"Home made" ignition cable build

[jnes]

Hi,

I ordered new parts from CC for rebuilding the ignition cables. I have already prepared proper length cables and crimped cable ends with proper MB tool. Since the old style resistor plug holders were not available anymore mounting new cables were pretty easy but then the distributor end is causing issues to me. I don't know how the cable should be installed to the plug. Plug is so thight fit and and ignition cable will only twist when trying to install plugs to the cables.

Any tips and tricks warmly welcome. I know that there is people who has build ignition cable sets.

Is it safe to use some silicone to lubricate ignition cable to easier the installation?

Thanks!

 

[gsxr]

Yes -

Is it safe to use some silicone to lubricate ignition cable to easier the installation?

Yes - you need to lubricate the boot/wire to allow it to rotate. I'm not sure what is the best lubricant to use, but anything that won't damage rubber and won't conduct electricity should be fine.

Also read this post:

Post in thread 'Information on buying and installing new ignition wires - Beru'

Nov 14, 2013

Re: New ignition wires - Beru

BTW, these are the heat-shrink wire numbers I used:
http://www.taylorvertex.com/spark-plugs/index.cgi/productListing?id=220385

WARNING: Because you have to slide these over the bare end of the wires, these heat-shrink type markers ONLY work for the OE factory-style wires which you can unscrew from the ends/boots at the spark plug or distributor cap. Some aftermarket wires cannot have the ends/boots removed without destroying them. Be careful out there.



UPDATE, Nov-2016: The new wires are NOT always easy to thread into the boots...

• gsxr

• 

 

[jnes]

Ok, I managed to build those cables. First I tried to use lubricant but it was still horror to build and managed to complete like one cable! Then I give up and sleep overnight and go to garage with my friend. Then he tried to assemble cables with no luck. After taking a brake my friend noted that there must be some sort of special tool to help installation and then I got idea. Steel pipe.

So, next day I went to local hydraulic shop to purchase proper pipe that OD would be as small as possible and also wall thickness but the inner diameter of the pipe need to big enough that I could slide cable through it. So when having plug cable and that distributor cap with me I end up having free of charge 10mm OD hydraulic steelpipe (10cm length, more than needed ) with inner diameter like 7mm. ID wasn't sufficient for feeding the ignition cable through it so I need to drill it bigger with 8,5mm drill. That was more than enough.

When installing first install the pipe til end of the distributor plug housing and make sure that it is alligned straight (use some light to check) and then feed cable and twist on. Ensure that cable is secured by gently pulling it. I was able to install all cables without any lubricant. Then just pull of the pipe and take it off from the other end. And then slide cable markings and screw plug housing and you're done. Only disadvantage is that you need to feed the cable markings all way to the distributor end.

When removing the steel pipe from plug housing you can use flat screw driver to help pulling the pipe off. If you are welder you can weld flange to other end of the pipe to help to take off the pipe from plug. Another option could be to cut off piece from the pipe that you can take it off from the cable without pulling it though.

Here is some poor photo how I did it.

Hope that helps those who are building cables from scratch.