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500Eboard Management
OWNER - Maui
- Thread starter Maui
- Start date
A theory that could also perhaps help explain the performance of 400Eric's "Benzer" family.....A most intriguing theory!
We are getting our first snow storm of the season in Portland today. Last week we were enjoying mid 50's and this week we are below freezing. Roads are a mess today and everyone is leaving work early. I'm glad I was in the 4x4 today.
Yesterday I took the SL into MBI and had them change the ABC fluid and filter as preventative maintenance. Glad it was yesterday and not today. I can't imagine having the SL out today.
Yesterday I took the SL into MBI and had them change the ABC fluid and filter as preventative maintenance. Glad it was yesterday and not today. I can't imagine having the SL out today.
The Silver Arrow brakes are now installed. I don't notice much difference from the stock brakes, but the slotted rotors and Brembo label sure look nice.
I've noticed some oil or power steering fluid around the PS pump. It looks like I know what my next project will be.
I've noticed some oil or power steering fluid around the PS pump. It looks like I know what my next project will be.
Very common problem on these cars, some screws on tandem pump are nightmare. Gerry's write up was very helpful to me.
Take some brake cleaner and spray it around the area to clean it off. Then drive the car and see if you can determine where the fluid is coming from. Check the level in your PS reservoir. Hopefully it's just your short hose.
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The big difference is at high speeds. Try to stop quick from 100mph (or more) with the original brakes and you'll likely have a serious pucker moment. The Silver Arrows are actually functional at 100mph+, and will also allow repeated hard stops without fading. Ask Vookster about that. He loves 'em, even at Willow Springs. Remember to let the new pads+rotors fully break in / bed properly before you get on the brakes hard! A few hundred miles of city driving will be adequate, then you can stomp on them. In the meantime, avoid hard stops.
That almost sounded vaguely insulting! I'll assume you were referring to Ken's short power steering hose.
There are 5 common leak points on the power steering system. In order of probability:
- Short hose between reservoir & pump - VERY common
- "S" shaped hose between engine and frame rail
- Tandem pump front seal (NOTE: This leaks SLS fluid, not PS fluid!)
- Low pressure hose along frame rail, behind heat shield
- Steering box, at output shaft above Pitman arm
It is often difficult to pinpoint the source. You'll need to clean everything up first, and then tuck paper towel "diapers" in appropriate areas to determine what is, or is not, leaking. Item #1 is the most common and makes the biggest mess because it's the highest on the engine, piddling all over the AC compressor, etc. Item #2 is next most common. Both are relatively straightforward to replace, not easy, but definitely DIY-able.
The front seal on the tandem pump can leak, but when it does leak, it leaks SLS fluid. If you are losing PS fluid, and not SLS, the pump is probably fine. This can often be confirmed by removing the belt and removing the pulley, so you can see the front of the pump. If it's dry, that's great, you can look elsewhere. If the pump is leaking, see if it is ZF or Vickers. If it's ZF, remove & rebuild it following Gerry's awesome DIY on the forum. If it's Vickers, I'd consider getting a rebuilt and turning yours in as a core.
Item #4 is less common, thankfully, as it's a PITA to replace that bugger. The steering box is easy to rule out, just look and see if it's dry or wet. For #5, I've got a DIY thread on the forum for the Pitman shaft seal replacement on the steering box. #5 is a messy job, it will puke fluid on your head when you take it apart... not fun.
With any luck it will be item #1, which is 2-4 hours DIY. I just replaced that exact hose this morning on my wife's E420, it was leaking like a sieve! Click here for the TSB which shows how to do it... remove reservoir and then remove the threaded nipple.
Hey now, that's what she said.
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Maui....did you upgrade to steel braided brake lines? Did you do the rear brake upgrade as well?
Yes I did the rears and steel braided hoses all the way around.
You have to order the hose by the meter; you can get it from AutohausAZ.com, or if you want it sooner just get a length from Mercedes/Wilsonville, as they will stock hose like this. I'd consider doing as I did (and I took DW SD's advice) and putting 4 hose clamps on the hose/nipple instead of the customary MB two clamps.
Yes, you will need the aluminum sealing ring (crush washer), paper seal for under the reservoir, and the length of hose. To remove the reservoir you will need female Torx (aka reverse Torx) sockets to get the four bolts. A 10mm Allen socket will make short work of the threaded nipple that fits inside of the short hose. My DIY really shows it all. I also posted as part of the DIY, the replacement of the steering box (pitman arm) output shaft seal, if that does need replacing. As Dave said, a simple visual inspection for any weeping will tell you everything you need to know. Mine was BARELY wet (not leaking droplets) but since I was pretty much "in there" I decided to just bite the bullet and do it.
The "S" power steering hose is a significant PITA, and has to be done from underneath the car, but as Dave said it is DIY-able. You have to get that pre-molded hose from MB. Furthermore to do that hose you have to buy a length (again by the meter) of the aluminum hose heat shielding from MB (it's cheap) and the cut the length, and mold it around the hose. And you have to make a couple of rectangular cut-outs at the ends of the heat shielding so that you can accommodate the ring clamp at each end of the "S" hose. Best thing is to just pattern it off of the factory hose/shielding that you remove.
I hope that it is not your tandem pump. As I said, take a look in your PS reservoir to see if your fluid level is going down. That's how I determined what my problem was; I probably didn't have to reseal the tandem pump but again decided to do it for proactive maintenance. The only hose I was too much of a wuss to do was the straight hose under the heat shield, along the frame rail. IMHO replacing that hose could well be one of the toughest jobs on an E500. I'd rather remove the cylinder heads and do a full top-end rebuild than replace that hose. I tried and poked around at doing it (I have the hose new) but didn't see any obvious ways to do it, despite GAS-XR and samiam44 saying it's totally possible.
Cheers,
Gerry
Yes, you will need the aluminum sealing ring (crush washer), paper seal for under the reservoir, and the length of hose. To remove the reservoir you will need female Torx (aka reverse Torx) sockets to get the four bolts. A 10mm Allen socket will make short work of the threaded nipple that fits inside of the short hose. My DIY really shows it all. I also posted as part of the DIY, the replacement of the steering box (pitman arm) output shaft seal, if that does need replacing. As Dave said, a simple visual inspection for any weeping will tell you everything you need to know. Mine was BARELY wet (not leaking droplets) but since I was pretty much "in there" I decided to just bite the bullet and do it.
The "S" power steering hose is a significant PITA, and has to be done from underneath the car, but as Dave said it is DIY-able. You have to get that pre-molded hose from MB. Furthermore to do that hose you have to buy a length (again by the meter) of the aluminum hose heat shielding from MB (it's cheap) and the cut the length, and mold it around the hose. And you have to make a couple of rectangular cut-outs at the ends of the heat shielding so that you can accommodate the ring clamp at each end of the "S" hose. Best thing is to just pattern it off of the factory hose/shielding that you remove.
I hope that it is not your tandem pump. As I said, take a look in your PS reservoir to see if your fluid level is going down. That's how I determined what my problem was; I probably didn't have to reseal the tandem pump but again decided to do it for proactive maintenance. The only hose I was too much of a wuss to do was the straight hose under the heat shield, along the frame rail. IMHO replacing that hose could well be one of the toughest jobs on an E500. I'd rather remove the cylinder heads and do a full top-end rebuild than replace that hose. I tried and poked around at doing it (I have the hose new) but didn't see any obvious ways to do it, despite GAS-XR and samiam44 saying it's totally possible.
Cheers,
Gerry
Please excuse all my questions, but I understand there are two possible pump manufacturers. Is the small hose the same size regardless.
I was hoping to do this tomorrow, but seeing how I need the gasket and the sealing ring I guess I'm going to have to order the parts.
I sprayed everything down pretty good with brake cleaner.
I was hoping to do this tomorrow, but seeing how I need the gasket and the sealing ring I guess I'm going to have to order the parts.
I sprayed everything down pretty good with brake cleaner.
That's because I looked it up on the EPC and ordered it via parts.com.
You can also get it (along with the gasket and alu washer) via AutohausAZ.com: http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=q0m5qy55cmumci45at5p1efn&partnumber=0069970982
From Dave's site:
Thanks. I ordered everything from Autohausaz except for the hose. I can't remember the name of the place, but there is hose place over by Bright Upholstery that has every type of hose you can imagine. I can buy it by the foot there.
I've got to get used to all the metric stuff.
Just remembered, Portland Valve and Fitting.
I've got to get used to all the metric stuff.
Just remembered, Portland Valve and Fitting.
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I noticed the dealership was running a $129 special at on four wheel alignments, so I decided to take advantage. Since changing the brakes it felt heavy up front.
The car raised quite a stir and had just about all of the mechanics standing around admiring the car for a while. The service writer told me they had not seen a 500E as nice in years and he described the car as immaculate. It's not "immaculate" to me, but they enjoyed having it in the shop. They did a very nice job of washing and vacuuming it too.
The car raised quite a stir and had just about all of the mechanics standing around admiring the car for a while. The service writer told me they had not seen a 500E as nice in years and he described the car as immaculate. It's not "immaculate" to me, but they enjoyed having it in the shop. They did a very nice job of washing and vacuuming it too.
Replaced the distributor caps and rotors today. The ones I took out appeared to be in pretty good condition definitely worth holding on to. No signs of moisture or crud just a light greying of the of the rotor contact. The weather is too crappy to go for a test drive considering the car was just washed. Idled in the garage just fine.
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If I were you I would never keep them. These things (rotors and caps) may look totally nice but in fact they do not work right or efficiently. I had mine absolutely nice and clean but one day car started to miss. I spent quite a bit of time to find an issue. Thanx people on this board who insisted to replace caps and rotors.
Thanks for the advice Roma. I'm a pack rat when it comes to parts. I find it hard to toss anything even if the parts are worn out.
Well, considering the price for parts we pay , yeah we must keep the old ones, lol . Usually, I tear old parts in small pieces when removing them, pretty much all the time so I had no chance to keep anything yet
I ve just recently checked price for E500 W211 valve cover gaskets and was pissed off , it is $30 compare to $90 that we pay for 036 :x Sounds like old MBZ, 036 in particular is much more expensive than the 5+ years old MBZ. However, M113 valve cover gaskets fail at appx. 100 000 (became wet) while M119 gaskets are HD and fail much later .
That was a right move, I figured out that rotors and caps on our cars is like an oil change and should be done pretty often
Following up on my power steering leak. I cleaned the pump with Gerry's miracle juice about four weeks ago and reinstalled the reservoir lid. I removed the lower engine cover and placed a clean piece of cardboard under the pump in the garage. I've driven the car at least ten times and so far the cardboard is clean and so is the pump. I'm thinking it must have been the reservoir lid wasn't tight or something. I'll hang on to the parts I purchased for now.
Since you're doing PM, get a replacement PS lid gasket. Under $10 even from the stealer.
neil</snip></snip>
That looks like a c class
You are a braver man than I...I could not leave my 036 in the hands of the dealer period, even when I "need" to go to the dealer for parts, I never leave my key with anyone. The last time I was at the dealer, I went off on a tech for leaning against my car and told him that if I ever see him leaning on my car again, he's going to eat through a straw for the next month.
About positive it was an E. I could be wrong they look the same to me.
As anyone that met me at the GTG knows I purchased another 500E. It is a 1992 that was originally a 199 car that was repainted 040 by the original owner right after purchase. Here is an old for sale thread about the car. http://www.500eboard.com/forums/sho...(Indianapolis-IN)&highlight=wDBEA36EXNB727308
I purchased the car in Georgia and had it shipped to LA for the GTG. The paint is pretty nice, IMHO, especially for a 22 year old repaint. The car is still in LA awaiting shipping to Oregon. In the mean time Matt Stockwell is storing the car and doing a few maintenance things for me while we wait for pickup. Thanks to captruff for introducing me to Matt. The black car has 70k miles and drives very nicely as Gerry can attest. I was very happy to get the Gerry seal of approval.
First mods have already been purchased. Euro headlights and two piece AMG wheels purchased from captruff. I can't wait to get the car home with the new mods. You can see pics in the for sale thread posted above. I will post new pics after the headlights and wheels are installed. Thanks go out to Drew for taking time to look at the car for me in Georgia.
I was considering keeping both cars, but after many discussions with another member here I have agreed to sell the car to him. The cool thing is that the 1993 will go home to its hometown and will likely be seen by the same mechanic that maintained the car for the PO for many years. The new owner contacted the mechanic who had great memories of the car and confirmed what I already knew, that the car had been well cared for and cherished by the PO, as I know the new owner will continue. I really struggled with selling the car because it has been such a joy to own and made a real 500E fanatic out of me. I will no doubt shed a tear when it is loaded on the truck, but the new car will take its place. Time to say goodbye to the 1993 and welcome the 1992 to the garage.
So, yes it has a color change but it was done to a very high level. I really wanted a low mile black car and this fits the bill. I know some will criticize the car for being a color change and I will never call it a true 040 car, but I am very happy with my decision to purchase the car.
I purchased the car in Georgia and had it shipped to LA for the GTG. The paint is pretty nice, IMHO, especially for a 22 year old repaint. The car is still in LA awaiting shipping to Oregon. In the mean time Matt Stockwell is storing the car and doing a few maintenance things for me while we wait for pickup. Thanks to captruff for introducing me to Matt. The black car has 70k miles and drives very nicely as Gerry can attest. I was very happy to get the Gerry seal of approval.
First mods have already been purchased. Euro headlights and two piece AMG wheels purchased from captruff. I can't wait to get the car home with the new mods. You can see pics in the for sale thread posted above. I will post new pics after the headlights and wheels are installed. Thanks go out to Drew for taking time to look at the car for me in Georgia.
I was considering keeping both cars, but after many discussions with another member here I have agreed to sell the car to him. The cool thing is that the 1993 will go home to its hometown and will likely be seen by the same mechanic that maintained the car for the PO for many years. The new owner contacted the mechanic who had great memories of the car and confirmed what I already knew, that the car had been well cared for and cherished by the PO, as I know the new owner will continue. I really struggled with selling the car because it has been such a joy to own and made a real 500E fanatic out of me. I will no doubt shed a tear when it is loaded on the truck, but the new car will take its place. Time to say goodbye to the 1993 and welcome the 1992 to the garage.
So, yes it has a color change but it was done to a very high level. I really wanted a low mile black car and this fits the bill. I know some will criticize the car for being a color change and I will never call it a true 040 car, but I am very happy with my decision to purchase the car.
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The paint on your 1992 was done to such a high standard that it would be nearly impossible to tell that it was not a factory paint job. Only two giveaways - the 040 lower cladding (not normal from the factory) and the lack of factory orange peel (which some people buff out anyway). This car wears the best 22 year old paint I've ever seen on an 036. The car drives unbelievably good.
Congratulations on a well purchased car. Your mods will really make it shine and it really should need nothing.
Congratulations on a well purchased car. Your mods will really make it shine and it really should need nothing.
Good looking car! Although it's not factory, I really do like the painted lower cladding on these cars.
Will be watching the signature line to see how he notes the color change!
That reminds me, I need to edit mine to show the "RIP" status of my 500....(insert tearful face)
Will be watching the signature line to see how he notes the color change!
That reminds me, I need to edit mine to show the "RIP" status of my 500....(insert tearful face)
Your garage is awesome.
I could use a second lift in mine too... oh, and the car looks hot!!
Wheels and lights totally transform the car. Looks fantastic, Ken!
Your garage is awesome.
Not my garage. Matt's shop in LA.
First on the agenda is to get the car home. It's still sitting in LA awaiting pick up. I had Matt rebuild the PS pump, install the headlights and wheel/tire combo while it was sitting there.
And since Gerry likes it we know the chicks will dig it.
