Also where are the squirters? There are none on my hood, is it part of the wiper arm assembly? Maybe something is clogged with dirt? What can you guys suggest i check?
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Windshield washer doesnt squirt but i hear the pump actuating. What can i check?
- Thread starter Benzmannyc
- Start date
Are you activating the washer by pushing the end of the turn signal stalk INWARD toward the steering column (center of the car)?
It's not all that uncommon for the nozzles to clog, or even the lines. Good chance the lines are old and brittle themselves (mine are on my E500). Good project to replace the lines (new line is cheap via AutohauzAZ) and order two new nozzles. They are not all that expensive either. I've replaced the nozzles on a couple of my cars.
I'd recommend unhooking the lines from the nipples on the nozzles, and activating the washer. if you get any fluid out the ends of the lines, you know it's the nozzles that are clogged (unlikely that it's both of them though -- typically one of the two squirters at each side's nozzle is clogged, not both of them, but stranger things have happened). If no fluid comes out, then you know it's either the motor or a line. One motor goes to the headlamp wipers/washers, the other motor goes to the windshield washers. Determine by feel/sound (disconnect the headlight pump electrically) to see if the windshield pump is operating, and vice versa to see if the headlight pump is working.
If the pumps are both working, and the lines are not clogged, then it's somehow an obstruction in the reservoir itself. You'll have to remove the cap and take out the heating element, and see what the situation is at the bottom of the reservoir. Remove the pumps and check the intakes at the pumps to ensure they are not clogged.
Methodical diagnosis, starting at the windshield squirters, is the way to isolate the problem.
Cheers,
Gerry
It's not all that uncommon for the nozzles to clog, or even the lines. Good chance the lines are old and brittle themselves (mine are on my E500). Good project to replace the lines (new line is cheap via AutohauzAZ) and order two new nozzles. They are not all that expensive either. I've replaced the nozzles on a couple of my cars.
I'd recommend unhooking the lines from the nipples on the nozzles, and activating the washer. if you get any fluid out the ends of the lines, you know it's the nozzles that are clogged (unlikely that it's both of them though -- typically one of the two squirters at each side's nozzle is clogged, not both of them, but stranger things have happened). If no fluid comes out, then you know it's either the motor or a line. One motor goes to the headlamp wipers/washers, the other motor goes to the windshield washers. Determine by feel/sound (disconnect the headlight pump electrically) to see if the windshield pump is operating, and vice versa to see if the headlight pump is working.
If the pumps are both working, and the lines are not clogged, then it's somehow an obstruction in the reservoir itself. You'll have to remove the cap and take out the heating element, and see what the situation is at the bottom of the reservoir. Remove the pumps and check the intakes at the pumps to ensure they are not clogged.
Methodical diagnosis, starting at the windshield squirters, is the way to isolate the problem.
Cheers,
Gerry
For the lines, Autohauz indicates that one should "verify existing hose diameter prior to ordering". Happen to know the hose diameter on the E500E? Also, did you get your nozzles from Autohauz or Parts.com. I ask because there is a huge price difference.
The ID of the hoses is the same throughout the system. However, the OD of the hose to the hood is larger as it includes a heating element. You can trim back some of the end of this (keeping the wires intact) to expose some "fresh" tubing, but after doing this once or twice, there isn't enough length available and the entire hose would need replacement. I've not yet had to replace a hose but it's something to keep in mind.
The standard hose for the headlight wipers is cheap since it's non-heated. No need for the expensive parts.com OE hose, just get the aftermarket stuff. The new OE hose is black, original was clear. Aftermarket is clear.
The standard hose for the headlight wipers is cheap since it's non-heated. No need for the expensive parts.com OE hose, just get the aftermarket stuff. The new OE hose is black, original was clear. Aftermarket is clear.
Honestly, hose is just cheap enough that it's worth the cost just to change it out, lock stock and barrel.
Yeah, it's a bit of effort to thread it around and through where it needs to go, but the hose doesn't get any more supple with age, and cutting the ends off to expose fresh hose trick is a nice "pinch" maneuver, but all it does is buy you some time. It's kind of like spending $600 replacing valve stem seals on a smoky M117, when what the car really needs are new valve guide seals and a $6,000 head job. The seals will get you 6 months to a year, if they solve the problem at all, but you'll still have to bite the bullet eventually and get new valve stem seals pressed in.
Age and heat kills the hose (fossilized OE hose turns a dark brown color from its original white) and it's just best given the cost, to replace it.
Thank goodness washer hoses are cheaper than a $6,000 M117 head job....
Yeah, it's a bit of effort to thread it around and through where it needs to go, but the hose doesn't get any more supple with age, and cutting the ends off to expose fresh hose trick is a nice "pinch" maneuver, but all it does is buy you some time. It's kind of like spending $600 replacing valve stem seals on a smoky M117, when what the car really needs are new valve guide seals and a $6,000 head job. The seals will get you 6 months to a year, if they solve the problem at all, but you'll still have to bite the bullet eventually and get new valve stem seals pressed in.
Age and heat kills the hose (fossilized OE hose turns a dark brown color from its original white) and it's just best given the cost, to replace it.
Thank goodness washer hoses are cheaper than a $6,000 M117 head job....
One of my squirters was clogged and wasn't squirting at all, a new squirter fixed the issue and I replaced both of them this morning, since they were original.
Side note, I also had to replace the piping leading into the washer reservoir. I noticed that my coolant level was dropping a bit and the culprit was the heating pipes leading into the washer reservoir - when the car was running, you could see bubbles coming up inside the reservoir, which turn out to be the coolant. So I had all of the piping and the washer reservoir replaced with new OEM parts. The washer reservoir was showing signs of minor cracks at the bottom, so instead of the washer reservoir starting to leak, I decided to replace it now vs. later. The hoses under the hood were still in god shape, so we left them alone.
Since owning my car stating from July of 2005, this was the first time where a few items needed to be replaced at the same time...not bad for a 21 year old car.
Side note, I also had to replace the piping leading into the washer reservoir. I noticed that my coolant level was dropping a bit and the culprit was the heating pipes leading into the washer reservoir - when the car was running, you could see bubbles coming up inside the reservoir, which turn out to be the coolant. So I had all of the piping and the washer reservoir replaced with new OEM parts. The washer reservoir was showing signs of minor cracks at the bottom, so instead of the washer reservoir starting to leak, I decided to replace it now vs. later. The hoses under the hood were still in god shape, so we left them alone.
Since owning my car stating from July of 2005, this was the first time where a few items needed to be replaced at the same time...not bad for a 21 year old car.
Just in case anyone is wondering, the right windshield washer nozzle is 124 860 16 47 and the left is 124 860 15 47. They are $42.60 each on parts.com. There was another post somewhere on this forum that indicates that they may have a tendency to break when removed.
