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Spark Plug wire routing

Oldcar

E500E Enthusiast
Member
Wire Routing

Why not Number cylinders on valve cover like ferrari has done, that's what I did.

Maybe use your favorite color may I suggest a stencil in black?
Then link the caps to the numbers..at least the caps are numbered for left and right with the correct firing order.

.

.
 
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Visual aids:
Hey Y'all, newbie here. I made a rookie mistake of removing all of the spark plug wires at once and thought I'd be able to place them back correctly. My question is, in the picture you shared of the coils the one on the left side that I placed the green square on, does it go to the passenger side cap or the drivers side. Any info is highly appreciated. TIA!
 

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Hey Y'all, newbie here. I made a rookie mistake of removing all of the spark plug wires at once and thought I'd be able to place them back correctly. My question is, in the picture you shared of the coils the one on the left side that I placed the green square on, does it go to the passenger side cap or the drivers side. Any info is highly appreciated. TIA!
The coil in the green square goes to the passenger side. The photos in post #3 should help with the rest of the routing.

Also, as Jon noted in post #4, the plastic "X-tray" has numbers stamped on the bottom of each channel which specify the order of each wire, top to bottom. When routed correctly, it should look like the photos in post #3 above.

Welcome to the forum!

:welcome4:
 
Can m119 lh handle a set of home made non resistor plug wires using a resistor plug like a ngk bk5re?

Also I'm using bk5re on 95 m119 5.0 with factory wires and it seems to run well...should I change to bk5e
 
Can m119 lh handle a set of home made non resistor plug wires using a resistor plug like a ngk bk5re?
Factory plug wires are non-resistor. There's only a 2k resistor in the plug boot. The system is designed for max 2k resistance for the wire + plug assembly.



Also I'm using bk5re on 95 m119 5.0 with factory wires and it seems to run well...should I change to bk5e
Yup, you should be using non-resistor.


1751845424255.png
 
Ok ....if we bypass mercedes and make our own wires we will be 3k over in resistance specks with r plug and not compatible with the ezl requirement.

What if we go 0 resistor wires and plug set up without mbz boots we will be at 0 resistances....and would this cause harm or increase performance?
 
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You're just complicating things and making work for yourself. There's no increase in performance to be found anywhere in the ignition system. Just leave everything stock. If you need wires, use these.

:shocking:
 
Used to make custom lengths with solid racing wire, inexpensive and in a way satisfying. Had big performance increase over stock with older sports cars, maybe N/A with 92 m119?
Might try it with mbz boot equivalent for some spare wires keeping 2k ohm specs acurate thanks to you!👍
 
The M119 ignition is light years advanced from any old distributor systems. Trust me, you are wasting your time messing with it. The only power gains would be from advanced timing, but the timing maps are fixed inside the EZL program and not adjustable. And, the stock wiring is already solid core, zero resistance.

:stickpoke:
 
The M119 ignition is light years advanced from any old distributor systems. Trust me, you are wasting your time messing with it. The only power gains would be from advanced timing, but the timing maps are fixed inside the EZL program and not adjustable. And, the stock wiring is already solid core, zero resistance.

:stickpoke:

I believe we agree :
1. no performance gain
2. mbz wires are solid with 0 res.
3. Ezl requires 2k res.
4. Beru wires and non resistor plugs highly reccomended.
 
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Your wire set up looks so perfect (thought you made it yourself)

What brand of wires are they?
I actually did make those red wires myself... it was an insane amount of work, and $$$. The main reason was because I wasn't happy about the lengths of the factory set and wanted to tweak them slightly.

Later, I learned the Beru wire kit (see link in post #10 above) has nearly perfect wire lengths. Not sure I'd ever make another set. I also had to borrow the special tool from a generous forum member, dunno if that will be an option in the future.

:klink:
 
I actually did make those red wires myself... it was an insane amount of work, and $$$. The main reason was because I wasn't happy about the lengths of the factory set and wanted to tweak them slightly.

Later, I learned the Beru wire kit (see link in post #10 above) has nearly perfect wire lengths. Not sure I'd ever make another set. I also had to borrow the special tool from a generous forum member, dunno if that will be an option in the future.

Wow ...special tool?
I realy like the colour it reminds me of a set I made for a ferrari with accel solid wire.

Maybe your pics made me think of making another set....but I think I'll just use old solid mercedes wires I have to test and replace individually for tuning purposes. Hate to buy a new set as mbz wires rarely go bad...just the boot connections correct? Already had to buy and fix one boot conector.
 
Yes, the wires don't often fail, but some people have reported failed wires that arc from the wire to ground (block/head). Usually it's the plug boot that fails with high resistance (like 5k to 20k or beyond). The boots are so expensive to buy separately, it's way cheaper to get the complete Beru set. The ends alone cost more than the complete new Beru wire set.

:spend:
 
Yes, the wires don't often fail, but some people have reported failed wires that arc from the wire to ground (block/head). Usually it's the plug boot that fails with high resistance (like 5k to 20k or beyond). The boots are so expensive to buy separately, it's way cheaper to get the complete Beru set. The ends alone cost more than the complete new Beru wire set.

:spend:

Are wires in pic solid accel?

Just checked it was the orange plastic bosch spark plug connector I bought from autohaus az....think I broke the original black one pulling too hard on it....which I needed to replace. I havnt replaced a boot yet but one has a small
tear near the top of it ...
could this cause resistance?
 
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Yes, the wires don't often fail, but some people have reported failed wires that arc from the wire to ground (block/head). Usually it's the plug boot that fails with high resistance (like 5k to 20k or beyond). The boots are so expensive to buy separately, it's way cheaper to get the complete Beru set. The ends alone cost more than the complete new Beru wire set.

:spend:
I usually unscrew the boot from the plug wire and test for 2k resistance every plug change. Last week when I tried to unscrew one of the wires, the brass fitting was stuck in the boot and the wire pulled out. Luckily I still had my plug wire tool and some brass fittings from 25 years ago. I also had a spare used boot. Now to unscrew the old brass fitting out of it will be a challenge. I may need an excuse to buy a new tool--maybe extra-long needle-nose pliers.
 

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You're just complicating things and making work for yourself. There's no increase in performance to be found anywhere in the ignition system. Just leave everything stock. If you need wires, use these.

:shocking:

Any comments on karlyn wires...I used them on m119 previously suposed to be solid copper?
 
Are the dealer boots Beru or Bosch?
The original 90° metal boots were made by both Bosch and Beru originally, but IIRC these are both NLA. There are cheap aftermarket metal boots which should be avoided - and, I believe some/all of these do not accept the threaded metal inserts like OE.

Today if you order from the dealer you'll receive the Bosch orange plastic type boot shown in your links.



Is there any difference between FCP Euro and the dealer, other than $9?
Probably the same thing. The price is pretty steep, usually you can harvest a bunch from a junkyard and test them to see which are good.

Anecdotally, I found more orange plastic boots failed (high resistance) than metal boots. I think Klink experienced the opposite, so it might be random.


:spend:
 
@emerydc8,
Why buy just the boots? Unless you need only one or two. Parts Geek sells a complete set of Beru wires for $215.00.

8 of the Bosch receptors is $225.00
 
@emerydc8,
Why buy just the boots? Unless you need only one or two. Parts Geek sells a complete set of Beru wires for $215.00.

8 of the Bosch receptors is $225.00
I had an idle stumble and when I checked the boots I discovered that I had used JB Weld a few years ago to repair the plastic tip on one. So I replaced it with a spare and sure enough the stumble has not returned. Maybe the JB Weld has some metallic properties that caused it to arc. In any case, this is why it's good to have a spare on hand.
 

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Karlyn are 168 dollars for the full set on amazon but maybe not as good as beru so ?
Karlyn is cheaper because they are NOT as good. The extra $60 is absolutely worth it. Karlyn is not OEM, the wires and boots are both not OEM. The Beru kit is all OEM components made in Germany, assembled in France. If you buy parts for your W124 based on price, you will always be disappointed.

:mushroom1:
 
Karlyn is cheaper because they are NOT as good. The extra $60 is absolutely worth it. Karlyn is not OEM, the wires and boots are both not OEM. The Beru kit is all OEM components made in Germany, assembled in France. If you buy parts for your W124 based on price, you will always be disappointed.

:mushroom1:

I knew you would have some wisdom to share !

It's probably a sin but along with old Karlyn wires I'm running a Chinese cmp sensor. Orig mbz wires did not appear to be copper?

Should probably switch out to beru wires when I install new beru dealer plugs to be kosher
 
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