OWNER doolar

doolar · Aug 17, 2017

JC220 said:
 Looks great – glad to see at least one person found the Magnet Re-seal DIY useful What sealant did you use inside them?

All very nice work indeed Sir! It looks like your cam covers are bare metal though - or is this an optical illusion?

Yes thanks again, followed your DIY and it was spot on. I used a Würth RTV called "Super RTV Plus". It can withstand 260 degrees Celsius continuesly, and up to 300 degrees Celsius for shorter durations.

Yes the cam covers are bare metal, that's why they are so hard to keep clean. Everything sticks to them like crazy. The covers on my dads 500E are painted, a quick wipe and they look good.

doolar · Aug 17, 2017

Ok, round 2.

Started the evening with replacing the vacuum hoses for the right front side of the engine. Removed the "harness" to replace the hoses, I'm reusing the insulation since there's nothing wrong with it. I just cleaned it off, then removed the hoses, cut new lengths and color coded them with a marker pen.

Before:

After:

Installed in the car:

Next thing, route the plug wires, that's always so fun. But today I made a discovery. The guide plastic slots are numbered, and even tells you in which order to route the cables. So on this end on the left side, there's numbers 8 to 5:

And here on the left side you can see (poor picture, but it's there) that in the upper channel goes from the bottom Z (coil wire) 5 and 3, in the lower channel goes 8 and 2. These little markings are on every channel and crossing. I followed it and it worked perfect!

Here's the result, pretty neat. It took maybe 15 minutes.

Next, injectors and fuel rail.

So after some fiddling I got them all properly seated and the fuel rail on. Began attaching some of the electricals and the harness. But now it's time for sleep, so this is where I ended tonight:

Tomorrow I'll finish it! Just some minor refitting to be completed, then an oil and filter exchange, and new coolant! Happy days!

gerryvz · Aug 17, 2017

Good work, Dollar !! :spend:

doolar · Aug 18, 2017

Job completed today!

Here it is, done and dusted! The filter box look so gray and matte, but it's just the camera and my headlamp.

Unfortunately it's developed a nasty misfire/stutter/stumble. Almost like it won't fire on all cylinders. So I started out with the obvious;

Checked rotors, insulators and caps, even swapped with a known good set of rotors and caps
Checked that I plugged all spark plug wires correct, and that they where seated properly, measured nr. 6 and 7 since the plugs on them where a bit wet
Checked that I connected all vacuum tubes (correct)
Removed all spark plugs, nr. 6 and 7 where a bit wet, the others are fine. I'll replace all of them regardless
Checked that the injectors are seated properly

To-dos for the following days:

Read codes, reset them and reset adaptation
Install new spark plugs
Test MAF
Test coils
Swap to my spare EZL
Check the FPR for gasoline smell

Maybes:

Bite the bullet and get a new plug wire set, I still run the original ones. Don't think they're the problem here, but I wanna replace them anyway. Beru still the preferred sensible option?
Replace the FPR

The fun continues. :agree:

Any other ideas are most welcome! The coils are almost new, as is the CPS. Any other things I should troubleshoot? I'm NOT giving up this time, I am going to light up those Michelins in the very near future! :124fast:

gsxr · Aug 18, 2017

Thomas, if plugs 6+7 were not clean and dry, those cylinders are suspect. It would help if you could pinpoint the exact cylinders misfiring; if they are all from the same distributor cap that points you in the general direction. It isn't likely the old plug wires died while not in use, but yes, Beru is still a good/sensible option for replacements (likely much less than OE/dealer wires).

:detective:

doolar · Aug 18, 2017

gsxr said:
Thomas, if plugs 6+7 were not clean and dry, those cylinders are suspect. It would help if you could pinpoint the exact cylinders misfiring; if they are all from the same distributor cap that points you in the general direction. It isn't likely the old plug wires died while not in use, but yes, Beru is still a good/sensible option for replacements (likely much less than OE/dealer wires).

Thanks buddy, something like that I'm thinking too. Both 6 and 7 resides on the right distributor. Both wires measured around 2.2 kOhm so they should be ok. Maybe the spark plugs are borked? I'll get new ones on Monday anyways.

I inspected the insulator cap carefully, and while it is worn on the surface, I cant see any hairline cracks or any other damage. I also tested with a good known rotor and distributor cap, exactly the same.

I've wiped the 6 and 7 plugs clean, and have run the engine for five minutes, I'll re-check the plugs during the weekend to see if they're still dry, or wet again.

Stevester 500E · Aug 19, 2017

Did you make sure to connect the vacuum line that goes from the EZL to the back of the intake manifold area?
Is the misfire stronger, the same, or a bit weaker than before the intake manifold re-gasketing and hopefully that solves my issue.

A slight stumble was fixed with new caps and rotors.
It was more of an idle hunt, but it was do to bad spark.

What I am thinking is that maybe you have a fuel pressure issue either with the FPR or somewhere from the Fuel Pumps or related parts.

Stevester 500E · Aug 19, 2017

I never had issue with insulator micro cracks.
My car ran fine one with more than micro-cracks so long as the backs were dry.
Spray the backs of the insulators with some sort of sealer if you have micro-cracks if you are worried about them.
I would invest in new caps and rotors.

Taxi Driver · Aug 19, 2017

Thomas, You did Everything, I would suggest, change back to what was Before, i.e. when and if the motar was running well and good.

Are You sure about the "rebuilt injectors"? When I did the E60 LH change, the motor had been sitting at rest for several years, almost 10...
Everything in Place and renewed, ign. hooses etc. The damn thing would not start, double, trouble check, no start, at last I did change the
injector assy. from the 5liter, guess what? every injector had stuck alas no fuel.... I still have the old ones in Place, are you sure
they are not leaking where the problem occures?

It's often more than once, we have been "Barking up the wrong tree" like changing caps rotors plugs a few times
befor finding a not so obvious fault, the ign. isn't allways to blame....

gsxr · Aug 19, 2017

Taxi Driver said:
It's often more than once, we have been "Barking up the wrong tree" like changing caps rotors plugs a few times
befor finding a not so obvious fault, the ign. isn't allways to blame....

This is a good point. Injectors are a possible issue... unlikely, but possible. If you can pin down which cylinders are not firing (possibly by disconnecting one injector at a time at idle, and seeing which do not make the idle worse) you could try swapping the injectors from the bad/misfiring cylinders to a different location, and see if the problem moves or remains on the same cylinders. This is a LOT of work though.

If the car had been running fine with the existing caps/rotors before you started the project, I wouldn't spend $$$ on new ones just yet; besides you already tried a different set and it made no difference so I don't think that's the root cause of your current mystery.

:detective:

Taxi Driver · Aug 19, 2017

gsxr said:
This is a good point. Injectors are a possible issue... unlikely, but possible. If you can pin down which cylinders are not firing (possibly by disconnecting one injector at a time at idle, and seeing which do not make the idle worse) you could try swapping the injectors from the bad/misfiring cylinders to a different location, and see if the problem moves or remains on the same cylinders. This is a LOT of work though.

If the car had been running fine with the existing caps/rotors before you started the project, I wouldn't spend $$$ on new ones just yet; besides you already tried a different set and it made no difference so I don't think that's the root cause of your current mystery.

If I remember it correctly, were the injectors not said to be reconditioned? By who and how did they perform that operation? If one or two do not
Close fully, this would be the result, put back the old ones as the first measure...

gsxr · Aug 19, 2017

Taxi Driver said:
If I remember it correctly, were the injectors not said to be reconditioned? By who and how did they perform that operation? If one or two do not
Close fully, this would be the result, put back the old ones as the first measure...

From post #124:

So today I stripped my injectors of all o-rings, filters and pintle caps. They've recently been cleaned professionally, so I'm just replacing the o-rings, filters and pintle caps. Also I've cleaned them on the outside to remove all the dirt there, sprayed them with electronic cleaner afterwards. Ordered a set of above mentioned parts for the injectors, I'll rebuild them as soon as they arrive.

It wasn't clear if the injectors were professionally cleaned and then put back into the car for a while before the teardown, or if the injectors have not been used since the cleaning.

:?:

doolar · Aug 19, 2017

Stevester 500E said:
Did you make sure to connect the vacuum line that goes from the EZL to the back of the intake manifold area?
Is the misfire stronger, the same, or a bit weaker than before the intake manifold re-gasketing and hopefully that solves my issue.

A slight stumble was fixed with new caps and rotors.
It was more of an idle hunt, but it was do to bad spark.

What I am thinking is that maybe you have a fuel pressure issue either with the FPR or somewhere from the Fuel Pumps or related parts.

Yes the vacuum line is connected from EZL to intake manifold, I even triple checked it yesterday.

Stevester 500E said:
I never had issue with insulator micro cracks.
My car ran fine one with more than micro-cracks so long as the backs were dry.
Spray the backs of the insulators with some sort of sealer if you have micro-cracks if you are worried about them.
I would invest in new caps and rotors.

I have tried with another set of caps and rotors that I know are good. No difference at all.

Taxi Driver said:
Thomas, You did Everything, I would suggest, change back to what was Before, i.e. when and if the motar was running well and good.

Are You sure about the "rebuilt injectors"? When I did the E60 LH change, the motor had been sitting at rest for several years, almost 10...
Everything in Place and renewed, ign. hooses etc. The damn thing would not start, double, trouble check, no start, at last I did change the
injector assy. from the 5liter, guess what? every injector had stuck alas no fuel.... I still have the old ones in Place, are you sure
they are not leaking where the problem occures?

It's often more than once, we have been "Barking up the wrong tree" like changing caps rotors plugs a few times
befor finding a not so obvious fault, the ign. isn't allways to blame....

I agree Roger, I don't think it's the rotors/caps either, but I tend to always check them when such problems as this arises. Just to be sure...

gsxr said:
This is a good point. Injectors are a possible issue... unlikely, but possible. If you can pin down which cylinders are not firing (possibly by disconnecting one injector at a time at idle, and seeing which do not make the idle worse) you could try swapping the injectors from the bad/misfiring cylinders to a different location, and see if the problem moves or remains on the same cylinders. This is a LOT of work though.

If the car had been running fine with the existing caps/rotors before you started the project, I wouldn't spend $$$ on new ones just yet; besides you already tried a different set and it made no difference so I don't think that's the root cause of your current mystery.

Taxi Driver said:
If I remember it correctly, were the injectors not said to be reconditioned? By who and how did they perform that operation? If one or two do not
Close fully, this would be the result, put back the old ones as the first measure...

gsxr said:
From post #124:

It wasn't clear if the injectors were professionally cleaned and then put back into the car for a while before the teardown, or if the injectors have not been used since the cleaning.

:?:

Here's the deal with my injectors. I have two sets. First set is the original set that sat on the car, that I removed for the set I have now. There is nothing wrong with them more than that they are very dirty and have small rust spots on them.
Then the second set, which I got professionally refurbished (tested, cleaned, and refitted with new filters, pintle caps, rings and o-rings. I fitted them to the car a few years back.

Now when I started this job, I thought I might as well replace the filters, o-rings, rings and pintle caps again, since I have them out of the engine bay anyway. So that's whats been done to them. They have not been professionally cleaned again, just washed lightly outside and then filters/rings etc replaced with new.

Maybe I should just use the old original ones? They will need new o-rings and filters though, apart from that they are just stored in my garage, I only cleaned them off externally and removed the old o-rings etc.

Taxi Driver · Aug 19, 2017

Maybe I should just use the old original ones? They will need new o-rings and filters though, apart from that they are just stored in my garage, I only cleaned them off externally and removed the old o-rings etc."

Thats a good idea, you never know if you have not see them, spray and checked for pressure, what else could "wet" the plugs
if not G forbid, something worse have happened,. If it does not fire thouse two cylinders you must have noticed?

An air leak should have shown the opposite and an oil leak I do not belive in, so give the injectors a good look.

doolar · Aug 19, 2017

Taxi Driver said:
Maybe I should just use the old original ones? They will need new o-rings and filters though, apart from that they are just stored in my garage, I only cleaned them off externally and removed the old o-rings etc."

Thats a good idea, you never know if you have not see them, spray and checked for pressure, what else could "wet" the plugs
if not G forbid, something worse have happened,. If it does not fire thouse two cylinders you must have noticed?

An air leak should have shown the opposite and an oil leak I do not belive in, so give the injectors a good look.

Yes I'll sort the old ones out and fit them. Maybe the faulty injectors (if they turn out to be...) are a contributing factor to why my car wont pass emissions, if they leak fuel that would explain it. I have over the last few years have had problems with rough running sometimes (but not as this, where I clearly hear that the engine is not firing on one or two cylinders), and almost always looked elsewhere for troubleshooting and replacing other parts, that usually solved the problem for a while. But the car has not passed emissions since 2013 due to high HC levels.

lowman · Aug 19, 2017

doolar said:
Reassembling the intake manifold and plenum, with ETA and MAF:

View attachment 66509

i would definetly turn around those big hose clamps on the MAF sensor..the other way around..so you can unscrew them...if needed.. WHEN back in the car..

But other than that...awesome "build".It left me with a sense that i NEED to do the same ...and to be honest..ive been wanting to do this to my car,,for aloooooong time.so thank you

doolar · Aug 19, 2017

lowman said:
i would definetly turn around those big hose clamps on the MAF sensor..the other way around..so you can unscrew them...if needed.. WHEN back in the car..

Too late

JC220 · Aug 19, 2017

doolar said:
Yes I'll sort the old ones out and fit them. Maybe the faulty injectors (if they turn out to be...) are a contributing factor to why my car wont pass emissions, if they leak fuel that would explain it. I have over the last few years have had problems with rough running sometimes (but not as this, where I clearly hear that the engine is not firing on one or two cylinders), and almost always looked elsewhere for troubleshooting and replacing other parts, that usually solved the problem for a while. But the car has not passed emissions since 2013 due to high HC levels.

You talk about the caps & rotors but what about the insulating / suppressor plates behind the rotor arm!? Those are a primary potential cause for misfiring. Maybe I missed where you mentioned those - just checking

doolar · Aug 19, 2017

JC220 said:
You talk about the caps & rotors but what about the insulating / suppressor plates behind the rotor arm!? Those are a primary potential cause for misfiring. Maybe I missed where you mentioned those - just checking

I've looked at them, and they seem ok. Not replaced them though, and they are the original ones. There's a picture further up in this thread. I appreciate the thought buddy!

lowman · Aug 19, 2017

doolar said:
Too late

doolar · Aug 22, 2017

Went to the garage yesterday and tested the MAF just to rule it out. Removed the injectors from the car, I'm getting quite fast with this job nowadays.

So when I came home I ordered new o-rings etc for the old injectors. Now I'm waiting for delivery of the service kit for the injectors.

I will probably order a new FPR just for the sake of it, I couldn't detect any fuel smell from the vacuum hose. But they're not expensive and the one I have is probably the original one, so I guess it wont hurt. I've also ordered new spark plugs.

doolar · Sep 8, 2017

doolar said:
Too late

I inspected my hose clamps the other day, I don't see how there should be any trouble removing them as they are now when everything is in place? There's about the same room this way as the other. Of course if I would try to get down there with a hose clamp screwdriver it would be tight, but I have more precise tools at hand.

Or am I missing something here?

Heksi · Sep 12, 2017

I was browsing through this thread for the first time and looked at the tow hitch installation. I noticed the control light you put besides the light switch. I have the same kind of Oris tow hitch on my 300E-24, it has some afterwards installed light on the exact same position, but I have never seen it lit. Even though I've been using the tow hitch couple of times and all the electrics seem to work. So I am just wondering what's the purpose of the control light?

doolar · Sep 12, 2017

Heksi said:
I was browsing through this thread for the first time and looked at the tow hitch installation. I noticed the control light you put besides the light switch. I have the same kind of Oris tow hitch on my 300E-24, it has some afterwards installed light on the exact same position, but I have never seen it lit. Even though I've been using the tow hitch couple of times and all the electrics seem to work. So I am just wondering what's the purpose of the control light?

I used an aftermarket harness from Jaeger for the tow hitch, rather than the original. Also I opted for a 13 pin power outlet instead of the factory/old 7 pin. I later changed the placement of the control light to a free spot in the instrument cluster.

To answer your question, I don't remember if the light lights as an "everythings ok alarm" or that it blinks with the indicators. I haven't used it yet...

If you have the original harness to the tow hitch, there was never any such light from Mercedes. So it can be for a number of things (alarm, immobilizer, tow hitch etc not fitted by Mercedes).

Heksi · Sep 12, 2017

Alright, since there is no immobilizer or alarm, the light in my car might be part of the old telephone installations, who knows.

lowman · Sep 12, 2017

doolar said:
I inspected my hose clamps the other day, I don't see how there should be any trouble removing them as they are now when everything is in place? There's about the same room this way as the other. Of course if I would try to get down there with a hose clamp screwdriver it would be tight, but I have more precise tools at hand. Or am I missing something here?

to be honest mate..i have not done this " job" myself..or..i havent tried to take out the MAF sensor..but it was just on the top of my head..that the clamps were "supposed" to be fastened the other way around...to actually GET to them..but yes..tight space indeed.
it just didnt seem to be possible to loosen them the way you showed in the pictures.But i may be wrong of course.
But AAANYWAYS.. i love the work

doolar · Sep 13, 2017

I didn't know this was available still, but it was. I forgot to order the harness for the Hella power plug, so I put in an order for that today.

p/n A 124 846 00 69 Ablagefach/Pidgeonhole. Price $36
p/n A 202 820 00 51 Steckdose/Harness. Price $20

I haven't decided if I really want this in my car, it's not that great looking. Plus I'm still maybe putting oil and trans temp gauges where the ashtray goes. But I'll fit it and see how it looks and if I like it. More storage space is always good!

a777fan · Sep 13, 2017

First off. Awesome awesome thread. I love the color! I also appreciate how stealth you made your hitch install. There is nothing sadder to me than to see a passenger car tootling down the road with an unused hitch sticking out the back end. Mostly because they are usually after market add-ons that are installed with a hack job into the rear frame. Not you sir! You did it proper! Great Job!

Question(s): What spring pads did you end up using with your sportline spring install? The original standard suspension ones (13mm IIRC) or the sportline ones (8mm?). Also... your monoblocks... what were the specs for those (Diameter & ET)? Did you have any issues with them rubbing with your sportline set-up installed?

Is your new toy the ashtray replacement with power port? I just saw a video with one of those installed last night. I wasn't a fan, but you're right, you can never have too many bins!

TIA

:agree:

doolar · Sep 13, 2017

a777fan said:
First off. Awesome awesome thread. I love the color! I also appreciate how stealth you made your hitch install. There is nothing sadder to me than to see a passenger car tootling down the road with an unused hitch sticking out the back end. Mostly because they are usually after market add-ons that are installed with a hack job into the rear frame. Not you sir! You did it proper! Great Job!

Question(s): What spring pads did you end up using with your sportline spring install? The original standard suspension ones (13mm IIRC) or the sportline ones (8mm?). Also... your monoblocks... what were the specs for those (Diameter & ET)? Did you have any issues with them rubbing with your sportline set-up installed?

Is your new toy the ashtray replacement with power port? I just saw a video with one of those installed last night. I wasn't a fan, but you're right, you can never have too many bins!

TIA

Thanks for the appreciation! The Mercedes/Oris factory hitch install on the facelift cars are really well hidden, and a nice piece of engineering. That's the reason I wanted it, I rarely tow anything.

Silly, but I'm a sucker for these thought thru Mercedes options of the era, useful to me or not.

I ended up using the thinnest pads, and even with them the car is high above ground. But my car stands like they do in all the original sales brochures in my collection, they are (where) set high. It's come down quite a bit now after the springs settled in. No issues with rubbing. I've widened the front fenders with the AMG plastic puck things, but I don't think it's needed with the correct wheels and offset. The Sportline springs are not short and they don't slam the car to the ground exactly.

The monoblocks where unfortunately stolen, and I had the unicorn one's (W124 stamped in 17" 7,5" wide with ET42), they are really rare, and was bought with the car from the dealer. I'm watching out for used ones all the time, ready to pull the trigger when they emerge.

The wheels I have on now are a W203 rim, it's a staggered set, 7,5" wide front and 8,5" wide rear. ET up front is 37 and rear 34, all in 17". No rubbing, although the rears protrude just a tiny bit to much for my liking. Once I find the monoblocks I so much desire, I'll sell this set. It will look great on any 124 with stretched tires in the rear.

Yea it's the ashtray replacement thingy. I'll test it out and see how I like it, I'm not so sure about how I'll like the black hole between all the wood. And it's really shallow, not made to fit a modern smartphone. A pack of smokes would ironically fit there perfectly. :agree:

a777fan · Sep 13, 2017

doolar said:
Thanks for the appreciation! The Mercedes/Oris factory hitch install on the facelift cars are really well hidden, and a nice piece of engineering. That's the reason I wanted it, I rarely tow anything. Silly, but I'm a sucker for these thought thru Mercedes options of the era, useful to me or not.

I ended up using the thinnest pads, and even with them the car is high above ground. But my car stands like they do in all the original sales brochures in my collection, they are (where) set high. It's come down quite a bit now after the springs settled in. No issues with rubbing. I've widened the front fenders with the AMG plastic puck things, but I don't think it's needed with the correct wheels and offset. The Sportline springs are not short and they don't slam the car to the ground exactly.

The monoblocks where unfortunately stolen, and I had the unicorn one's (W124 stamped in 17" 7,5" wide with ET42), they are really rare, and was bought with the car from the dealer. I'm watching out for used ones all the time, ready to pull the trigger when they emerge.

The wheels I have on now are a W203 rim, it's a staggered set, 7,5" wide front and 8,5" wide rear. ET up front is 37 and rear 34, all in 17". No rubbing, although the rears protrude just a tiny bit to much for my liking. Once I find the monoblocks I so much desire, I'll sell this set. It will look great on any 124 with stretched tires in the rear.

Yea it's the ashtray replacement thingy. I'll test it out and see how I like it, I'm not so sure about how I'll like the black hole between all the wood. And it's really shallow, not made to fit a modern smartphone. A pack of smokes would ironically fit there perfectly.

Thanks for confirming my suspicion that the W124 Monos are rare. I have yet to see a set of the 7.5 ET 42, and now I know why! Blast. I too want my ride on a set of them.

Funny about the pack of smokes. The video indicated that it was originally an option for the taxi version. That would make sense!

doolar · Oct 2, 2017

Ok, learned something new today regarding the injector seals. Apparently there's two o-ring sizes for our injectors, 14,5 mm and 15 mm. Most kits sold on Ebay doesn't list the o-ring size, and newer cars usually take the 15 mm diameter, hence I suspect that they only ship the 15 mm ones. That could explain why I thought they were too tight. I've emailed with a shop in the UK, mrinjectoruk.co.uk (link directly to the kit for the orange Bosch injectors) and he checked that my injectors with my engine are using the 14,5 mm ones.

I'll update once I have them in hand. Luckily, USPS lost my package with my order from the US, so I got a refund on those.

Taxi Driver · Oct 2, 2017

I guess that has to do with the fact, 97* intake has a nylon bushing where the injector is placed, the 98* intakes does not and the
injector is mounted in the machined hole directly, the nylon bushing delete, to simplyfie and reduce cost could be the answer.

This is also what could happen, you learn the hard way and not allways the cheapest, I did buy my o-rings from MB.....

doolar · Oct 2, 2017

I didn’t know tha Mercedes sold the o-rings tbh. But yea, lesson learned, again

doolar · Oct 5, 2017

The Hella-plug for my ashtray delete arrived a some time ago at the dealer, went to pick it up last week, here's some pictures of how it looks. I'll test fit it and see how I like the look.

Ntrepid · Oct 5, 2017

Looks like the part number is: A0008201351

Can you show a picture of the whole ashtray? Is this part specific to any geography?

Robert

doolar · Oct 5, 2017

Ntrepid said:
Looks like the part number is: A0008201351

Can you show a picture of the whole ashtray? Is this part specific to any geography?

Robert

On the third page of my thread there's a picture with p/n and current pricing (I bought the parts from Mercedes-Benz Sweden, they where sent from Das Vaterland).

doolar · Oct 10, 2017

Now then. The injectors are rebuilt with the new parts. I'll install them this weekend, fingers crossed that I'll see some good results! The pintle caps had a much better fit than the last ones.

doolar · Oct 13, 2017

Way better fit with these o-rings. Everything put back together and new plugs. Guess which E420 won’t start? Cranks good and strong, but wont fire. Didn’t have time to troubleshoot today, I’ll report back later during the weekend. Who said anything should be easy?

Evo II · Oct 15, 2017

Nice thread ! Congrats !

doolar · Oct 16, 2017

Ok, some troubleshooting done. I really need your help guys, so I'll post a quick recap on what's changed since the car started the last time:
The engine ran a few weeks ago, but really badly (didn't fire on all, misfired, sounded dreadful). I realized I had used wrong size injector o-rings, so I swapped in new correct o-rings, on my original injectors that where fully working last time on the car. Now, when I try to start the car, the engine cranks strong, but will not fire up. I've checked the following:

* Spark is good
* Tested with another known good LH module, and EZL
* Tested with another FPR that ran fine some years ago, only been stored
* Battery is fully charged and good, terminals are clean and tight
* Fuel is being fed to the rail, but I have not yet checked pressure, I've just checked at the valve

Codes: The one's on Pin 7 worries me, but they can also be just ghosts since I've tried a different LH module during troubleshooting
(My car does NOT have ASR)
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Pin 4
DTC 4 Voltage at hot wire MAF sensor (B2/2) insufficient or too high, or open circuit in ground wire at hot wire MAF sensor
DTC 22 O2S 1 heater, open/short circuit

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Pin 6
DTC 2 Left front axle vehicle speed sensor (L6/1), open circuit

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Pin 7
DTC 6 Starter lock-out/backup lamp switch
DTC 7 Message from CC/ISC control module (N4/3) faulty Reception from LH-SFI control module (N3/1) faulty

Could it be the factory immobilizer that's causing the car not to start? I disconnected the fuel pumps relay, and could here no different sound from the pump area. But I do get fuel in the fuel rail, that shouldn't happen at all if the pumps weren't running, right?

NSS failure shouldn't allow me to crank the engine at all IIRC?

I'm a bit lost here, I'd highly appreciate some advice :hearts:

gsxr · Oct 16, 2017

The codes from pin 4 concern me, as they indicate a possible wiring issue at the MAF and/or O2 sensor. Try disconnecting the MAF and see if the car starts.

The code from pin 6 should be irrelevant (although if it keeps recurring after clearing, find out why).

The codes from pin 7, code #6 should not be an issue for starting, but code #7 is more of a concern. A digital scanner / SDS would tell you exactly which module is at fault, either LH or T/LLR.

I would also try squiring a small amount of starting fluid down the ETA and see if the engine fires. If so, that would confirm you are not getting fuel, or more specifically the LH isn't happy about something.

If you clear all of these codes, do the same ones come back after cranking and not starting?

:cel:

doolar · Oct 16, 2017

Thanks Dave, I'll give it a go tomorrow! Is the T/LLR different between ASR/non-ASR cars? If not, I have at least one spare.
It feels like I'm so close now, so I'm probably not

.

We've had some really nice fall weather, I'd love to take my car for a spin or 10 before the road salt-fest starts.

gsxr · Oct 16, 2017

doolar said:
Thanks Dave, I'll give it a go tomorrow! Is the T/LLR different between ASR/non-ASR cars? If not, I have at least one spare.
It feels like I'm so close now, so I'm probably not .

We've had some really nice fall weather, I'd love to take my car for a spin or 10 before the road salt-fest starts.

ASR cars have an E-GAS module.
Non-ASR cars have a a T/LLR module.

The two are not interchangeable, but if you have a spare T/LLR it should work fine for testing in your non-ASR car.

JC220 · Oct 16, 2017

Thomas- just one thing to consider and sorry if this sounds too obvious! Make sure all 4x modules are fully seated. This sometimes requires a rubber mallet in my 500E. It is easy to insert them not fully home which will cause the car to run very badly if not at all. This caught me out before! Also never rev a 500E engine using the engine bay throttle linkage. It will immediately go into limp mode. There are 2 sensors one inside the car at the throttle pedal and one on the throttle linkage. The ECU expects both sensors to open simultaneously.

Re- troubleshooting I would highly recommend getting your own fuel pressure test gauge. Mine was about £20 for a full kit. Any time I have a non start issue it’s the first thing I connect. Very useful to see if the fuel pumps are working correctly with minimum effort expended. I would also triple check all fuses at this stage. Twist them in their holder and make sure none or blown. If not already changed to new Copper ceramic items now would be an ideal time.

Good luck- I hope you get the issue resolved soon

doolar · Oct 16, 2017

I'll add your suggestions for my to-do list tomorrow Joe. Thank you!

doolar · Oct 17, 2017

Had a short stint in the garage today, and checked a few things.

Car starts on starting fluid.
Checked all codes (I deleted them all last time I checked them, I have tried starting the car several times since), only DTC 4 "Rear axle vehicle speed sensor (L6), open circuit" on PIN 6 re-appeared. All the other PINs came out with just one blink.
Disconnected the MAF, no difference.
Rotated all fuses, I'll order new ones just because, but they all look ok to me, I replaced most of them some years ago.
Checked the seating of all modules, they all seem to be well seated. I tapped them again with a rubber mallet, they're all in position.
Ohm-measured the injectors, they're all 14 ohms.

So I guess next step is to check the fuel pressure? It seems to me that this is the issue.

gsxr · Oct 17, 2017

Check fuel pressure next. If fuel pressure is normal, a very, very faint possibility is the rebuilt injectors are faulty... do you know if the rebuilder puts them on a test bench to measure flow rate / pattern / etc?

Otherwise, it's back to something weird with the LH module not being happy and enabling fuel delivery.

:detective:

doolar · Oct 17, 2017

gsxr said:
Check fuel pressure next. If fuel pressure is normal, a very, very faint possibility is the rebuilt injectors are faulty... do you know if the rebuilder puts them on a test bench to measure flow rate / pattern / etc?

Otherwise, it's back to something weird with the LH module not being happy and enabling fuel delivery.

These are not the rebuilt ones, they are the original injectors that came with the car. Last time they were used they ran perfectly. They’ve been stored in a Ziplock in my garage. But yea, the thought struck me.

Do you know what the ECU does if one of them is stuck? Will it cut fuel/power on all of them? Because I could imagine one or two of them going bad in storage, even though it seems unlikely. However all of them being faulty from storage seems almost impossible. And if one or more injectors wont open, wouldn’t it generate some DTC?

Anyway, I’ll hopefully find time tomorrow to check fuel pressure, and I’ll take it from there.

gsxr · Oct 17, 2017

All good questions - I think the probability of all injectors failing while in storage is minimal, especially if they were working fine and then put in a sealed bag (and, assuming the storage was not for many years).

The LH can only monitor electrical faults, i.e. if the injector (or wiring) is either open or shorted. It can not determine if the injector is actually firing correctly or not.

Hopefully it's just zero fuel pressure, as that would be much easier to fix!

:hiding:

Taxi Driver · Oct 17, 2017

This I have been through and posted, my problem was, in the end, stuck injectors, they had been sitting dry on the E60 for years.
The motor did almost run or attempted to, on ether gas, starting aid and fuel mist sprayed into the TBA fuel press. OK

A switch over to the 5liter injectors cured that problem BUT I missed the 2014 500E meet, or the 500E had to stay at home and I
Went with Cobra, in his 500ed. I really would check and see how the injectors work or not, Before ruling them out.

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