M119 94 E420 no start (Carbon on valves)

[Klink]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Klink
Can you let me know why I need to floor the accelerator?


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To get as much airflow as possible. Your cylinders are likely flooded with gasoline. And as compression resumes, the extra air will help close the valves. And if my theory is correct, your engine will not "spring to life" at full throttle. If it does anything, it's going to start firing cylinder by cylinder until it finally gets a smooth enough to keep running. Even if it did "spring" to life, the multiple layers of rev limiter are not going to let anything bad happen.

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

To get as much airflow as possible. Your cylinders are likely flooded with gasoline. And as compression resumes, the extra air will help close the valves. And if my theory is correct, your engine will not "spring to life" at full throttle. If it does anything, it's going to start firing cylinder by cylinder until it finally gets a smooth enough to keep running. Even if it did "spring" to life, the multiple layers of rev limiter are not going to let anything bad happen.

Ok so I keep the fuel relay disconnected and then floor the accelerator while I crank?
You are correct about the fuel flooding. All spark plugs are covered in gas.

Merry Christmas everyone!! [emoji4]

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[lowman]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

well...very funny to see that some People here now are "surprised" that there is "no" or less compression...it really amazes me that no one almost wanted to suggest that a compression test would be the first thing to do when you hear this sound...shocked".


The NeXT thing is that you should take out aaaalll the spark plugs when you do the compression test...to let the car spin With the least amount of resistance ..to get the "Best " possible compression Reading on the cylinder you are testing.This is also why you have to keep the throttle pressed Down ..to make the car suck in as much air as possible...and NOT restricting the engine when spinning around for best possible compression on the specific cylinder

ITs veeery hard to say what the fault is...
But the NeXT thing you have to do..is a cylinder leak test...this is aaaalmost the same procedure ..or involving the same Equipment as the compression test...but here the thing is about turning the engine clockwise..until you get the piston on top of the compression stroke..and get a "compression"....then you would LISTEN back in the exhaust pipe....listen Down the oil filler cap....listen in the BREATHER hoses..to hear if you can hear where the compression is "leaking".

its a time consuming job...and its all about listening to WHERE THE HISSING/ PRESSURE SOUND is coming from.

But im pretty shure that this has to do With some VALVE/ LIFTER stuff...or at least i hope it is for you.

ONE easy thing you can do....is to take off BOTH valve covers...and have a Visual inspection on how it looks Down there..aaand to depress the valve lifters...to see if any one of them is "collapsed" inside...this you can do by pressing them when they are unloaded by the cam shaft..they should then be firm...if they are soft..then they are "fucked .

Even though it may not seem that good...at least you are onto something to find the fault

and im crossing my fingers for you..and still wishing you the best Luck ever possible


Also ..you should see if there is fuel in the cylinder..and if there is..get that out of there asap. blow it out....or just crank the engine With no sparkplugs in there.

 

[Raffaelli]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Best thing to do now, is to remove all the plugs, and let the motor air out.

Then pour a smidge of motor oil down each spark plug hole (like 1/4-1/2 shot glass) and redo a compression test. ( with a fully charged battery or a booster on it)

ive seen on one type of engine (a 4 cyl Nissan approx 03-07) that have a tendency to flood out and loose compression. Sometimes airing them out, doing a clear flood mode, or starting fluid can get them back started.

But my best guess is that a chain guide or tensioner failed and the chain jumped. I'm certain into an interference motor and some valves are likely bent. It's bad news, but it's one of those things...

 

[Ascension]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Klink is about as good on these as it gets IMO. Before you do absolutely anything else follow his suggestion!!
Unfortunately I have heard that sound before several times on my own cars so I immediately caught the compression issue. 2 times it was a broken timing chain or belt and once on a Volvo white block 6 that had flooded badly washed the cylinders down and "lawn mowered'. Klink knows these M119's much better than I do so follow his lead before you do anything else!!!

 

[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Klink is about as good on these as it gets IMO. Before you do absolutely anything else follow his suggestion!!

Yup - do what Klink said. And no, do not pull the fuel pump relay, the idea is to try and get the engine started, and it won't start without fuel.

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Well guys firstly Merry Christmas to you all!

I wil definitely be taking all of your advice..everything you guys have said will be checked or performed.

I'm thinking I'll check the camshaft timing first. At passenger side valve cover first. Crank pulley at 45 btdc and then try to see the whole lines up (the exhaust cam or intake?)

Then check the hydraulic lifters that are being pressed down by the cam lobes to check for a spongy feel.

Of course, if timing is off then the car will not start anyway and I will probably cause more engine damage by pressing the accelerator down to the bottom and cranking for 20 seconds..

So far thank you to every single one of you who has posted an opinion!! God Bless you.

Let's see how my further tests go and I'll report back. Might rain today so I may get limited work done on the street.

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[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

If you check cam timing first: The holes probably will not line up exactly at 45°. Keep turning the crank very very slowly (about 1 degree at a time) until you can slide the pin into place. Then read the number on the balancer.

You have access to the FSM, right? Link:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/Main.html

Direct link to checking basic cam timing, you can use a drill bit that is ~6mm diameter:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/119/05-2230.pdf


Lifters are easy to check with the valve cover off, press with your finger on any where the cam lobe is pointing UP (away from the lifter). You should not be able to push the lifter down with your finger.

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

If you check cam timing first: The holes probably will not line up exactly at 45°. Keep turning the crank very very slowly (about 1 degree at a time) until you can slide the pin into place. Then read the number on the balancer.

You have access to the FSM, right? Link:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/Main.html

Direct link to checking basic cam timing, you can use a drill bit that is ~6mm diameter:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/119/05-2230.pdf


Lifters are easy to check with the valve cover off, press with your finger on any where the cam lobe is pointing UP (away from the lifter). You should not be able to push the lifter down with your finger.

Awesome!
Will be doing this in saturday! Thank you all! Updates to follow and hopefully pictures if I find anything pertinent. [emoji106]

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[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Thank you to every single member so far, no matter what your input. I really appreciate it!! [emoji4]

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[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

well...very funny to see that some People here now are "surprised" that there is "no" or less compression...it really amazes me that no one almost wanted to suggest that a compression test would be the first thing to do when you hear this sound...shocked".


The NeXT thing is that you should take out aaaalll the spark plugs when you do the compression test...to let the car spin With the least amount of resistance ..to get the "Best " possible compression Reading on the cylinder you are testing.This is also why you have to keep the throttle pressed Down ..to make the car suck in as much air as possible...and NOT restricting the engine when spinning around for best possible compression on the specific cylinder

ITs veeery hard to say what the fault is...
But the NeXT thing you have to do..is a cylinder leak test...this is aaaalmost the same procedure ..or involving the same Equipment as the compression test...but here the thing is about turning the engine clockwise..until you get the piston on top of the compression stroke..and get a "compression"....then you would LISTEN back in the exhaust pipe....listen Down the oil filler cap....listen in the BREATHER hoses..to hear if you can hear where the compression is "leaking".

its a time consuming job...and its all about listening to WHERE THE HISSING/ PRESSURE SOUND is coming from.

But im pretty shure that this has to do With some VALVE/ LIFTER stuff...or at least i hope it is for you.

ONE easy thing you can do....is to take off BOTH valve covers...and have a Visual inspection on how it looks Down there..aaand to depress the valve lifters...to see if any one of them is "collapsed" inside...this you can do by pressing them when they are unloaded by the cam shaft..they should then be firm...if they are soft..then they are "fucked .

Even though it may not seem that good...at least you are onto something to find the fault

and im crossing my fingers for you..and still wishing you the best Luck ever possible


Also ..you should see if there is fuel in the cylinder..and if there is..get that out of there asap. blow it out....or just crank the engine With no sparkplugs in there.

[emoji106] [emoji4]

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[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Ah man!
That annoying rear bolt on the passenger valve cover!
I don't have the tool.
So have to wait until tomorrow to open it and see what happened.
I'm guessing the chain guide broke.
Based in what I have learned from this forum.

Place your bets!


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[lowman]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

im guessing the Can Bus wire from the battery "just jokin"

hard to say whats wrong..but hoping its something that does not have to do With timing gear..the best would be the lifters ..but check the timing first ..and take it from there Stay positive.at the end of the day...its just a car..
Cheers

 

[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

If you haven't yet started to pull the valve covers, it might be worth trying Klink's suggestion... which is free and easy. Make sure the battery is FULLY charged, even better if you can have a second battery connected via booster cables.

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

im guessing the Can Bus wire from the battery "just jokin"

hard to say whats wrong..but hoping its something that does not have to do With timing gear..the best would be the lifters ..but check the timing first ..and take it from there Stay positive.at the end of the day...its just a car..
Cheers

Lowman
Thank you for the supportive words.
I mean that.
I guess because I'm going through several life issues at the moment I'm taking it a bit badly! [emoji107] [emoji4]

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[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

If you haven't yet started to pull the valve covers, it might be worth trying Klink's suggestion... which is free and easy. Make sure the battery is FULLY charged, even better if you can have a second battery connected via booster cables.

Gsxr
I'm just worried about screwing up the the valves even more, if that is possible.
So I'm thinking I should just take the valve covers off and have a look first. I may see some damaged guide rails. Or chain. I'll check the timing. Just want to turn the crankshaft bolt. I think I should put the arm under the car because I can't see some space to do it from above the car.
But anyway in a.few hours I should have a good idea of what's up!

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[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

It's not possible to turn the crank from above, without removing the fan+clutch (which requires some special tools, if you have the OE Sachs/Horton clutch). You can access from below with the fan+clutch installed but it's very tight. You'll need a 27mm socket and appropriate length extensions. Problem is... you can't read the balancer while you turn from below, so you'll either need to do it very slowly, or get some assistance. Once you find the 45° BTDC mark above, highlight it with white/yellow/orange paint pen (White-Out might work in a pinch). If you're doing the work by yourself, add another mark from below so you have some idea where things are up top when you can't see it.

That said... with the cranking you've been doing already, IF there was any damage done, I don't think you're going to make it any worse by cranking more. If Klink's trick works, it would save you several hours of effort...

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Hi guys
From what I understood about checking the timing I set the crankshaft pulley at 45 Before TDC. Then the 6mm bolt is supposed to fit through the the top plastic thong and into the inlet and exhaust cam gears right?

Well I rotated the engine probably 8 or 9 times. Rotated with normal resistance even though I only removed one spark plug. Felt normal compared to when done before.

Chain is NOT broken. The top guide rails didn't look broken but I could see too far down as I didn't have a very powerful light.

Please see this video and and another video I took. In both video the crankshaft pulley us at 45 BTDC

https://youtu.be/G7Yl0Qoi_RQ

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[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Hey guys this the second video. I mainly made this video to show the postion of the Camshaft lobes with the crankshaft at 45 BTDC.

I'M hoping that any experienced members can tell if the intake and exhaust valves are being pressed down at the wrong time.

I'm not v experienced with V8 engines. Worked quite a bit on m272 but then again the markings and everything were simple.

Hope I can get some advice. Unfortunately I will not be able to test any more until next Thursday possibly due to work.

Thank you to absolutely everyone who has helped with any advice.

A special thank you to Jeff in Orange County for having so many spare parts for this car! Awesome guy.

https://youtu.be/NusS5zY5HtI

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[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Yes, the hole you point to in the video is where the 6mm pin should be inserted. You did look at the PDF file linked back in post #108, right? It shows exactly what you are asking about.

Remember the pins will usually NOT go in at exactly 45° BTDC, unless you have a brand new chain and all new guide rails. Also, there are multiple holes on the back of the cam flange, the one you point to that is a couple inches away is NOT the correct hole. Also triple-check to make sure you have the balancer at 45 BTDC, not 45 ATDC. The idea is to pin the cam(s), then read the number off the balancer.

The hole for the 6mm pin is at the outer edge of the cam flange. The other holes are larger diameter. See attached photo.

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Yes, the hole you point to in the video is where the 6.5mm pin should be inserted. You did look at the PDF file linked back in post #108, right? It shows exactly what you are asking about.

Remember the pins will usually NOT go in at exactly 45° BTDC, unless you have a brand new chain and all new guide rails. Also, there are multiple holes on the back of the cam flange, the one you point to that is a couple inches away is NOT the correct hole. Also triple-check to make sure you have the balancer at 45 BTDC, not 45 ATDC. The idea is to pin the cam(s), then read the number off the balancer.

The hole for the 6.5mm pin is at the outer edge of the cam flange. The other holes are larger diameter. See attached photo.

I see.....thank u Dave!

Yes I need to spend a few mins paying close attention to this. I guess that is the wrong hole I was looking at.

I definitely put the crankshaft at 45 Before top dead center. I did it many times just to make sure I wasn't doing it wrong.

I guess I will spend some time checking this all out on Thursday morning.

Thank you Dave.

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[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

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[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

All pics are with the crankshaft at 45 BTDC

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[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

OK, next step is to find the correct hole on the camshaft flange, and insert the pin. Then read the number off the balancer. When you can insert the pin on one cam, pretty likely the pin will insert on the other cam (on the same side) as well.

 

[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Photos attached showing more detail of the cams pinned on the right/passenger side camshafts.

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Photos attached showing more detail of the cams pinned on the right/passenger side camshafts.

Dave
All I can say is one word
Perfect!

The pics are so clear! I can't wait to get on with it on Thursday morning!

I will come back with updates! [emoji4] [emoji106]

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[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

I totally forgot to mention something kinda important:

The crank rotates twice for each one rotation of the camshafts. It is very likely you were one full crank rotation off at 45° indicated, since the 6mm cam flange holes were nowhere in sight. From the position shown in your photo, you would rotate the crank 1 full turn forward to indicated 45° BTDC (again). IOW, you were at the wrong 45° BTDC, lol. Hopefully this time the correct holes will be close, and you can then turn ~1° at a time (to 44, 43, 42, etc) until the cam pins... then read the balancer again.

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

I totally forgot to mention something kinda important:

The crank rotates twice for each one rotation of the camshafts. It is very likely you were one full crank rotation off at 45° indicated, since the 6mm cam flange holes were nowhere in sight. From the position shown in your photo, you would rotate the crank 1 full turn forward to indicated 45° BTDC (again). IOW, you were at the wrong 45° BTDC, lol. Hopefully this time the correct holes will be close, and you can then turn ~1° at a time (to 44, 43, 42, etc) until the cam pins... then read the balancer again.

Hey u were 100% correct abkut turning the crankshaft a further full rotation.

Ok I've got the timing results now. I made a video and here it is:

[video=youtube_share;u5t_sQV1toU]https://youtu.be/u5t_sQV1toU[/video]

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

I'm hoping you guys will be able to tell approximately how many degrees the timing is off. And how many teeth that equates to.

I am learning fast and I appreciate you sharing your experience!
Happy New Year!

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[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Good news: If the cams pin with the balancer as shown in your video, your timing chain has not jumped. Each line on the balancer is 5°. Looks like you have about 7° of chain stretch, if the pointer is indicating 38° BTDC, which is what it appears to be in the video.

Pretty likely the cause of the ~7° difference is the ends of the chain rails snapped off inside the "V" of the heads, below the intake sprocket where you can't see very well. Click here for a photo of the top of the rail broken off (usually can't see the bottom without taking the cam adjuster off, or removing the intake cam - don't worry about it). The engine will run just fine with the cams 6-8° off and no, this is not cause your low compression readings.

Based on this new info, it is looking more likely that Klink was right, and you might have the carbon problem causing the valves/lifters to stick...

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

So this much chain stretch is ok?
Should I not replace the timing chain?

As for the broken guide rails, do u think I can replace them without taking the timing cover off?
I will look for the images of the possible rails u think are broken and I'll post them here.

So Carbon build up in the valve lifters can make them stuck?
I can probably tell if they are stuck by rotating the engine right?
Maybe I can either replace the lifters or get some kind if carbon removal stuff?

Thanks so far for the advice!

 

[lowman]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

just by looking at the state of how the engine looks inside..its not far from the truth that you may have stuck valves because of the carbon buildup.It does not look good.

hopefully you can now do the valve lifter test and see if any of them are soft..


happy new years soon by the way

 

[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

So this much chain stretch is ok?

Yup.

Should I not replace the timing chain?

Nope.

As for the broken guide rails, do u think I can replace them without taking the timing cover off? I will look for the images of the possible rails u think are broken and I'll post them here.

You can change the rails without removing the timing cover but it is a HUGE job. If you have lots of time to kill, go for it. If you just want to get the engine running again, worry about it later.

So Carbon build up in the valve lifters can make them stuck? I can probably tell if they are stuck by rotating the engine right? Maybe I can either replace the lifters or get some kind if carbon removal stuff?

I don't know exactly. Klink is the expert here, I'd go back and re-read his posts. My understanding is carbon can make the valve not close fully, which causes the lifters to over-fill and then prevent the valve from closing. I would do exactly what he said in his post with the extended cranking while holding the throttle open, and see if you can get the engine running again.

 

[Klink]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

So far, so good. But, remember, soft lifters will only cause noises on this engine. They will not keep it from starting, so don't get too carried away down that route. For what it's worth, I have only seen about 3 bad bucket tappet style lifters on MB 104,119 and 120 engines EVER, and I have been working on them since they were introduced.

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

So far, so good. But, remember, soft lifters will only cause noises on this engine. They will not keep it from starting, so don't get too carried away down that route. For what it's worth, I have only seen about 3 bad bucket tappet style lifters on MB 104,119 and 120 engines EVER, and I have been working on them since they were introduced.

Hi Klink
Cute cat pic by the way.

I checked the valve lifters on the passenger side and all of them are very firm. No softness or movement. Exhaust and intake.

So im not sure if I'm supposed to do the extended cranking thing or not at this point.

From what gsxr said, it appears the valves will not hit the pistons because the timing is not off by too much.

Now I can't discount the low compression. Was much lower on the passenger side than the drivers side.

This is driving me a little nuts.

What is causing the low compression?






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[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

I checked the valve lifters on the passenger side and all of them are very firm. No softness or movement. Exhaust and intake.

So im not sure if I'm supposed to do the extended cranking thing or not at this point. Now I can't discount the low compression. ... What is causing the low compression?

Klink explained the cause and solution back in post #85 and 99. What I'm not sure of is if the phenomenon (which I've never seen personally) can affect most or all cylinders simultaneously. (Klink?)

... the low compression. Was much lower on the passenger side than the drivers side.

You only tested 5 cylinders, and only 1 on the driver side, and it was only 40-50psi higher... not a valid comparison. Normal compression on a hot engine is usually in the 180-190psi range, assuming you are near sea level.

Another possibility is a completely plugged exhaust, which I think might cause the low compression readings, along with slow cranking, and keep the engine from starting. Not sure how this could happen but I wouldn't rule it out yet. At least check for a banana in the tailpipe, a la Beverly Hills Cop...

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Klink explained the cause and solution back in post #85 and 99.

Ok...let me scroll back. I suppose I didn't fully understand. Never seen or heard of this problem before [emoji107]

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[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Never seen or heard of this problem before...

Me neither! But Klink has forgotten more about the M119 than I'll ever know, and if he's seen it multiple times, I'd try what he says...

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Me neither! But Klink has forgotten more about the M119 than I'll ever know, and if he's seen it multiple times, I'd try what he says...

I like your use of the icons gsxr! [emoji2]

Well I am in no way arguing with Klink s opinion. At this point it seems like he could be right. I have no other ideas!

And if you guys are right then I may be lucky and not have to take the heads of to replace valves!

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[lowman]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

So far, so good. But, remember, soft lifters will only cause noises on this engine. They will not keep it from starting, so don't get too carried away down that route. For what it's worth, I have only seen about 3 bad bucket tappet style lifters on MB 104,119 and 120 engines EVER, and I have been working on them since they were introduced.

i agreee With you there actually...im mixing it up with STUCK lifters.sorry

 

[lowman]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Yup.




I don't know exactly. Klink is the expert here,

But you have more "posts"?...

 

[Klink]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

i agreee With you there actually...im mixing it up with STUCK lifters.sorry

I knew exactly what you were talking about, and that you know the difference. I was simply trying to clarify, as I could imagine the OP discovering a soft lifter or two and incorrectly thinking "Great! I just found my problem!"

 

[Klink]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

I like your use of the icons gsxr! [emoji2]

Well I am in no way arguing with Klink s opinion. At this point it seems like he could be right. I have no other ideas!

And if you guys are right then I may be lucky and not have to take the heads of to replace valves!

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It is extremely unlikely that you have any kind of valve or block damage. The overwhelming likelihood is that your valves have been stuck open by carbon, with pumped up lifters now holding some open, and/or a sticking oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump caused your lifters to pump open immediately upon cold engine start up.

Each of these is a condition that I and my colleagues have seen countless times on the M119...

 

[Klink]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

But you have more "posts"?...

Indeed, he does! I have the title "postwhore posterchild" due to post length, not due to post frequency ...

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

It is extremely unlikely that you have any kind of valve or block damage. The overwhelming likelihood is that your valves have been stuck open by carbon, with pumped up lifters now holding some open, and/or a sticking oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump caused your lifters to pump open immediately upon cold engine start up.

Each of these is a condition that I and my colleagues have seen countless times on the M119...

Happy new Year everybody!

I hope that I may get a chance to test this out today. I actually just moved home and the car is still in its place.

So hopefully I can drive down there and try the extended cranking with the pedal pressed to the floor. Do I need to activating the kick down switch?

By the way how does one.get rid of the carbon build up?

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[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

By the way guys

I strtd using mercedes 5w30 full stn engine oil about 2500 miles ago.

I was using 5w40 fully syn liquidmoly before that.

So do u think this thinned oil may have caused an issue?

 

[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

By the way guys

I strtd using mercedes 5w30 full stn engine oil about 2500 miles ago.

I was using 5w40 fully syn liquidmoly before that.

So u think this thinned oil may have caused an issue?

Very unlikely, unless excessive oil consumption plugged the catalysts. You mentioned the engine burns/consumes oil, how often did you need to add oil? Meaning, how many miles per quart? One quart every 1000 miles? 500? Less?

 

[samm]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Very unlikely, unless excessive oil consumption plugged the catalysts. You mentioned the engine burns/consumes oil, how often did you need to add oil? Meaning, how many miles per quart? One quart every 1000 miles? 500? Less?

Since I started using the 5w 30 fully synthetic I added 1 liter of oil. About 1200 miles after the oil change. And now again it was on minimum, at this point less than 2500 miles since the change.

When I was using 5w 40 liquid mloy fully synthetic the engine hardly used up oil. I mean I think I added half a liter in 9500 miles

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[gsxr]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

Since I started using the 5w 30 fully synthetic I added 1 liter of oil. About 1200 miles after the oil change. And now again it was on minimum, at this point less than 2500 miles since the change.

When I was using 5w 40 liquid mloy fully synthetic the engine hardly used up oil. I mean I think I added half a liter in 9500 miles

ok, so it wasn't drinking large amounts of oil - that's good. I wouldn't worry about what oil to use until after you get the engine running again. Let us know what happens after you try Klink's procedure...

 

[Klink]

Re: m119 94 E420 no start

If you can just get your engine started one time, it will probably be fine, especially if the issue is detached carbon deposits, as is most common with the syndrome. Your oil choice and oil consumption are not issues. If this happens repeatedly on cold starts, then there is a good chance you have a sticking pressure relief valve in your oil pump.

I also forgot to mention that if you try my suggestion you may find that as the engine starts to fire regularly and run it will probably rattle like the hammers of hell. The noise is generated by carbon pieces flying around the cylinders. It will diminish as the carbon gets broken up and makes its way into the exhaust system.