Porsche BBK Kit for W124 update

[5thscaleracer]

This year we finally got a chance to put the brake to the test at Chuckwalla Raceway and the performance is very impressive in comparison to the other MB brake kit offerings that i have tested.

There is a huge improvement in slow speed and especially high speed track conditions. The pedal effort remains the same but the amount of pedal travel needed to stop the car was significantly less. With the Porsche setup a little bit of brake goes a long way so less time is spent on the braking.

At the track with my old 500E brembo 600SL rear setup with DS1.1 pads, i usually start braking at the 2 cone mark at chuckwalla valley raceway. With the current setup on stock textar pads i bake past the #1 cone, there is so much braking power that you can dive bomb into the turn with tons of speed hit the brakes hard and slow down in time for the apex.

Around town its nice since it's a stock pad being use the brake modulation is very progressive. unlike using a track pad for the street you loose the progressive brake feel it's all or nothing.

For those looking for a brake kit this is a good alternative to the Silver arrow 334mm bricks, your adding a ton of weight to the car with marginal gains. The biggest issue is pad selection is poor.

I supply the brackets front or back
Front $395.00 with caliper mount bolts
Rear $295.00 with caliper mount bolts

The rest are OE parts sourced from parts stores or E-bay for calipers
Front Calipers 996.351.425 & 426
Rear Calipers 996.352.421 & 422

Front Rotors from a SLK350 330x28 must use new LCA, 17" wheels (part # 203.421.13.12)
Rear Rotors from a SL600 300x22 must cut dust sheild to accomodate caliper (solid rotors: 129.423.03.12 X-Drilled: 129.423.05.12)

Brake lines Stoptech
Front Part# 950.35000
Rear Part# 950.35500

All in with stock textar pads
Front Price range $1230-$1400 all depends on caliper acquisition cost from E-bay and if you get them rebuilt or not.
Rear $1200-1380 again depending on caliper cost

So all in low side $2430.00 high side $2780.00 for a complete brake set.
Brembo GT kits are roughly $3200 front and $2800 rear.

The beauty is replacement cost on rotors and pads.
OE brand rotors f/r will set you back about $400.00
Textar pads about $160.00
or
Aftermarket rotors will be about $350.00

The porsche calipers are 2mm narrower than the ATE and 3mm narrower than the 500E alloy Brembo calipers. This might help for those worried about wheel clerance.

install time front and rear about 4hrs including bleeding the system install images on my brothers 16V we ditched the cast iron ATE setup.

Rear:


Front:

 

[gsxr]

This year we finally got a chance to put the brake to the test at Chuckwalla Raceway and the performance is very impressive in comparison to the other MB brake kit offerings that i have tested.

At the track with my old 500E brembo 600SL rear setup with DS1.1 pads, i usually start braking at the 2 cone mark at chuckwalla valley raceway. With the current setup on stock textar pads i bake past the #1 cone, there is so much braking power that you can dive bomb into the turn with tons of speed hit the brakes hard and slow down in time for the apex.

Just curious, what front Brembo brakes did you have on the 500E for comparison... do you mean the stock 300x28 Brembos on early 500E's, with the 600SL 300x22 rears?

Also, when you say DS1.1 pads, that's Ferodo, correct?

Ferodo Racing Official Website - DS1.11 (W/WB)

Ferodoracing is a leading manufacturer in high performance automotive products including braking systems, clutches, spark plugs and brake pads.

www.ferodoracing.com

 

[TimL]

This year we finally got a chance to put the brake to the test at Chuckwalla Raceway and the performance is very impressive in comparison to the other MB brake kit offerings that i have tested.

There is a huge improvement in slow speed and especially high speed track conditions. The pedal effort remains the same but the amount of pedal travel needed to stop the car was significantly less. With the Porsche setup a little bit of brake goes a long way so less time is spent on the braking.

At the track with my old 500E brembo 600SL rear setup with DS1.1 pads, i usually start braking at the 2 cone mark at chuckwalla valley raceway. With the current setup on stock textar pads i bake past the #1 cone, there is so much braking power that you can dive bomb into the turn with tons of speed hit the brakes hard and slow down in time for the apex.

Around town its nice since it's a stock pad being use the brake modulation is very progressive. unlike using a track pad for the street you loose the progressive brake feel it's all or nothing.

For those looking for a brake kit this is a good alternative to the Silver arrow 334mm bricks, your adding a ton of weight to the car with marginal gains. The biggest issue is pad selection is poor.

I supply the brackets front or back
Front $395.00 with caliper mount bolts
Rear $295.00 with caliper mount bolts

The rest are OE parts sourced from parts stores or E-bay for calipers
Front Calipers 996.351.425 & 426
Rear Calipers 996.352.421 & 422

Front Rotors from a SLK350 330x28 must use new LCA, 17" wheels (part # 203.421.13.12)
Rear Rotors from a SL600 300x22 must cut dust sheild to accomodate caliper (solid rotors: 129.423.03.12 X-Drilled: 129.423.05.12)

Brake lines Stoptech
Front Part# 950.35000
Rear Part# 950.35500

All in with stock textar pads
Front Price range $1230-$1400 all depends on caliper acquisition cost from E-bay and if you get them rebuilt or not.
Rear $1200-1380 again depending on caliper cost

So all in low side $2430.00 high side $2780.00 for a complete brake set.
Brembo GT kits are roughly $3200 front and $2800 rear.

The beauty is replacement cost on rotors and pads.
OE brand rotors f/r will set you back about $400.00
Textar pads about $160.00
or
Aftermarket rotors will be about $350.00

The porsche calipers are 2mm narrower than the ATE and 3mm narrower than the 500E alloy Brembo calipers. This might help for those worried about wheel clerance.

install time front and rear about 4hrs including bleeding the system install images on my brothers 16V we ditched the cast iron ATE setup.

Rear:
View attachment 127955

Front:
View attachment 127956

View attachment 127955View attachment 127956

Super cool info!

I'm assuming all of this will need the later style LCAs and a minimum wheel size of 17", correct?

 

[gsxr]

Super cool info!

I'm assuming all of this will need the later style LCAs and a minimum wheel size of 17", correct?

Correct:

Front Rotors from a SLK350 330x28 must use new LCA, 17" wheels (part # 203.421.13.12)​

Rear Rotors from a SL600 300x22 must cut dust sheild to accomodate caliper...​

Overall it's roughly $1k more than the typical SA kit. As noted above, one advantage is wider pad selection, as there isn't much aftermarket for the SA brakes (Porterfield, Akebono, and EBC are the main ones besides OEM).

 

[jhodg5ck]

Not for nothing, but comparing an OE ORganic pad compound to a full track pad isn't even apples and oranges... that Brocali and Steak

Sharp looking setup otherwise!


jono

 

[gsxr]

If I understood correctly, he was comparing mostly-stock brakes with a track pad, vs the Porch brakes with OEM pad, and the Porch/OEM combo was much better. I'm surprised the stock setup didn't do better with the race compound though.

 

[jhodg5ck]

Indeedy do.....I can't read today...guess that microchip in my vaccine didn't have that option checked!

Fwiw, if your track pad is that much of a switch you should try some other pads....our porterfields are easy to read and work :-D

 

[5thscaleracer]

Just curious, what front Brembo brakes did you have on the 500E for comparison... do you mean the stock 300x28 Brembos on early 500E's, with the 600SL 300x22 rears?

Also, when you say DS1.1 pads, that's Ferodo, correct?

Ferodo Racing Official Website - DS1.11 (W/WB)

Ferodoracing is a leading manufacturer in high performance automotive products including braking systems, clutches, spark plugs and brake pads.

www.ferodoracing.com

On one car it was the early aluminum brembo a 300x28 with Sl600 300x22 but the calipers were Bendix with larger pistons 46mm.
On another car (brothers) it was the later 500e cast calipers by ate and the ate 42mm piston sl600 setup.
Ds1.1 is Ferodo ordered directly from UK the USA distributor does not support the DS1 pad.

ds1 pad kind of sucks for cold daily use. The ds2500 is a better all around pad.

 

[5thscaleracer]

Not for nothing, but comparing an OE ORganic pad compound to a full track pad isn't even apples and oranges... that Brocali and Steak

Sharp looking setup otherwise!


jono

Well the Mb caliper setup I used race pads. Ds2500, ds1.1, EBC yellows, porter r4s none of them worked to my liking. It was never progressive.

now I’m running stock Porsche formula textar pads. The purpose of stock pads is I have to benchmark the brake kit with stock. If I need more brake then I fool around with race pads.
At the moment stock is enough

so please excuse the shrimp to tomahawk steak comparison.

btw fluid displacement calculations were done and the 996 C2 calipers work great with the stock master and booster.
The turbo, c4s, GTs model calipers will cause brake bias issues as they are larger. Porsche has a ton of calipers to choose from and they look the same.

 

[mrindiafromuk]

This year we finally got a chance to put the brake to the test at Chuckwalla Raceway and the performance is very impressive in comparison to the other MB brake kit offerings that i have tested.

There is a huge improvement in slow speed and especially high speed track conditions. The pedal effort remains the same but the amount of pedal travel needed to stop the car was significantly less. With the Porsche setup a little bit of brake goes a long way so less time is spent on the braking.

At the track with my old 500E brembo 600SL rear setup with DS1.1 pads, i usually start braking at the 2 cone mark at chuckwalla valley raceway. With the current setup on stock textar pads i bake past the #1 cone, there is so much braking power that you can dive bomb into the turn with tons of speed hit the brakes hard and slow down in time for the apex.

Around town its nice since it's a stock pad being use the brake modulation is very progressive. unlike using a track pad for the street you loose the progressive brake feel it's all or nothing.

For those looking for a brake kit this is a good alternative to the Silver arrow 334mm bricks, your adding a ton of weight to the car with marginal gains. The biggest issue is pad selection is poor.

I supply the brackets front or back
Front $395.00 with caliper mount bolts
Rear $295.00 with caliper mount bolts

The rest are OE parts sourced from parts stores or E-bay for calipers
Front Calipers 996.351.425 & 426
Rear Calipers 996.352.421 & 422

Front Rotors from a SLK350 330x28 must use new LCA, 17" wheels (part # 203.421.13.12)
Rear Rotors from a SL600 300x22 must cut dust sheild to accomodate caliper (solid rotors: 129.423.03.12 X-Drilled: 129.423.05.12)

Brake lines Stoptech
Front Part# 950.35000
Rear Part# 950.35500

All in with stock textar pads
Front Price range $1230-$1400 all depends on caliper acquisition cost from E-bay and if you get them rebuilt or not.
Rear $1200-1380 again depending on caliper cost

So all in low side $2430.00 high side $2780.00 for a complete brake set.
Brembo GT kits are roughly $3200 front and $2800 rear.

The beauty is replacement cost on rotors and pads.
OE brand rotors f/r will set you back about $400.00
Textar pads about $160.00
or
Aftermarket rotors will be about $350.00

The porsche calipers are 2mm narrower than the ATE and 3mm narrower than the 500E alloy Brembo calipers. This might help for those worried about wheel clerance.

install time front and rear about 4hrs including bleeding the system install images on my brothers 16V we ditched the cast iron ATE setup.

Rear:
View attachment 127955

Front:
View attachment 127956

View attachment 127955View attachment 127956

I have been talking to JC on email and I am going to do this upgrade with the Porsche calipers. I will make a video of the installation so it can be of some help to others.

This year we finally got a chance to put the brake to the test at Chuckwalla Raceway and the performance is very impressive in comparison to the other MB brake kit offerings that i have tested.

There is a huge improvement in slow speed and especially high speed track conditions. The pedal effort remains the same but the amount of pedal travel needed to stop the car was significantly less. With the Porsche setup a little bit of brake goes a long way so less time is spent on the braking.

At the track with my old 500E brembo 600SL rear setup with DS1.1 pads, i usually start braking at the 2 cone mark at chuckwalla valley raceway. With the current setup on stock textar pads i bake past the #1 cone, there is so much braking power that you can dive bomb into the turn with tons of speed hit the brakes hard and slow down in time for the apex.

Around town its nice since it's a stock pad being use the brake modulation is very progressive. unlike using a track pad for the street you loose the progressive brake feel it's all or nothing.

For those looking for a brake kit this is a good alternative to the Silver arrow 334mm bricks, your adding a ton of weight to the car with marginal gains. The biggest issue is pad selection is poor.

I supply the brackets front or back
Front $395.00 with caliper mount bolts
Rear $295.00 with caliper mount bolts

The rest are OE parts sourced from parts stores or E-bay for calipers
Front Calipers 996.351.425 & 426
Rear Calipers 996.352.421 & 422

Front Rotors from a SLK350 330x28 must use new LCA, 17" wheels (part # 203.421.13.12)
Rear Rotors from a SL600 300x22 must cut dust sheild to accomodate caliper (solid rotors: 129.423.03.12 X-Drilled: 129.423.05.12)

Brake lines Stoptech
Front Part# 950.35000
Rear Part# 950.35500

All in with stock textar pads
Front Price range $1230-$1400 all depends on caliper acquisition cost from E-bay and if you get them rebuilt or not.
Rear $1200-1380 again depending on caliper cost

So all in low side $2430.00 high side $2780.00 for a complete brake set.
Brembo GT kits are roughly $3200 front and $2800 rear.

The beauty is replacement cost on rotors and pads.
OE brand rotors f/r will set you back about $400.00
Textar pads about $160.00
or
Aftermarket rotors will be about $350.00

The porsche calipers are 2mm narrower than the ATE and 3mm narrower than the 500E alloy Brembo calipers. This might help for those worried about wheel clerance.

install time front and rear about 4hrs including bleeding the system install images on my brothers 16V we ditched the cast iron ATE setup.

Rear:
View attachment 127955

Front:
View attachment 127956

View attachment 127955View attachment 127956

I have decided to go down this route that JC has laid out. He has sent me the parts list and I have sourced all the other parts excluding the BBK bracket for a cost of $1805. This includes the replacement control arms JC recommends. I will be making an installation video to show how it all goes together. I quite likes the idea of having Porsche name on the calipers. It seems a good tribute to the Porsche assembly line.

 

[gsxr]

I have decided to go down this route that JC has laid out. He has sent me the parts list and I have sourced all the other parts excluding the BBK bracket for a cost of $1805. This includes the replacement control arms JC recommends.

What lower control arms (LCA's) does JC recommend? The factory MB LCA's went NLA and all the aftermarket ones are pretty much hot garbage - the ball joints fail in short order.

The only good solution is either grinding your original LCA's a bit for clearance, or sourcing a set of good used late-style factory LCA's and rebuilding them. I would go with the latter option if you can find clean, late LCA's with balljoint boots still intact, and tight balljoints. Re-grease them, install a new OE boot, and new OE bushings and you're set to go.

 

[5thscaleracer]

Use the R129 LCA from Lemforder. I still have the same arms from 2012 and it's been 11 years of 8-10 track days on my 190. Ball joints are still holding up. Can't say much for my shocks as i have swapped coil overs 3 times due to normal wear and tear.

 

[gsxr]

Use the R129 LCA from Lemforder. I still have the same arms from 2012 and it's been 11 years of 8-10 track days on my 190. Ball joints are still holding up. Can't say much for my shocks as i have swapped coil overs 3 times due to normal wear and tear.

Lemforder only sells the early LCA. You can just rebuild the factory original early LCA with new OE/Genuine ball joints and bushings.

Also, 2012 Lemforder early LCA's were still made in Italy, and used OEM bushings - good stuff. A few years later, this changed to made in Taiwan and has non-OEM bushings. I don't know if the Taiwan versions are equally robust or not.

 

[mrindiafromuk]

Lemforder only sells the early LCA. You can just rebuild the factory original early LCA with new OE/Genuine ball joints and bushings.

Also, 2012 Lemforder early LCA's were still made in Italy, and used OEM bushings - good stuff. A few years later, this changed to made in Taiwan and has non-OEM bushings. I don't know if the Taiwan versions are equally robust or not.

I am a bit confused now. Should I even be changing the LCAs? especially if I am keeping the old ones to rebuild?
I had found these from the the part numbers JC sent

Febi-Bilstein 1243303407, 15694 Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly; Front Lower Left With Bushing - Mercedes | A1243303407 W01331603316

Enhance control and stability with the Febi-Bilstein Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly (part number 1243303407). Designed for Mercedes E320, SL500, and other models, this assembly features a front lower left arm with bushing for improved handling.

www.autohausaz.com

Should I not buy these?

 

[Jlaa]

I am a bit confused now. Should I even be changing the LCAs? especially if I am keeping the old ones to rebuild?
I had found these from the the part numbers JC sent

Febi-Bilstein 1243303407, 15694 Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly; Front Lower Left With Bushing - Mercedes | A1243303407 W01331603316

Enhance control and stability with the Febi-Bilstein Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly (part number 1243303407). Designed for Mercedes E320, SL500, and other models, this assembly features a front lower left arm with bushing for improved handling.

www.autohausaz.com

Should I not buy these?

Don't get that Febi-Bilstein stuff. That's not a terribly reputable brand.

 

[gsxr]

I am a bit confused now. Should I even be changing the LCAs? especially if I am keeping the old ones to rebuild?

Normally you would change to the late-style LCA's for additional clearance, but after the OE LCA's went NLA, that created a problem. Now your options are either modifying your early LCA's by grinding them several mm for clearance (not ideal, but will work, along with cutting a hole in the brake dust shield)... OR, rebuilding a pair of good used late LCA's as described previously (preferred method, but requires some effort to locate good donors).

I had found these from the the part numbers JC sent. Should I not buy these?

Febi-Bilstein 1243303407, 15694 Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly; Front Lower Left With Bushing - Mercedes | A1243303407 W01331603316

Enhance control and stability with the Febi-Bilstein Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly (part number 1243303407). Designed for Mercedes E320, SL500, and other models, this assembly features a front lower left arm with bushing for improved handling.

www.autohausaz.com

Correct. DO NOT buy these. People have reported ball joint failures in a few hundred to a few thousand miles. The same applies to ANY aftermarket late LCA's, they are all a gamble / crapshoot.

 

[mrindiafromuk]

Normally you would change to the late-style LCA's for additional clearance, but after the OE LCA's went NLA, that created a problem. Now your options are either modifying your early LCA's by grinding them several mm for clearance (not ideal, but will work, along with cutting a hole in the brake dust shield)... OR, rebuilding a pair of good used late LCA's as described previously (preferred method, but requires some effort to locate good donors).



Correct. DO NOT buy these. People have reported ball joint failures in a few hundred to a few thousand miles. The same applies to ANY aftermarket late LCA's, they are all a gamble / crapshoot.

My 500e is a 1991 German car. Will it be an early LCA?

 

[Jlaa]

My 500e is a 1991 German car. Will it be an early LCA?

What is the VIN? Those with a copy of the EPC can look it up for you ---- and then you can obtain a copy of the EPC as well and start looking up parts ---- which will be VERY VERY handy as you have a Euro car....

 

[mrindiafromuk]

What is the VIN? Those with a copy of the EPC can look it up for you ---- and then you can obtain a copy of the EPC as well and start looking up parts ---- which will be VERY VERY handy as you have a Euro car....

The VIN is WDB1240361B598263

 

[Jlaa]

The VIN is WDB1240361B598263

Early.

 

[mrindiafromuk]

Early.
View attachment 187247

Oh wow. Thanks. I don’t really know what this means for me in regards to my LCAs. Will I need to change them?

 

[Jlaa]

Oh wow. Thanks. I don’t really know what this means for me in regards to my LCAs. Will I need to change them?

If you are trying to fit larger brakes / calipers, then the later LCA setup provides clearance for doing so. However, the later MB brand LCAs are NLA and aftermarket brands are junk. So if you want to fit those brakes, you need to grind down the balljoint area of your early LCAs and cut the shield for clearance.

Or, you can find a used pair of later LCAs and “rebuild” them (replace the rubber bushings) but note that the balljoints on later LCAs cannot be rebuilt/replaced….. so any used later LCAs you find might actually have expired irreplaceable balljoints. Some folks are even hoarding used balljoint-known-good later LCAs for future use…

 

[mrindiafromuk]

If you are trying to fit larger brakes / calipers, then the later LCA setup provides clearance for doing so. However, the later MB brand LCAs are NLA and aftermarket brands are junk. So if you want to fit those brakes, you need to grind down the balljoint area of your early LCAs and cut the shield for clearance. Or, you can find a used pair of later LCAs and “rebuild” them (replace the rubber bushings) but note that the balljoints on later LCAs cannot be rebuilt/replaced….. so any used later LCAs you find might actually have expired irreplaceable balljoints. Some folks are even hoarding used balljoint-known-good later LCAs for future use…

Got it

 

[mrindiafromuk]

Got it

I will look at grinding

 

[mrindiafromuk]

I will look at grinding

Does anyone have the ideal spec for the spacing between the lower ball joint and rotor? I guess it needs to be the same as what is there now? What is the consequence of not getting the right spacing. Just curious.

 

[gsxr]

Febi Front Lower Control Arms (Late style) | Brakes, Suspension and Steering

Re: Febi Lower Control Arms I unclipped the black rubber boot from the new Febi LCA- no surprise I guess that there was very little grease in there. (Just like GSXR's pictures before in terms of grease QTY) I’m going to clean that out and properly pack it with the Redline synthetic / Jono...

www.500eboard.co

500E - 334 mm upgrade | Brakes, Suspension and Steering

Is it possible to upgrade to the 334 mm Silver Arrow brakes with the old control arms?

www.500eboard.co

 

[mrindiafromuk]

Febi Front Lower Control Arms (Late style) | Brakes, Suspension and Steering

Re: Febi Lower Control Arms I unclipped the black rubber boot from the new Febi LCA- no surprise I guess that there was very little grease in there. (Just like GSXR's pictures before in terms of grease QTY) I’m going to clean that out and properly pack it with the Redline synthetic / Jono...

www.500eboard.co

500E - 334 mm upgrade | Brakes, Suspension and Steering

Is it possible to upgrade to the 334 mm Silver Arrow brakes with the old control arms?

www.500eboard.co

Perfect Thanks for the specs . @gxsr I am torn now between creating the gaps on my original LCAs or buying the LEMFOERDER LCA. JC quoted these part numbers as replacements. 124.330.34.07 & 124.330.35.07
What would be your thoughts.

 

[gsxr]

124.330.34.07 and 124.330.35.07 are the part numbers for the late LCA's. Lemforder DOES NOT make these. All the aftermarket late LCA's (Febi, TRW, SWAG, ATM, Hamburg, ÜRO, etc) have very short lifespan on the ball joints. Those are a complete gamble. The Genuine MB late LCA's have been NLA for several years.

Your options are as explained in post #'s 11, 16, and 22 above.

 

[mrindiafromuk]

124.330.34.07 and 124.330.35.07 are the part numbers for the late LCA's. Lemforder DOES NOT make these. All the aftermarket late LCA's (Febi, TRW, SWAG, ATM, Hamburg, ÜRO, etc) have very short lifespan on the ball joints. Those are a complete gamble. The Genuine MB late LCA's have been NLA for several years.

Your options are as explained in post #'s 11, 16, and 22 above.

Ok this has been very helpful. I am committing to grinding in the clearance. I have sourced everything, just need brackets from JC. I will be making a video of my attempt at doing this. You have all been awesome. special thanks @5thscaleracer and @gsxr

I have my appointment with the California Highway Patrol on the 3rd April to verify my VIN. Thats nerving me out a little bit.

 

[T0Pnotch55]

This year we finally got a chance to put the brake to the test at Chuckwalla Raceway and the performance is very impressive in comparison to the other MB brake kit offerings that i have tested.

There is a huge improvement in slow speed and especially high speed track conditions. The pedal effort remains the same but the amount of pedal travel needed to stop the car was significantly less. With the Porsche setup a little bit of brake goes a long way so less time is spent on the braking.

At the track with my old 500E brembo 600SL rear setup with DS1.1 pads, i usually start braking at the 2 cone mark at chuckwalla valley raceway. With the current setup on stock textar pads i bake past the #1 cone, there is so much braking power that you can dive bomb into the turn with tons of speed hit the brakes hard and slow down in time for the apex.

Around town its nice since it's a stock pad being use the brake modulation is very progressive. unlike using a track pad for the street you loose the progressive brake feel it's all or nothing.

For those looking for a brake kit this is a good alternative to the Silver arrow 334mm bricks, your adding a ton of weight to the car with marginal gains. The biggest issue is pad selection is poor.

I supply the brackets front or back
Front $395.00 with caliper mount bolts
Rear $295.00 with caliper mount bolts

The rest are OE parts sourced from parts stores or E-bay for calipers
Front Calipers 996.351.425 & 426
Rear Calipers 996.352.421 & 422

Front Rotors from a SLK350 330x28 must use new LCA, 17" wheels (part # 203.421.13.12)
Rear Rotors from a SL600 300x22 must cut dust sheild to accomodate caliper (solid rotors: 129.423.03.12 X-Drilled: 129.423.05.12)

Brake lines Stoptech
Front Part# 950.35000
Rear Part# 950.35500

All in with stock textar pads
Front Price range $1230-$1400 all depends on caliper acquisition cost from E-bay and if you get them rebuilt or not.
Rear $1200-1380 again depending on caliper cost

So all in low side $2430.00 high side $2780.00 for a complete brake set.
Brembo GT kits are roughly $3200 front and $2800 rear.

The beauty is replacement cost on rotors and pads.
OE brand rotors f/r will set you back about $400.00
Textar pads about $160.00
or
Aftermarket rotors will be about $350.00

The porsche calipers are 2mm narrower than the ATE and 3mm narrower than the 500E alloy Brembo calipers. This might help for those worried about wheel clerance.

install time front and rear about 4hrs including bleeding the system install images on my brothers 16V we ditched the cast iron ATE setup.

Rear:
View attachment 127955

Front:
View attachment 127956

what caliper bracket did you use to mount thecaliper to the spindle?

 

[mrindiafromuk]

what caliper bracket did you use to mount thecaliper to the spindle?

 

[mrindiafromuk]

T0Pnotch55 I did this upgrade. See my thread. The caliper bracket is here Porsche 996 Caliper brake upgrade for my 500E | Brakes, Suspension and Steering

 

[rve]

I'd like to buy a set of brackets, my w124 fades quickly... how do I find them?

 

[T0Pnotch55]

This year we finally got a chance to put the brake to the test at Chuckwalla Raceway and the performance is very impressive in comparison to the other MB brake kit offerings that i have tested.

There is a huge improvement in slow speed and especially high speed track conditions. The pedal effort remains the same but the amount of pedal travel needed to stop the car was significantly less. With the Porsche setup a little bit of brake goes a long way so less time is spent on the braking.

At the track with my old 500E brembo 600SL rear setup with DS1.1 pads, i usually start braking at the 2 cone mark at chuckwalla valley raceway. With the current setup on stock textar pads i bake past the #1 cone, there is so much braking power that you can dive bomb into the turn with tons of speed hit the brakes hard and slow down in time for the apex.

Around town its nice since it's a stock pad being use the brake modulation is very progressive. unlike using a track pad for the street you loose the progressive brake feel it's all or nothing.

For those looking for a brake kit this is a good alternative to the Silver arrow 334mm bricks, your adding a ton of weight to the car with marginal gains. The biggest issue is pad selection is poor.

I supply the brackets front or back
Front $395.00 with caliper mount bolts
Rear $295.00 with caliper mount bolts

The rest are OE parts sourced from parts stores or E-bay for calipers
Front Calipers 996.351.425 & 426
Rear Calipers 996.352.421 & 422

Front Rotors from a SLK350 330x28 must use new LCA, 17" wheels (part # 203.421.13.12)
Rear Rotors from a SL600 300x22 must cut dust sheild to accomodate caliper (solid rotors: 129.423.03.12 X-Drilled: 129.423.05.12)

Brake lines Stoptech
Front Part# 950.35000
Rear Part# 950.35500

All in with stock textar pads
Front Price range $1230-$1400 all depends on caliper acquisition cost from E-bay and if you get them rebuilt or not.
Rear $1200-1380 again depending on caliper cost

So all in low side $2430.00 high side $2780.00 for a complete brake set.
Brembo GT kits are roughly $3200 front and $2800 rear.

The beauty is replacement cost on rotors and pads.
OE brand rotors f/r will set you back about $400.00
Textar pads about $160.00
or
Aftermarket rotors will be about $350.00

The porsche calipers are 2mm narrower than the ATE and 3mm narrower than the 500E alloy Brembo calipers. This might help for those worried about wheel clerance.

install time front and rear about 4hrs including bleeding the system install images on my brothers 16V we ditched the cast iron ATE setup.

Rear:
View attachment 127955

Front:
View attachment 127956

View attachment 127955View attachment 127956

will this kit work on 1995 E320, and if it does where can i buy the brackets?

 

[gsxr]

will this kit work on 1995 E320, and if it does where can i buy the brackets?

It will bolt up to the E320, but is massive overkill with <300hp.

 

[mrindiafromuk]

It will bolt up to the E320, but is massive overkill with <300hp.

Not sure if this will help anyone $1000 obo go 500E . Seems like a good price considering what it cost me all round

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[mrindiafromuk]

It will bolt up to the E320, but is massive overkill with <300hp.

I agree, not worth the money unless u have something big to stop . Try EBC or similar pads first

 

[gsxr]

The "Silver Arrow" setup is usually plenty of stopping power for any 124 with M104.

 

[T0Pnotch55]

Not sure if this will help anyone $1000 obo go 500E . Seems like a good price considering what it cost me all round

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it says that is fro W211 chassis, will this bolt up to W124 ?

 

[T0Pnotch55]

It will bolt up to the E320, but is massive overkill with <300hp.

i know but i want the looks too

 

[gsxr]

it says that is fro W211 chassis, will this bolt up to W124 ?

No. It's NOT a bolt-up to a 124. It can be done, but it isn't easy. Search other forums for info on 211-to-124 AMG brake swaps. Also, a master cylinder change is needed as well to reduce pedal softness, from the mismatch in caliper piston volumes vs stock.

There are other chassis which require fewer mods. But, I don't like some of the mods needed, like cutting up part of the 124 knuckle...

 

[T0Pnotch55]

No. It's NOT a bolt-up to a 124. It can be done, but it isn't easy. Search other forums for info on 211-to-124 AMG brake swaps. Also, a master cylinder change is needed as well to reduce pedal softness, from the mismatch in caliper piston volumes vs stock.

There are other chassis which require fewer mods. But, I don't like some of the mods needed, like cutting up part of the 124 knuckle...

got it, thank you

 

[mrindiafromuk]

I’m

it says that is fro W211 chassis, will this bolt up to W124 ?

i read it came off a 500E , maybe not w124, my bad if I am wrong

 

[mrindiafromuk]

I agree, not worth the money unless u have something big to stop . Try EBC or similar pads first

Hard to find now . My path was Porsche 996 calipers but that’s not a low cost path . But hell yea they stop

 

[5thscaleracer]

will this kit work on 1995 E320, and if it does where can i buy the brackets?

I make the brackets just DM me directly.

 

[5thscaleracer]

I agree, not worth the money unless u have something big to stop . Try EBC or similar pads first

i am not a fan of EBC because their street line products especially the yellow stuff is high friction bite but modulation and heat retention is an issue.

you get the initial grab feel but follow through there is a dip in performance. EBC Yellow there is no dip untill they over heat.

The issue with MB brakes including the big 6pot AMG calipers is pad selection. In the performance aftermarket world pad selection for most MB applciations is very limited. The only company that will make a custom pad is porterfield but their compound is outdated comapred to other companies today.

Ferodo DS2500 is a fantacstic pad for street/track duty good modulation, fantastic cold bite and heat retention is not an issue. If you can find this pad compound for your applciation i would suggest going this route first.

For braking performance it always helps to have a good sticky tire and a huge brake pad compound selection.

 

[HawkerSam]

This year we finally got a chance to put the brake to the test at Chuckwalla Raceway and the performance is very impressive in comparison to the other MB brake kit offerings that i have tested.

There is a huge improvement in slow speed and especially high speed track conditions. The pedal effort remains the same but the amount of pedal travel needed to stop the car was significantly less. With the Porsche setup a little bit of brake goes a long way so less time is spent on the braking.

At the track with my old 500E brembo 600SL rear setup with DS1.1 pads, i usually start braking at the 2 cone mark at chuckwalla valley raceway. With the current setup on stock textar pads i bake past the #1 cone, there is so much braking power that you can dive bomb into the turn with tons of speed hit the brakes hard and slow down in time for the apex.

Around town its nice since it's a stock pad being use the brake modulation is very progressive. unlike using a track pad for the street you loose the progressive brake feel it's all or nothing.

For those looking for a brake kit this is a good alternative to the Silver arrow 334mm bricks, your adding a ton of weight to the car with marginal gains. The biggest issue is pad selection is poor.

I supply the brackets front or back
Front $395.00 with caliper mount bolts
Rear $295.00 with caliper mount bolts

The rest are OE parts sourced from parts stores or E-bay for calipers
Front Calipers 996.351.425 & 426
Rear Calipers 996.352.421 & 422

Front Rotors from a SLK350 330x28 must use new LCA, 17" wheels (part # 203.421.13.12)
Rear Rotors from a SL600 300x22 must cut dust sheild to accomodate caliper (solid rotors: 129.423.03.12 X-Drilled: 129.423.05.12)

Brake lines Stoptech
Front Part# 950.35000
Rear Part# 950.35500

All in with stock textar pads
Front Price range $1230-$1400 all depends on caliper acquisition cost from E-bay and if you get them rebuilt or not.
Rear $1200-1380 again depending on caliper cost

So all in low side $2430.00 high side $2780.00 for a complete brake set.
Brembo GT kits are roughly $3200 front and $2800 rear.

The beauty is replacement cost on rotors and pads.
OE brand rotors f/r will set you back about $400.00
Textar pads about $160.00
or
Aftermarket rotors will be about $350.00

The porsche calipers are 2mm narrower than the ATE and 3mm narrower than the 500E alloy Brembo calipers. This might help for those worried about wheel clerance.

install time front and rear about 4hrs including bleeding the system install images on my brothers 16V we ditched the cast iron ATE setup.

Rear:
View attachment 127955

Front:
View attachment 127956

View attachment 127955View attachment 127956

Great writeup. solid real-world results and nice to see a lighter, cost-effective alternative with better performance and serviceability.