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Still running too hot
- Thread starter Jelmer
- Start date
JB, we're still on this?
. If all is well with the cooling system no matter which CH you install you should NOT reach or pass that wretched horizontal line - which is??? 100c!!
. After all that's the whole idea of a CH. I've tried all of them and they are pretty accurate in what JF claims.
Bing
. If all is well with the cooling system no matter which CH you install you should NOT reach or pass that wretched horizontal line - which is??? 100c!!. After all that's the whole idea of a CH. I've tried all of them and they are pretty accurate in what JF claims.Bing
No, Bing, we're not still on that topic. I was just yanking your chain, hence the use of smilies.
What I *DIDN'T* believe, though, was that my dash-gauge 100C was really 100C. Now that that's been confirmed, I know I don't have to look there anymore. It's now waterpump, T-Stat or viscous fan.
What I *DIDN'T* believe, though, was that my dash-gauge 100C was really 100C. Now that that's been confirmed, I know I don't have to look there anymore. It's now waterpump, T-Stat or viscous fan.
FYI. In high ambient temps, the electric fans alone are not enough to keep the engine below 100C. I've tested this on my personal car... with a dead fan clutch, in 100F ambients with the AC on, the coolant temp hangs around 105C and the electric fans are unable to bring that down to 95C, regardless of vehicle speed (no, the airflow at 75mph is not enough). With a good fan clutch it stays closer to 95C (just below the line) in the same conditions.
Jelmer, I forget, did you already confirm the fan clutch is roaring when the engine is hot in high ambient temps?
Jelmer, I forget, did you already confirm the fan clutch is roaring when the engine is hot in high ambient temps?
Yes, I've noticed that, too. In high ambient temps it seems they can keep the temperature steady, or even make it drop slightly, but only while revving the engine every-now-and-then. Oddly enough.
My fan clutch is completely bonkers. It DOES engage, but way too late (slightly below the now verified 100C) and releases very quickly after that (except in idle, then it'll kick in nice and stay on). I've not had it engaged beyond ~3k rpm. In less than three weeks I'm going to rip that junk off of the car. Can't be bothered anymore with it.
Oh, weirdest thing is that having the blower at max heat and max blast seems to work better than aux fans and visco fan. How about that.
My fan clutch is completely bonkers. It DOES engage, but way too late (slightly below the now verified 100C) and releases very quickly after that (except in idle, then it'll kick in nice and stay on). I've not had it engaged beyond ~3k rpm. In less than three weeks I'm going to rip that junk off of the car. Can't be bothered anymore with it.
Oh, weirdest thing is that having the blower at max heat and max blast seems to work better than aux fans and visco fan. How about that.
It seems to indicate that your heater core is cooling your coolant better than the radiator.
That usually only works temporarily... in the short term, it will drop the gauge noticeably, but after 5-10 mins it will go back up and stay there. It can help with an extreme overheating situation though (i.e., at the red zone).
Jelmer: I was going to check on my clutch's functionality the other weekend per your request, but didn't get around to it yet, sorry. I believe my e500 felt a disturbance in the DIY repair force, got freaked out that I might decide to try to fix something, and then decided to behave.
I've been driving through outside temps ranging mid 70s to upper 80s the past couple weeks, and despite all the mix of freeway and street, temps on the gauge never exceeded 100C (unless I parked, turned off the car, walked away for 20 minutes, then came back.. but that's normal and temps came right down as the coolant circulated).
So for now, my past observations appear to be inconsistent with current operation, in favor of good behavior. Yay! \o/
I've been driving through outside temps ranging mid 70s to upper 80s the past couple weeks, and despite all the mix of freeway and street, temps on the gauge never exceeded 100C (unless I parked, turned off the car, walked away for 20 minutes, then came back.. but that's normal and temps came right down as the coolant circulated).
So for now, my past observations appear to be inconsistent with current operation, in favor of good behavior. Yay! \o/
I came across this letter in the September/October 1998 issue of the STAR, the magazine of Mercedes-Benz Club of America:
Q: I'm at my wit's end. My 1994 E500 overheats in ambient temperatures over 80F with the air-conditioning on. If I turn off the air-conditioning and get some clear air, it cools down. My dealer replaced the thermostat, fan assembly, and radiator, and I switched to Red Line synthetic oil and Water Wetter, all to no avail. The MBNA zone service rep drove the car and told me it was normal for the temperature to rise above 100C, but other Mercedes-Benz cars I have owned would stay at around 88C. I recently had a larger radiator and an oil cooler installed with no effect. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
A: The MBNA rep is right. The normal operating temperature of your car is 100C. My own car runs at about the 100C line whether the air-conditioning is on or not and regardless of speed or mountain roads. Higher operating temperatures are all part of the ongoing effort to produce more efficient engines. The old days of engines that chugged along at 80C are gone.
-- Frank King, Technical Editor
Q: I'm at my wit's end. My 1994 E500 overheats in ambient temperatures over 80F with the air-conditioning on. If I turn off the air-conditioning and get some clear air, it cools down. My dealer replaced the thermostat, fan assembly, and radiator, and I switched to Red Line synthetic oil and Water Wetter, all to no avail. The MBNA zone service rep drove the car and told me it was normal for the temperature to rise above 100C, but other Mercedes-Benz cars I have owned would stay at around 88C. I recently had a larger radiator and an oil cooler installed with no effect. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
A: The MBNA rep is right. The normal operating temperature of your car is 100C. My own car runs at about the 100C line whether the air-conditioning is on or not and regardless of speed or mountain roads. Higher operating temperatures are all part of the ongoing effort to produce more efficient engines. The old days of engines that chugged along at 80C are gone.
-- Frank King, Technical Editor
That's a lazy answer, and I don't agree. Maybe in hot climates or newer cars, yes, but not with our 500's in average climates (i.e., temps below 35C).
First of all, I notice a difference in responsiveness and power when my engine is (was
) hot. There's also a reason all the plastics under the hood get brittle relatively quick: it's simply too hot. Every time I got >100C, I could smell a plastic/rubber smell. I doubt that does the system any good ...
Then there's the whole fancy ignition retarding to reduce knocking. That's hardly optimal.
There are still things people skip, though:
Water pump, viscous fan brand, and especially cleaning the A/C radiator is someone most people neglect doing and can change a lot.
All in all, I'm pretty sure our cars had a cooler head when they rolled out of the factory.
First of all, I notice a difference in responsiveness and power when my engine is (was
) hot. There's also a reason all the plastics under the hood get brittle relatively quick: it's simply too hot. Every time I got >100C, I could smell a plastic/rubber smell. I doubt that does the system any good ...Then there's the whole fancy ignition retarding to reduce knocking. That's hardly optimal.
There are still things people skip, though:
Water pump, viscous fan brand, and especially cleaning the A/C radiator is someone most people neglect doing and can change a lot.
All in all, I'm pretty sure our cars had a cooler head when they rolled out of the factory.
i dont know why the german people didnt meantion the temp on that horizontal line
hi,is it possible to fix m120 11 blades fan to m119? any one try it?
This is very true for most modern engines as a hotter engine needs less fuel, for instance on the rather new BMW M5 V8 Biturbo engine thats part of the concept (they claim it of course!).
However for a M119 it is not. I remember often Bernards saying as he claimed IIRC that the old waterpumps were better from the M119 (dunno which) and properly kept the engine at around 85-90°C
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