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FYI Part Numbers for Silver Arrow Brake Components

Hmmm. That is interesting. Usually, the dealer rotors are top-quality units. Was there any COO that you recall on the last set or two of rotors?



Yes, those are the 300x28 standard fronts.



There's a slight chance this was caused by material transfer between pad & rotor, not necessarily that the rotor itself was warped - but it would require measuring runout with a dial gauge to verify.



MB OE pads are known for being very dusty / dirty, which explains what you were seeing.



The only other brand besides Genuine Mercedes that I'd recommend is Zimmerman Coat-Z. Personally, after I had a bad experience with Brembo years ago, I avoid Brembo rotors like the plague.


:3gears:
Dave, my ignorance is showing...what is "COO" in this context?

And I greatly appreciate the piece from Zimm's website on warped discs (or not!). That all makes a ton of sense, though now that I have the car up north for the first time, I do not have anything more than a caliper to measure the rotors' thickness. The bottom line is that when I am firm on the brakes -- not panic stops -- the vibration is beyond anyone would like or find acceptable.

I admit that using standard replacement MB rotors and pads did not give me cause to look for/use a bedding-in procedure. That said, with both sets of new rotors, I was my usually self in braking -- pretty consistent and gentle (I tend to look far down the road for potential trouble), no panic stops, etc. Just didn't happen.

@szvook provided the bedding in for the Porterfields, which I'll follow.

And I greatly appreciate the suggestion for the Zimmerman's -- I had seen them on FCPEuro's site (and Pelican's, I believe) but was unfamiliar with them.

Many thanks, again, Dave.

Bob
 
Dave, my ignorance is showing...what is "COO" in this context?
Ooops! COO = Country Of Origin. I'm curious if MB dealer rotors changed suppliers (generally indicated by a -64 suffix, but may still be a German-made rotor).


And I greatly appreciate the piece from Zimm's website on warped discs (or not!). That all makes a ton of sense, though now that I have the car up north for the first time, I do not have anything more than a caliper to measure the rotors' thickness. The bottom line is that when I am firm on the brakes -- not panic stops -- the vibration is beyond anyone would like or find acceptable.
I've had this issue in the past and it's very frustrating. Especially when the rotors & pads are almost new, and the problem is solved by replacing both (throwing money at the problem).



I admit that using standard replacement MB rotors and pads did not give me cause to look for/use a bedding-in procedure. That said, with both sets of new rotors, I was my usually self in braking -- pretty consistent and gentle (I tend to look far down the road for potential trouble), no panic stops, etc. Just didn't happen.
Yeah, in general you just go easy on the brakes for a few hundred (city) miles. Typically, no fancy procedure is necessary. I do like that the Porterfields feel great from the first stop backing out of the garage. Some other pads (I'm lookin' at you, Akebono!) feel like balsa wood for what seems like an eternity before they start feeling like they'll stop the car.



And I greatly appreciate the suggestion for the Zimmerman's -- I had seen them on FCPEuro's site (and Pelican's, I believe) but was unfamiliar with them.

Many thanks, again, Dave.
Happy to help! Please let us know how you like the Porterfields once they're installed with new rotors.


:blower:
 
Ooops! COO = Country Of Origin. I'm curious if MB dealer rotors changed suppliers (generally indicated by a -64 suffix, but may still be a German-made rotor).

I've had this issue in the past and it's very frustrating. Especially when the rotors & pads are almost new, and the problem is solved by replacing both (throwing money at the problem).

Yeah, in general you just go easy on the brakes for a few hundred (city) miles. Typically, no fancy procedure is necessary. I do like that the Porterfields feel great from the first stop backing out of the garage. Some other pads (I'm lookin' at you, Akebono!) feel like balsa wood for what seems like an eternity before they start feeling like they'll stop the car.

Happy to help! Please let us know how you like the Porterfields once they're installed with new rotors.


:blower:
I should have known COO = Country of Origin based on my experience...the gray matter is the second thing to go... Regardless, I did not see from whence they came when they were installed.

Agreed about throwing $$$ at the problem, but the problem is so bad it has to happen -- cannot tolerate any more.

Will advise on the Porterfields and Zimmermans. Good to get your feelings on the Akebono's, too.

Cheers

Bob
 
@VT Blue I’ve been running front and rear rotors from Zimmermann for my SA brakes with excellent results. Porterfield also sells Zimmermann front and rear rotors for the SA kit.
Great to hear @szvook -- we have alignment with you and Dave so I feel 1,000% more confident moving forward. Thank you for all of your posts (present and past) on this subject as it's all been hugely helpful.

Bob
 
@gsxr , complete dumb*** question, but I noticed that the Zimmerman's at FCP say "Front" and nothing says rear...I use these all the way around/front & rear, correct?

Wait, the rears are smaller -- 278 x 24, so just use the MBs/keep what I have? I realize the fronts do 80% or so of the work, and that's where I feel the vibration...just want to verify.

Thanks!

Bob
 
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@gsxr , complete dumb*** question, but I noticed that the Zimmerman's at FCP say "Front" and nothing says rear...I use these all the way around/front & rear, correct?
Good question - the rear rotors are different! (The rear pads are different too.)

500E rear rotors were p/n 129-423-02-12, which is NLA and supercedes to 124-423-08-12, also NLA from the dealer. Looks like the only aftermarket vendor is Ate. If your rear brakes are ok, I'd leave them alone and just replace the fronts for now, assuming the vibration under braking is felt through the steering wheel.

:detective:
 
Good question - the rear rotors are different! (The rear pads are different too.)

500E rear rotors were p/n 129-423-02-12, which is NLA and supercedes to 124-423-08-12, also NLA from the dealer. Looks like the only aftermarket vendor is Ate. If your rear brakes are ok, I'd leave them alone and just replace the fronts for now, assuming the vibration under braking is felt through the steering wheel.
Will do that. Worst case scenario is that I have to replace the rear rotors later on, though I will be replacing all pads (the Porterfields are on the way, fronts and rears).

Thanks, Dave.

Bob
 
Good question - the rear rotors are different! (The rear pads are different too.)

500E rear rotors were p/n 129-423-02-12, which is NLA and supercedes to 124-423-08-12, also NLA from the dealer. Looks like the only aftermarket vendor is Ate. If your rear brakes are ok, I'd leave them alone and just replace the fronts for now, assuming the vibration under braking is felt through the steering wheel.
FWIW, FCP has 124-423-08-12...at a price. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/me...-rear-400e-c280-e420-c36-amg-mer-124423081264

Mine have <3K miles on them, so I'm not changing them out for now.

Thx!

Bob
 
@VT Blue,
BTW, If you haven’t already you should change the OE rubber brake line hoses to Deerfield Precision Stainless Steel hoses or similar to complete the job. Old hoses can swell inside and contribute to your pad wear and extra brake dust on your wheels.

Deerfieldprecision.com
 
@TerryA thank you soooooo much! It's as if you were reading my mind as I was searching stainless brake hoses earlier this morning. Will look up Deerfield.
1,000 thanks.
Bob
 
@TerryA thank you soooooo much! It's as if you were reading my mind as I was searching stainless brake hoses earlier this morning. Will look up Deerfield.
@VT Blue - the Deerfield website is down. Contact them directly, details are in post #35 and #39, earlier in this same thread:


:bbq:
 
@gsxr, thanks, Dave. I was just going to post that their website was essentially AWOL. Will email, though other forums have said that they have had issues getting products from them...6-month waits. If need be, are there any alternative sources anyone suggests?
 
@gsxr, thanks, Dave. I was just going to post that their website was essentially AWOL. Will email, though other forums have said that they have had issues getting products from them...6-month waits. If need be, are there any alternative sources anyone suggests?
Shouldn’t be a problem. @Rado just purchased a set this last Thursday. See post #39
 
Only the dust seals are sold by Mercedes
Can I have a part number for front and back plz? The ones I find doesn’t mention the silver arrow, or are they all the same size even if calipers are bigger?
The lug bolts may indeed be the 85mm total-length, extended-head style...
I missed this one, do I need longer bolts for new silver arrow brake rotors?
 

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Can I have a part number for front and back plz?
Photos of the Brembo seal kit are here:

However, you do not need to replace the dust seals unless they are torn or otherwise damaged. I've never replaced one, ever.


The ones I find doesn’t mention the silver arrow, or are they all the same size even if calipers are bigger?
The part numbers shown at the link above fit all 334mm Brembo calipers.



I missed this one, do I need longer bolts for new silver arrow brake rotors?
Nope, the different rotors do NOT require different lug bolts.

:bananadeath:
 
However, you do not need to replace the dust seals unless they are torn or otherwise damaged. I've never replaced one, ever.
The seals on the calipers are rock hard, been sitting in this Vegas heat who knows how long, also I’m sending calipers to paint since rears are unpainted.
Taking them to the same place I took my monoblocks, still have no idea how they’ll come out.
Also if not difficult, need your opinion on calipers color.
I’ve decided to do monoblocks in 744 brilliant silver since I’m not sure if I’ll keep them and didn’t want them in the body color. For brakes I was thinking silver color to go neutral.
In case monoblocks come bad, I’ll be ordering evo wheels and then the calipers will be popping up.
Red, body color or silver?
Thanks
 
The seals on the calipers are rock hard, been sitting in this Vegas heat who knows how long, also I’m sending calipers to paint since rears are unpainted.
The seals will feel hard when the pistons are fully retracted. They will flex as the pistons move outward. Again, I wouldn't bother with replacement if they are undamaged, but new ones won't hurt either. If you do replace them, I'm curious how they compare old vs new next to each other on the workbench.


Also if not difficult, need your opinion on calipers color. I’ve decided to do monoblocks in 744 brilliant silver since I’m not sure if I’ll keep them and didn’t want them in the body color. For brakes I was thinking silver color to go neutral. In case monoblocks come bad, I’ll be ordering evo wheels and then the calipers will be popping up. Red, body color or silver?
This is totally personal preference. Silver calipers look nice with silver wheels, and the original 'Silver Arrow' edition R129's had all 4 calipers painted silver. Red makes them more visible, depending on the wheel spoke design, and some newer AMG's have red calipers. Body color, kinda depends on the body color.

:seesaw:
 
I preferred a subtle look for my SA calipers and went for the body color. But I also wanted to have a slight splash of lighter color. So I had Brembo stickers in their traditional red color added on top of the paint, before the clear coat was applied.

IMG_0678.jpeg

I’ve seen AMG cars with silver wheels, silver calipers and black AMG lettering on the calipers. That color combination looked good.
 

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