the dashboard to bring the needle back to zero. Anyway, thanks for the tip.
1) Firstly, Meyle is not a brand that is well respected around these parts. Perhaps try OE?
2) Secondly, it may also be the case that the lower wirng harness is not in good shape (eco junk disintegration) — has that been replaced?
Measure the resistance of the sending unit with the engine OFF. Specs are in the FSM, PDF files are linked back in post #13 of this thread. You should get a low reading, around 10 ohms. If it reads a couple hundred ohms or more with the engine off, the sending unit is defective. If it measures OK, you could have a bad lower wiring harness. If the gauge sticks at 3 with the ignition off / key removed, the gauge is defective.
The Meyle sending unit is junk, even if it measures OK, it should be replaced with OE, or OEM (Hella / VDO).
The Meyle sending unit is junk, even if it measures OK, it should be replaced with OE, or OEM (Hella / VDO).
Oil pressure senders on the M119 seem to be one of those "If you don't buy OE/OEM you'll regret it sooner than later" parts. I've seen people use Meyle and other no-name brands only to find that the gauge does not read correctly or they fail prematurely. I've stuck to VDO (OEM) and OE senders, and while not cheap, I've never had a problem with one of them.
Dan
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