• Hi Guest !

    Welcome to the 500Eboard forum.

    Since its founding in late 2008, 500Eboard has become the leading resource on the Internet for all things related to the Mercedes-Benz 500E and E500. In recent years, we have also expanded to include the 400E and E420 models, which are directly related to the 500E/E500.

    We invite you to browse and take advantage of the information and resources here on the site. If you find helpful information, please register for full membership, and you'll find even more resources available. Feel free to ask questions, and make liberal use of the "Search" function to find answers.

    We hope you will become an active contributor to the community!

    Sincerely,
    500Eboard Management

Wheel and Tire Help for My New 92 Eurospec Purchase

frm1484

E500E Guru
Member
Hey guys, I am the one who bought the Eurospec (old ECM car with the oregon plates and great pics) out of DC last week, will get to setting up an owner thread eventually. One of my immediate changes is going to be to change out the current wheels (lorinser LM5 - reps I believe, on there now). Have researched the forum and been able to educate myself on some of the basics. Below are some of my rambling thoughts / questions (am grateful in advance if you get all the way to the end, as this is not really a get to the point club style post); I welcome all opinions, answers and general thoughts from the group, and obviously if anyone knows of anything for sale potentially fitting my needs please let me know - Thanks

Style: While not unique, my gut is telling me to go back to monoblocks. In general I love more thinly spoked wheels on lots of cars, but most of the e500e pics I have seen, the chunkier look seems to appeal more to my eye especially on the darker colors. I love monolites and BBS LMs on silver in particular, but on darker colors the chunkier look is currently suiting me (any more real world pics of non-chunky on dark colors to change my opinion would be appreciated). I like the Brabus Monoblock III and Rial wheels as well but from what i can tell these are tough to source. Open to suggestions/thoughts/recommendations on others i should consider but the ECM pictures of this exact car with the MBs just make me drool and want to go back to that look http://www.euroclassicmotors.com/galleries/500e1992.html

Size: will be either 18s or 19s, love the look of 19s in ecm pics, have read what some have said that 19s will ride like crap, know there are a few guys that have run 19s and interested to hear more of the real world "having lived with it" feedback from those actually running the 19s. For perspective, I have an 07 997s right now with 19s and i'm pretty sure a stiffer suspension than this car and while taut, for my blood the ride harshness of that car doesn't bother me. I will get to 19inch monoblocks discussion in more specifics later on!

Offset: know the 18 Monoblocks with et31s upfront and 35 in rear are considered straight bolt on, but in looking at pics some examples of these still look like a bit of a conservative stance to hold that is a bit sunk in still (others agree?). When I think about "net" offset (after spacers if applicable) where do people feel is the ideal spot to land? I know the acceptable range from low 20s to mid 30s depending on width, but that seems kinda wide, looking for opinions on an ideal ET to target. Apologies for being a wheel/tire newb here but would seem to me that a "square" set up for offset would make sense but sounds like et31/35 on the 18inch MBs is characterized as bolt on, do the front and rear wheel hubs sit offset from each other or do computers desire not to have a "square" set up from offset perspective, or is there something else i am not appreciating on the offset front for having square vs staggered offsets?

Spacers: Now its going to get provocative! Seems to be a very polarizing topic. I obviously would prefer not to use them if possible, but a lot of the wheels I am considering are just not going to come in a low enough offset to work and am not in the mood to drop boat loads of cash for custom ordered HREs or something of that ilk, so my options become rather limited to 18inch MBs if spacers are a non-starter for me. Being a wheel/tire newb (never run anything but stock wheels on every car i have ever owned), would like honest feedback on i) what specifically makes spacers "an evil trick of the hacks" from those who hold that opinion (please note my sarcasm, not trying to incite wwIII in my first post) and ii) perspectives of people that actually run them in the real world and why they either think there is nothing wrong with it and/or any problems they have encountered in running them. Finally for those in the pro-spacer club, is there a point where you start to ask for trouble with too large of a spacer (e.g. 25mm)?

19 Inch Monoblocks: Realize getting factory ones are rare, expensive and they came off of an S-Class that requires a different thread bolt than a w124 and at 46ET would require spacers. I'm dense when it comes to wheels so looking for help in understanding exactly what the bolt requirement of 12mm bolts with 14mm ball seats actually means in layman's terms as i understand these would be required for w124 fitment. Probably more important, would also be to know if this a bolt that can be purchased off the rack or does it require a custom fabrication to "make" by combining multiple bolts. I have found a set of fully refurbed authentic 19x8.5 square AMGs in Canada, asking price seems very steep to me at over $3K, but for fully refurbed assuming they are also straight and true as claimed do people think that is just the price of entry to get a turn key very rare wheel, and if i went with a more beat up set at closer to $1500, would I spend another $1500+ to get them right? Also if i ultimately went this pathway, am i asking for trouble with a 46et wheel that i would probably put 20mm or 25mm spacers on?

Width / Tires: running 18/19x 8/8.5/9/9.5 what sizes / profile tires are recommended to keep computers happy and any ranges i need to keep within on F/R to ensure no rubbing issues (a anytime rub will be a non-starter for me and help me narrow my search parameters), most everything i have been looking at falls within this range from 8-9.5 wheel width so understanding anything within this range that becomes problematic at certain "net" offsets becomes helpful too

If you have read this far you are a trooper and I am very appreciative of your time - thanks again, Rob
 
Welcome to the club, Rob. You've asked a bunch of questions, I'll try to address what I think is important.

First, diameter in and of itself, does NOT affect ride quality that much. Obviously, a drastically shorter tire sidewall does transmit more "shock" into the car but today's tires do a good job of minimizing that. What's most important is the overall weight of the wheel/tire combo. This is where Monoblocks tend to give poor ride, they are relatively heavy, especially in 19" diameter. Coupling a heavy wheel with a heavy tire can really hurt ride quality so it's important to choose tires wisely.

Regarding width. The stock wheel is 8" wide and with any wheel upgrade, I would go to at least 8.5. Believe it or not, the front can swallow as much as a 9.5" wheel with 275/35 tire with an ET of around 20 to 25 depending on which tire you select. Personally, I would probably not run that wide for a street driven car. Also, from the factory, our cars came with a square setup, 8 x 16 and there's no reason you have to stagger other than many folks like the look better.

To keep the computers happy, just ensure that the overall diameter and specifically the revolutions per mile are within 3 percent of each other, front to rear, however, I think we determined that the computers are slightly more sensitive with smaller diameter in the rear.

Spacers: It's best to find wheels with the correct offset but if that's not possible, I think spacers are perfectly acceptable. Just keep in mind that if you need really thick spacers, you may be adding significant weight to your tire /wheel combo.

hth,
Glen
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the club, Rob. You've asked a bunch of questions, I'll try to address what I think is important.

First, diameter in and of itself, does NOT affect ride quality that much. Obviously, a drastically shorter tire sidewall does transmit more "shock" into the car but today's tires do a good job of minimizing that. What's most important is the overall weight of the wheel/tire combo. This is where Monoblocks tend to give poor ride, they are relatively heavy, especially in 19" diameter. Coupling a heavy wheel with a heavy tire can really hurt ride quality so it's important to choose tires wisely.

+1 on this ! When I ran my 19" Monolites with light weight tires they felt the same as my 18"

Regarding width. The stock wheel is 8" wide and with any wheel upgrade, I would go to at least 8.5. Believe it or not, the front can swallow as much as a 9.5" wheel with 275/35 tire with an ET of around 20 if you select the right tire. Personally, I would probably not run that wide for a street driven car. Also, from the factory, our cars came with a square setup, 8 x 16 and there's no reason you have to stagger other than many folks like the look better.

I think I used a 3mm spacer on the front with my 19" x 9.5 ET35 Brabus Mono III crazy heavy and not so great riding wheels

Spacers: It's best to find wheels with the correct offset but if that's not possible, I think spacers are perfectly acceptable. Just keep in mind that if you need really thick spacers, you may be adding significant weight to your tire /wheel combo.

I've ran spacers on lots of cars and never had any issues, just like most things when done the right way its all good.

Someone need to make us some light weight 18" AMG Monoblocks, can you say group buy ?
 
Last edited:
.... some have said that 19s will ride like crap, know there are a few guys that have run 19s and interested to hear more of the real world "having lived with it" feedback from those actually running the 19s. ....

I found my staggered AMG Style 3, 19 inch rims with 285/35 rear and 245/35 much less comfortable that the OEM set up.

.... looking for help in understanding exactly what the bolt requirement of 12mm bolts with 14mm ball seats actually means in layman's terms as i understand these would be required for w124 fitment. Probably more important, would also be to know if this a bolt that can be purchased off the rack or does it require a custom fabrication to "make" by combining multiple bolts.

For bolts see this thread

http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6000&p=81007#post81007

around post #13.

Jim
 

Attachments

  • 20140906_151755.jpg
    20140906_151755.jpg
    193.5 KB · Views: 28
Congratulations on the purchase, Rob. I have run multiple wheels with and without spacers and agree with the previous posters. The combination wheel bolts are simply 12mm bolts with slightly larger ball seat area that matches the S class bolt seat and are readily available. I also agree the closed style wheels "monoblock" fit the period and style of these cars best. Just my opinion. If you decide to use spacers just be careful of details such as wheel bolt length, quality of spacers, (H&R seems to be very good in my experience. Some centerbore tolerances in cheap spacers may be sloppy), and proper wheel bolt tightening torque and sequence. There can also be issues with spacer to wheel bearing dust cap mating. Read through some of the posts detailing these issues. Avoid spacers if possible but used correctly with attention to detail you should have no problem.
 
I run 18s, non staggered and no spacers. I like that I can rotate these, and as Glen said they fill up the wheel well, well (pun intended). I personally think the negative space look (a la Evo II, 17") looks great on all colors of these cars. 18s are a relatively safe +2 fitment that today's tire rubber wears much better. I didn't see the need to risk 19s. Good luck.

Welcome aboard. Nice car, congrats!

maw
 
To keep the computers happy, just ensure that the overall diameter and specifically the revolutions per mile are within 3 percent of each other, front to rear, however, I think we determined that the computers are slightly more sensitive with smaller diameter in the rear.
Just a warning... 3% difference diameter front to rear and the cruise control WILL NOT work at freeway speeds. Don't ask how I know. Try to keep the diameters under 1.5% difference... I like 1.0% or less. If running non-staggered wheels with the same size tire all around, it's a non-issue. And yes, ASR isn't happy with smaller rear diameter, it thinks there is wheelspin and freaks out..

:3gears:
 
Pardon the dumb question, as I said before, never run anything but stock wheels and tires, but if I'm running same diameter rims f&r and potentially just staggered widths, wouldn't my tire profile wall be the same on both just different widths so I shouldnt have the 3% differential problem?
 
Tire sidewall height is a percentage of width, so as you increase width, the aspect ratio goes down to maintain a given overall diameter. For instance, stock size is 225/55-16, a common upgrade to 17" would be 245/45-17 or 18" would be 245/40-18. But going wider at the same time means you would need a 275/40-17 or 275/35-18 to maintain diameter.
 
Thanks, told you I was tire illiterate!.......so punchline is if you go staggered you gotta make sure to have compensating ratio adj between front and back and for every 30mm of width differential that translates to a move "5" down in the ratio measurement for the second number on the tire size? Or is it a new calc every time and doesnt work linear like that?
 
Always use a tire size calculator... there are several to choose from, use Google to find 'em.

:burnout:
 
E55 Amg monoblocks are my preference, although am a huge fan of some of the Carlsson wheels of the era.

welcome and congrats on the car.

Chris
 
Thanks for all of the great responses.....anyone have any experience with rotiforms? They have some interesting designs IMO.......Another dumb question, they have a couple designs available forged or cast 1pc. Obviously as you go to larger wheels the forging weight to strength advantage prob becomes more compelling but any opinions if in an 18x8.5-9.5 size range the nearly 5x price difference for forged vs cast in same design is worth it (don't plan to track my 500e)
 
Rob what style wheels are you looking for, I just checked out the rotiforms and didn't see anything that really fits the look of our cars. A forge wheel like you said will be lighter and stronger so it comes down to what roads you drive on and if you feel you will have issues with small bends in the wheels. Did you seen the OZ SUPERLEGGERA III might be a nice wheel for you and I'm sure you can get replacement parts in the future. I had a customer that bought some very high end wheels and after 24 months parts and or replacement wheel was NLA that was a waste of $9K but his insurance cover it all. FYI DON"T use run-flat tires we have seen many cracked wheels because of the stiff sidewalls.
 
Main thing is to find wheels that have the proper width and offset (preferably avoiding spacers, if possible) and also the proper 66.67mm hub center bore. Looks, as always, are in the eye of the beer holder. I agree with Jeff about run-flats... DO NOT use those!!

:5150:
 
In particular I Thought the nue 5 was interesting, haven't called Rotiform yet as been on vaca this week but looks like you can buy that design either in cast or forged, and everything I have read on this wheel in cast suggests it's a really good value (obviously assuming the styling fits one's taste, and a heavy cast wheel is ok for one's needs - hence question about if for non-track use anyone has an opinion on value in paying up for forged vs cast)

looks like regular people can order directly from them and can customize a number of factors to make it a clean fit. unclear what custom ordering a cast set for example does to cost vs in stock inventory at dealers...design basically looks like the wheels on the old ruf 911s.....imo it kinda looks like a 5-spoke EVO In some ways, i thought below look was interesting and worth investigation, (don't worry Jeff, not thinking about putting a copper and purple set on here which is some of what the website features) what do others think? - trust me I will take no offense whatsoever and would rather hear honest opinions if people think I'm losing my mind here

Thanks again guys, much appreciated
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    49.1 KB · Views: 34
I should also clarify that picture is from a stanceworks forum post and was a photoshop a guy did for someone who was considering the wheel on his 500e, have yet to find an actual pic mounted on an e500e, but this at least gives some idea
 
Good question I don't have answer to yet, was going to call them on Monday if I decide am more interested, most relevant datapoint I found was when they came out with the forged option for the BLQ line (more of a mesh design they have) on a forum somewhere a Rotiform guy was quoted saying that on the forged 20x9 was 3lbs less than the same design at 19x8.5 in cast. At the time they hadn't made the 19s forged yet but they were expecting a low 20s weight for the 19s when they did (data that can only give a rough triangulation I know, but will call them Monday and revert back with more specific weights)
 
Regarding width. The stock wheel is 8" wide and with any wheel upgrade, I would go to at least 8.5. Believe it or not, the front can swallow as much as a 9.5" wheel with 275/35 tire with an ET of around 20 to 25 depending on which tire you select. Personally, I would probably not run that wide for a street driven car. Also, from the factory, our cars came with a square setup, 8 x 16 and there's no reason you have to stagger other than many folks like the look better.


hth,
Glen


Vividracing has the 18x9.5 with the 5x112 bolt pattern off the shelf available in 25mm or 35mm offset......probably pretty aggressive look, but from your first post glen, sounds like an 18x9.5 square set-up at 25mm offset should still work and give a nice aggressive look pretty flush to the fenders? When you said you would not run that wide in the front on a street set-up is your concern that you are just playing with fire going that wide and could get some rubbing in a variety of places?
 
I wouldn't run a 275 on the front for a street car, 9.5 ET25 wheel is fine with a narrower tire.
 
Rotiform VCE looks like a pretty good replica of the OZ Racing/Compomotive design, which I think would give e500es a good DTM look. There is also Fifteen52 Tarmac, which looks a bit like a 5 spoke version of evo2s(Neez Euro Five)
While I feel like the Monoblocks suit the look of e500es the best(especially 500e), I hear they are quite heavy..
 
Last edited:
While I feel like the Monoblocks suit the look of e500es the best(especially 500e), I hear they are quite heavy..
The W210 Monoblocks are on the heavy side (around 26 lbs, IIRC) but that's not terrible. I've seen some aftermarket wheels 30lbs or more. Anything in the mid-20's is fine. Shoot, the stock 16-inch 8-holers are 24 lbs, and so are the Evo II's!

Finding wheels in the low 20's with the correct width, offset, and desired appearance will be searching for the proverbial needle in a haystack. If you're not involved in some sort of competition (drag racing, road racing, autox) you will probably not notice the difference of a few pounds per wheel. Select lightweight tires to help reduce weight... Conti DW or DWS are both on the lighter side, along with Michelin PSS (which are great, but available in limited sizes).

:seesaw:
 
Hi from the UK!
I recently purchased an E500, to which had been fitted a set of 17" x 7 1/2J EVO II wheels ET37, running on 235/45 tyres, with 10mm spacers on the front, and 20mm on the rear. I wanted to return the car to ex-factory condition, so fitted a set of original 16" x 8J ET34 alloys running on 225/55 tyres. The improvement in handling and ride was remarkable.
I probably won't make many friends by saying this, but I know some of you guys like to use other combinations of wheels sizes, spacers etc. for cosmetic reasons. I'm wondering how much the actual handling of the car is compromised when you move away from the original spec as chosen by MB/Porsche?
 
Your previous set up with 235/45 on 7.5 evos with spacers and all is not ideal for an E500 in the first place . Yes back in stock form on 16" will ride better in comparison . However with correct evos , 17 x 8.2.5 et34 with 245/45 tyres as original fitment on LTDs , it will ride as close to being on 16".

The smaller evos are designed for w201s and regular W124s really .
 
I wouldn't run a 275 on the front for a street car, 9.5 ET25 wheel is fine with a narrower tire.

FWIW:

I run 9.5 X 18 ET25 with 245 / 40 on the front of mine with no fitment issues, perfect (IMHO) fitment.

Downside with this footprint is, plan on what I would call severe hydro-planing, been through 4 different sets of tires and issue still persists. Luckily it doesn't rain much here so it is seldom an issue.

Mark
 

Attachments

  • Picture 034 Resized.jpg
    Picture 034 Resized.jpg
    49.3 KB · Views: 28
Thanks a lot for the helpful responses in here. Have not made any move yet but after a lot of research and paying closer attention to my current set up while driving around (i.e. liking the ride) am thinking i want to stick with 18s.

If i can find a set of Rial Arc 18s that is my first choice - if jelmer would sell gerry's old wheels i would be all over it (also is that the full name of the wheel i should be searching for or is there anything else in the name i should be looking for? M800?). Consolation prize would probably be a set of Brabus Monoblock III (i know they are heavy but have yet to see anywhere exactly how heavy and I was assuming they were probably somewhere right on top of comparable diameter W210 Monoblocks?).

Depending on how impatient I get in what could be a long search for either of those, backup plan is either a set of W210 Monoblocks or a set of the Rotiform NUE (earlier post has pic of the machined finish NUEs photoshopped on a 500e). Interestingly didn't get much response on the Rotis post earlier so guessing not really most folks cup of tea but for whatever reason they keep attracting me back as what i should do as the backup to Rials/MBIII. It's a different look for the car and i like the fact that don't see many other e500e's going that route. Question I am still debating is if I would go with the standard silver machined finish or for what they call the DDT finish (file photo and pic on a car of the DDT finish below - inside of wheel is all black too which is kinda cool, and practical when it comes to showing brake dust)
 

Attachments

  • Rotiform_NUE_19x10_BLK&DDT_FAce_1000.png
    Rotiform_NUE_19x10_BLK&DDT_FAce_1000.png
    819.5 KB · Views: 19
  • 11264566_377536079104029_908518351_n.jpg
    11264566_377536079104029_908518351_n.jpg
    102.9 KB · Views: 19
Know its a different opinion than many but with more time being able to observe my car day to day, I am coming to a more steadfast view that i think i want to go with a 19 (i already realize my flip-flopping on size here is worse than a politician....so no need to make me aware of it again). I continue to love the look of the MBIII's but weight still has me concerned

I have to say, I was fairly warned before my purchase by reading this forum, but like just about everyone, my ownership experience/investment is very quickly becoming quite the slippery slope.....so in that spirit, i started discussing a custom set of HREs last week with my shop to try and do 19s but in a light/strong forged application to minimize the ride compromise and one where I can custom order to perfect fitment specs

I know HREs generally have a good reputation but figured would solicit any knowledge from those with substantially more than me or any particular past experiences with HRE.

Below is a render of the 303M on a picture taken of my car at the shop (obviously its not a period or factory matching look at all, which my initial instinct was more leaning to do, as such its probably not what many would do choose for an 036, but it struck my eye)......my biggest problem with a wide open design like this, is that I would "HAVE" to upgrade to the Silver Arrow kit to fill all that open space, (source wheel pic for the render just proves that!)........reality is that I was already giving serious thought to SAs anyway irrespective of wheel choice, these would just push me further down the slippery slope!!!)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0796.PNG
    IMG_0796.PNG
    939.7 KB · Views: 43
Just my opinion, but I think the rendered photo of 303Ms above are out of scale with the rest of the car.
 
Just my opinion, but I think the rendered photo of 303Ms above are out of scale with the rest of the car.

Thanks appreciate honest feedback, yeah it's less noticeable on this wheel than some of the others he did, but I think he may have oversized the photo shop wheel relative to how 19s would look and some of my pics probably look more akin to how a 20 might look
 
Although my stock 16" wheels don't look as good as my EVO 2s, the Michelin Primacy HP tires on my 16" stock wheels make the car handle better than my EVOs.

So, I keep the EVOs on the Renntech and the stock wheels on the 93' daily driver.
 
Last edited:
More opinion...the design of the 303M is actually pretty nice and I think works with our cars. But, in the rendered image, the wheels appear to be at least 20" and are WAY too large. Another thing, the SA brake rotors are only 334mm and will still look a little small with 19" wheels, IMO. To look right, you'd want the Stoptech 355mm kit.
 
More options here... http://fitment.mandruswheels.com/al...ide-results.php?year=1992&model=SL-Class+R129 I know it's spec'd for a 129 car, and I'm not precise on the offset differences, if any.

If it was me, I'd: (a) stick with a +2 fitment over the stock 16" (no 19s); (b) go non-staggered; (c) go with a less niche wheel like HRE; and (d) make sure I could put a MB center cap in to keep with an illusion of stock if nothing else.

You can see a close up of my wheels on my page to get a sense of how that plays out.

Good luck,

maw
 

Who has viewed this thread (Total: 1) View details

Back
Top