Throttle linkage

[pablo2696]

Hi all,

I was checking my 93 500 throttle linkage today because I have a code related to it and the ASR light is on and I found two FSM adjustment procedures and I am not sure which one to use.

One says "ENGINE 119.97 except CODE (471a) acceleration slip regulator (ASR)" and the other says "ENGINE 119.97 with CODE (471a) Acceleration slip regulator (ASR)".

Thanks for the help!

 

[gerryvz]

You want the second procedure (WITH ASR) for the 500E/E500. The other procedure is for 400E/E420 cars, some of which did not have ASR. But ALL E500E models had it, so the procedure with ASR is what you want to use.

 

[pablo2696]

Hello Gerry!

After 2 years of having the ASR light on , I finally adjusted the throttle linkage. In these two years, I´ve replaced multiple parts, including the ASR accelerator pedal sensor, NSS, vacuum lines, hoses, elbows, and others. It is important to mention that the ASR light appeared after I replaced the accelerator cable and did not adjust the throttle linkage.

I´ve also checked the wiring harness of my ETA and it is in good condition because it is a replacement one. The car is not in limp home mode but the light is still on. Will the light go away eventually (if everything is working properly), or do I have to clear all code?

I just have a couple questions about the procedure:

Step 3: The crack lever has a minor gap with the CTP stop of the ETA (please see pic. below). Is this fine or there should not be a gap no matter how small it is? If it needs to be adjusted, I think I have to make the connecting rod that is attached from the throttle linkage to to the ETA a little bit longer. Is this true?



Step 5.1: The tips at the crank lever (8) and lever (7) were not positioned exactly opposite when control pressure bowden cable is attached. I had to adjust the length of the connecting rod (2) to fix this. Now (8) and (7) are properly adjusted (please see pic below).




Step 7: The crank lever (1) was not resting against WOT stop of the ETA. I had adjust the adjusting nut (29) to fix this. It is now as it should be.

Step 8: Driver spring (26) at Bowden cable doesn´t have any play so I did not altered the position of the adjusting bolt at the accelerator pedal (32). My question here is how tight does the spring has to be?

Inspection specifications of throttle control:

-Lenght of connecting rod (LHS): Before starting with the steps I adjusted the length of the connecting rod (LHS) to the indicated specifications of 134mm (13.4 CM). (see pic below).



However, this was the main reason why during Step 5.1 the tips (7) and (8) were not aligned. I then adjusted the length of the connecting rod to make sure the tips were aligned and it now measures 1CM more than what the specifications say it should. Is this fine?

I don´t know why adjusting the throttle linkage has been so difficult for me (I might need a "for dummies" tutorial ) but thank you all for the help!

 

[gsxr]

Step 3: The lever needs to be resting against the stop in the idle position. Adjust whatever is necessary to make this happen.

Step 5.1: The arrow tips are only for the transmission shifting, and will be unrelated to throttle control. You can adjust the trans shift point to personal preference, note that a small change (few mm length change at the connecting rod) will make a significant change in part-throttle shift RPM.

Step 8: Adjust so the spring is not loose, but when you pull on the end of the bracket with your fingers, there is a few mm of movement. This ensures the cable is not pulling *at all* on the linkages, in the idle position.

The connecting rod lengths are likely recommend starting points, to be adjusted as needed on each particular engine. Again, the arrow tips do not affect ETA control, only transmission shift point.

 

[pablo2696]

T

Step 3: The lever needs to be resting against the stop in the idle position. Adjust whatever is necessary to make this happen.

Step 5.1: The arrow tips are only for the transmission shifting, and will be unrelated to throttle control. You can adjust the trans shift point to personal preference, note that a small change (few mm length change at the connecting rod) will make a significant change in part-throttle shift RPM.

Step 8: Adjust so the spring is not loose, but when you pull on the end of the bracket with your fingers, there is a few mm of movement. This ensures the cable is not pulling *at all* on the linkages, in the idle position.

The connecting rod lengths are likely recommend starting points, to be adjusted as needed on each particular engine. Again, the arrow tips do not affect ETA control, only transmission shift point.

Thank you for your inputs! I´ll do the adjustments and will report the results.

 

[pablo2696]

Step 3: The lever needs to be resting against the stop in the idle position. Adjust whatever is necessary to make this happen.

Step 5.1: The arrow tips are only for the transmission shifting, and will be unrelated to throttle control. You can adjust the trans shift point to personal preference, note that a small change (few mm length change at the connecting rod) will make a significant change in part-throttle shift RPM.

Step 8: Adjust so the spring is not loose, but when you pull on the end of the bracket with your fingers, there is a few mm of movement. This ensures the cable is not pulling *at all* on the linkages, in the idle position.

The connecting rod lengths are likely recommend starting points, to be adjusted as needed on each particular engine. Again, the arrow tips do not affect ETA control, only transmission shift point.

Just adjusted the linkage as it should be, drove the car for about 10 minutes in fluid traffic with speeds of no more than 60kph (around 35 mph) and the light is still on.

Should the light reset itself after driving more time or do I have to clear it with a scanner (assuming everything else is OK)?


First and second gear feel sluggish if I floor it (as it has always felt) and the shift from 1st to 2nd its hard but this can be adjusted with the connecting rod lenght right?

 

[gsxr]

Ideally you check/clear the code with a hand-held blinker box, or a digital scanner if you have SDS available. The light may not reset by itself. You could try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes but I'm not sure if that will work either.

The rod length adjustment will change shift RPM's, not shift firmness.

Shift firmness is based on the vacuum signal. Hard shift = low vacuum. Make sure the vac line from intake manifold to transmission is connected and that the modulator isn't leaking. If full-throttle shifts are normal you can try adjusting the modulator softer, as long as there is zero flaring at full or part throttle. If you get any flaring, adjust it firmer until the flaring is eliminated. If you are not able to do WOT runs (need to get into 3rd gear, ~70mph) that will make adjustment more difficult.

 

[pablo2696]

Thanks for your answer Dave. I´ll go to my mechanic to clear the codes.

It is important to mention a couple of points:

1- As per the post below, my ETA is from a M104 engine and it has a green label. However, all the times my mechanic has checked for codes (last time was may 2021), there are non-related to the ETA. Should I switch to the appropriate M119 ETA? I read that the white label (my ETA has a green one) indicades ASR... is this true? If so... my ETA is not ASR

Holy CRAP! That's the wrong ETA! Someone installed an ETA from a 1992-93 300SE/SEL with M104 six-cylinder engine (which happens to use LH injection, and has the same connector as your 93 500E). I didn't realize the bolt pattern was the same - unless they drilled new holes in the manifold to make it work.

You should replace the ETA with the correct M119 unit. What you have on there now is smaller diameter and is restricting airflow. Any idea when this was installed?

2- From what I have learned in the past couple days while looking for info in this forum, the ABS and ASR pump as really close to each other. There is a ground cable that comes from either the ABS or ASR pump that is not connected and probably something isn´t working. I believe this ground connection should connect to the back of the compressor (or power steering) pump but I am not sure. Do you know what this connection is exactly?

 

[pablo2696]

Adding to the previous post, my ETA looks exactly like this one...

Part number 0001417625

 

[gsxr]

Oh no. I forgot about that.. yes, you MUST install the correct ETA for the M119 with ASR, and also confirm your car has the correct E-GAS module for M119 as well. This may fix a number of your problems. The engine would run poorly, and this will also affect transmission shift firmness.

The ground wire is, I believe, an extra grounding strap between the engine (near power steering pump area) and the ASR pump bracket. Where is the other end of that wire connected now?

 

[pablo2696]

Oh no. I forgot about that.. yes, you MUST install the correct ETA for the M119 with ASR, and also confirm your car has the correct E-GAS module for M119 as well. This may fix a number of your problems. The engine would run poorly, and this will also affect transmission shift firmness.

The ground wire is, I believe, an extra grounding strap between the engine (near power steering pump area) and the ASR pump bracket. Where is the other end of that wire connected now?

oh well... deep inside I knew that I had to replace the ETA but I wanted to believe that I didn´t need to

I just ordered a reconditioned ASR ETA from a W140 S500 (part number is 0001417325) with a manufactured date of 1999.

About my E-GAS module I believe I have the original one since it has a august 1992 date and that was the month my car was produced. Part number is 124 545 26 32 as per the pic below.

 

[pablo2696]

oh well... deep inside I knew that I had to replace the ETA but I wanted to believe that I didn´t need to

I just ordered a reconditioned ASR ETA from a W140 S500 (part number is 0001417325) with a manufactured date of 1999.

About my E-GAS module I believe I have the original one since it has a august 1992 date and that was the month my car was produced. Part number is 124 545 26 32 as per the pic below.

View attachment 148566

Rebuilt ASR ETA with a white label is in, the throttle linkage is properly adjusted and now there is no more ASR light!! It is such a relief to be driving without that annoying yellow light. My car was previously my grandfather's car and he mentioned that the ASR light has been on as far as he can remember (he purchased it in 2003)...

The ETA in my car was in fact, and just like Dave mentioned, a non-ASR ETA with the green label. Part number is 000-141-76-25 coming from a W140 300SE/S320. I can now use cruise control and deactivate the ASR with the switch on the center console as it should be.

At high speeds, the car runs as well as before but at low speeds and while accelerating, I feel it is more responsive, consistent and smooth.

Thanks everything!