Rear Axle Replacement E320 1994

[jftu105]

First of all, I did a search but could not find a thread to deal with this problem. Therefore, I started a new thread.

When going over a bump too fast or making an U-turn too fast, I can hear a major clunk in the back, from the passenger side. Got under the car and shook the axle, the drive side is firm while the passenger side has play. The differential mounts were replaced a few years back. The differential housing is wet. I might need to refill the oil.

Did some part search, neither FCP or AutohousAZ carries rear axle. Check on eBay, there are many new ones but I am scared of those parts from unknown places. This thing spins at high speed which needs high precision in balance and the CV joint. Off eBay, there are also a few used ones at reasonable prices.

I found a video showing how to remove the axle. The problem I might have is the removal of the axle nut on the hub (see image). The video shows a big impact wrench to do the job. The Milwaukee I got can barely remove the lug nut. It also seems to be a special socket needed, likely a triple square. I have a triple square when I did the head gasket.

What is the part number of the rear axle?

I am a little scare by this job. Can I handle it? Probably will go to the junk yard to practice or remove one there.

Here is the link to the video. The repair shop is in Taiwan and the young technician, with dyed hair, is very skillful. I don't think I need to replace the bearing. I don't have the fancy pullers he uses.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

jftu105

 

[Jlaa]

First of all, I did a search but could not find a thread to deal with this problem. Therefore, I started a new thread.

When going over a bump too fast or making an U-turn too fast, I can hear a major clunk in the back, from the passenger side. Got under the car and shook the axle, the drive side is firm while the passenger side has play. The differential mounts were replaced a few years back. The differential housing is wet. I might need to refill the oil.

Did some part search, neither FCP or AutohousAZ carries rear axle. Check on eBay, there are many new ones but I am scared of those parts from unknown places. This thing spins at high speed which needs high precision in balance and the CV joint. Off eBay, there are also a few used ones at reasonable prices.

I found a video showing how to remove the axle. The problem I might have is the removal of the axle nut on the hub (see image). The video shows a big impact wrench to do the job. The Milwaukee I got can barely remove the lug nut. It also seems to be a special socket needed, likely a triple square. I have a triple square when I did the head gasket.

What is the part number of the rear axle?

I am a little scare by this job. Can I handle it? Probably will go to the junk yard to practice or remove one there.

Here is the link to the video. The repair shop is in Taiwan and the young technician, with dyed hair, is very skillful. I dont think I need to replace the bearing. I dont have the fancy pullers he uses.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

jftu105

View attachment 167674

Thanks for the video. I'm not exactly sure how that puller / pusher tool thing works? Is that air powered? He used it for both removal and re-installation. I see that the video is an ad for his shop in 台中市 city. Maybe worth it to pay him a visit and ask for other videos to be posted of specific jobs?

 

[TerryA]

@jftu105,
If you’re just replacing the axle shaft you do not have to remove the hub. I did this job on my 500E. It was a simple R&R just make sure you use the correct size torx head on your socket and clean out the screw heads so it fits in solid.

PS: You can probably get a decent axle from a junkyard.

 

[jftu105]

@jftu105,
If you’re just replacing the axle shaft you do not have to remove the hub. I did this job on my 500E. It was a simple R&R just make sure you use the correct size torx head on your socket and clean out the screw heads so it fits in solid.

PS: You can probably get a decent axle from a junkyard.

Terry,

Not removing the hub means no need to deal with the axle nut. What a relief! I will go to junkyard to take down two axles to practice. Just bought some real nice allen keys, German brand, made in Czeh. Will try them out.

Thanks.

jftu105

 

[TerryA]

Terry,

Not removing the hub means no need to deal with the axle nut. What a relief! I will go to junkyard to take down two axles to practice. Just bought some real nice allen keys, German brand, made in Czeh. Will try them out.

Thanks.

jftu105

@jftu105,

Those bolts are not allen heads. Read the PM I just sent you.

 

[gsxr]

Not removing the hub means no need to deal with the axle nut. What a relief! I will go to junkyard to take down two axles to practice. Just bought some real nice allen keys, German brand, made in Czeh. Will try them out.

Wait a sec! To R&R the axle... you DO need to remove the axle nut! That is what holds the axle tightly to the hub. IIRC a 30mm socket is required. If your impact doesn't have enough ooomph (what model/rating is your Milwonkee?), a breaker bar with cheater bar should work with the wheel on the ground and parking brake applied.

The first 90 seconds of that video shows most of what you need to know. If you can lower the exhaust slightly, or better yet remove the muffler (on an 036 it's bolted on), there is no need to remove any of the 5 suspension links or move the rear wheel carrier to make room. Most of the extra steps in that video are being shown to replace the WHEEL BEARING, which is a wholebunch more work, and does require special tools.

A puller / pusher tool is not needed to R&R the axle, UNLESS the axle splines are seized inside the hub, which is not common on the 124 chassis. Normally it will tap out of the hub with a hammer, with minimal fuss. If seized... yeah... uh-oh. I had this problem on a W210, click here for details. Clean the splines and apply anti-seize when installing the replacement.

The 6 bolts at the diff are XZN / triple-square. Clean the recesses with a dental pick BEFORE inserting the tool. Use your impact wench to remove these, you may only be able to get it on 1 bolt at a time, rotate the axle as needed. This is much, MUCH faster and easier vs trying to remove by hand.

Part number for the 124.032 without ASR is A1293503810 but it is NLA. The ASR axle is available but is ~$1900 MSRP, ~$1300 at discount dealers for the new/superceded p/n. No need for a new axle, get a good used one with boots intact. On the workbench with axle and CV joints level and centered, twist the joints/axle back and forth. There should be ZERO rotational play. If there's any play, try another used axle. As you already determined, don't buy cheap new aftermarket axles unless you want to repeat this job on a regular basis.

 

[TerryA]

Wait a sec! To R&R the axle... you DO need to remove the axle nut! That is what holds the axle tightly to the hub. IIRC a 30mm socket is required. If your impact doesnt have enough ooomph (what model/rating is your Milwonkee?), a breaker bar with cheater bar should work with the wheel on the ground and parking brake applied.

The first 90 seconds of that video shows most of what you need to know. If you can lower the exhaust slightly, or better yet remove the muffler (on an 036 its bolted on), there is no need to remove any of the 5 suspension links or move the rear wheel carrier to make room. Most of the extra steps in that video are being shown to replace the WHEEL BEARING, which is a wholebunch more work, and does require special tools.

A puller / pusher tool is not needed to R&R the axle, UNLESS the axle splines are seized inside the hub, which is not common on the 124 chassis. Normally it will tap out of the hub with a hammer, with minimal fuss. If seized... yeah... uh-oh. I had this problem on a W210, click here for details. Clean the splines and apply anti-seize when installing the replacement.

The 6 bolts at the diff are XZN / triple-square. Clean the recesses with a dental pick BEFORE inserting the tool. Use your impact wench to remove these, you may only be able to get it on 1 bolt at a time, rotate the axle as needed. This is much, MUCH faster and easier vs trying to remove by hand.

Part number for the 124.032 without ASR is A1293503810 but it is NLA. The ASR axle is available but is ~$1900 MSRP, ~$1300 at discount dealers for the new/superceded p/n. No need for a new axle, get a good used one with boots intact. On the workbench with axle and CV joints level and centered, twist the joints/axle back and forth. There should be ZERO rotational play. If theres any play, try another used axle. As you already determined, dont buy cheap new aftermarket axles unless you want to repeat this job on a regular basis.

Dave,

I did this job back in 2012 with your help but didn’t remember removing the axle nut. I told @jftu105 in a PM it didn’t have to come off. I have since corrected that with him. I remember now renting an impact wrench to R&R that nut. I found the whole job pretty easy at the time.

Anyway, I advised @jftu105 to search the junkyards for a used axle. I think once he dives into the work he will find it pretty easy to do.

lol

 

[jftu105]

Dave,

Thanks again. You are the ChatBGT of Mercedes! Always detailed and wise suggestions. I need to gather tools. My Milwaukee is M18, mid torque impact wrench, 2861-20. Probably the problem is the battery. My battery is the lowly 18V 27Wh M18 Red Lithium. I might need to get a more powerful battery. Torque is proportional to the current and the current is proportional to the power with 18V fixed.

The specs of my M18 states that up to 600 fl-lbf . However, it never feels this powerful.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Dave,

I did this job back in 2012 with your help but didn’t remember removing the axle nut. I told @jftu105 in a PM it didn’t have to come off. I have since corrected that with him. I remember now renting an impact wrench to R&R that nut. I found the whole job pretty easy at the time.

Anyway, I advised @jftu105 to search the junkyards for a used axle. I think once he dives into the work he will find it pretty easy to do.

lol

It is raining today. I need to gather tools, a 30 mm socket, XZN tool, and a powerful M18 battery before I can attempt the job at the junkyard. I can get an used axle from eBay for $85 including shipping. That is pretty good price. However, I need to practice anyway.

Thanks for all the help.

It turns out the XZN, triple square tool, I used for heat gasket bolts is an exact fit for the bolts. Orders have been placed to get a 6Ah Milwaukee M18 battery and a Lisle 30 mm 12 points socket.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Started some initial investigation for replacing the rear axle. Did more checks to determine the condition of the rear axle. The driver side can be moved longitudinally, as with the passenger side but no play when I twisted it hard. On the other hand, the passenger side definitely has some play when I twisted it and just seems to be more loose. Check out the axle nut, which is crimped to keep it from coming loose. Use a punching tool to straighten the nut for removal once my super battery for the impact wrench arrives. The Lisle 30 mm 12 point socket arrived today and it fits. It is such a big impact socket and the price is good, about $16 off Amazon.

Also ordered a genuine MB axle nut off FCP for about $10, on clearance. The OE is $3, same as the Febi. On eBay, a Febi would be $15. FCP does well here.

Next weekend, will take on a junkyard field trip to harvest one or two good rear axles.

My theory of why the passenger side is worn but the driver side is still fine is that I have too many left turns, in particular into the drive way. The passenger side needs to go faster more often. Or, it is just what it is.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Just a typical trait of me to make things more complicated than necessary. I jumped to conclusion too early to determine that it was the bad axle shaft on the passenger side. I could not get the XZN bolts released even with a beefed up Milwaukee impact wrench. The XZN bit started to deform and I did not want to risk any further. Likely, they were locktited in strongly. Heating is needed to release them.

Anyway, I gave up on releasing those XZN bolts myself and wanted to get a professional to release them for me. Talked to the local vintage MB expert at A Better Wrench in Chapel Hill about releasing those bolts. Max, the owner, suggested that the axle shaft rarely went bad. He suggested the multi-link suspension might be at fault. I did check all the links and they are solid. However, I only checked the passenger side. The lesson is always checking both sides.

Well, the little link to the anti-roll bar was broken. A simple problem and I turned it into a major crisis that I could not solve. Now, it is solved. Luckily, I could not release those XZN bolts. I at least fixed this little link two times before. I should stock up some of this link. I had one harvested from junk yard some time ago and it went right in.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

While shopping for this anti-roll bar link, part #1243200289, I realize that FCP does not carry any and AHAZ only has the after market ones. Went on eBay found some Lemforders and an OEM from Loeber Motors, an eBay seller. Anybody has experience with Loeber Motors? Here is the eBay link:

Mercedes MERCEDES-BENZ OEM 84-93 190E Stabilizer Sway Bar-Rear-Link 1243200289 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mercedes MERCEDES-BENZ OEM 84-93 190E Stabilizer Sway Bar-Rear-Link 1243200289 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Thanks.

jftu105

 

[Jlaa]

While shopping for this anti-roll bar link, part #1243200289, I realize that FCP does not carry any and AHAZ only has the after market ones. Went on eBay found some Lemforders and an OEM from Loeber Motors, an eBay seller. Anybody has experience with Loeber Motors? Here is the eBay link:

Mercedes MERCEDES-BENZ OEM 84-93 190E Stabilizer Sway Bar-Rear-Link 1243200289 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mercedes MERCEDES-BENZ OEM 84-93 190E Stabilizer Sway Bar-Rear-Link 1243200289 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Thanks.

jftu105

Loeber is a big time auto dealership right outside Chicago. If I recall correctly, I bought my w202 c280 from them in 1999. Is the ebay account the same Loeber? Or, is it an imposter?

 

[gsxr]

$12 for OE/Genuine from Naperville, free shipping on $100+ orders...

1984-2011 Mercedes-Benz Stabilizer Link 124-320-02-89 | MB OEM Parts

1984-2011 Mercedes-Benz part # 124-320-02-89 - Stabilizer Link

www.mboemparts.com

 

[jftu105]

Ordered two links plus a few other things to qualify for free shipping from MBoemparts.com, Naperville. Thanks for the link and the promo code.

Just wonder why sudden a flurry of components failures of my cars. But they were all caused by little parts, spark plugs, sway bar link, air pump pulley, fuel tank cap gasket (causing gasoline smell near it and poor fuel economy), strut mount loose nut, form debris over rear speakers, ABS speed sensor, center mirror, AC leak, battery, ignition lock cylinder, lower control arm, tie rod boot, oil pressure sensor, .... The list goes on for this year, after quite trouble free for the previous two years. If not self maintained, it is hard to afford the repair cost.

Otherwise, the cars are as good as they can be.

jftu105