M119.974 Top-End Consumables Mini Refresh — @Jlaa

[Jlaa]

The current ETA in my car is date stamped April 1993. It has the early pancake connector.



I have a spare ETA on the shelf as well. I cannot remember where I got it. I thought I got it from ebay some years ago, but I cannot find any emails/receipts pertaining to it, so maybe I took it off a junkyard car at some point. I'm losing track ...... Here is my spare, date coded August 2002.



I vaguely remember testing it when I got it through some shade-tree-mechanic-method that I *think* I heard about from @JC220. I vaguely remember disconnecting my car's ETA, setting this harvested ETA on top of the MAF and plugging it into the car and make sure that the throttle opened and closed correctly while the car was sitting in the garage in Park.

Anyways, I *think* (maybe someone can correct me) I read somewhere that the pancake ETAs are less prone to eco-junk wiring failures than later cylindrical-connector ETAs. That said, I *think* also read that the pancake ETAs still have components inside / doohickeys / little-green-men that wear out over time and need servicing. So my questions are:

1) Should I send my spare to Don Roden for rebuilding? I would anticipate that my original ETA would fail at some point and at that time I would swap in my spare and then send my original out to Don for rebuilding too, assuming Don is still in business at that point.

2) If I flex the cable on my spare ETA, I can hear crunching. Does this mean eco junk wiring is inside even though I vaguely remember Victor @ RestoreYourMercedes saying something about pancake ETAs not having such wiring?

Thanks.

 

[a777fan]

Meh... not for 'wasting' money .. but I figure even your 'new' one is close to 20 years old at this point. Don used to be priced reasonably enough that I wouldn't hesitate to have him re-build it such that it could sit on my shelf with confidence.

Obviously your dime however!

 

[Jlaa]

Meh... not for 'wasting' money .. but I figure even your 'new' one is close to 20 years old at this point. Don used to be priced reasonably enough that I wouldn't hesitate to have him re-build it such that it could sit on my shelf with confidence.

Obviously your dime however!

Thanks! This is exactly the kind of peer pressure I come here for.

 

[emerydc8]

Thanks! This is exactly the kind of peer pressure I come here for.

FWIW, I had a 1993 400E with the pancake ETA and the insulation was garbage, just like the wiring harness. I would bet your 2002 ETA is still good -- at least the insulation. Maybe the green men inside need serviced though. Are you willing to make a surgical slice into the outer harness to inspect the wire insulation inside?

 

[Jlaa]

FWIW, I had a 1993 400E with the pancake ETA and the insulation was garbage, just like the wiring harness. I would bet your 2002 ETA is still good -- at least the insulation. Maybe the green men inside need serviced though. Are you willing to make a surgical slice into the outer harness to inspect the wire insulation inside?

Hmmmmmm…. do you mean that your 1993 pancake ETA insulation was eco-junk garbage, and that you are guessing that maybe the 2002 pancake ETA is

1) on its way to becoming garbage (because eco junk) but not there yet (bc made in 2002) OR
2) made of non eco junk insulation bc it was made in 2002?

Regardless, thank you for relating that your own 1993 pancake ETA was garbage. That’s a new one to me.
I am somewhat loath to slice open the outer jacket because I have no way of repairing the jacket with heat shrink tubing if the inside insulation is a-ok……… heat shrink tubing will not fit over the pancake.

Slicing open the jacket kind of commits me to the rebuild unless there is another way to repair the jacket that looks professional (meaning not self-vulcanizing F4 Phantom tape)?

 

[emerydc8]

I was referring to the 1993 ETA in your car. I know Victor once commented that he didn't see many 1993 ETAs with bad harness insulation, but mine in fact was bad. Maybe it was hit-or-miss back then (mine was made in late 1992). I had purchased the ETA harness separately from Germany and was about to wire it in my car when I ran into the tech at the dealer who happened to have a 500E in his bay. He explained that the insulation for the ETA wiring was bad. He said he had done so much work on the car lately that he didn't want to hit his customer with a $2000 repair bill for a new ETA. I gave him my ETA harness and he wired it in for his customer. I had intended to order another harness but my 400E was totaled so it became a moot point.

BTW, is Don Roden still in business. I can't find him on ebay.

 

[gerryvz]

Hmmmmmm…. do you mean that your 1993 pancake ETA insulation was eco-junk garbage, and that you are guessing that maybe the 2002 pancake ETA is

1) on its way to becoming garbage (because eco junk) but not there yet (bc made in 2002) OR
2) made of non eco junk insulation bc it was made in 2002?

Regardless, thank you for relating that your own 1993 pancake ETA was garbage. That’s a new one to me.
I am somewhat loath to slice open the outer jacket because I have no way of repairing the jacket with heat shrink tubing if the inside insulation is a-ok……… heat shrink tubing will not fit over the pancake.

Slicing open the jacket kind of commits me to the rebuild unless there is another way to repair the jacket that looks professional (meaning not self-vulcanizing F4 Phantom tape)?

Just FYI — not long after I bought my car in 2003 I had a local shop in Portland (MBI Motors) slice an inch or so on the ETA cable to check for deterioration. They didn’t find any issues, so they closed it up with electrical tape. It held for the next 15+ years until I sent the ETA to Don Roden for a total rebuild.

you would be fine with a small slit being covered with tape. But IMHO I would get the rebuild done by Don. Despite deterioration of my external cable, which was not causing any problems when I relived the ETA. Don found a couple of issues on the inside of my ETA.

Don’t over-rotate on the cable — there is much more that can go wrong with ETAs than just the cables. It’s prudent given these things are pushing 30 years old to just get them repaired and maintained.

 

[gsxr]

On the 2002, remove the side cover where the external cable goes through the housing. You'll be able to see if the 'pigtail' insulation is degraded, without having to slice it open. If the wires are good (and they should be, because 2002) and it otherwise bench tests OK, I'd install the 2002 ETA as-is.

Then send your 1993 unit out for a rebuild and keep that on the shelf. The 1993 unit is far more likely to have tired internal components and some bad internal wiring. The 2002 will have good wiring, and at least 9 years less wear & tear, although with no history you don't know the miles...

 

[gerryvz]

As far as I have known, ALL E500E ETAs and all E500 upper+lower harnesses were made with the bad wiring insulation, not just the later ones.

 

[Jlaa]

On the 2002, remove the side cover where the external cable goes through the housing. You'll be able to see if the 'pigtail' insulation is degraded, without having to slice it open. If the wires are good (and they should be, because 2002) and it otherwise bench tests OK, I'd install the 2002 ETA as-is.

Then send your 1993 unit out for a rebuild and keep that on the shelf. The 1993 unit is far more likely to have tired internal components and some bad internal wiring. The 2002 will have good wiring, and at least 9 years less wear & tear, although with no history you don't know the miles...

Great advice, thank you. Damnit, ok, I need to get a security torx bit set.

 

[gsxr]

As far as I have known, ALL E500E ETAs and all E500 upper+lower harnesses were made with the bad wiring insulation, not just the later ones.

All upper/engine harnesses, and all lower/starter harnesses, had bad insulation from the factory... AFAIK, without exception.

Some/most early ETA's with large/pancake connector MAY have a good external "pigtail" wire between connector and ETA. However, even if the external wire is ok, the internal wiring very likely has the bad insulation, and the internal components are probably worn unless the ETA has very low miles.

I had assumed all original ETA's had defective external wires but after hearing (from Victor?) that the early ETA's don't always had bad pigtails, I started checking, and so far I've never found an early/pancake pigtail with bad wiring. However all the later/smaller-connector pigtails are always junk.



@xfadmin: The pics below had been in the ETA Wiki, but I can't figure out how to upload image files to a Wiki entry since the Zenforo migration.

 

[JC220]

Correct - pancake ETAs never had the defective insulation. This is what Victor told me on the phone a few years back. And when I have checked several since including my 500E the original pancake eta wiring had not degraded whilst the original smaller / late plug ETA wiring was badly degraded.

 

[gerryvz]

As the @gsxr said, you will find perfect interior wiring inside the ETA with the later production unit. However, wiring isn't all of the story -- there are potentiometers and other components inside the ETAs that fail with both time and especially, with use.

This is what Don Roden told me was wrong with my ETA. The wiring was bad, but it still worked. But he found a couple of issues with the internals of my ETA. I didn't even know it wasn't 100%, as it seemed to work fine.

I think it is a good idea to send in your 1993 ETA and get it refurbished, and keep the later unit as a spare. I have one 400E spare and two W140 spares, all post-2000 production. I keep reminding myself that I need to send in one of my spares to Don to have a "refirb" on the shelf as a spare.

I have attempted to sell spares (both refirb'd by Don and un-refirb'd so that the buyer can deal with it). Seems folks don't want to spend the money on a spare ETA. I'd have to sell a spare ETA that would be refirb'd by Don for probably $700-750, of which $500 would be having to pay Don to do the work, and the rest for my cost of acquiring and shipping the unit to the buyer. Nobody here wants to pay $750 for an ETA. Heck, nobody here wants to pay $250 for an unrefirb'd ETA.

 

[Jlaa]

As the @gsxr said, you will find perfect interior wiring inside the ETA with the later production unit. However, wiring isn't all of the story -- there are potentiometers and other components inside the ETAs that fail with both time and especially, with use.

This is what Don Roden told me was wrong with my ETA. The wiring was bad, but it still worked. But he found a couple of issues with the internals of my ETA. I didn't even know it wasn't 100%, as it seemed to work fine.

I think it is a good idea to send in your 1993 ETA and get it refurbished, and keep the later unit as a spare. I have one 400E spare and two W140 spares, all post-2000 production. I keep reminding myself that I need to send in one of my spares to Don to have a "refirb" on the shelf as a spare.

I have attempted to sell spares (both refirb'd by Don and un-refirb'd so that the buyer can deal with it). Seems folks don't want to spend the money on a spare ETA. I'd have to sell a spare ETA that would be refirb'd by Don for probably $700-750, of which $500 would be having to pay Don to do the work, and the rest for my cost of acquiring and shipping the unit to the buyer. Nobody here wants to pay $750 for an ETA. Heck, nobody here wants to pay $250 for an unrefirb'd ETA.

Yeah! I’m gonna send in my 1993 ETA and leave my 2002 ETA on the shelf. I will send in my 1993 ETA as soon as I receive all those top end parts I got from your Top End Rebuild thread …. But I need to finish sanitizing the parts list and cross index all those part numbers to part diagrams. And then deal with the NLAs that were not NLA when you made that list ….. mostly a couple of plastic vacuum pipes.

 

[gerryvz]

Funny -- I just came across a stack of all of the printed out MB workshop manual instructions that I used for my refirb, as well as all of the parts sheets with part numbers from the EPC that I'd printed out, and then cross-referenced as I got the parts in from when I'd ordered them. All of this stuff was stuck in the corner of the garage, and I was cleaning it out over the weekend. I'll scan the parts diagrams and numbers and update this post. Perhaps they may help you. Although everyone has their own code and way of doing things.

 

[Jlaa]

Funny -- I just came across a stack of all of the printed out MB workshop manual instructions that I used for my refirb, as well as all of the parts sheets with part numbers from the EPC that I'd printed out, and then cross-referenced as I got the parts in from when I'd ordered them. All of this stuff was stuck in the corner of the garage, and I was cleaning it out over the weekend. I'll scan the parts diagrams and numbers and update this post. Perhaps they may help you. Although everyone has their own code and way of doing things.

Thank you. That would be very convenient! I will add to your update if I run into any changes / NLAs.

 

[gerryvz]

Thank you. That would be very convenient! I will add to your update if I run into any changes / NLAs.

Please see attached. If you can't figure out my codes/notations, please enquire.

 

[Jlaa]

On the 2002 [ETA], remove the side cover where the external cable goes through the housing. You'll be able to see if the 'pigtail' insulation is degraded, without having to slice it open. If the wires are good (and they should be, because 2002) and it otherwise bench tests OK, I'd install the 2002 ETA as-is.

Great advice, thank you. Damnit, ok, I need to get a security torx bit set.

You know, in the grand scheme of things, the Interwebz is really remarkable. These cars were not built THAT long ago. In 1993 I would have never imagined that I would be able to ask for this kind of technical advice from folks thousands of miles away and receive advice AND photographs, in real time ..... and THEN decide that I need to buy a torx security bit set, and then actually BUY that bit set, ELECTRONICALLY with my credit card (instead of the old mechanical KERCHUNK KERCHUNK swipe/imprint machine things) and then have that said bit set MAGICALLY appear on my doorstep that same afternoon from Bezosland.

In 1993, had I been astute enough to know that I needed a security torx bit set, I probably would have driven to Sears, found no such Craftsman branded bit set, and then given up.

Anyways, it looks like my 2002 ETA shows no wire-insulation degradation! Score!

 

[a777fan]

Look at that minty insulation porn!!

 

[Jlaa]

Please see attached. If you can't figure out my codes/notations, please enquire.

Thanks this is awesome. So far I have found 4-5 parts on your hand written notes that were not on the "parts table" list in the "TOP END REBUILD" Thread. I had already cross-checked your "parts table" list to the diagrams in the EPC, and now I see why some parts in the EPC diagrams seemed not to be in the "parts table" list ..... because they were in your hand written notes.

Question ------ Did you end up not needing part 000-276-00-30 (part 53 in diagram) - Line from intake manifold to automatic transmission 680mm?

 

[gerryvz]

I ended up not needing it because I had replaced it some years ago, so mine was fresh more or less.

Also, the three pieces of sheathing around the vacuum lines (the heavy rectangles in the diagram) I ended up not needing because I got the Triple-Trouble-approved sheathing via Amazon. It’s in his owner thread. Triple Trouble actually ended up having quite an influence on various aspects of my Top-end job, such as for the fuel injector rebuild and pintle cap replacement, etc.

There were a number of parts that I ordered that I ended up not needing, such as clips and such. But all of it was cheap, and I figured some of may go NLA in the future, so why not have it on hand if needed.

A couple of items I was able to score that are NLA are the water pump overflow tube (which if you are careful you can reuse and clean up) and the little yellow retainer nuts for the two vacuum valves above the brake booster.

glad my diagrams and notes are of help. Don’t order the sheathing — use the Triple Trouble stuff from Amazon. For the corrugated wire sheathing, which disintegrates and flakes odd from heat, use stuff sourced from a McFLAPS store or Amazon.

 

[Jlaa]

I ended up not needing it because I had replaced it some years ago, so mine was fresh more or less.

Also, the three pieces of sheathing around the vacuum lines (the heavy rectangles in the diagram) I ended up not needing because I got the Triple-Trouble-approved sheathing via Amazon. It’s in his owner thread. Triple Trouble actually ended up having quite an influence on various aspects of my Top-end job, such as for the fuel injector rebuild and pontlencap replacement, etc.

There were a number of parts that I ordered that I ended up not needing, such as clips and such. But all of it was cheap, and I figured some of may go NLA in the future, so why not have it on hand if needed.

A couple of items I was able to score that are NLA are the water pump overflow tube (which if you are careful you can reuse and clean up) and the little yellow retainer nuts for the two vacuum valves above the brake booster.

glad my diagrams and notes are of help. Don’t order the sheathing — use the Triple Trouble stuff from Amazon. For the corrugated wire sheathing, which disintegrates and flakes odd from heat, use stuff sourced from a McFLAPS store or Amazon.

Awesome thanks:

For reference, here is @a777fan's post about the sheathing: OWNER - a777fan (E420) | Owners and Their Cars
And he got these two sheathing products from Amazon:



@a777fan, as I am now following in your footsteps, have you been satisfied with these two sheathing products 2 years on, subtracting the 6 months that Uter sat on your driveway? Are these heatshield sleeves split (for easy wire insertion) or unsplit?

EDIT/ UPDATE - @a777fan @gerryvz @gsxr - unfortunately those "Hot Rod Sleeves" (USA product) on Amazon in 1/4" and 1/2" diameter are not Amazon prime products. Therefore, with shipping costs, they end up being 2x - 3x more expensive than other supposedly equivalent 1000F continuous / 2000F intermittent sheathing products on Amazon that are Amazon prime products. That's a bummer because I would be willing to pay a little premium for a US made product, but not 2x - 3x once shipping is factored in.

Anyways, here are substitutes that I found:

Amazon.com: WISAUTO High Temp Black Auto Heat Sleeve Fiberglass Adjustable Heat Shield Black Color (10FT X 6MM(1/4'')): Automotive

Buy WISAUTO High Temp Black Auto Heat Sleeve Fiberglass Adjustable Heat Shield Black Color (10FT X 6MM(1/4'')): Automotive - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CF2XB7M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3EPP3ERXX9OFQ&psc=1

EDIT 2 / UPDATE 2 - If you order both "Hot Rod Sleeve" heatshield products from Amazon, you only get hit with 1x shipping costs instead of 2x shipping costs since both are from the same vendor. I can deal with that for the satisfaction of getting a made-in-USA product.

 

[dionphaneuf]

Next time I see a compatible ETA in a yard I'm grabbing it and sending it to Don. He did a great job fixing mine and I'm not certain he'll be around forever; can't hurt to have more parts on the shelf if I get another M119 car of the era.

 

[gsxr]

Next time I see a compatible ETA in a yard I'm grabbing it and sending it to Don. He did a great job fixing mine and I'm not certain he'll be around forever; can't hurt to have more parts on the shelf if I get another M119 car of the era.

Just keep in mind that the pre-facelift and post-facelift cars use different connectors... and a 140-chassis unit is also an acceptable donor, with longer wire. And that ASR vs non-ASR are not interchangeable. So, if hoarding one for a car you don't yet own, think about what year/model/options you might buy in the future.

 

[a777fan]

Awesome thanks:

For reference, here is @a777fan's post about the sheathing: OWNER - a777fan (E420) | Owners and Their Cars
And he got these two sheathing products from Amazon:

View attachment 136587

@a777fan, as I am now following in your footsteps, have you been satisfied with these two sheathing products 2 years on, subtracting the 6 months that Uter sat on your driveway? Are these heatshield sleeves split (for easy wire insertion) or unsplit?

Yep! Its performance has been most excellent. Still in great shape, and appears to be doing its job quite well.

Besides, its got a 'kick-ass' hot rod on the packaging. What more could you ask for??!

 

[gerryvz]

The sheathing is UNSPLIT. I actually ended up NOT using one of the sizes at all, if I remember correctly.

The McFLAPS corrugated stuff is split and easy to apply. I used that (as it was originally) on the wires that are attached to the edges of the transmission oilpan. Another piece near the power-steering "S" hose area of the engine. Worked well. I'm sure it will disintegrate in 10 years.

But I used the Triple-Trouble hot-rod sleeving on the parts where in the diagram it called for the MB sheathing. I think one of the MB sheaths went NLA anyway, so I just bagged it. I still have the other two that I ordered, but didn't use.

Triple Trouble's OWNER thread makes a nice guide to what I think you are trying to do, @Jlaa. He will never know the extent of the scope creep influence that he had on my COVID project....

 

[gerryvz]

Next time I see a compatible ETA in a yard I'm grabbing it and sending it to Don. He did a great job fixing mine and I'm not certain he'll be around forever; can't hurt to have more parts on the shelf if I get another M119 car of the era.

Exactly my sentiment in the fact that I need to send him one of my spares as well. As the @gsxr said, a W140 unit will work perfectly, but the main cable is longer due to the larger W140 engine bay, so you'll have a bit of extra cable to route. But if you do send Don a W140 unit, you could ask him to attach a shorter length of cabling to it that is appropriate for a W124 engine bay. I'm sure he'd oblige the request.

 

[Jlaa]

But I used the Triple-Trouble hot-rod sleeving on the parts where in the diagram it called for the MB sheathing. I think one of the MB sheaths went NLA anyway, so I just bagged it.

Yep, I ran into this. 040621-010200 which is described in diagram 119.974-14-124 of the EPC as "Insulating Hose - 850mm" is NLA.

I still have the other two that I ordered, but didn't use.

040621-008200 = "Insulating Hose - 280mm"
040621-008200 = "Insulating Hose - 210mm"

Triple Trouble's OWNER thread makes a nice guide to what I think you are trying to do, @Jlaa. He will never know the extent of the scope creep influence that he had on my COVID project....

Thanks, I'm reacquainting myself this past morning with @a777fan's goldmine of top end rebuild information! If I can get within 75% of his perfection I'd be very very happy. FWIW --- I'm already going nuts with scope creep. Once I finish this ginormous spreadsheet I think I will convert it to gsheet and share w/ us all.



BTW @gerryvz maybe we should eliminate this thread as a standalone thread and graft it onto the "Top End Resto" thread since this thread has scope creeped itself. What do you think?

 

[a777fan]

Thanks, I'm reacquainting myself this past morning with @a777fan's goldmine of top end rebuild information! If I can get within 75% of his perfection I'd be very very happy. FWIW --- I'm already going nuts with scope creep. Once I finish this ginormous spreadsheet I think I will convert it to gsheet and share w/ us all.

You'll be more than fine! If I can do it you certainly can.

Love the googlie spreadsheet btw. Amazingly capable and the sharing feature makes them SO useful!

 

[gerryvz]

I was going to cleave it off. It may be the genesis of another project, so perhaps a JLAA Top-End Refresh project thread would be best.

I had major scope creep, but some of mine was things I found when I got into the job.

My project originally REALLY started as a front crank seal replacement, along with lower wiring harness, and a possible ETA rebuild (as both harness and ETA wiring were original). I knew my throttle cable was pretty baked and ready for replacement. I wanted to install the red valve covers I'd had powder coated a couple of years ago. I had from the air injection system persisting for quite a number of years. And my original hood pad was getting pretty crumbly.

I knew my rubber hoses atop the engine were in good enough shape -- I had already replaced them in the mid-aughts when I lived in Portland. I knew cam seals needed checking (oil leaks), but mine weren't too bad. Nor were my caps and rotors. Water pump was working fine, but why not replace it as it had to come off anyway? Then I found the broken timing chain guide. And I had a brand new factory NOS SLS tank to install. And dilapidated foam under the head lights, and pintle caps on the injectors, and the list started going on and on.

I was Über (not Üter, mind you) tight with Eddie, the parts department manager at MB Annapolis, during the pandemic. Because MB Annapolis, Home Depot, an occasional grocery store run and the US Post Office were about the only places I went between March and December of last year.

 

[Jlaa]

I was Über (not Üter, mind you) tight with Eddie, the parts department manager at MB Annapolis, during the pandemic. Because MB Annapolis, Home Depot, an occasional grocery store run and the US Post Office were about the only places I went between March and December of last year.

Yeah I can tell because your parts prices got progressively cheaper from 2018-2020. You got a better and better discount and the final prices you paid are quite fantastic and below Ed Hicks & Naperville's price (comparing your "no shipping cost" price to Naperville's "free shipping for orders $>100 price"). That said, your local sales taxes I think eat up the price advantage so that it was more or less par for you.

 

[gerryvz]

Yeah I can tell because your parts prices got progressively cheaper from 2018-2020. You got a better and better discount and the final prices you paid are quite fantastic and below Ed Hicks & Naperville's price (comparing your "no shipping cost" price to Naperville's "free shipping for orders $>100 price"). That said, your local sales taxes I think eat up the price advantage so that it was more or less par for you.

We have a straight 6% sales tax here in MD. It is what it is. But I spent a lot of money with MB Annapolis (and continue to -- just recently bought a new pair of front struts plus associated hardware kits, etc.).

 

[Jlaa]

@gerryvz in your top-end-resto thread, I noted that you bought

• 10 meters of 000-158-14-35 "Transparent Tecalan pipe" manufactured by Cohline from AutohausAZ.

Looking at the slam-panel sticker and at @gsxr's Tecalan thread, I see that:

• The vacuum tubes are supposed to be all sorts of colors
• Most if not all of the color variations seem to be NLA from Mercedes Benz.

Was your intention by ordering 10 meters of the Cohline stuff just to replace all these Tecalan vacuum tubes with the same default Transparent color without bothering to try and find the right color?

 

[gerryvz]

Correct. Much if not most of the colored vacuum lines are NLA from MB. Thus, I bought generic stuff to replace them. Some of it is ensconced in the Üterian Hot Rod Sleeve, so it is not that visible anyway. But yes, that is what I did.

I found the same thing about 11 years ago when I pulled the heads and rebuilt the top end of my M117. About 50% of the colored vacuum lines were NLA at that time. I'm sure it's bloody most of them now.

I'm sure one can purchase appropriately colored vacuum lines on the aftermarket, but I did not bother with this.

BTW, I believe that Tecalan is the larger diameter black tubing that runs from the ETA to the "MOT" purge valve on the driver's side inner fender next to the EZL. The regular vacuum line is just that, plastic vacuum line. Not sure it is Tecalan, but it could be.

 

[Jlaa]

Here is a gsheet of parts that I will be using. I got the list of parts originally from @gerryvz's Top End Restoration Thread

I do not intend to open the cam covers or replace timing chain guides / oiler tubes / etc since I had that done 3.5 years ago.
As well, I do not intend to refurbish the coolant system since I put in new hoses / radiator / visco fan clutch 3.5 years ago. I do, however, intend to replace the hose @ the firewall that is accessible once the intake manifold is removed. I have a spare water pump that I do not intend to use, but maybe I will scope creep.

• I reverse-looked-up all the EPC diagrams from Gerry's list of parts and added twelve diagrams to the spreadsheet
• For each part, I indicated the which diagram and which number each part pertained to. I tried to color code the part to the diagram.
• Then I cross checked which parts he received in his hand written documents here and I found a few parts missing from the Top End Resto Thread and added them
• I added part 50 from diagram 119.974-14-125 which I believe was missing
• I added additional plastic pieces/covers around the cam magnet area / spark plug wire tray that are often broken
• I compared 2021 pricing with 2020 pricing from various vendors
• I ordered some parts (still not done ordering) and indicated which vendor I ordered from

500E top end - 1993

docs.google.com

 

[gerryvz]

There are TWO heater hoses — I would replace both of them. They are not horribly bad to do.

Will you replace the power steering “S” hose along with the short hose? SLS tank line? Foam under the headlight buckets? Aux fan resistor? CPS (I have a spare but didn’t replace my original)? I take air temp sensor? Smog pump hoses (likely fossilized)?

 

[Jlaa]

There are TWO heater hoses — I would replace both of them. They are not horribly bad to do.

Thanks - yes I have both hoses on the spreadsheet - 124-830-54-96 and 124-830-76-96

Will you replace the power steering “S” hose along with the short hose? SLS tank line? Foam under the headlight buckets?

Done in 2016.

Aux fan resistor?

I have an OE spare on the shelf. I've been collecting. Thanks to @gsxr for reminding me.

CPS (I have a spare but didn’t replace my original)? I take air temp sensor? Smog pump hoses (likely fossilized)?

I didn't intend on replacing the crank position sensor. I've replaced the air intake temp sensor. The smog pump stuff is also on the spreadsheet
119-094-45-82
119-094-46-82
119-094-47-82
119-094-72-82

 

[Jlaa]

I have received what feels like a zillion parts from Naperville MB @MBoemparts - Bob and Nick and the gang. I am still waiting for a few more parts that I ordered from SF Benz parts that need to come from Germany. It is quite a task to cross check all the received parts against the spreadsheet I built in post 35.

 

[dionphaneuf]

The parts desk attendant at SFBenz parts is....not great. I always double check everything while there, and frequently end up having to go back for an issue.

 

[Jlaa]

The parts desk attendant at SFBenz parts is....not great. I always double check everything while there, and frequently end up having to go back for an issue.

Are you speaking of Megan or someone else?

 

[dionphaneuf]

Her. She's very nice and talkative but it sometimes things get mixed up, in particular small washers/gaskets/fasteners.

 

[gerryvz]

Time to start DOING! Looking forward to the step-by-step !!

 

[gsxr]

@Jlaa, please tell me MBUSA didn't send you ten 1-meter lengths of vacuum tube!!!!

 

[Jlaa]

@Jlaa, please tell me MBUSA didn't send you ten 1-meter lengths of vacuum tube!!!!

Indeed that is what happened. I have the same problem with FCP Euro.

• Mercedes - Ordered 10 meters, I got ten 1-meter-lengths of A 000-158-14-35. Contacted them to rectify and they will send me one 10 meter length.
• FCP Euro - Ordered 3 meters, I got three 1-meter-lengths of COH-0009872727. I contacted FCP Euro and they claimed that they are not able to give me 3 meters. So I decided to return it, and they told me I have to pay for shipping. So after debating with them and telling them that their product page is wrong (doesn't say anything about 1 meter limitation) they relented and paid for the return shipping. Irritating.
  • Mercedes Vacuum Line 1x8mm - Cohline 0009872727

 

[dreaming.haze]

I noted the same `1 meter base for vacuum lines on FCP / Mercedes orders and ordered mine through RM European. Mercedes-Benz Vacuum Line - White - 1.0 X 4.0 mm - (Sold by the Meter) 0001581435 - COHLINE | Was able to get a full 10 meter length (non cut).

 

[Jlaa]

Her. She's very nice and talkative but it sometimes things get mixed up, in particular small washers/gaskets/fasteners.

Hmmmmm.... I've had one small mess up but Megan fixed it quickly. To be fair, I've had mess-ups with all MB dealers. So far she has been really responsive to my orders but I wonder --- has Megan been able to make the order-mess-up up to you?

 

[Jlaa]

I noted the same `1 meter base for vacuum lines on FCP / Mercedes orders and ordered mine through RM European. Mercedes-Benz Vacuum Line - White - 1.0 X 4.0 mm - (Sold by the Meter) 0001581435 - COHLINE | Was able to get a full 10 meter length (non cut).

Thanks. Did you get this from RM European as well? Did they give you multiple one meter lengths of a continuous length?

 

[dreaming.haze]

@Jlaa - Correct on the continuous length, ordered 3 meters of it at the same time.

 

[JC220]

Unfortunately I have seen and done it all. Note that sometimes the parts systems will sub another PN which is incorrect and they run with it anyway.

Another oddity is transmission seal kits.

If you buy a 722.6 seal kit from the MB dealer you pay about £120 for an incomplete kit. Where MB revised some of the crucial seals they omitted them from the full seal kits!

Therefore I buy Febi German made OE Kaco 722.6 seal kits which come will ALL updated revised seals in the packet for about £60. I returned some MB kits to my dealer due to this nonsense.

Double check all your large orders. They will always sub or mess several parts up. I foresee this now for the most part and triple check during orders but some stuff still slips by. Hence I have drawers and shelves full of random new MB seal rings etc that didn't fit.

 

[gerryvz]

If you order the Tecalan tubing from AHAZ or FCP et al, you will get one continuous piece of tubing, not individual 1-meter lengths.