Rear suspension refresh

[J. M. van Swaay]

1994 E500
130,xxx miles

I recently did the full front end refresh, resulted in a very noticeable difference in overall drive performance. Should have done it much sooner. The wow factor has me inspired to do the rear end as well. Thanks to the great documentation on this site I think I have a pretty good parts list. With that in mind, does anyone know if the Lemforder link kit is still of acceptable (German) quality or is it now Chinese junk like the front lower control arms? Here’s the listing from FCPeuro:

 

[gsxr]

Some of the Lemforder items are now offshore... Turkey, etc. I would price each of the 4 OE/Genuine links from a discount dealer like MB Laredo or Covington for comparison. You can use the aftermarket bolt kits. I think one or two of the OE links may now be offshore as well. I'd get the aluminum torque strut (nice upgrade, minimal extra cost).

The 4 subframe bushings are the main items that will likely be worn out and really in need of replacement. Problem is, the Sportline rear bushing is NLA so you're stuck with aftermarket offshore stuff. And, the forward bushing is only available from the dealer in "short tab" form... I'm on the fence if a German short-tab is any better or worse vs aftermarket "tall tab". There's an old thread discussing this in more detail. I believe the Febi "tall tab" kits will all contain aftermarket bushings now, not the OEM Boge they used to contain in years past.

 

[J. M. van Swaay]

Finally got a parts order together for this. I will use the “assembled in Germany with Turkish components” front bushings and the regular MB rear bushings. I tried to order sway bar bushings, part 210 326 08 81 but they came up NLA. Any other options? Also, the wiki rear suspension parts list references a 12 mm spacer sleeve and bolt upgrade kit for the wheel carrier links. I ordered all 4 links (genuine MB). Is there a way to know if I will need the 12mm spacer sleeve and bolt?

Thanks!

J.

 

[gsxr]

I didn't realize the 18mm rear sway bar bushings went NLA. You should be able to re-use the old ones, these rarely wear out or get damaged.

You won't know for sure if the bolt kits are needed, until you remove the rear links. However, I believe you will end up needing 4-6 total bolt kits (for 2-3 links on each side). It's been a while since I've done this job and I forget if all 3 links (excluding LCA and tie rod) need the kit or not. The aftermarket Lemforder bolt kit works fine.

 

[J. M. van Swaay]

Box of parts arrived this week. Guess there is some wrenching in my future…

 

[emerydc8]

Will be interested to hear if you get any “wow” factor from these.

 

[gsxr]

Box of parts arrived this week. Guess there is some wrenching in my future…

Don't forget to NOT tighten any of those links until the suspension is in the "ready to drive" position, i.e. the axle shaft is level. This is the most difficult / annoying part of the job.

Did you order the bolt kits also, as mentioned previously?

 

[emerydc8]

The Sil-Glyde worked well for me on the lower wheel carrier bushings. Maybe Dave can comment on whether the link bushings would also benefit from it.

https://www.amazon.com/AGS-SIL-Glyde-Multi-Purpose-Weatherproofing-Lubricating/dp/B0036VMLH0/

 

[J. M. van Swaay]

Thanks for the tips! When I did the front LCAs, I lowered the car on to some wood blocking so the weight was on the wheels, gave just enough clearance to get underneath and torque the bolts. Will do the same with the rear links. Was planning to use some liquid soap to facilitate insertion of the bushings, did the same on the LCA bushings, seemed to work well. would there be any reason to use syl glide instead of soap? I would not think soap would affect the rubber….

 

[J. M. van Swaay]

Oh, forgot. Have not yet ordered the bolt kits, will wait to see if they are needed. I’m not in a hurry on this project so it’s OK if the car sits for a week waiting on parts.

 

[gsxr]

Thanks for the tips! When I did the front LCAs, I lowered the car on to some wood blocking so the weight was on the wheels, gave just enough clearance to get underneath and torque the bolts. Will do the same with the rear links.

Sounds good! If that doesn't work, what I do is remove the rear spring by removing the inner LCA pivot bolt. After tightening all link bolts, re-install the spring and leave the pivot bolt slightly loose. Add ballast in the trunk to get the rear ride height level (approx 14.5" from wheel center to fender lip), then slide under the car and tighten the pivot bolt with an impact wrench. Now lift the car and torque to spec. Lowering the car onto blocks to get a few extra inches of space can help. It isn't fun, no matter how you do it.

Was planning to use some liquid soap to facilitate insertion of the bushings, did the same on the LCA bushings, seemed to work well. would there be any reason to use syl glide instead of soap? I would not think soap would affect the rubber….

For the subframe bushings, any lube that is rubber-safe will be fine. Use it sparingly! A little goes a long way. Also, the forward/smaller bushings will want to squeeze back up/out when you release the tool pressure. You may want to leave each forward bushing compressed by the tool overnight to try and keep them in place. The large/rear bushings are usually not a problem.