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Beru rotors now made in ITALY, no longer reboxed OE

The new orange Beru has a different center contact design than either Bosch or OE/Doduco (old Beru). The new orange Bremi looks more similar to the old black Bremi, at least for the center portion.

So much for the supply of reboxed OE at a good price.

:runexe:

More pics here - listed as "FCT" brand, which appears to be "Facet". Appears Beru is now reboxing Facet brand:


 
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Note the Beru part number changed.

Old # = EVL183 - black, reboxed OE Doduco (photo below)
New # = EVL1831 - orange, likely Facet brand

beru_rotor4.jpg
 
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The new orange Beru has a different center contact design than either Bosch or OE/Doduco (old Beru). The new orange Bremi looks more similar to the old black Bremi, at least for the center portion.

So much for the supply of reboxed OE at a good price.
Yep that's the rotor that I just got from FCP labeled Brue the listing said made in Germany nope stamped made in ITALY!
 
Suddenly with every one not stocking Brue caps would be suspicious of the ones that are restocked after this. The pair of caps I just got off Ebay are real deal Brue caps but ??
 
Bought these in August. Beru 183. I did notice a difference in the design vs my old Bosch
 

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Bought these in August. Beru 183. I did notice a difference in the design vs my old Bosch
Caps are what I got from a Ebay vender and those rotors are what I suppoedly ordered but not what I got. I also ordered what was supposedly the outer cover left side for the Distributor got the inner plate so this order is going back. PS the allens in the Italy rotor were 4mm not 3.
 
Wow! I ordered a set on 9/3 when GSXR mentioned the Beru caps were OOS most everywhere but eBay. Luckily I must have got one of the last pairs from FCP that was still made in Germany.

FYI the caps on eBay from PartsContainer are German too. Same with mbz4man who is selling the NOS Genuine MB spark plugs. Both sellers still have some left as I post this.

Following GSXR’s always great advise again, thanks Dave, I grabbed the beautiful Beru spark plug wire set from PartsGeek for $205. They have only 7 sets left 👀

All this NLA drama sure makes me feel old
 

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You can also get the German-made rotors from them, but the price is DRAMATICALLY higher than it used to be. I got a pair of the German-made Beru rotors from partscontainer for under $70 back in April. Now they are pushing $70 EACH.
I am not sure what PartsContainer would ship, if you bought the rotors from them today. They drop-ship from warehouses, and there's a chance you may receive the new orange Italian jobs, not the black German ones. It'll cost someone ~$150 to find out.

:seesaw:
 
Just installed new Bosch caps, rotors, and insulators on the 92' Renntech.

Said, "made in Spain". Let you know how they perform tomorrow.

They are replacing Bremi's with 20k mi. on them.

BTW, I always replace the 3mm rotor bolts with 4mm heads to relieve any future problems of stripping the heads.

JC220 gave us this info on the bolts:

I got a packet of M5 Cap bolts that are perfect for this application. They have a 4mm allen slot vs the old 3mm one and it is a tight fit on a 4mm key. It will not round out like the OE bolts tend to. This pic compares the OE bolt head & the new one. (Note- this is the old battle scared Bremi Item I had to drill through and cut the bolts to release)

47207-78d382e6f01e67214a39812d2aa1c7bd.jpg



So you guys can order whatever bolts you like ahead of the job here’s the details-

· M5 Thread
· 4mm Cap head (Vs old 3mm cap)
· 14mm Thread length. It does NOT matter at all if the new bolt is fully threaded vs the old part threaded one.
47208-5835edfe56bec7dbda35e6b8978f3d4c.jpg


Thread length can be + - 1-2mm. Or order longer ones and cut them down to match the original bolt length.

My new rotors are already installed. I have bagged & tagged the new bolts for safe keeping so next time I have the rotors off I will swap the bolts out for the better ones.
 
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It's too late for me, but, according to Louie, the Beru are better than the Bosch (made in Spain).

Hoping for the best with the Bosch I just installed.
 
Old Beru, made in Germany, were the best to use. But as shown in the first post on this thread, I don't think we can get them anymore. In that case, it's either OE ($$$) or Bosch.

:rugby:
 
Just installed new Bosch caps, rotors, and insulators on the 92' Renntech.

Said, "made in Spain". Let you know how they perform tomorrow.

They are replacing Bremi's with 20k mi. on them.

BTW, I always replace the 3mm rotor bolts with 4mm heads to relieve any future problems of stripping the heads.

JC220 gave us this info on the bolts:

I got a packet of M5 Cap bolts that are perfect for this application. They have a 4mm allen slot vs the old 3mm one and it is a tight fit on a 4mm key. It will not round out like the OE bolts tend to. This pic compares the OE bolt head & the new one. (Note- this is the old battle scared Bremi Item I had to drill through and cut the bolts to release)

View attachment 114547



So you guys can order whatever bolts you like ahead of the job here’s the details-

· M5 Thread
· 4mm Cap head (Vs old 3mm cap)
· 14mm Thread length. It does NOT matter at all if the new bolt is fully threaded vs the old part threaded one.
View attachment 114548


Thread length can be + - 1-2mm. Or order longer ones and cut them down to match the original bolt length.

My new rotors are already installed. I have bagged & tagged the new bolts for safe keeping so next time I have the rotors off I will swap the bolts out for the better ones.

@Trae, @JC220 ... thank you. What kind of M5x14mm 4mm allen head cap screw is best?




 
@Trae, @JC220 ... thank you. What kind of M5x14mm 4mm allen head cap screw is best?





Stainless steel fasteners are not as strong as regular fasteners. However in this application they are very low torque and my preference is stainless so they never corrode and will last the life of the car.

If you were choosing a critical fastener such as a suspension bolt you would not substitute with stainless unless it was clearly stamped with equal or greater strength class as the OE bolt.

The chances of one these small bolts shearing off in the distributer is zero IMO. But any bolt in there could come loose so a very small dab of removable thread lock wouldnt hurt.
 
Old Beru, made in Germany, were the best to use. But as shown in the first post on this thread, I don't think we can get them anymore. In that case, it's either OE ($$$) or Bosch.

:rugby:
Hi Dave, I just bought 2x Beru rotors & 2 x Bremi caps , made in Germany from a german distributor on ebay.de for 133 Euros + shipping to france.Does that look like a deal? Rgds Steve
 

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The caps i bought were the real ones from Parts container. They did have the Brue rotor but a $68 a pop. The FCP listing said they were the MIG real ones but lied and I have a email in with Customer Service. Will INSIST they change the listing to reflect the MII new brown rotors.
 
Hi Dave, I just bought 2x Beru rotors & 2 x Bremi caps , made in Germany from a german distributor on ebay.de for 133 Euros + shipping to france.Does that look like a deal? Rgds Steve
I think you got a good deal overall. Two of the Beru EVIL 183 rotors (made in Germany) for under $100 is a good deal.

The Bremi caps are going to be serviceable, but it's preferred to buy Beru caps if possible.

I have to say, there is a lot of over-thinking and hand-wringing on the forum when it comes to caps and rotors. Yes, Bosch and Bremi are not going to be as good as Beru or MB factory parts, but they're going to be functional, serviceable, and certainly usable. @Trae, you will be fine with the Bosch parts you got. I'd probably replace them in 25 or 30K miles, but they should be fine.

I just replaced a set of Bosch caps and rotors in my Top-end job, that had been installed at 103K miles back in 2009. They never skipped a beat until I changed them out at 142K miles just a few weeks ago. That's 40,000 miles and 11+ years of use.

My advice: get Beru or factory parts if/when you can. If you have Bosch or Bremi, use them until it's time to change them or if they fail / you have problems. Then get Beru or factory parts, if available. If they cause problems prematurely, then get Beru or factory stuff ASAP. Otherwise, use and enjoy them.
 
The caps i bought were the real ones from Parts container. They did have the Brue rotor but a $68 a pop. The FCP listing said they were the MIG real ones but lied and I have a email in with Customer Service. Will INSIST they change the listing to reflect the MII new brown rotors.
My guess is that the part supplier/quality/item changed, and it happened within the past couple of months. It's likely that FCP just wasn't aware of the change, or hadn't gotten to changing the photo and COO on the listing.

I know you like and trust those guys at FCP. I'm sure it was just an innocent oversight and they'll change their listing. I would go ahead and use the parts that you got from them, no harm. Besides, since it's FCP if the rotors are defective, you can exchange them per warranty.
 
On FCP have been using them for years even before they started handling a full Euro pats lineand were a Volvo specialty company. Have a long standing relationship with the company.
Got this from their CS this morning



%2Fsystem%2Fphotos%2F3607%2F0088%2F5032%2FTannerZD.jpg Tanner Amoroso (FCP Euro)

Sep 27, 2020, 7:07 AM EDT

Hello Richard,

Thanks for contacting FCP Euro!

I am so sorry for the mix-up this time around! If you would like, I would be more than happy to issue a label to have the incorrect parts sent back to us for a full refund. Meanwhile, I can see if I can source the correct parts for your Mercedes. Would this work for you? Once again, I do apologize for the inconvenience!

I'm here to help with any further questions or concerns!

Best regards,
Tanner
Tanner Amoroso
Customer Service Advisor
ws.com%2Ffcp-creative%2Femail_signatures%2FEuro_v6.gif
Quality & Service, Guaranteed for Life
There is a reason I am so hot on them as they have been very good if there is a issue making things right.
Will let you know what happens for now will use the Bermi buttons. Have to dig into the coil on the left side as the coil wire was big time green and had a BUNCH of powder on the cap terminal that I have never seen before . Don' t know if some how that lead just was not seated or what but it definitely big time was arching from the looks of things. Suggestions other than changing the coil wire? Being a State Political Party Chairman have so much going on right now with the poltical can't get time to really dive into it. Just parked the 420 for a few days and am driving my Truck or Chrysler for now.
 
Interesting. I bought two sets from Parts Container on Ebay and got one set EVL 183 (Germany) and the other is the EVL1831 made in Italy. Requested a refund/exchange from the seller. Let's see what they say.
 
Partscontainer must be transitioning their stock/supply from the EVIL 183s to the EVIL 1831s. Damn. Honestly, I think you're probably fine to use the 1831. You don't want to be the forum guinea pig for the 1831, KS?
 
Just installed new Bosch caps, rotors, and insulators on the 92' Renntech.
Said, "made in Spain". Let you know how they perform tomorrow.
They are replacing Bremi's with 20k mi. on them.

I have to say, there is a lot of over-thinking and hand-wringing on the forum when it comes to caps and rotors. Yes, Bosch and Bremi are not going to be as good as Beru or MB factory parts, but they're going to be functional, serviceable, and certainly usable. @Trae, you will be fine with the Bosch parts you got. I'd probably replace them in 25 or 30K miles, but they should be fine.

I just replaced a set of Bosch caps and rotors in my Top-end job, that had been installed at 103K miles back in 2009. They never skipped a beat until I changed them out at 142K miles just a few weeks ago. That's 40,000 miles and 11+ years of use.

I installed Spanish Bosch caps/rotors/insulators with Russian Bosch spark plugs 4 years ago ... so far so good. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Hi Dave, I just bought 2x Beru rotors & 2 x Bremi caps , made in Germany from a german distributor on ebay.de for 133 Euros + shipping to france.Does that look like a deal? Rgds Steve
Steve, those are probably the "good" rotors. Open the box and find out. The good ones (old stock) have the MB part number and Star logo on them, as they are reboxed OE, which I may have mentioned previously.

:mushroom1:
 
Steve, those are probably the "good" rotors. Open the box and find out. The good ones (old stock) have the MB part number and Star logo on them, as they are reboxed OE, which I may have mentioned previously.

:mushroom1:
They have got 1191580231 on them , but I can't really see the star
 
The Star is tiny and hard to see because the plastic has a clear coating applied. If you see the MB part #, those are OE Doduco.

1601219471894.png
 
Partscontainer must be transitioning their stock/supply from the EVIL 183s to the EVIL 1831s. Damn. Honestly, I think you're probably fine to use the 1831. You don't want to be the forum guinea pig for the 1831, KS?

Not on a nice temperate Sunday. Probably ok with the 1831s but given the pic is of a black rotor and the listing specifically calls out 183 that's what I should be expecting to receive.
 
Not on a nice temperate Sunday. Probably ok with the 1831s but given the pic is of a black rotor and the listing specifically calls out 183 that's what I should be expecting to receive.
I had a similar issue when buying voltage regulators from them. They deal in such high volumes (look at their feedback number), and drop-ship from warehouses, they have no idea if the item in the warehouse matches what shows on the website. On the plus side, they were good about accepting the return.

Now that I've figured out Beru is reboxing Facet rotors with a p/n adjustment to 1831, I'd just shell out for Genuine/OE. At discount dealers they are ~$80/ea. Knew I should have hoarded more when they were cheaper. Ah well, snooze/lose, etc.

:hornets:
 
Facet appears to be a European-made brand. Are they poor quality like Üro or Trucktec?
I think so. IIRC they sell other electronic items (temp sensors, etc) that are far too low priced to be acceptable quality. Their rotors might be on par with Bremi, i.e., perfectly cromulent.

:seesaw:
 
Stainless steel fasteners are not as strong as regular fasteners. However in this application they are very low torque and my preference is stainless so they never corrode and will last the life of the car.

If you were choosing a critical fastener such as a suspension bolt you would not substitute with stainless unless it was clearly stamped with equal or greater strength class as the OE bolt.

The chances of one these small bolts shearing off in the distributer is zero IMO. But any bolt in there could come loose so a very small dab of removable thread lock wouldnt hurt.

Thank you @JC220 for the advice. I received a lifetime supply (for one car) of Marine Grade 313 stainless steel M5x14mm Hex-4mm-head-cap-screws today. (50pcs). I note that the 4mm driver, from Craftsman Tool, fits very snugly. This Craftsman tool is one I purchased in the mid 1990s, and was made in the USA 👍.
IMG_0217.jpeg IMG_0218.jpeg IMG_0219.jpeg IMG_0220.jpeg IMG_0221.jpeg IMG_0222.jpeg.
 
I just threw away a set of OE rotors that came off the triple black. did less than 7000km, Original with M-B star produced by Deduco in 2016.

I initially thought its the caps, so I changed those with a beru set I had, was not the issue. I bolted on a set of +10 years old Bosch made rotors, car ran Extremely smooth with perfect ignition values!

I remedied the main cause of course, but can't believe the rotors could absorb that much oil vapour! I had cleaned the OE set before and can't see any damage nor cracking, terminals looked nearly new.

Any one had the same issue? A set of EVL183 are on the way.
 
I bolted on a set of +10 years old Bosch made rotors, car ran Extremely smooth with perfect ignition values!
@195910, what were the ignition values on SDS, before / after? Were all 8 cylinders affected, or only 4 cylinders from 1 distributor/rotor?

:apl:
 
Thank you @JC220 for the advice. I received a lifetime supply (for one car) of Marine Grade 313 stainless steel M5x14mm Hex-4mm-head-cap-screws today. (50pcs). I note that the 4mm driver, from Craftsman Tool, fits very snugly. This Craftsman tool is one I purchased in the mid 1990s, and was made in the USA 👍.

Source please?
 
@195910, what were the ignition values on SDS, before / after? Were all 8 cylinders affected, or only 4 cylinders from 1 distributor/rotor?

:apl:

That was the fun part Dave, I was lossing spark at 2-3-5-8 from cold start, then its switches to 1-4-6-7 once warm.
I was suspecting fuel supply but the smell of fuel and a rail pressure test indicated otherwise.
 
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I had the same symptoms in one of my 93's!

After throwing massive amounts of time and parts at the car, it turned out that one of my brand new Bremi rotors was grounding out, producing an irregular spark, and had burn marks.

I had replaced insulators, caps, rotors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coils, O2 sensor, fuel pressure regulator, and even swapped out the MAF, EZL, E Gas, and LH modules. There were no codes or check engine light. Car ran like crap with strong unburned gas smell.

These rotors had less than 1000 miles on them, and the passenger side rotor was defective. It controlled cylinders 1,4,6 and 7.
I will never use Bremi again.
 

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I have black Beru caps, but no rotors yet.
What rotors should I buy to go with them? OE, Beru, or Bosch?
 
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I had the same symptoms in one of my 93's!

After throwing massive amounts of time and parts at the car, it turned out that one of my brand new Bremi rotors was arcing.

These rotors had less than 1000 miles on them, and the passenger side rotor was defective. It controlled cylinders 1,4,6 and 7.

I had replaced insulators, caps, rotors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coils, O2 sensor, and even swapped out the EZL.

I will never use Bremi again.
I got the same problem after changing at shop the spark plugs and wire. So getting miss fire after 10m of start. Got the code 2,3,5,8. What is it, ca someone help me ? And what parts better to purchase?
thanks
 
I suspect the driver's side cap and rotor since they fire cylinders 2,3,5, and 8.

Carefully check rotor for any burn marks or arcing. Reference pictures in post #47.
Also inspect inside of cap.
 
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