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AC blower motor

550Maranello

E500E Guru
Member
Hello Chaps,

I wish all you a Happy, Prosperous and Healthy New 2010.

Does anyone know the part number for the AC blower motor and blower regulator? I am not sure if my car (01/93) has an air cabin filter.

Thanks a lot.

Orazio
 
The cabin air filter (located externally, below the wiper) was only used on 1994-1995 models. If your car was built in Jan-1993, it would be a 1993 model, and not have the filter.


:5150:
 
Thank you, Dave. I already ordered the parts.
What is the degree of difficulty of replacing the blower myself?
Orazio
 
It's moderately difficult, mostly it's a pain to take apart all the stuff to access the blower. Actually swapping the blower motor itself is a breeze. After installing the new motor, test it out BEFORE you put everything back together. Make sure it spins quiet & smooth, and that the plastic cages do not touch anything when spinning. Here are links to the FSM procedures you will need:

Step 1:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/Index/MiscFiles/83-140.pdf

Step 2:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD2/Program/Chassis/82-0680.pdf

Step 3:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Climate/83-556.pdf


:choochoo:
 
I just did it this past weekend on my '94. I'm not very mechanically inclined but got the job done in about three hours or so without any missing or left over pieces :D (the po replaced the pollen filter 4 years ago an broke one of the plastic fence thingies, there was epoxy which came apart booo) - I also took time to clean dust and debris from crevices. Just take your time and watch out for those little brass clips that hold some plastic and rubber molding together they are killer sharp. The wires holding the motor were pretty tight and the clip holding the motor in took quite a but of force to snap in... It takes sort of a horizontal push to snap in place.
 
Thanks, Jano.

With the FSM links that Dave posted and suggestions I will try it when I return from Brussels in two weeks.

Regards,

Orazio
 
Here is an excellent tutorial for replacing the blower motor (and regulator, if needed) on the W124. This doesn't cover the cabin filters on the 1994/1995 models, but that should be self-explanatory. The disassembly process is the same. I just did this same job on my wife's 1995 E320 wagon and it is identical to the E500E.

http://www.davebarnhart.com/mb300e/Blower/Blower1.htm

Cheers,
Gerry
 
So on '94s...if the blower motor is replaced, the cabin filter should also be done at the same time? Also, does replacing the blower present a good opportunity to also replace the evaporator, vacuum pods, and vacuum elbow connectors???
 
Greg,

The cabin airfilter is a yearly replacement task. I'd get one and replace it just due to time in R&R.

As for the other components you have listed, they are on the inside of the car. The fan is removed in replacement of the evaporator, but the reverse is not true. Vacuum pods are under the dash inside the car - inside the evaporator heater box. Not doable from the fan side.

The only extra thing you can service would be cleaning and greasing the wiper motor transmission.

Michael
 
The cabin filters can absolutely be replaced independently of the blower motor. I don't know about a YEARLY basis, I'd say every 2-3 years would be fine. I've done mine twice in the 9 years and ~55K miles I've put on my E500. However, if your cabin filters are more than 1-2 years old and you are replacing the blower motor (and/or regulator ["porcupine"]), then I'd also at the same time replace the filters. Otherwise, if they're not hugely dirty, they should be OK.

The evaporator and pods are accessed from INSIDE the car, by removing the dashboard and disassembling things inside the car.

The blower motor and cabin filters are accessed from the engine bay, after removing the windshield wiper assembly and various rubber and plastic bits of the lower windshield moulding and drain channels.

Does that make sense?

Cheers,
Gerry
 
The blower motor and cabin filters are accessed from the engine bay, after removing the windshield wiper assembly and various rubber and plastic bits of the lower windshield moulding and drain channels.

Yes, and a bit of PITA! Think you did a nice write up on this Gerry, no?
 
Gents, for the past 2 days my AC blower has been running at reduced speed. On the "high" position it blows with about half the volume as it usually did. The already weak "low" setting is even lower. Does this sound like a regulator issue?
 
Gents, for the past 2 days my AC blower has been running at reduced speed. On the "high" position it blows with about half the volume as it usually did. The already weak "low" setting is even lower. Does this sound like a regulator issue?
It could be the regulator or the pushbutton control unit. Less likely to be the motor itself. A bit difficult to troubleshoot unless you're handy with a voltmeter to measure the control voltage signal to the regulator...

:detective:
 
It could be the regulator or the pushbutton control unit. Less likely to be the motor itself. A bit difficult to troubleshoot unless you're handy with a voltmeter to measure the control voltage signal to the regulator.

I figured the motor is fine because, well, it spins. If it was the CCU then wouldn't only the "auto" fan setting be faulty? I thought the "high" fan setting would override everything and always provide full power. I am fairly handy with a multimeter, is there a doc laying around with the proper values I could use to check my system?
 
Gents, for the past 2 days my AC blower has been running at reduced speed. On the "high" position it blows with about half the volume as it usually did. The already weak "low" setting is even lower. Does this sound like a regulator issue?

This is what mine did when the regulator started going out. It hardly blew in low. In auto and high, it was pretty much half speed. For about $100, you might consider replacing the motor while you're in there. You can get a Bosch without the connectors and swap them over to the new motor. I can attest that it doesn't take much soldering skill to do it.
 
This is what mine did when the regulator started going out. It hardly blew in low. In auto and high, it was pretty much half speed. For about $100, you might consider replacing the motor while you're in there. You can get a Bosch without the connectors and swap them over to the new motor. I can attest that it doesn't take much soldering skill to do it.

That's what I was thinking Jon. From what I've recently read, all symptoms point to a faulty regulator. I also agree it's another "while your at it, you might as well" kind of jobs. Along with the motor, and maybe even the cage, I'm going to clean and refresh the general area including seals and other rubber bits if needed.
 
Best advice is to do the regulator and motor/cage assembly at the same time. That way you don't have to go back in there again for a very long time. It's incremental labor to do the regulator once you've got it torn down to do the motor (and the motor has to come out to do the regulator). Just spend the extra money and do both at the same time. Be sure to get the right motor/regulator parts for your year of car.

It's a very DIY-able job. Take EXTREME caution not to lose the little aluminum clips that hold the two halves of the blower motor housing together.

If you are doing this job and have a '94, it's also the PERFECT time to change out the dust filters.

Cheers,
Gerry
 
The regulator is located underneath the blower motor. You access it from the outside, under the bottom of the windshield. It doesn't appear that there is enough room in there to fit all that stuff, but when you start removing the plastic trim at the firewall and the windshield wiper assembly, you will see that the hole is much larger than it first appears.
 
Make sure that the blower strip fuse is good. Sometimes they develop a hairline crack that is difficult to see. Remove it or run a continuity check.
 

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