TLDR: At only 90kmi there may not be a lot of components with excessive wear. Sure you can replace everything but don't expect much noticeable difference besides a much lighter wallet. Inspect each component and replace if required.
emerydc8 is correct, the rear lower support joints are very likely bad - this is a very common failure. See the forum HOW-TO for details. If the seals are cracked, replace the joints. This would be high priority, and relatively low cost.
I also agree about the rear subframe mounts, in particular the rear mounts may be collapsed. Search the forum for photos showing good vs bad, if the mount is resting on the round stop plate, they have failed and need replacement. OE/OEM rear Sportline bushings are NLA but there are aftermarket replicas that seem cromulent. The front subframe bushings tend to last longer, and OE/OEM tall-tab style are NLA. You can still get OE short-tab bushings. I'd avoid any aftermarket brands. Medium-high priority, low cost as DIY, fairly high cost paying a shop (lots of labor).
Front swaybar bushings, if original, are pretty likely toast (deformed). Relatively easy and cheap to replace. OE/Genuine bushings ONLY. Rear bar bushings are probably fine, but aren't expensive.
All 4 or 5 rear subframe links are low priority unless you find visible wear/damage. Fairly high cost / lots of labor. Some or all of these links are all made in low-cost countries now, the original German-made parts are mostly gone. I usually replace all this stuff at 200kmi/300kkm or beyond.
Front LCA bushings can look kinda bad from the little bit of visible rubber, but are often OK internally. At 90kmi they may be fine, unless oil-soaked from fluid leaks. If they are oil soaked, first fix the leaks, then replace the bushings. This would be pretty low on the priority list for me. High cost / lots of labor, alignment required afterwards.
Check each individual steering joint for sideways play, if they are tight and the boots are intact, they are still good. You didn't mention if your car is a 500E or if it has early vs late LCA's, the late LCA's in particular should have the ball joint boot monitored closely so it can be replaced at the first sign of failure (see forum HOW-TO). You can measure the idler arm play with a dial gauge, there's a HOW-TO on this as well. If you can't detect any play, this is also low priority.
Dampers are a wildcard. If original the front struts may have low gas pressure. New OE are made in Turkey now with questionable lifespan. Bilstein Sports are an option if you want something firmer. Rear SLS shocks are NLA (some available on eBay at high cost) so if they aren't leaking you can skip those. Fronts strut mounts may be tired by 90kmi, new OE are made in Turkey now, Jono likes Meyle HD for this application despite COO being China. Don't forget new foam stop buffers with new front struts (OE only), replace the accordion dust boot if damaged (OE only).
Part numbers for everything are on the forum, search for details.
