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What is the correct lug bolt for a lighweigh factory CLK wheel on a E 420?

Ascension

E420 Guru
Member
Running a set of 17 inch aftermarkets on my 420 now but stole a MINT set of CLK wheels at a pawn shop. Don't have the old ball seat lugs and need the specs with the CLK wheels as don't know which length to use. A deal of $ 175 OTD was to much to pass on these with a nice set of V rated Brigstones and the center caps! Car looks good with the 17's but just has never driven right so--.
Thanks guys! and yes still have the car LOL.CLK Wheels.jpg
 
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Running a set of 17 inch aftermarkets on my 420 now but stole a MINT set of CLK wheels at a pawn shop. Don't have the old ball seat lugs and need the specs with the CLK wheels as don't know which length to use. A deal of $ 175 OTD was to much to pass on these with a nice set of V rated Brigstones and the center caps! Car looks good with the 17's but just has never driven right so--.
Thanks guys! and yes still have the car LOL.View attachment 86814

Can't remember off hand, same question a while back, another forum... I think they are about the shortest length I've heard of, (maybe 21 mm's ??, really can't remember exactly)

Measure it yourself to be sure, take any old ball seat lug you can find, stick it through one of the mounting holes, then measure the shank length sticking out the back side of the wheel. That measurement needs to be 17 to 20mm. Then just do basic math, add or subtract mm's from your test bolt to get the length you need. They will be short bolts, shorter than the common 39-40mm bolts of that era.
 
outrbnks is correct - 21mm total length, ball seat. A couple mm longer is ok as well. Congrats on the score, btw! Hard to find these cheap nowadays, in decent shape anyway. They're either priced high, and/or in need of total refinishing, which is borderline impossible due to the machined face. $175 with good tires, did you weak a ski mask while paying? LOL. My wife's E420 has the same wheels, and my 400E as well.

About the lugs, I found this cool website W124performance.com! There are detailed photos of the original bolts, located in the wheels --> lugs directory. Here's a link:

http://124performance.com/images/W124_wheels/lug_bolts/170-400-00-70/

The OE bolts with decorative cap are almost impossible to find, so you can use either the new MB ones (without shiny cap), or aftermarket with the proper length / ball seat.

:burnout:
 
Thanks guys for the info it was the shank length I needed. The aftermaket wheels I now have have a different seat and I can't find the old original lugs.
I worked in Pawn shops for years and this set of wheels had sat in a shop for over a year the new manager is a friend of mine they had nothing in these and no one was looking at them so--. All 4 are super clean no curb rash no bends and no repairs I would have been nuts to not snag these for that $.
Gerry the car had been for a while but need to run down a couple gremlins now. Has a intermittent miss right now I can't nail down plus the air s out. Really need to do valve covers and all the rubber on top soon and still have that intermittent shift issue that seems temp affected. Was working so much for a while it all got pushed to the back burner so the car over the last 6 months or so hasn't been driven much. Trying to change that now as my situation has changed. Also had a major health scare that I'm still trying to get back from so--.
PS almost snagged a super clean little AMG SLK 55 last year. Local dealer got it knew I was into cars like that and called me. I had sent them a few customers over that last few years so they offered me a great deal on it. Unfortunately they also had it listed on line. Sold the car online while I was test driving the little beast blast it! If could have had time to really take a hard look a that car mechanically and it checked out would have likely bought it. Making me want a C55 badly now.
 
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outrbnks is correct - 21mm total length, ball seat. A couple mm longer is ok as well. Congrats on the score, btw! Hard to find these cheap nowadays, in decent shape anyway. They're either priced high, and/or in need of total refinishing, which is borderline impossible due to the machined face. $175 with good tires, did you weak a ski mask while paying? LOL. My wife's E420 has the same wheels, and my 400E as well.

About the lugs, I found this cool website W124performance.com! There are detailed photos of the original bolts, located in the wheels --> lugs directory. Here's a link:

http://124performance.com/images/W124_wheels/lug_bolts/170-400-00-70/

The OE bolts with decorative cap are almost impossible to find, so you can use either the new MB ones (without shiny cap), or aftermarket with the proper length / ball seat.

:burnout:
That short 21mm shank is what's throwing me a curve here. Found several sets on line that are 17mm ball socket but most have a 33mm shank. I am worried that they will bottom in the hub before they seat you have any insight on this?
 
That short 21mm shank is what's throwing me a curve here. Found several sets on line that are 17mm ball socket but most have a 33mm shank. I am worried that they will bottom in the hub before they seat you have any insight on this?
As stated above, you need 21mm, with about 2mm longer max (~23mm). Period. Longer bolts will hit parking brake shoe components when the rear wheels rotate.

:mushroom:
 
Had the same issue re: finding the proper sized rear lug bolts for my EVOII wheels. The recommended lug bolts were NLA and I didn't want to use the RAD lugs since they didn't have the polished caps and sat low in the lug wells (I preferred the more flush look of the original lug bolts). Ended up taking 2 sets of OE MB lug bolts and cutting/grinding down the shanks to the appropriate length where they didn't impact the parking brake mechanicals.
 
For those looking the ones you want are the stock lug bolts from a W123 with the wheels that take hubcaps. I don't have the part number handy but those are the ones. The steel and the light alloy wheels use the same shorter lugs that you want for the CLK wheels. The bundt lugs are too long and will not work.
 
For those looking the ones you want are the stock lug bolts from a W123 with the wheels that take hubcaps. I don't have the part number handy but those are the ones. The steel and the light alloy wheels use the same shorter lugs that you want for the CLK wheels. The bundt lugs are too long and will not work.
I know this now but my problem is I can't find them so far anywhere but the dealer. Give me a year and model to work off of it might help.
 
All they have in stock are the 23mm so will the 23's clear the parking brake with the CLK's safely? If so will pull the trigger and get these incoming.
23mm should be fine. Rotate the rear wheel a few times to make sure there are no funny ticking noises, BEFORE you lower the car and drive it.

Anything longer than 23mm and you could have issues.

:mushroom1:
 
I know this now but my problem is I can't find them so far anywhere but the dealer. Give me a year and model to work off of it might help.

1977 240D. Here is the VIN for my car which originally had the steel wheels and hubcaps. 12312312022776
 
23mm should be fine. Rotate the rear wheel a few times to make sure there are no funny ticking noises, BEFORE you lower the car and drive it.

Anything longer than 23mm and you could have issues.

:mushroom1:
Thanks Dave will get them in rout.
 
As gsxr said 23mm should work, and if your still worried, just do the measurement I mentioned earlier, 17mm to 20mm sticking out the backside of the wheel is what your looking for. In addition, even if 23mm was too long, (probably not), you could easily grind off 2 mm, it's such a small amount. 2 mm = .078xxx, about 5/64", or just a little over 1/16th". More I think about it, 23mm can't be too long, with 20mm out the backside being acceptable. The wheels width at the mounting holes has to be 3mm or more. 3 mm is just under 1/8th", (.118"). I would bet that the shape of the mounting hole and the thickness of the metal combined is at least 3 mm when measured. Can you please do the measurement using the 23mm bolts you ordered and post back, interested in hearing what that measurement is... and congrats on getting these great wheels at such a bargain price.
 
Got them on today but have slight clearance issues on the front with the back side of he inner fender well on a turn. Tire size is 215x55x16.


E 420 w CLK's.jpg
 
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Preferred tire size is 205-55-16, but with some mild tweaking the 215's will work. Might need to shim the fender attachment point. Your speedo & odo will be off by a couple percent with the larger tires.
 
Could be the control arms are in not great condition and the wheel is not centered within the wheel arch. I had this issue and it went away when I replaced the control arms.
 
Cory, did you use new OE LCA's? Interesting about the control arms affecting wheel location!

:blink: :klink:
 
Odd...My ‘92 CE runs these same 16” CLK wheels (23mm shank bolts) with Michelin 215/55 tires and SportLine springs, and my 420 has the same tires mounted on 7.5 x 16 (ET 40) 8 hole rims (28mm shank bolts) with standard springs, and neither setup has any clearance issues.
And both retain accurate speedometer readings...
 
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Preferred tire size is 205-55-16, but with some mild tweaking the 215's will work. Might need to shim the fender attachment point. Your speedo & odo will be off by a couple percent with the larger tires.
That was the issue with the 17's that fender lip but not here. Here its the tire hitting right in the middle of the back of the inner fender when I'm turning the wheel and hit a bump. These tires wont stay as hate these things. Brigstone Ecopias in 215x55x16 they just don't respond worth a crap + don't stick and ride harshly.. Will go to a set of Pirelli P7's like I had on the 17's. They have a 205x55x16 here https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...enz&autoYear=1995&autoModel=E420&autoModClar=.
last forever ride well and stick well. Also have a set on my wifes Chrysler 200 S with the V6. It was amazing when I dumped the Kumoes it came with because you can actually crack the throttle in the first 3 gears now without going up in smoke LOL!! Ride quality is also light years better.
 
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Cory, did you use new OE LCA's? Interesting about the control arms affecting wheel location!

:blink: :klink:

Yes, this was on my 3.6 wagon. The passenger wheel was not centered in the wheel well and when I swapped on 17's I smashed the hell out of the cladding and rubbed. I came to cringe on every bump in the road and every piece of un-level pavement.

When I did the front suspension rebuild with the OEM sportline control arms the issue was resolved as the wheel was centered in the wheel arch.

Even if OP had the situation I described, it could easily be fixed by running a 205/55/16 tire.
 
Thanks for the info, Cory... one last question, do you know if the "problem" LCA's were OE with worn-out bushings, or aftermarket installed by a previous owner?

:detective:
 
I am not 100% sure, but believe they were just old high miles lower control arms. I have seen someone on peachparts post up the same issue and their wheel looked to be off center within the wheel arch as well.

I believe there is a technical alignment term for what I am describing that perhaps Klink could clarify....setback??
 
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I am just finishing replacement of front control arms as well as many other front end items but the work really began to correct the same issue which came about due to a moment of distraction that resulted in contact with a curb. In my case the change in wheel location seems to be shared between the arm being slightly bent, the bushing pulled slightly out from the arm and possibly being knocked out of alignment although I saw no indication of such and the car drove well. I have more accurate measurements to take as I would like to know exactly how much the arm bent.

drew
 

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