WANTED WTB M119 Crankshaft seal tools

[Uni Baller]

Hi guys new registered member (long time stalker) Im on the hunt for the front main seal and rear main seal installer tools. Im currently doing a M119 rebuild and they would be super helpful.

Ive found the miller 9101 will work for the front and I found one on ebay for $120 just wanted to see if someone has one for less! (one time use is all i need)

As for the rear tool ive seen "The neighborhood friendly technician" use the factory tool but its very elusive. (117 589 0043 00) I have purchased a 13mm repair seal for the rear and will be taking the rear cover off as well. So not sure if i actually need factory tool.

Really Just looking for the tools if they are out there floating around thank you.

 

[gsxr]

Hi guys new registered member (long time stalker) Im on the hunt for the front main seal and rear main seal installer tools. Im currently doing a M119 rebuild and they would be super helpful.

Ive found the miller 9101 will work for the front and I found one on ebay for $120 just wanted to see if someone has one for less! (one time use is all i need)

The OE dealer tool is p/n 119-589-01-14-00, available for ~$100 from discount dealers. You missed out on a Miller 9101 a couple weeks ago for $50 (look at completed auctions on eBay). Might find one cheaper if you have time to wait for a good deal. Measure the current position of your old front seal BEFORE removal. Factory position was often ~1.0-1.5mm inward from the face, and pressing the new seal in either flush or in 3.0mm might not be adequate to ride on a virgin section of the hub. Last couple I did, I had the seal protrude from the face slightly so it was 2.5-3.0mm away from the previous position. YMMV, etc.

As for the rear tool ive seen "The neighborhood friendly technician" use the factory tool but its very elusive. (117 589 0043 00)

If still available, the OE tool is ~$175 from discount dealers. There is an aftermarket version from Sir Tools, M0043A, but that might be NLA.

I have purchased a 13mm repair seal for the rear and will be taking the rear cover off as well. So not sure if i actually need factory tool.

If you have the rear cover off you may be able to use a hydraulic press with appropriate shims to press a new seal into place. Just make sure the new seal is PERFECTLY level. If not, rip it out, throw it away, and repeat until it's PERFECT. You don't want to pull the transmission and re-do this job. Also, if the "repair" seal you are using is the orange Victor, I'd advise not using it... I had one of those push out of place a few hundred miles after installing, as it was "too loose". Alternately you could use a thin coat of Loctite 5900 or RightStuff on the outer edge to glue it in place. The OE seal is a very, very tight fit.

 

[gerryvz]

I recommend using either MB OE seals, or Elring or Corteco for the front and rear crank seals.

However, from what I am seeing, at least the Elring rear seal is now made in China. Front seems to still be made in Italy.

Corteco seals for front and rear seem to be made in Italy.

You shouldn't need the repair size for the seal, if you offset the depth of the seal as the @gsxr described above.

Rear seal part number: 120 997 02 46

Front seal part number: 120 997 03 46

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If you have the rear cover off, you can carefully install the rear seal in it even without a press. I did it some years back on an M104 engine with hand tools - you can see more about it in this post. If I had to do it all over again, I would probably put a small piece of plywood on top of the seal before softly hammering it into the rear seal carrier, to help distribute the blows. (There was no issue with what I did, but hindsight is 20/20).

 

[500AMM]

I have a badly leaking front seal on the transmission so it has to split/pulled back for replacement, and all the "while being in there" things has to be taken as well and this seal is upon the list. Short question about that tool, is it PN# 119 589 01 14 00 or 117 589 00 43 00 or both?

.

 

[Uni Baller]

The 119 number is for front part (also a miller 9101 works) that's what I am hunting for. The 117 part is the rear. I'm also hunting for this tool

 

[gsxr]

I have a badly leaking front seal on the transmission so it has to split/pulled back for replacement, and all the "while being in there" things has to be taken as well and this seal is upon the list. Short question about that tool, is it PN# 119 589 01 14 00 or 117 589 00 43 00 or both?

Arnt,

119-589-01-14-00 (or Miller 9101) is the tool for FRONT crank seal. It will install flush or inset 3mm (click here for pics showing how to use it).

117-589-00-43-00 is the tool for REAR crank seal. It is meant to only install the seal flush, and cannot inset, AFAIK.

 

[gsxr]

BTW, if anyone can confirm if either or both of the tools are still available new from a dealer (contacting a live person - not checking online), please let us know.

Also, if someone were to buy these new and use them once, I'm sure they would have a number of people willing to buy them afterwards. Consider the lost $$ as a 'rental' fee, if you don't want to keep them.

 

[LWB250]

BTW, if anyone can confirm if either or both of the tools are still available new from a dealer (contacting a live person - not checking online), please let us know.

Also, if someone were to buy these new and use them once, I'm sure they would have a number of people willing to buy them afterwards. Consider the lost $$ as a 'rental' fee, if you don't want to keep them.

I reached out to my dealer guy. I'll let you know what I hear.

Dan

 

[gerryvz]

Again, as I mentioned, the rear seal tool IS NOT REQUIRED to install the seal. It can very definitely be done without the tool, and particularly if the seal carrier is removed from the rear of the engine. Pressing this seal in is not a rocket-science or highly precision operation. It only takes a couple of minutes to do whether using a rubber mallet, or a hydraulic shop press, or the factory tool. I just hate to see someone spend a ton of $$$ on a tool for a simple operation that can be accomplished multiple ways WITHOUT the need for the tool.

It's much more important to have a good quality seal that fits correctly/tightly, and doesn't leak after installation.

Other special tools, such as the factory tool that holds the cam adjuster on the M119, M103 and M120, is indeed a huge time and finger/hand-saver, and well worth the money paid. But I will be really honest with you, this rear seal press tool is really, honestly NOT needed as long as you take care pressing the seal the few millimeters into the seal carrier.

The front seal situation is a bit different. The front seal tool gives you a lot of control, so for that one I would recommend the Miller or factory tool whether the engine is in or out of the car. You need this control when installing the front seal to offset it carefully.

 

[gsxr]

The rear seal can be installed as Gerry showed above if the rear carrier is removed. No special tools needed.

To replace the rear seal on the car with carrier installed, I would not attempt this without the special tool, in particular if using the OE/Genuine Bruss seal, which is an extremely tight fit. I mean, so tight it was almost warping the seal when installing with the proper tool. If using the loose-fitting orange Victor seal, then yep, that might install on the car without much fuss... and then slowly slide out after a few hours of operation. BT, DT, and I wouldn't use that seal again without adding adhesive to lock it in place.

Oh yeah, if re-using the flywheel-to-crank bolts, you need to use a sealant that will keep the oil out. I strongly recommend new bolts if you don't want to risk repeating the job; or risk a slight oil leak afterwards. I had mixed results with either threadlock or anaerobic sealant on the threads of re-used bolts. New ones have micro-encapsulated sealant pre-applied.

 

[gerryvz]

I have a badly leaking front seal on the transmission so it has to split/pulled back for replacement, and all the "while being in there" things has to be taken as well and this seal is upon the list. Short question about that tool, is it PN# 119 589 01 14 00 or 117 589 00 43 00 or both?

.

Arnt, you can see how I used the Miller front seal tool when I did my own front seal with the engine in the car, back in 2020. Reference post is here. It's a very easy job once you get everything off the front of the engine and out of the way.

The @gsxr's site also provides some valuable supplemental reference information and photographs for front-seal replacement. You can see those photos here: Index of /images/M119/crank_seal

 

[Uni Baller]

I have a badly leaking front seal on the transmission so it has to split/pulled back for replacement, and all the "while being in there" things has to be taken as well and this seal is upon the list. Short question about that tool, is it PN# 119 589 01 14 00 or 117 589 00 43 00 or both?

.

i have aquired the miller 9101 from ebay. when i receive it and i use it on the 2 timing covers i have i will be putting it up for sale here!!

 

[JC220]

I have 2x of these m119 front Crank seal install tools.

I could sell one for £40gbp + post. I can ship to USA etc no problem.

The one I have I can get photos of in morning if any interest, it is not genuine MB tool but identical - it is black tool finish not polished. (Makes no difference)

 

[500AMM]

i have aquired the miller 9101 from ebay. when i receive it and i use it on the 2 timing covers i have i will be putting it up for sale here!!

Thanks, I am interested, lets get in touch on PM.

.

 

[500AMM]

Arnt,

119-589-01-14-00 (or Miller 9101) is the tool for FRONT crank seal. It will install flush or inset 3mm (click here for pics showing how to use it).

117-589-00-43-00 is the tool for REAR crank seal. It is meant to only install the seal flush, and cannot inset, AFAIK.

View attachment 157595 View attachment 157596 View attachment 157597 View attachment 157598 View attachment 157599

I was browsing and came across a Miller 9100 rear crank seal tool, does it fit the M119 or does it just have the same design?
(I thought if 9100-2 is split, that press plate/flange can be used inside 9100-1.)

 

[gsxr]

I was browsing and came across a Miller 9100 rear crank seal tool, does it fit the M119 or does it just have the same design?
(I thought if 9100-2 is split, that press plate/flange can be used inside 9100-1.)

View attachment 157647

Miller 9100 will work with the smaller 93mm rear crank seals on many 4/5/6 cylinder engines. It is equivalent to MB tool 111-589-08-43-00.

The V8 and V12 engines have a larger 100mm rear crank seal and use a tool of similar design, but larger diameter.

 

[500AMM]

Gerry and Dave - many thanks for good advice!

Again, as I mentioned, the rear seal tool IS NOT REQUIRED to install the seal. It can very definitely be done without the tool, and particularly if the seal carrier is removed from the rear of the engine. Pressing this seal in is not a rocket-science or highly precision operation. It only takes a couple of minutes to do whether using a rubber mallet, or a hydraulic shop press, or the factory tool. I just hate to see someone spend a ton of $$$ on a tool for a simple operation that can be accomplished multiple ways WITHOUT the need for the tool.

It's much more important to have a good quality seal that fits correctly/tightly, and doesn't leak after installation.

Other special tools, such as the factory tool that holds the cam adjuster on the M119, M103 and M120, is indeed a huge time and finger/hand-saver, and well worth the money paid. But I will be really honest with you, this rear seal press tool is really, honestly NOT needed as long as you take care pressing the seal the few millimeters into the seal carrier.

The front seal situation is a bit different. The front seal tool gives you a lot of control, so for that one I would recommend the Miller or factory tool whether the engine is in or out of the car. You need this control when installing the front seal to offset it carefully.

The front crank seal will be done as well because the front end will be partly stripped to sort out a number of things;
– install a completely new designed supercharger bracket, the old bracket is flexing too much and has a stoneage style belt tensioner
– upgrading to automatic belt tensioner which requires tapping the M8 hole in the front engine cover (the tab is in place) and replacing the AC pump bracket
– a leaking tandem pump will be replaced with a singel servo pump + the new style bracket due to disabling the SLS
– disabling the air pump and installing the replacement pully
– disabling the viscos fan and install W212 electrical cooling fan
– probably taking off the idler pulley & bracket for more space for the electric cooling fan and a different belt set-up for the supercharger.
It will be a busy winter!