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SLS struts (Repaired by RMT in Florida)

@PedigreePartners,
By chance if your lower bushing is worn out OEM part # 204 352 00 27 for the lower rear shock mount it’s still available at MB Laredo for $54.00.

IMOP it was an easy R&R install
That is not the lower busing on the shock. I replaced this bushing on the rear hub but didn’t make a difference with the noise. Handling was improved.
 

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Folks are confusing the LOWER CARRIER JOINT BUSHING here with the LOWER SLS STRUT BUSHING.

Both bushings fail. As noted in the how-to for the rear SLS struts, the lower strut bushing failure causes a clunking (especially over bumps) and the bushing itself is not replaceable. It requires the entire SLS strut to be replaced.

The lower carrier joint bushing also wears out and can cause noises if super worn, as well as handling problems. It requires a special press tool (available as an aftermarket tool) to remove and then press in. By 100-125K miles, both of these parts will need to be replaced.

These are not the same part and BOTH should be replaced, because both will fail with time and mileage. Folks should also consider replacing the rear SLS spheres, as well. I’m hoping these forum HOW-TO articles can assist folks with these jobs.

HOW-TO for Rear SLS Strut Replacement:



HOW-TO for Rear Lower Carrier Joint Bushing:



HOW-TO for Rear SLS Spheres:

 
It seems they repair the hydraulic function that rarely fails and ignore the spherical bushings that are the common failure.
Drew, I was insinuating they aren't touching ANYTHING besides paint & decals. I'm not sure how they are disassembling the shock to access the internal components.

Also, I've had a shock "rattle" from the SLS where the lower spherical bushing was perfect. I'm still trying to figure out what internally can cause the noise.

:detective:

 
Well, in any case it's not sounding like the "rebuild" company is a viable option, at least for replacing the bushings at the lower end of the SLS struts. I know on the W126 struts that there was a viable solution being developed for those SLS struts, which was noted in a detailed thread on the 126board (which will be coming back up in the near future).

And someone here, some years back, evidently had succeeded in replacing the SLS strut lower bushing with another part, but IIRC they didn't follow up by posting here again after they teased everyone with what they were doing. Anyone remember that thread? Probably searchable.

:update: / EDIT: I think it was this thread -- ?


I guess the only real, viable solution in the short term is to :spend: ......
 
Not sure if this has been mentioned but 600 Air suspension (Martin Werminghausen) does fantastic work on struts for the 6.9 and such. Maybe he'll take these on too if asked?
 
Well, in any case it's not sounding like the "rebuild" company is a viable option, at least for replacing the bushings at the lower end of the SLS struts. I know on the W126 struts that there was a viable solution being developed for those SLS struts, which was noted in a detailed thread on the 126board (which will be coming back up in the near future).

And someone here, some years back, evidently had succeeded in replacing the SLS strut lower bushing with another part, but IIRC they didn't follow up by posting here again after they teased everyone with what they were doing.:oldman: Anyone remember that thread? Probably searchable.

:update: / EDIT: I think it was this thread -- ?


I guess the only real, viable solution in the short term is to :spend: ......
Reading that old thread is really disheartening, as the conclusion back then seems to be that nothing but new shocks will really cure this. With rear shocks now NLA, this is a real issue. The single set that gets listed in this recent thread as the "buy this one" example is just that - the one and only set. I have been keeping an eye out for rear shocks in my daily search for other parts and I have not come across another set for sale since these went NLA roughly two years ago. So what the hell are people going to do??

It makes me gag when I think that MB is in the meantime issuing high gloss marketing statements on how unbelievably supportive they are of vintage cars and how you can still buy parts for cars made in the 50s. What a clown car of an organization that place has become
:oldman:
 
Getting regular shocks and rigging up a fabbed up hydraulic hose to complete the loop of the SLS I guess. Maybe one of you engineer types can create some type of system saver hydraulic solution for the interim period until the spring legs get offered.
 
Response from Martin. I am happy to play point person on this if there is interest.

SLS struts. I am aware of the SLS strut situation since MB stopped offering them. I have done some exploration in the past but decided not to offer the service. Main reason- people did not want to spend money for a properly rebuilt SLS strut.

They were fairly cheap when they were still available. However, proper rebuilding is a lot of work.

Maybe the 500E is a different story and people are willing to spend what it's worth. We will see. I'd start something like this if I had a minimum order of 10 struts to compensate for the tooling, sourcing rubber boots, machining Teflon rings and so on. The rebuilding costs will be roughly that of a HPF strut, ball joint not included.
 
Oooo. That is interesting.

Anyone know what the cost is of a "HPF strut"?

I'm curious if Martin could source a suitable lower spherical joint.

:jono:
 
Roy aka @liviu165 did a lot of work on the W126 versions and may have some insight on similar refresh for W124 versions (both NLA and very different attachment methods but share the same general system).
 
How about someone with the forum skills start a thread where people can list how many have used units needing rebuilt. I have a set. Gerry may have a set shortly. Dave may have multiple sets. I would think Jonothan may have several sets. Surely there are others.
 
I pinged Martin with some additional information... fingers crossed he may be able to engineer a proper solution. AFAICT there are 3 major hurdles:

1) Figuring out how to disassemble & reassemble the hydroleg (I've tried, and couldn't do it)
2) Sourcing a correct size / hardness PU foam stop buffer
3) Sourcing a suitable spherical lower bushing, assuming the old one can be pressed out (I've never tried)

The rest should be O-rings and (if applicable) Teflon seals. I only have low-resolution photos of internals, from someone who cut one open on a lathe. These pics are from 2015-ish, and were probably posted on the forum back then.

1738188298394.jpeg 1738188304702.jpeg
 
450SEL 6.9 hydropneumatic struts (both the front + rear units) went NLA many many years ago - at least 10 years ago, perhaps even 15 years ago. Same for the units used on the "Euro" V126 cars equipped with the four-corner hydropneumatic suspension, as well as the V/C126 models with the rear-only SLS (i.e. all US-spec 560seX cars). Dunno about the 2.3-16 cars, which also had SLS in the rear....perhaps @captruff can chime in as to availability on those.

I remember visiting Robert Fenton many years ago, and over time he would have 5 sets, then 2 sets, then none left of the NOS 6.9 hydro-legs. And he was getting good money for them even back then, because supply was dwindling fast.

There are several successful rebuilders of these 6.9 SLS units, but I don't think they have the same lower joint issues that the E500E rear struts do.

My guess is that at some point in the future, the demand for SLS rear struts for the 124 and 126 (at least) is going to reach a point where MB or ZF Sachs will commission a production run of them. But this could be many years from now. Until then, jumping on NOS sets that come up is probably the best bet, but won't be cheap.
 
I am curious why KW suspension has a alternative shock kit for the W124 when the purchase selection indicates SLS..


They have a video on W201 suspension, but nothing but a teaser pic on line about the 500E.



I wonder if they created a hydraulic compatible solution for our chassis..
 
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I am curious why KW suspension has a alternative shock kit for the W124 when the purchase selection indicates SLS..

They have a video on W201 suspension, but nothing but a teaser pic on line about the 500E.
I recoil (pun intended) in horror any time I see "coilover" for the 124/201/129 chassis. Thankfully, the KW design is not a coilover. It's simply replacement dampers/springs with a threaded, adjustable spring perch to allow variable ride height. Twiddling the threaded spring perch allows more finite settings vs the factory rubber spring pads. I really like the adjustable compression & rebound damping, AND the separate high-speed and low-speed damping design. I wish they would sell the front struts separately from everything else. I don't really need fancy spring adjusters. It does look like a very nice kit for standard, non-SLS applications.


I wonder if they created a hydraulic compatible solution for our chassis..
No, they have not created a hydraulic / SLS solution. Their website is BAD. More like terrible. It shows generic, stock-photo coilovers in the product photos on the page that is specific to the 500E! WHY? The company is willing to invest in engineering a nice damper set but too lazy to have application-specific photographs on their vehicle-specific webpage? :facepalm: :doh:

Thankfully, KW has good installation instructions which show the actual components being installed on a 500E. The SLS is disabled and lines are blocked off. The SLS valve is locked into bypass position. Couple of interesting tidbits, they require minimum 5mm air gap between front strut and tire sidewall. And, the recommended minimum ride height (fender lip to wheel center) is 13.0" front, 13.25" rear... a bit below what GSXR has been saying for decades as the absolute lowest you'd ever want for street driving.

Scroll near the end of the PDF for on-car installation photos:


:oldman:

1738245526315.png 1738245549818.png
 
This is what I'm complaining about on the KW website. The items shown in the photos are not what you get in the box for a 124 chassis KW application. The rear shock may look similar to what's shown, but there's no way to tell for certain.

1738245866237.png
 
Just re-discovered this epic thread from 2021 with details about the design of the lower SLS hydroleg spherical joint:


Bad news is, it will be difficult or impossible to replace with the OE design components. And, it requires machining to open up the swaged (crimped) lower aluminum eyelet.

Clearly, as seen in the photos in post #45 earlier in this thread: RMT in FL is not doing ANYTHING to repair these lower joints if play exists. They are not even replacing the external dust seal! In the photo below the soft seal (and grease) are all missing!

:kaboom:

1738256274020.png
 
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I think the first trial might be to have the swaged area machined out to remove the spherical joint for duplication. A groove could be machined in at the time to accept an internal circlip. might even get by with doing just one side. Any Atlanta area machinists interested?
 
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has anyone reached out to Nagengast in Poland? They've been rebuilding NLA bmw EDC (electronic dampening control), and SLS struts/shocks for nearly (maybe over ) 10 years. I've got a rebuilt set on my euro M5 sedan with about 50k km post rebuild, and they're working great. They also rebuild non-edc bmw SLS, as well as other manufacturers.
 
When RMT rebuilt mine, the spherical bushings where the strut mounts to the control arm were rebuilt. You can see this in the pictures I posted. I’m not 100% sure what the bump stop should look like so I can’t really comment on whether or not mine were done correctly. When I reinstalled everything, the hydro leveling function worked properly. I have only driven the car a few miles since reinstalling the rear struts, but I believe they are functioning correctly.
 
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Are you referring the the rebuilder in Poland or RMT?
I was referring to Nagengast [in Poland]:

 
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I pinged Martin with some additional information... fingers crossed he may be able to engineer a proper solution. AFAICT there are 3 major hurdles:

1) Figuring out how to disassemble & reassemble the hydroleg (I've tried, and couldn't do it)
2) Sourcing a correct size / hardness PU foam stop buffer
3) Sourcing a suitable spherical lower bushing, assuming the old one can be pressed out (I've never tried)

The rest should be O-rings and (if applicable) Teflon seals. I only have low-resolution photos of internals, from someone who cut one open on a lathe. These pics are from 2015-ish, and were probably posted on the forum back then.

View attachment 207391 View attachment 207392
If you guys want me to send the one used assembly I got from a salvage yard in GA to Martin for evaluation purposes, I am happy do; I'm losing hope that anyone will cough up a second spare used unit for me to send as a complete pair for refurbishing.
 
If you guys want me to send the one used assembly I got from a salvage yard in GA to Martin for evaluation purposes, I am happy do; I'm losing hope that anyone will cough up a second spare used unit for me to send as a complete pair for refurbishing.
I have a defective 500E hydroleg that I plan to send to Martin for forensic analysis and engineering development. This shock is physically damaged, beyond reasonable repair. The top mounting nuts seized and the threaded post was cut off to allow removal. This particular unit was removed for the typical rattle/clunk noise, similar to what is heard in the video shown in my earlier post (but on a different car). I did not detect any play in the lower spherical bushing, so I'm curious what Martin discovers.

:detective:
 
Has anyone seen member tirag lately? He said he sent his E60 shocks to repair in Germany when he was getting his E60 restored. Never saw if that panned out for him and if the shocks were done well......maybe he has unearthed a viable repair source?
 
I have a defective 500E hydroleg that I plan to send to Martin for forensic analysis and engineering development. This shock is physically damaged, beyond reasonable repair. The top mounting nuts seized and the threaded post was cut off to allow removal. This particular unit was removed for the typical rattle/clunk noise, similar to what is heard in the video shown in my earlier post (but on a different car). I did not detect any play in the lower spherical bushing, so I'm curious what Martin discovers.
OK! Since mine may be entirely fine (came off of a 70K mile wreck and shows no outward signs of damage), I'll gladly hold onto it in hopes I find a second. Thanks for being the guinea pig!
 
These have been replaced on my 500E, but not my E320 wagon.
Sorry to hijack the thread but an answer would be greatly appreciated.

My son has a 124 E280 wagon. He pointed out that, after a week or so, and as we now have freezing temperatures, the rear of the wagon has dropped very slightly. It looked very slightly low but I've forgotted details from my 123 wagon days.

I think it rises to normal when started.

Does this sound like impending misery.

Best to all.

RayH
 
Another related SLS thread.

In particular read post #'s 30, 32, and 44:

 
Another related SLS thread.

In particular read post #'s 30, 32, and 44:

I think I already linked to that thread, back in post #55, back on January 29th.

:jelmerian: :mushroom: :klink:
 
Roy aka @liviu165 did a lot of work on the W126 versions and may have some insight on similar refresh for W124 versions (both NLA and very different attachment methods but share the same general system).
Hi Guys! I am not here that often, sorry for the delay. I am a W126 guy, here only from time to time. Awaiting with great interest the re-launch of the 126board, then I will be there a regular again.

Yes, I started a thread about the W126 hydraulic struts rebuilt on the 126board and got some good results, but due to luck of time and personal interest, I stopped (I have a brand new set of rams in the box).

There is a gentleman in Boston who successfully rebuilt the W126 ones (he is member on the 126board, unfortunately not here):
  • He correctly identified all the internal components of the strut and bought them. They all fit and after the install, the struts did not leak
  • He was able to machine the strut's end ball joint for the W/C126 from Ford Crownvic LCA ball joints to fit the W/C126. I saw the design and is very solid. It would be only one improvement/change that I would (perhaps) make
  • The dust boot of the strut was not available from MB, so I found a pretty close one used on Volkswagen (I posted the info in the tread on 126board). Later, MB started offering them again.
On the 126 hydraulic struts, to take them apart, all you need is to drill a small hole in the cylinder housing at the bottom of the strut, at the same level with the retaining clip, right between the two ends of the clip. Then rotate the clip till one end covers the hole. After that, push from the outside a small needle thru the hole and the spring clip pops out from the inside. From there, is just patience and skill.

The problem with those W/C126 struts is that many people say they "rebuild" them, but in fact all they do is replace only the hydraulic internal components, not also the ball joint at the bottom (which is NLA from MB). What is worth a strut that does not leak, but rattles at every hole? That's why the gentleman's work caught my eye, he replaced the ball joint too!

I hope the above info helps you a bit, although the 124 struts are different, as I can see. If needed because of genuine interest here, I can contact him and see if he is interested in helping you. He has his own small machine shop.

@nocfn - He sent you a complete set for a rebuild (seals and ball joints), which I have in my garage. I just need to find the two struts you sent me (which are also somewhere in my garage).
 
Hi Guys! I am not here that often, sorry for the delay. I am a W126 guy, here only from time to time. Awaiting with great interest the re-launch of the 126board, then I will be there a regular again.

Yes, I started a thread about the W126 hydraulic struts rebuilt on the 126board and got some good results, but due to luck of time and personal interest, I stopped (I have a brand new set of rams in the box).

There is a gentleman in Boston who successfully rebuilt the W126 ones (he is member on the 126board, unfortunately not here):
  • He correctly identified all the internal components of the strut and bought them. They all fit and after the install, the struts did not leak
  • He was able to machine the strut's end ball joint for the W/C126 from Ford Crownvic LCA ball joints to fit the W/C126. I saw the design and is very solid. It would be only one improvement/change that I would (perhaps) make
  • The dust boot of the strut was not available from MB, so I found a pretty close one used on Volkswagen (I posted the info in the tread on 126board). Later, MB started offering them again.
On the 126 hydraulic struts, to take them apart, all you need is to drill a small hole in the cylinder housing at the bottom of the strut, at the same level with the retaining clip, right between the two ends of the clip. Then rotate the clip till one end covers the hole. After that, push from the outside a small needle thru the hole and the spring clip pops out from the inside. From there, is just patience and skill.

The problem with those W/C126 struts is that many people say they "rebuild" them, but in fact all they do is replace only the hydraulic internal components, not also the ball joint at the bottom (which is NLA from MB). What is worth a strut that does not leak, but rattles at every hole? That's why the gentleman's work caught my eye, he replaced the ball joint too!

I hope the above info helps you a bit, although the 124 struts are different, as I can see. If needed because of genuine interest here, I can contact him and see if he is interested in helping you. He has his own small machine shop.

@nocfn - He sent you a complete set for a rebuild (seals and ball joints), which I have in my garage. I just need to find the two struts you sent me (which are also somewhere in my garage).
I can't say I understand all that but it's great to hear about the efforts of a true craftsman.

It reminds me of a small UK company I heard of that made a complete suspension system for Porsche 911s. Apparently it was very highly regarded.

RayH
 
Hi Guys! I am not here that often, sorry for the delay. I am a W126 guy, here only from time to time. Awaiting with great interest the re-launch of the 126board, then I will be there a regular again.

Yes, I started a thread about the W126 hydraulic struts rebuilt on the 126board and got some good results, but due to luck of time and personal interest, I stopped (I have a brand new set of rams in the box).

There is a gentleman in Boston who successfully rebuilt the W126 ones (he is member on the 126board, unfortunately not here):
  • He correctly identified all the internal components of the strut and bought them. They all fit and after the install, the struts did not leak
  • He was able to machine the strut's end ball joint for the W/C126 from Ford Crownvic LCA ball joints to fit the W/C126. I saw the design and is very solid. It would be only one improvement/change that I would (perhaps) make
  • The dust boot of the strut was not available from MB, so I found a pretty close one used on Volkswagen (I posted the info in the tread on 126board). Later, MB started offering them again.
On the 126 hydraulic struts, to take them apart, all you need is to drill a small hole in the cylinder housing at the bottom of the strut, at the same level with the retaining clip, right between the two ends of the clip. Then rotate the clip till one end covers the hole. After that, push from the outside a small needle thru the hole and the spring clip pops out from the inside. From there, is just patience and skill.

The problem with those W/C126 struts is that many people say they "rebuild" them, but in fact all they do is replace only the hydraulic internal components, not also the ball joint at the bottom (which is NLA from MB). What is worth a strut that does not leak, but rattles at every hole? That's why the gentleman's work caught my eye, he replaced the ball joint too!

I hope the above info helps you a bit, although the 124 struts are different, as I can see. If needed because of genuine interest here, I can contact him and see if he is interested in helping you. He has his own small machine shop.

@nocfn - He sent you a complete set for a rebuild (seals and ball joints), which I have in my garage. I just need to find the two struts you sent me (which are also somewhere in my garage).
Boston = Martin? Are we talking about the same guy?
 
@500AMM spotted this interesting offering from MKB. I wonder who they outsource this to... and, what lower bushing is used. The attached photo does NOT inspire confidence.

:scratchchin:



Repair of level damper​


800.00 €
Prices include VAT, plus shipping costs.

Please note: Processing will be done on an exchange basis, meaning you must send in your old parts. Processing time after receipt: 8 – 12 business days .
For defective or missing plugs, we charge an additional fee of €5.95 per plug. However, this is always documented and rarely occurs.
In cases of fire damage or unsuccessful DIY attempts, please contact us before ordering.

Categories: SL280/280SL, SL320/320SL , E420/400E, E500/500E, E60 AMG , S280/280SE, S320/320SE , S420/400SE, S500/500SE + AMG models , S600/600SE + AMG models , SL500/500SL, SL60 AMG , SL600/600SL, SL70 AMG, SL73 AMG , 300 SD Turbo, S 350 Turbodiesel , E280, E320


Description

Even when looking for functional dampers for various Mercedes models with level control, we quickly came to the conclusion that these are either no longer available or cost a four-digit sum per damper! We are all the more pleased to be able to offer you this service now.
For replacement, the existing dampers are sent to us and professionally overhauled. What does the overhaul entail?
  • Dismantling, blasting and powder-coating of the individual dampers and attachments
  • Replacement of the cuffs and bearings

IMPORTANT!

The final visual appearance varies from damper to damper. Depending on corrosion, wear, and mileage, different results can occur. The flawless technical function remains the same. We do not manufacture the products ourselves in-house.

Your benefits at a glance:
  • Cost savings of up to 75% compared to Mercedes-Benz prices
  • The original parts are NO LONGER AVAILABLE!

Procedure:
  1. Order the appropriate repair by placing an order here in our shop
  2. Remove the parts from the vehicle that you would like us to professionally repair.
  3. Send the removed and roughly cleaned parts to our company address: (MKB TEC, Hauptstraße 26, 35463 Fernwald-Steinbach)
1741876179652.png Daempfer.png
 
@500AMM spotted this interesting offering from MKB. I wonder who they outsource this to... and, what lower bushing is used. The attached photo does NOT inspire confidence.

:scratchchin:



Repair of level damper​


800.00 €
Prices include VAT, plus shipping costs.

Please note: Processing will be done on an exchange basis, meaning you must send in your old parts. Processing time after receipt: 8 – 12 business days .
For defective or missing plugs, we charge an additional fee of €5.95 per plug. However, this is always documented and rarely occurs.
In cases of fire damage or unsuccessful DIY attempts, please contact us before ordering.

Categories: SL280/280SL, SL320/320SL , E420/400E, E500/500E, E60 AMG , S280/280SE, S320/320SE , S420/400SE, S500/500SE + AMG models , S600/600SE + AMG models , SL500/500SL, SL60 AMG , SL600/600SL, SL70 AMG, SL73 AMG , 300 SD Turbo, S 350 Turbodiesel , E280, E320


Description

Even when looking for functional dampers for various Mercedes models with level control, we quickly came to the conclusion that these are either no longer available or cost a four-digit sum per damper! We are all the more pleased to be able to offer you this service now.
For replacement, the existing dampers are sent to us and professionally overhauled. What does the overhaul entail?
  • Dismantling, blasting and powder-coating of the individual dampers and attachments
  • Replacement of the cuffs and bearings

IMPORTANT!

The final visual appearance varies from damper to damper. Depending on corrosion, wear, and mileage, different results can occur. The flawless technical function remains the same. We do not manufacture the products ourselves in-house.

Your benefits at a glance:
  • Cost savings of up to 75% compared to Mercedes-Benz prices
  • The original parts are NO LONGER AVAILABLE!

Procedure:
  1. Order the appropriate repair by placing an order here in our shop
  2. Remove the parts from the vehicle that you would like us to professionally repair.
  3. Send the removed and roughly cleaned parts to our company address: (MKB TEC, Hauptstraße 26, 35463 Fernwald-Steinbach)
View attachment 210039 View attachment 210040
I'm taking this a bit further as I simply called the CEO. :)

They will replace everything besides the damper housing and the pressed connection hose. They don't do it in-house yet, but the invoice comes from MKB and so the quality is brilliant. MKB can also overhaul ADS dampers. No matter which model.
 
I'm taking this a bit further as I simply called the CEO. :)

They will replace everything besides the damper housing and the pressed connection hose. They don't do it in-house yet, but the invoice comes from MKB and so the quality is brilliant. MKB can also overhaul ADS dampers. No matter which model.
The 124 SLS hydrolegs do not have a hose connected, it's a bolt-on fitting. No issues there.

The real question is what, if anything, MKB is doing to refresh the lower spherical joint. See photos in posts #45 and #72 earlier in this thread. Those photos show a bad repair job - the external seals were removed and no replacement seals were installed; worse yet the joint is original and untouched! Since this joint is possibly the most common failure on these shocks, it's inexcusable that the joint is not replaced/refreshed. The MKB photo shows the same defect.

The original joint is swaged / crimped in place and requires cutting / machining to remove the original. So far nobody (that I know of) has located a suitable replacement spherical joint, nor a method to install a suitable replacement if available. Some people have installed rubber or urethane bushings in place of the metal spherical joint but that's not the OE design.

New ones look like this:

1741888209525.png
 
The 124 SLS hydrolegs do not have a hose connected, it's a bolt-on fitting. No issues there.

The real question is what, if anything, MKB is doing to refresh the lower spherical joint. See photos in posts #45 and #72 earlier in this thread. Those photos show a bad repair job - the external seals were removed and no replacement seals were installed; worse yet the joint is original and untouched! Since this joint is possibly the most common failure on these shocks, it's inexcusable that the joint is not replaced/refreshed. The MKB photo shows the same defect.

The original joint is swaged / crimped in place and requires cutting / machining to remove the original. So far nobody (that I know of) has located a suitable replacement spherical joint, nor a method to install a suitable replacement if available. Some people have installed rubber or urethane bushings in place of the metal spherical joint but that's not the OE design.

New ones look like this:

View attachment 210060
When I spoke to him today, I specifically asked him if they are overhauled to OEM spec. He said yes. I can of course ask him again, but you can be sure that MKB won't ruin its good name with bad work.

I'm not working for them by the way - I just blindly trust the guys there. I've never seen any bad work from them.
 
When I spoke to him today, I specifically asked him if they are overhauled to OEM spec. He said yes. I can of course ask him again, but you can be sure that MKB won't ruin its good name with bad work.

I'm not working for them by the way - I just blindly trust the guys there. I've never seen any bad work from them.
Trust is difficult, hard facts are not.

I’d like to know exactly what they’re doing with the struts. Kienle was highly regarded, but they cheated for years. MKB are reputable, no doubt, and I’m not saying they’re up to no good, but full disclosure on what you get for €800, not performed in house, is a fair ask I think.

I’m so happy if we finally get a full complete repair option for the struts!
 
Any update on this? I read another orphaned discussion referenced by Gerry in this thread above describing rebuilding the bushing that turned on a phantom BMW bushing part. That discussion seem to have died after the poster disappeared.

Orphaned discussions are frustrating.
 
"Some people have installed rubber or urethane bushings in place of the metal spherical joint but that's not the OE design."

The local guy who is doing this lower bushing replacement is using an Italian (maybe Lancia?) bushing and it needs to go in the CNC-machine. Not sure how is the looks at the end.... maybe not OE design.... but when you bolt on and it does not clunk anymore.....it is already better....
But I do understand that if you are looking for OE design, you should spend 3k...

It is like myself...... in my 20s I used to have lots of hair... now, in my 50s I have less... if I would like to be OE design I should go to Turkey for hair-implant..... hmmmm.... would be nice :)
 
A bit off topic, but I always saw the SLS as an independent system that just managed balance, so I didn't think there were improved AMG versions.

Are there any major differences in the normal SLS struts versus the AMG ones? Do the AMG versions reduce roll and increase stiffness? They seem extremely rare.
 
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