Weird idle /shifting through gears after replacing all the PVC hoses?

[Alex89]

So today I replaced all of the hoses under the air filter housing and the one coming from the throttle body too. Throttle body was filthy. I used new gasket when I put back the TB too.

So after the job was done, I let the car idle for 10 min- perfectly fine. Than I drove it and after maybe 10minutes it started acting up. First it started slightly lurching right before I come to a complete stop and when I am pulling away from a complete stop.

After that I put the car in neutral, car idling started going up and down from 900 to 1400. When I put in reverse and back to N car kind of slams into gear and idles the same way. I left the car in neutral or park and car was ideling at 900 and when I would depress the brake it would jump to 1300, I repeated few times and than stopped. When I got out of the car I can smell burnt rubber or plastic.

What can it be? Some hose got loose? Maybe TB gasket? Can it also bee the TB wiring, is that one bio gradable too? MAF?

I really dont know what it is and I just changed the harness recently and car worked great until today.

 

[S70/2]

Do you have a non-soy replacement ETA?

 

[Alex89]

Non-soy?
I dont have a replacement ETA.

 

[Stevester 500E]

Hi Alex,
It seems odd that you would have a rubber smell from ETA issues, but it could happen I suppose.
Can you check the date code on the white label at the top of the ETA throttle body?
I am curious to see if you have an updated ETA or if your ETA is original with the biodegradable wiring.
Do you have the pancake connector or the straight barrel style connector?

I had an ETA go bad on me in an M104, it had a surging idle at one point, and then it would go to a very low idle. The wire insulation of the ETA pigtail wires were toast ! But I don't recall ever encountering the smell of rubber.

 

[Alex89]

I left the ETA plugged while cleaning it and twisting it so its very possible it got messed up because if it.

I will check the code and type of the connector tomorrow when I get up but I think mine said 93' on the ETA but I will double check.

Maybe I can send it to someone to rewire it. I tried to find contact info for that guy Victor in Astoria NY but I couldn't access it. I was just in NY for 3 weeks for work, wish this happened before,maybe I could have went there in person .

 

[sheward]

Check with Johnathan at Blue Ridge Mercedes here in Atlanta for rebuilding your ETA.
Drew

 

[Alex89]

Thx, I just messaged him.

 

[Alex89]

I just checked, my ETA is 94' and its a round plug.
I was thinking about the rubber smell, can it be because of the new rubber hoses?

 

[S70/2]

Probably more likely melting wire insulation from shorting out, give your ETA loom a slice open and see the horror

 

[gsxr]

The idle speed issue sounds like a large vacuum leak to me... indicating that a hose or tube is damaged or disconnected. There shouldn't have been funny smells either. Make sure to trace EVERY tube related to the intake; not just the rubber PCV hoses, but also the Tecalan (plastic) tubes that run through the center of the intake (EZL vac source to the rear of the intake, black 8mm tube from regen valve near the EZL).

Is this a non-ASR E420, btw? I'd have expected limp mode on an ASR car. Also need to check codes...

 

[Alex89]

Yea I looked at all the hoses today and didnt see anything bad. put everything back together and started the car it idled at about 900-1k but when I change gears it slams into gears and in P and N it idles at about 1500...

I ordered the code reader so I will see what codes I get....Yes it 94' e420 non ASR.

I am looking for a ETA too since if its not it its bound to happen sometime in the future...

 

[sheward]

I happen to have a good non-asr ETA for sale. It has the round or pancake style connector. I will post it in the for sale section.

Drew

 

[gsxr]

FYI... the 92-93 (USA model year) cars use the larger / round "pancake" style connector.

94-95 (USA model year) use the smaller, cylindrical-shaped connector.

Non-ASR ETA's with late datecodes are relatively difficult to locate, if needed...

 

[doolar]

FYI... the 92-93 (USA model year) cars use the larger / round "pancake" style connector.

94-95 (USA model year) use the smaller, cylindrical-shaped connector.

Non-ASR ETA's with late datecodes are relatively difficult to locate, if needed...

Do we know if the connectors are switchable? I'm eyeing Drews ETA as a second spare unit, but I need the late style connector.

 

[gsxr]

Do we know if the connectors are switchable? I'm eyeing Drews ETA as a second spare unit, but I need the late style connector.

Yes, if you have soldering skills.

But I only know of the early type connector+pigtail available new from MB. I've never found a part number for the late style connector, new from MB...

 

[sheward]

Yes, Alex89 stated that his car is a 94my and has the round plug which did not seem correct to me. I know of a local owner in need of the non ASR ETA with the straight connector who cannot locate one. He thought for a few moments about switching connectors but it seemed overwhelming to both of us.

drew

 

[Alex89]

Ok I am not familiar how those connectors look like but this is mine, it seem round to me...




I just ordered ETA and should get it by Sat for sure. Cant wait to change it and see if it helps.

 

[gsxr]

The early large / round connector is shown in the photo below. Both are round... just shaped differently!

View attachment 5945

 

[Alex89]

Yea I see the difference now...I guess mine is cylindrical shape connector than, sorry for the confusion

 

[sheward]

Hope it solves your issues!

Drew

 

[Alex89]

....but also the Tecalan (plastic) tubes that run through the center of the intake (EZL vac source to the rear of the intake, black 8mm tube from regen valve near the EZL).

What is the part number of this plastic tube, I just saw its cracked from installing ETA so that might be my problem? Or hat is it called, I have a MB dealership mile away from my house so I can go and get it hopefully...

This one...

 

[sheward]

000-158-14-35 4mm tubing. Ordered by the meter.

drew

 

[Alex89]

Thx, I was able to get it and replace it. Put the new ETA in and car is doing the same thing, just not as bad.

When its in P or N rpm keeps jumping from 1000 to 1100 just as if I was pushing the gas slightly and letting it go...I have no idea what to look at now. Do I need to erase any codes for it to be gone, can it be as simple as that?

 

[Alex89]

I just read codes and I got 6 flashes when tested pin #3...Trying to figure out what that is...Never used the code reader before.

Update:I read the wrong pins....I just realized I have 38 pin one, not sure why I have 8pin connector also ....But the pins are so small, not sure how to check codes with the reader, reader has much wider jacks...I guess I will order the correct reader.

 

[S70/2]

I would check to see how much vacuum you are making at idle

 

[gsxr]

I just read codes and I got 6 flashes when tested pin #3...Trying to figure out what that is...Never used the code reader before.

Update:I read the wrong pins....I just realized I have 38 pin one, not sure why I have 8pin connector also ....But the pins are so small, not sure how to check codes with the reader, reader has much wider jacks...I guess I will order the correct reader.

The 8-pin connector on the V8 cars allows access to the DM (diagnostic module) only, with a built-in LED and button. This lets you see what code is triggering a CEL on the cluster, without the need for a separate blink code reader. However, to check any of the other modules you need a hand-held blinker box or a digital scanner.

You can get a blink code reader with 1mm pins but it's a PITA to get them into the correct sockets. I'd recommend that instead, you use your existing reader with 4mm pins, and buy a breakout box that plugs into the 38-pin socket... photo attached of an aftermarket unit, around $50 or so.

 

[Alex89]

How do I check how much vacuum I am making?

Yea great idea, I just ordered breakout box, didnt even now it exists.
Car is driving me crazy. Today it didnt want to start, lights and sound is on, starter clicks like crazy but car wont turn over and start at all.

After I ran car last time I "read" codes on that 8 pin connector and after that it wont start now.

Before I buy the code reader, does anyone have any suggestions... MAF was changed in April.

Looks like its something with ignition, or can it be distributors or similar? I also thought about unplugging EZL vacuum line while car is running and see what happens, but car wont start now. I even tried to jump it but no luck...

Cant wait for the code tool...Anybody has any idea what can it be?

Thx!

 

[Hakie]

Batterie full charged? A clicking starter is a bad batterie on my 400E

 

[Alex89]

Hm I tried to jump start it and it didnt work, I will try again soon but all the lights are on in the car too and even the noise is there when I put the key in the ignition...

 

[Alex89]

So I tried to jump start the car again and at first iT didnt want to turn over but after 10min of sitting and charging I tried again and it did not turn over until I gave it some gas as I was turning the car on...And it finally started.

Car idles fine until it kinda warms up and once I go through gears than it revs between 1000 and 1100 only in park. So while it was reeving like that I went and disconnected that EZL hose and car idled perfect. As soon as I put it back on it starts revving again.

I just pulled up a little bit and backed up in my driveway and noticed that my brake is acting up, like there is air in the system, it doesn't stop very well...Did I brake maybe some vacuum leak to brakes or something... I am really puzzled.

 

[S70/2]

The vacuum leak is causing your brake booster to be weak, a smoke/fog test will show you where the leak is. Double check all the lines on the intake manifold, one is either disconnected or broken.

 

[Alex89]

Hm, I hope its something that minor but it does make sense. I looked at all the plastic vacuum lines and they looked good. I was looking today again for broken lines and couldn't find anything.

Is there a diagram for those lines or does anyone have a picture I can see?

 

[Alex89]

So after hearing a some good things about Herndon's Auto shop in Jax Fl, I wanted to take my car there and they told me they don't want to mess with it and recommended me to someone else...that recommended person wasn't willing either haha. I guess I will check codes next, check brake booster vacuum somehow and go from there.

 

[jhodg5ck]

sure sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

Someone should be willing to smoke your intake, that doesn't take anything terribly Special..just a cap for the MAF sensor so the intake can pressurize.

Realistically, a 30 minute ordeal from utter start to finish....just need to have the tool. Call around and ask shops in your area if they have a smoke machine/would be willing to smoke your intake...doesn't need to be MB specific.

Jono

 

[Alex89]

Thx, I think so too after all the help here. I am getting my converter box on Thr so I will wait to read the codes first. After that I will take it somewhere, it just sucks driving it since it idles high in and brakes are not very good now. I am even thinking about maybe taking it to the dealership just to test it since its so close to my house.

Or maybe even try it myself.

Thx for all the help!

 

[gsxr]

If your brakes are affected, that sounds like a BIG vacuum leak. Have you traced the main vacuum pipe between the brake booster and the engine? You would have had to disconnect it from the metal pipes, and remove the metal pipes from the intake, to get the ETA in & out. A cheap way to check for intake leaks is to spray solvent / carb cleaner towards a suspected leak area with the engine running and see if the idle speed changes; although I'm not sure if that will be useful with a high idle.

 

[jhodg5ck]

Dave got back here before me, but checking codes is a waste of time with this problem. Plus, codes on these cars are Helpful but they are not a golden ticket to fixing your car w/o Thinking.

Per dave, you have a vacuum issue. Solvent works, but it can be tricky w/ that Large MAF right there to get a clear spray that doesn't get sucked into the intake w/ or w/o a leak. That's where smoke is handy.

You Could see it if you had actual value/lamda on an HHT/SDS but that's another level.


Get your intake smoked or start double/triple checking your work.

jono

 

[Alex89]

Thank you guys, I am due for a smoke test tomorrow morning. I was thinking about those 2 metal pipes right in front of ETA but didn't get to check them since its always dark and late when I get home from work. I hope I will know exactly what it is tomorrow.

So back to those hoses in front of ETA. One is vacuum hose, what is the other one that's bolted with 2 screws/bolts?

I checked brake vacuum hose and didn't really see anything wrong with it.

 

[gsxr]

So back to those hoses in front of ETA. One is vacuum hose, what is the other one that's bolted with 2 screws/bolts?

A photo would help, but that sounds kinda like the EGR tube.

 

[Alex89]

This hose...I wouldnt be surprised if I damaged it, now thinking about it...

How hard is it to replace it, where is the other end of it? I will try to check it when I get home tonight. And whats the pat # for it?

 

[nocfn]

Dont underestimate the brake hose. M117 it is on the back of the engine. While removing it to get to some linkage. It Cracked in half. Replacing it I found heat fractures all underside. So actually check that booster hose and both connections for leaks. YMMV

 

[gsxr]

This hose...I wouldnt be surprised if I damaged it, now thinking about it...

How hard is it to replace it, where is the other end of it? I will try to check it when I get home tonight. And whats the pat # for it?

That's the EGR tube... pretty difficult to damage. I'm not sure how much work is required to replace it, never had to mess with one!

 

[Alex89]

I will double check the brake hose but I did inspect it pretty good last night and it seemed very good. My car has only 58-9k miles so it has not seen too much heat I guess.

Yea EGR tube seemed pretty sturdy so when I was replacing ETA I didn't mind touching it a little, which makes me believe that maybe I did little too much to it...I guess I will find out tomorrow, can't wait to find out what stupid thing caused this problem.

 

[Alex89]

So my code reader came in tonight, I got these codes:

Pin 8: Codes, 5,9,10,11,12,13 (Max temp exceeded, Open circuit on N3/1, and 4 fuses open circuit for ETA. I checked the fuses they look perfect)

Pin 19: Codes, 6,17 (Idle speed control inoperative, data exchange malfunction between individual control modules)


Pin 30: Code 8 (Airbag voltage supply circuit 15R)


Not sure what to think now...Anybody have any experience with these codes? I am reluctant now to drive it 2 miles to the shop that is going to do my vacuum test.

Thx!

 

[gsxr]

Alex, that's the typical code diarrhea when codes haven't been checked or cleared in years. Clear everything, verify they are all cleared (may need to re-start the engine to get Pin 19 codes cleared), then drive the car a bit and see which codes return. I suspect you'll get code 6 on pin 19 (idle speed control) again but let's see what happens. Is your CEL on in the cluster? Zero codes from the LH module (pin 4)?

 

[Alex89]

I just did it...New codes...

Pin 6, code 13 (Brake lamp switch (S9/1)
Pin 7, codes 2 and 5 (CC/ISC control module (N4/3),stop lamp switch)
Pin 19, code 6 (Idle speed control inoperative)

So does this mean its ETA or its just throwing codes (Pin 19-6 and pin 7-2) because it cant operate correctly because of a possible vacuum leak?

I dont have a CEL on a cluster.

Update: I just remembered I had to change the brake light light bulb 2 months ago and thats probably why I have those 2 related codes since I didnt erase them the first time.

 

[gsxr]

Those codes do seem to indicate an issue with the brake lamp switch, but it's hard to tell if there is something else going on because pin 7 blink code 2 can have 12 different meanings. This is where a digital scanner comes in handy. Only pin 7 has this issue, btw... for all the other modules, the blink code only has one meaning. Note the attached image is specifically for non-ASR vehicles.

I'd at least check the adjustment on S9/1, if not replace it proactively...

 

[Alex89]

Can bake light switch throw a code because of a bad brake light bulb? I did have a blub go out on me and I had a CEL so I replaced the bulb and CEL went away but I never removed the codes. So I think those are the old codes but I will replace the switch just in case, that's not a problem ($22).

Also, my main concern is about other 2 codes for ETA. Does that mean ETA is bad or just that its not working correctly (because of a vacuum leak possibly)?

 

[gsxr]

Can bake light switch throw a code because of a bad brake light bulb?

No.

I did have a blub go out on me and I had a CEL so I replaced the bulb and CEL went away but I never removed the codes. So I think those are the old codes but I will replace the switch just in case, that's not a problem ($22).

A bad brake light bulb should have triggered the lamp-out indicator on the dash, not a CEL. If you did not get the yellow lamp warning at all, I'd pull the cluster and verify the 5 bulbs on the right side are all in the correct order. See attached photo.

Also, my main concern is about other 2 codes for ETA. Does that mean ETA is bad or just that its not working correctly (because of a vacuum leak possibly)?

Very hard to tell based on the information available. If your brakes were working normally I'd be inclined to indict the ETA as faulty. But the brakes suddenly not working well (I assume high pedal effort required) points toward a major vacuum leak. So, right now, I just dunno...

:-?

 

[Alex89]

Sorry I meant I had lamp-out indicator on that went away after replacing the bulb.

Hm...Braking is not that bad its just not as efficient as before, pedal is softer and than when barely moving in my driveway and braking, pedal kind of falls through and starts pulsing a little like there is air in the system. When I drove the car to the shop today, it drove just fine as long as I don't put it in P or N and when I am coming to a complete stop I can feel brakes being weaker.

I should hear from the shop today what they found. I hope its not ETA since manufacturing date is 09'