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Rearward camshaft end plugs/freeze plugs falling out/loose behind valve cover!

handyandy46

Member
Member
Hey all. Long post ahead, but I promise that I get to the point.

I’ve been struggling wrenching on my 119.970 M119. It’s an 8/91 build w140 (please don’t ban me) After curing my startup rattle by updating the valve in the oil filter housing, I focused my attention towards a ticking noise I had been hearing at hot idle.

I pulled the cam covers and inspected what I could see of the guides. Looked good. Pinned cams. Within spec for chain stretch. Replaced top most guides anyways. Etc.

But when I was feeling behind the back of the heads by the firewall, I found a loose cap? plug? freeze plug? not exactly sure what the term is. You can see it in the attached photos, deformed from likely rolling against the cam. I have a photo of it compared to the new ones I ordered. It came off of the camshaft itself, apparently its a filler plug that, if it falls out, causes the cam it fell out of to lose oil pressure. 3/4 total had fallen out and were resting within the valve cover. I found the new parts and want to install, but the only good way to access the back of the cams are to remove them (with engine in the car). So I started following the FSM, I got to the part where I needed to turn the cams with the unobtanium baum 26.5mmx27.5mm wrench (p/n BM-119-0001) that I don’t have, and progress ground to a halt. This was last weekend.

I figured I would consult the experts at this point. Has anyone ever run into this issue, these plugs falling out? How did you take care of it? Ideally I just need to find something to turn the cams with without mangling them, and slack the chain and remove the cams one by one. But after that, what’s the right way to install new plugs? I managed to redneck install one new one with a pry bar and a mirror, but it is not pressed in far and I fear it will come out again. You can see the missing plug in one pic from my endoscope, and another with the cap I redneck installed.

If you have read this far, I am very grateful. I love this car and am excited to get it back on 4 wheels again so I can resume chasing my front end shimmy.IMG_9831.jpeg IMG_9837-1.jpeg IMG_9836.jpeg IMG_9833.jpeg IMG_9834.jpeg
 
I got to the part where I needed to turn the cams with the unobtanium baum 26.5mmx27.5mm wrench (p/n BM-119-0001) that I don’t have, and progress ground to a halt. This was last weekend.

Ideally I just need to find something to turn the cams with without mangling them, and slack the chain and remove the cams one by one.
I used this method on my M119.982 - obv use sacrificial M7 bolts (on my engine they are single use stretch bolts so I used the old ones but I think yours can be reused - see 2nd image below.

1774784520946.png

1774784443674.png


I hope this helps.
 
@R129 UK - where is your screenshot taken from, with the cam sprocket bolt warning? This almost looks like something I may have written, but I can't find it on 500Eboard. The latter part is incorrect, you cannot replace the early T30/35 bolts with the later T40. They do not fit. I tried. Doesn't work.

:banana1:
 
@R129 UK - where is your screenshot taken from, with the cam sprocket bolt warning? This almost looks like something I may have written, but I can't find it on 500Eboard. The latter part is incorrect, you cannot replace the early T30/35 bolts with the later T40. They do not fit. I tried. Doesn't work.

:banana1:
It was indeed your own words but from BW and you closed the loop and corrected the error about not using the later T40 bolts on an earlier car:

 
Also: any open-end wench that fits on the cam hex flats will be fine to rotate the cam. The factory tool (119-589-00-01-00) may still be available for ~$50 or so.



View attachment 234681
Thank you for this link. It’s funny that they call it a screwdriver. I’m going to attempt the pry bar/bolt technique but it is good to know this exists too.
 
I used this method on my M119.982 - obv use sacrificial M7 bolts (on my engine they are single use stretch bolts so I used the old ones but I think yours can be reused - see 2nd image below.

View attachment 234664

View attachment 234663


I hope this helps.
Thank you! This is perfect!
It was indeed your own words but from BW and you closed the loop and corrected the error about not using the later T40 bolts on an earlier car:


I used this method on my M119.982 - obv use sacrificial M7 bolts (on my engine they are single use stretch bolts so I used the old ones but I think yours can be reused - see 2nd image below.

View attachment 234664

View attachment 234663


I hope this helps.
Also, did you get the chain off before you rotated it? And did you remove the sprocket with the chain still over it? I have the tensioner slackened but its still pretty tight.
 
Also, did you get the chain off before you rotated it? And did you remove the sprocket with the chain still over it? I have the tensioner slackened but its still pretty tight.
Yes, the chain and sprocket is off and the excess chain is down below the intake cam, from memory (I can't exactly remember) there is enough slack to fully remove the chain from a sprocket with the tensioner removed:

1774811227758.png

This post might help:

 
Last edited:
Yes, the chain and sprocket is off and the excess chain is down below the intake cam, from memory (I can't exactly remember) there is enough slack to fully remove the chain from a sprocket with the tensioner removed:

View attachment 234694

This post might help:

I got 2 of the cams removed and the new plugs tapped into place. I ordered the wrench just to keep things simple. Upon installing all the cams, I just want to install them flat and then rotate them into place once the caps are torqued down?
 

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