M119 Intake Manifold & Injector Disassembly/Renewal

[gerryvz]

This document may have been already posted to this forum by a member, but it's been sitting around on my computer as a small project to "fix". The PDF is quite good as a general guide, but its pages were in the wrong order, so that you had to start at the end of the doc and then page UPWARD.

I fixed it so that you start at the beginning and page downward to work your way through the procedure. I think this doc has some value, used in conjunction with the FSM and other sources, so I thought I'd (re) post it, with the corrected page order.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[alabbasi]

In 2014, I bought this machine. My motivation for the purchase was waking up two V12 Jaguars and a Porsche 928 that all had sat for a very long time. It did a fantastic job and i've used it many times since on my cars and other peoples cars. If anyone needs their injectors cleaned on the cheap. I'll do them for $15/ injector including replacing the filter.

Thanks.

 

[pablo2696]

This document may have been already posted to this forum by a member, but it's been sitting around on my computer as a small project to "fix". The PDF is quite good as a general guide, but its pages were in the wrong order, so that you had to start at the end of the doc and then page UPWARD.

I fixed it so that you start at the beginning and page downward to work your way through the procedure. I think this doc has some value, used in conjunction with the FSM and other sources, so I thought I'd (re) post it, with the corrected page order.

Cheers,
Gerry

Hi Gerry,
Thanks for reposting the PDF. It is so useful... So I removed the manifold and replaced gaskets, seals, hoses, refurbished all 8 injectors, and vacuum lines. However, I have two questions that I hope you (or someone else) might be able to help me.

1- It appears that a vacuum line goes into the lower part of the intake manifold. Do you know where the other part connects?
2- With the intake off, I can see very well the valves and I have some sort of access to them. They are completely cover with carbon and it looks bad. Do you know how to clean the valves without removing the heads?

 

[gsxr]

#1... if you mean the vacuum line that goes to the rear of the lower manifold, as shown in the photo below, that goes to the EZL on the driver's fender. Use new Tecalan tubing.

 

[pablo2696]

Y

#1... if you mean the vacuum line that goes to the rear of the lower manifold, as shown in the photo below, that goes to the EZL on the driver's fender. Use new Tecalan tubing.

View attachment 94198

Yes, I meant that vacuum line. Thanks!

 

[Kyiv]

This documen

What a gem! With this illustration [even] I will dare to attempt this exercise sometime in the future

 

[JC220]

What a gem! With this illustration [even] I will dare to attempt this exercise sometime in the future

Let this inspire you too!



Tip- give the intake manifold halves to a machine shop to clean for you in their ultrasonic tank. Best 20 bucks you'll ever spend. Additionally I had mine vapour blasted for aesthetics and re-zinc plated all hardware

 

[JC220]

2- With the intake off, I can see very well the valves and I have some sort of access to them. They are completely cover with carbon and it looks bad. Do you know how to clean the valves without removing the heads?

I know what you mean but there isn't really a good way to clean the carbon from the topside of the valves from the intake ports. The carbon will be very hard and chips off in particles. For this reason if attempting this make sure the valve you are to work on is fully closed by observing the camshaft lobes. Use a pick or other implement to remove the worst chunks and that's all you could really do.

The way these are decarbonised is to remove the heads and a machine shop will blast the heads of the valves to remove carbon and use emery cloth in their valve grinding machine to clean the back side of the valves.

It is a slippery slope getting into this - but not a crazy additional amount of work. I did it myself and will be doing it again...… photos of a properly decarbonised M119 will be posted below.

I have lots of posts on this subject recently so do search the forum. And my owner's thread will show the most recent m119 overhaul.

When you are already in that far and the motor outside of the car it's really not much more effort to pull both heads and have a machine shop properly clean the heads and manifold. There are EGR tracts in the block which were plugged solid in mine too. With the heads off I could properly clean them out.

Don't attempt to replace the valVe stem seals with the heads in place. It is way too much time and trouble trust me - and the carbon in the cylinders will come loose with the compressed air and stop valve(s) from sealing. This means that mid way you will not be able to remove a valve collet and thus the heads will need to come off anyway.....

This is how the original valve stem oil seals will look like in 99% of m119s by now:

View attachment 93644

(The only people I know of who has changed the m119 valve stem oil seals on this board are me & Eno FWIW) Seeing the state of these I know it was very much worthwhile to replace them. These are not making an effective oil seal on the stem. Indeed the valve stem was not even touching the rock hard seal anymore. Did it burn oil? Don't know as it was a used motor I bought but again - the picture says it all IMO. From your photos all you need to do is remove the head bolts pretty much and the heads are off....

 

[gerryvz]

I would not advise pulling the heads off of an M119 just to de-coke the heads and valves. There is very little reason for the heads to ever come off of a 119 ... unlike the M117, which requires new valve guides and seals every 150+K miles.

 

[JC220]

Pics of before and after-






Clean enough to run on Nitro now

 

[JC220]

I would not advise pulling the heads off of an M119 just to de-coke the heads and valves. There is very little reason for the heads to ever come off of a 119 ... unlike the M117, which requires new valve guides and seals every 150+K miles.

True Gerry! But those m119 valve guide seals are toast by now. If not burning oil then perhaps this is OK to leave it is the consensus on here which I dont disagree with.

I am the type who only does jobs 100% or not at all but that's just me. As I do my own stunts and have plenty of contacts like machine shops etc this does help justify and rationalise the costs.

One thing is for sure though- that motor of mine has EVERY seal and gasket replaced with new genuine MB parts. Good for another 30 years of service hopefully. And my 500E + others will be getting the same treatment.

Although I havent raised the subject yet the head gaskets also were deteriorating with age. I kept them and will inspect them fully soon but they were not going to last forever either.

The short answer is - yes not worth getting into pulling the motor apart to decarbonise. This decision depends entirely your own aspirations for your car and how long you plan on keeping it etc.

 

[Kyiv]

Let this inspire you too!

View attachment 94203View attachment 94204View attachment 94205

Tip- give the intake manifold halves to a machine shop to clean for you in their ultrasonic tank. Best 20 bucks you'll ever spend. Additionally I had mine vapour blasted for aesthetics and re-zinc plated all hardware

Your owner's thread is like "War and Piece" by Tolstoy. Should be read cover to cover by secluding one's self for a week in a remote cabin out in the woods, with rain and thunder outside . Very inspiring

 

[JC220]

Your owner's thread is like "War and Piece" by Tolstoy. Should be read cover to cover by secluding one's self for a week in a remote cabin out in the woods, with rain and thunder outside . Very inspiring

Thankyou!

It is a great shame though that many of the posts had went bad text wise. What I normally do is write text on word or similar and paste them in since the forum software doesn't spell check all the time. And I post on a couple of forums at times.

This did not present any issues on my posts in other forums that slso coverted the software like BW but on the board my owners thread is still faulty. Whilst on the old software all those posts were fine too.

Could this be fixed please? @gerryvz

 

[pablo2696]

I know what you mean but there isn't really a good way to clean the carbon from the topside of the valves from the intake ports. The carbon will be very hard and chips off in particles. For this reason if attempting this make sure the valve you are to work on is fully closed by observing the camshaft lobes. Use a pick or other implement to remove the worst chunks and that's all you could really do.

The way these are decarbonised is to remove the heads and a machine shop will blast the heads of the valves to remove carbon and use emery cloth in their valve grinding machine to clean the back side of the valves.

It is a slippery slope getting into this - but not a crazy additional amount of work. I did it myself and will be doing it again...… photos of a properly decarbonised M119 will be posted below.

I have lots of posts on this subject recently so do search the forum. And my owner's thread will show the most recent m119 overhaul.

And if I use a carb cleaner with a pick, do you think it will work better than just using a pick? Either way, if its too risky I rather not do it and maybe in the future Ill just remove the heads to clean lifters (they have some sludge) and the valves.

 

[JC220]

And if I use a carb cleaner with a pick, do you think it will work better than just using a pick? Either way, if its too risky I rather not do it and maybe in the future Ill just remove the heads to clean lifters (they have some sludge) and the valves.

EGR cleaner is advised if you can get it. Stronger solvent but do be careful not to use too much as it will run past the seats and into the bores. In all cases remove the park plugs and spin the engine over on the starter to blow out any small debris or liquid that may have entered the cylinders.

Loose carbon can temporarily stop the valves from sealing correctly too. I'm on the fence if you should attempt to clean the valves this way or not really. Hard to tell

Edit- thinking about this I would suggest NOT trying to clean the valves in situ for reasons of limited access and potential for loose carbon to get stuck on the valve seats and / or enter the cylinders.

 

[gsxr]

And if I use a carb cleaner with a pick, do you think it will work better than just using a pick? Either way, if its too risky I rather not do it and maybe in the future Ill just remove the heads to clean lifters (they have some sludge) and the valves.

If there is only a thin layer of crud on the intake ports and valves, leave it alone. The reduction in airflow is negligible.

If there is a thick layer, or major chunks, I'd attempt to remove the worst. IF you do this, rotate the engine so the valves are closed to reduce debris that might fall into the cylinder. Use a shop vac at the port to suck debris out while you carefully scrape.

 

[pablo2696]

If there is only a thin layer of crud on the intake ports and valves, leave it alone. The reduction in airflow is negligible.

If there is a thick layer, or major chunks, I'd attempt to remove the worst. IF you do this, rotate the engine so the valves are closed to reduce debris that might fall into the cylinder. Use a shop vac at the port to suck debris out while you carefully scrape.

Will do this... thanks a lot!

 

[TX Benz Driver]

Great article and highly valuable for the intake manifold gasket changeout I just did on my '93 500SL. I believe all these parts should be interchangeable between the cars, but here is a list of all the parts I used on my SL. Might help someone in ordering the parts needed, especially those pesky air and vacuum hoses. Question - for my BMW's I can go to Realoem.com and get parts diagrams and part numbers very easily. Is there a similar site I can go to for the Mercedes?

Part Number​	Quantity​	Description​
119-094-31-82​	1​	Air hose​
119-094-29-82​	1​	Air hose​
119-094-46-82​	1​	Smog Pump Hose​
119-094-27-82​	1​	Air hose​
119-094-55-82​	1​	Breather hose – between connectors​
119-094-71-82​	1​	Breather hose – Valve Cover to connector​
119-094-44-82​	1​	Breather hose – throttle body to connector​
119-094-40-82​	1​	Breather hose – Intake manifold to connector​
119-094-71-82​	1​	Breather hose – Valve Cover to connector​
119-094-31-82​	1​	Air hose – intake manifold to connector​
119-094-26-82​	1​	Air hose – valve cover – left​
119-094-02-12​	1​	Air hose connector – 3 way left side​
117-140-02-65​	8​	Seal Rings​
119-203-03-82​	1​	Water Pump Hose​
119-094-03-12​	1​	Y- connector air hose​
119-141-01-67​	1​	Air mass sensor connector​
119-141-06-80​	1​	Intake manifold gasket – left​
119-141-09-80​	1​	Intake manifold gasket – right​

Thanks in advance and again, great info on this job.

Mark
'86 Mercedes 300SDL
'93 500SL
'91 BMW E34 M5
'91 BMW 735iL

 

[gerryvz]

Great article and highly valuable for the intake manifold gasket changeout I just did on my '93 500SL. I believe all these parts should be interchangeable between the cars, but here is a list of all the parts I used on my SL. Might help someone in ordering the parts needed, especially those pesky air and vacuum hoses. Question - for my BMW's I can go to Realoem.com and get parts diagrams and part numbers very easily. Is there a similar site I can go to for the Mercedes?

Part Number​	Quantity​	Description​
119-094-31-82​	1​	Air hose​
119-094-29-82​	1​	Air hose​
119-094-46-82​	1​	Smog Pump Hose​
119-094-27-82​	1​	Air hose​
119-094-55-82​	1​	Breather hose – between connectors​
119-094-71-82​	1​	Breather hose – Valve Cover to connector​
119-094-44-82​	1​	Breather hose – throttle body to connector​
119-094-40-82​	1​	Breather hose – Intake manifold to connector​
119-094-71-82​	1​	Breather hose – Valve Cover to connector​
119-094-31-82​	1​	Air hose – intake manifold to connector​
119-094-26-82​	1​	Air hose – valve cover – left​
119-094-02-12​	1​	Air hose connector – 3 way left side​
117-140-02-65​	8​	Seal Rings​
119-203-03-82​	1​	Water Pump Hose​
119-094-03-12​	1​	Y- connector air hose​
119-141-01-67​	1​	Air mass sensor connector​
119-141-06-80​	1​	Intake manifold gasket – left​
119-141-09-80​	1​	Intake manifold gasket – right​

Thanks in advance and again, great info on this job.

Mark
'86 Mercedes 300SDL
'93 500SL
'91 BMW E34 M5
'91 BMW 735iL

Parts lists (updated) in this thread (train-wreck in progress):

RESTO PROJECT: M119 / W124 / E500 Engine Top-End Refresh | Member Roadtrips and Project Journals

What with the current "self quarantine" imposed, I thought it a good time to begin a very long-standing project -- the complete refresh and cleaning of the top end of my M119 engine. Note that my E500 has 143K miles on it. There was ZERO issue with running, other than the following small...

www.500eboard.co

Instructions on factory EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog):

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/epc-isppi-wis-asra-and-ewa-net-information-on-buying-installing.3724/post-52756

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/epc-isppi-wis-asra-and-ewa-net-information-on-buying-installing.3724/post-207699

 

[TX Benz Driver]

OK, need a little help. I've changed the intake manifold gaskets and everything is back where it belongs. When I go to start the car I can hear the fuel pump running, it starts right up, but dies immediately. I can feather the gas and get it to stumble and run a little, but still dies. I've bled the fuel rail several times and it appears there is plenty of fuel in the system. I've also checked the crank position sensor and it is reading 850 ohms, which I think is close to correct. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but that wasn't an issue before this. There are not any blown fuses either.
The symptoms that drove me to do the intake manifold was good power and performance when cold, but once the car got warm it would run rough at low RPM's. The intake gaskets were definitively old and brittle, as were the air hoses. I don't have a code reader at this time.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Mark

 

[195910]

The symptoms do not suggest a vacuum leak. generally vacuum leaks affect idle during cold start/ warmup phase, and are reduced as the seals get warmer.

I sounds like an ignition system issue or in rare cases and internal leak.. do you have live data readings ?

 

[TX Benz Driver]

The symptoms do not suggest a vacuum leak. generally vacuum leaks affect idle during cold start/ warmup phase, and are reduced as the seals get warmer.

I sounds like an ignition system issue or in rare cases and internal leak.. do you have live data readings ?

I've searched on how to pull codes and found a way to pull some of the codes from the plug. The most pertinent codes so far seem to be:
- Voltage at mass air sensor with hot wire circuit. Open or short circuit
- Closed throttle position contact switch
I'll keep trying to pull codes on this car

Mark

 

[gsxr]

Make sure the MAF connector is fully locked, it will click into position. Also, you can try disconnecting the MAF completely and see if that makes any difference (the computers will default to an emergency running mode if there is no MAF signal, using the vacuum signal from the EZL instead - need to make sure that vacuum tube is intact).

Close throttle position switch - depends which one, there's contacts inside the ETA, and another switch at the gas pedal. This could indicate the throttle linkage isn't adjusted properly, but that would only engage limp mode, NOT cause the engine to refuse to start.

 

[Kyiv]

Just in case, did you check fuses in the base module, x4 10 amp red-colored ones?

 

[TX Benz Driver]

Make sure the MAF connector is fully locked, it will click into position. Also, you can try disconnecting the MAF completely and see if that makes any difference (the computers will default to an emergency running mode if there is no MAF signal, using the vacuum signal from the EZL instead - need to make sure that vacuum tube is intact).

Close throttle position switch - depends which one, there's contacts inside the ETA, and another switch at the gas pedal. This could indicate the throttle linkage isn't adjusted properly, but that would only engage limp mode, NOT cause the engine to refuse to start.

Thanks for the tips.
Made sure the MAF connector was fully locked in position several times. When I disconnected it the engine started and immediately headed to high RPM's. I quickly shut it off and reattached the MAF connector. Tried to start the car and same symptom as before - starts and shuts off immediately.
When I took the manifold off I just disconnected the throttle linkage and went back with the same linkage settings on both the throttle cable and the transmission bowden cable.
I was able to get the Close Throttle Position Switch to clear. There are other codes on this car, but nothing that seems to be related to the engine.
I checked the fuses and didn't see any that were blown.
Any other ideas??

Mark

 

[Kyiv]

How can the engine head to high rpm if the throttle body is closed? It can't do that without air supply. Is your throttle body closed before you start the car?

 

[gerryvz]

Are you sure the throttle linkage isn’t misadjusted?

 

[TX Benz Driver]

How can the engine head to high rpm if the throttle body is closed? It can't do that without air supply. Is your throttle body closed before you start the car?

I can look through the MAF and see the butterfly closed. I don't know if the throttle body is opening when the engine starts though.
The throttle linkage was removed and reinstalled back the same way then the manifold was installed. I can move the throttle linkage and see the throttle body open up. Also doesn't explain why the engine cranks, fires and then dies when the MAF is connected electrically.
Things are just not adding up.

Thanks for the input though.

 

[TX Benz Driver]

I can look through the MAF and see the butterfly closed. I don't know if the throttle body is opening when the engine starts though.
The throttle linkage was removed and reinstalled back the same way then the manifold was installed. I can move the throttle linkage and see the throttle body open up. Also doesn't explain why the engine cranks, fires and then dies when the MAF is connected electrically.
Things are just not adding up.

Thanks for the input though.

One other thing, I just went out into a quiet garage and turned the ignition on. I could hear humming coming from the throttle body. When I moved the throttle linkage the butterfly started to open, then snapped shut and the humming stopped. Was this the engine going into limp mode? Just trying to learn this thing.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[gsxr]

One other thing, I just went out into a quiet garage and turned the ignition on. I could hear humming coming from the throttle body. When I moved the throttle linkage the butterfly started to open, then snapped shut and the humming stopped. Was this the engine going into limp mode? Just trying to learn this thing.

Yes, if the car has ASR, you cannot move the linkage under the hood by hand... this will trigger limp mode, and likely store a fault code. It will reset after cycling ignition. If you want to observe throttle movement you need to have a second person press the gas pedal, or use something to prop the pedal part way down and then you can move the linkage under the hood manually.

 

[TX Benz Driver]

Thanks for the information Dave. I'm thinking that my problem may be the MAF sensor. The code that won't clear is the "Voltage at mass air sensor with hot wire circuit. Open or short circuit". Searching the internet says either a bad MAF sensor or the wiring is bad. I ran the wires to the connector under the cover and they seem to be good, so I'm leaning toward a bad MAF.

Anyone have a spare they want to sell or let me borrow to test this out?

Thanks for the help so far.

Mark

 

[gsxr]

Mark, if the engine was running fine before you started, it's highly unlikely the MAF died while you were doing the work. And, if only the MAF was bad, the engine should start / run / drive with the MAF disconnected.

I'm 99% certain something else is wrong, but I can't figure out what... btw, do you have a spare LH module you can swap in for a test?

 

[TX Benz Driver]

Mark, if the engine was running fine before you started, it's highly unlikely the MAF died while you were doing the work. And, if only the MAF was bad, the engine should start / run / drive with the MAF disconnected.

I'm 99% certain something else is wrong, but I can't figure out what... btw, do you have a spare LH module you can swap in for a test?

Thanks for that insight and I kinda agree with you. To answer your question, I don't have a spare LH Module for this car. I'll make some calls to some junk yards to see if I can find one.
OK< stupid question what is the LH Module? Is it located on the right side of the car and has the plug that the pins line out to the MAF sensor?

Mark

 

[Kyiv]

LH module is a fuel injection computer. In the engine compartment, passenger side, right under the windshield there's a box that contains several modules. It looks like a battery should be there. One of them is LH module, the other is base module. Base module has x4 10amp fuses, check them just in case

You can see it right in the begging of the video:

 

[gsxr]

kiev is correct. The LH module is the computer which controls fuel mixture, and also receives/processes the MAF signals. It's handy to have known-good spares of all the modules for testing. Your '93 500SL can also benefit from installing an earlier LH module from 500E/SEL which provides full-throttle enrichment, for a ~12hp gain at the crank (probably low on your priority list right now though!).

Dumb question: Is your upper engine wiring harness original (dated 1995 or older), or has it been replaced? If original, that may be the cause of your issues.

 

[TX Benz Driver]

Kiev and Dave, Thanks a lot for the information. I checked the base module and all fuses are good. I pulled the LH module and reseated it with no change. I'll look for a used LH module and try that.
As far as the wiring harness goes, I've thought of that and have not ruled it out. I don't have maintenance records, but the harness looks good and I've checked continuity between the MAF and the connector next to the box where the LH module is located and that checked out good.

Just for grins, what is the part number for the LH Module for the 500E/SEL? It is low on my priority list, but if I have to get another one, might as well get some improvement.

 

[gerryvz]

Just for grins, what is the part number for the LH Module for the 500E/SEL? It is low on my priority list, but if I have to get another one, might as well get some improvement.

All information on the electronic modules and part numbers is in the Wiki.

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/wiki/?title=500E-and-E500-CAN-Computer-Part-Number-Reference

 

[gsxr]

If you can't find the part number tag on the wiring harness which will have a date code... inspect the wire insulation at the ends, at the cam advance solenoid connector (just because these are easy to access and easily visible). The insulation should be 100% intact and bright colored. If it's cracked and flaking off, and usually faded... it's original.

There are multiple part numbers which will work for the LH module, but again it would be really strange for the module to fail "overnight". I still think you have something else going on.

 

[TX Benz Driver]

If you can't find the part number tag on the wiring harness which will have a date code... inspect the wire insulation at the ends, at the cam advance solenoid connector (just because these are easy to access and easily visible). The insulation should be 100% intact and bright colored. If it's cracked and flaking off, and usually faded... it's original.

There are multiple part numbers which will work for the LH module, but again it would be really strange for the module to fail "overnight". I still think you have something else going on.

Date code says July 2008 on the wiring harness. The insulation looks to be in great shape. I just ordered an LH module off of EBay. I'll keep looking at other potential issues. Couldn't find one from the 500E, but I'll keep looking for one.

I have to say I really appreciate the help I've gotten from this board. Great people and very knowledgeable with genuine useful information.

I'll keep you informed after I get the LH module.

 

[Kyiv]

@TX Benz Driver, keep us posted!

 

[TX Benz Driver]

OK: the new (used) LH module came in and no difference. Engine fires and immediately shuts down. Tried removing the MAF connector and once again the engine fired and immediately headed to high RPM's. Checked codes again and got the same "Voltage at mass air sensor with hot wire circuit. Open or short circuit" plus "camshaft position sensor. Open of short circuit". Tried several times to clear those codes and they wouldn't clear.
Came in and had dinner, and when I went back out the Camshaft position sensor code had cleared and I couldn't get it to show again.

On a whim I pulled the camshaft position sensor off and checked the resistance and it showed an open circuit, but would occasionally flash to around 100 ohms, then drop right back down again.

Any more thoughts? I'm thinking about replacing the cam position sensor first (shot in the dark) and the MAF if that doesn't work.

 

[Kyiv]

@TX Benz Driver, did you have a helper to observe what happens to the throttle butterfly when you start the car with MAF disconnected?

 

[TX Benz Driver]

@TX Benz Driver, did you have a helper to observe what happens to the throttle butterfly when you start the car with MAF disconnected?

I thought about that, but all I have is my wife and don't trust her with the key (may not get to it in time). May try to enlist my neighbor if I can entice him with a beer.
I did order a cam position sensor and may wait until that gets here to continue this saga.

 

[TX Benz Driver]

@TX Benz Driver, did you have a helper to observe what happens to the throttle butterfly when you start the car with MAF disconnected?

Tonight I had my wife start the car with the MAF connected and disconnected. In both cases the throttle butterfly opened very slightly. The engine behaved the same as before. Fired and died with the MAF connected and fired and accelerated to high RPM's with the MAF disconnected.

 

[Kyiv]

@jhodg5ck, what would you say, Mr. Bitter mechanic?

 

[jhodg5ck]

@jhodg5ck, what would you say, Mr. Bitter mechanic?

I'll need to catch up on this thread...will read through tmrw! :Jono:

 

[TX Benz Driver]

Tonight I had my wife start the car with the MAF connected and disconnected. In both cases the throttle butterfly opened very slightly. The engine behaved the same as before. Fired and died with the MAF connected and fired and accelerated to high RPM's with the MAF disconnected.

Got the new cam position sensor in and installed. No change...
Looking forward to hearing from Mr. Bitter Mechanic...

 

[jhodg5ck]

*nit picky

Has your throttle actuator been replaced? Sometimes they lose their mind/don't throw lights/codes

Based on what I see in my quick read I'd do that as long as you are Sure you have at least One good Egas

Ring me tmrw if you want to discuss in real time. Suuuuuper sleep deprived so calling it a night!

404.805.1357

Jono

 

[TX Benz Driver]

Talked to Jono. My throttle actuator and E-Gas module are on the way to him to work his magic.

Hopefully this will do it.

Will report back later...

Mark

 

[gerryvz]

Hopefully he doesn’t get TOO nit-picky with all of it.