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Impossible to forget! I had the backseat to myself on our trip from Sweden to Italy and back. Remember sleeping in the backseat, eating from the little tables and lying on the parcel shelf looking at all the cars we overtook.
If I remember correctly my dad installed the 4.2 litre engine, and with the tractor manual gearbox it was quite fast back in 1978.
I can see where your Dad is coming from. It's funny how sometimes I can't tell if I enjoy driving these things or tinkering/fixing/breaking them more. Some of us are just nuts!
Yes this is true – a good friend and fellow car nut is convinced I am happier restoring a car with it perched on Jack stands for months on end rather than driving it. But that’s not entirely true. For me in order to enjoy driving it - first I need to make it my own! That’s my excuse anyway and I’m sticking to it.
Sometimes however it is easy to get sucked into ‘perfection’ mode which can be somewhat self defeating IMO. For sure there is a happy medium of restoring / improving a car and actually using / enjoying it too. Go too far with the restoration and suddenly you can't bear to drive it
Keep up the great work Doolar - I enjoy reading your thread
Drove about 50 km’s today, car ran fine. Checked codes when I came back, none at all.
I’m going to measure emissions myself before I do the test this time. I have a emissions tester at work that needs some TLC, it’s time to restore it now, so I don’t have to pay for a test each time I fixed something. Also left on my list is to replace the MAF.
I’m going to measure emissions myself before I do the test this time. I have a emissions tester at work that needs some TLC, it’s time to restore it now, so I don’t have to pay for a test each time I fixed something. Also left on my list is to replace the MAF.
Went to the office in the evening today to have a look at the emissions tester that I have condemned after a fire at a car workshop. It's pretty sooty, and there's some melted plastic that dripped onto it. So it was not in a good enough condition to restore and send back to the workshop, but I think it's good enough for me.
I tested if it works at all this evening, and it does. It needs a new O2 cartridge, but they're a service item anyway so I'll just get a new one. Ran the test programs on it, and it passed all but the O2 of course. So I tried it on my car (without the O2 sensor working, I wont get a O2/Lambda value reading) and the CO and HC are still too high, but corresponding to the measurements done at the MOT, so I can assume that the tester is not way off (it was calibrated in March, but with fire anything can happen).
Too bad that my emissions are not better, but kinda expected that. But I'm still happy, now I can get the measurements myself, this is a really great instrument to have in the shop.
I'll restore it next week at work, get a new O2 cartridge for it.
I really need to get that China C3 multiplexer and software soon, so I don't have to guesstimate everything.
I tested if it works at all this evening, and it does. It needs a new O2 cartridge, but they're a service item anyway so I'll just get a new one. Ran the test programs on it, and it passed all but the O2 of course. So I tried it on my car (without the O2 sensor working, I wont get a O2/Lambda value reading) and the CO and HC are still too high, but corresponding to the measurements done at the MOT, so I can assume that the tester is not way off (it was calibrated in March, but with fire anything can happen).
Too bad that my emissions are not better, but kinda expected that. But I'm still happy, now I can get the measurements myself, this is a really great instrument to have in the shop.
I'll restore it next week at work, get a new O2 cartridge for it.
I really need to get that China C3 multiplexer and software soon, so I don't have to guesstimate everything.
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Swapped the MAF today for a known good unit. Drove 50 km’s and read codes, none again. The car ran as before, no difference.
I’m in the final stages of restoring my emissions sniffer, hopefully I’ll get it done tomorrow, then I can check emissions again.
Also bought a T/LLR from Captruff, so it’s on its way over. Gonna replace that too, just to eliminate stuff. Worst case scenario I have a replacement module.
I’m in the final stages of restoring my emissions sniffer, hopefully I’ll get it done tomorrow, then I can check emissions again.
Also bought a T/LLR from Captruff, so it’s on its way over. Gonna replace that too, just to eliminate stuff. Worst case scenario I have a replacement module.
It was not just the NSS that caused my problems with the delayed upshifts when using the FGS switch. The B button was also part of the issue. The other day when I was out driving, the problem reappeared, to disappear again after a few shifts. Hmm...
So I considered that the B switch might be the problem too. The switch is not used very often on any car I presume, and I can only recall using it on a few occations. So I started with just giving it some exercise. Ignition on, so I could move the shifter down to the B position, then I engaged and disengaged the switch several times.
When I drove yesterday there was not a single time it didn’t work as intended. I’m not sure I solved it yet, but if the problem appear again, I’ll remove the switch and clean it. I have at least found the last problem with the delayed upshifts. It should not be worn out, but if it looks bad I’ll replace it.
So I considered that the B switch might be the problem too. The switch is not used very often on any car I presume, and I can only recall using it on a few occations. So I started with just giving it some exercise. Ignition on, so I could move the shifter down to the B position, then I engaged and disengaged the switch several times.
When I drove yesterday there was not a single time it didn’t work as intended. I’m not sure I solved it yet, but if the problem appear again, I’ll remove the switch and clean it. I have at least found the last problem with the delayed upshifts. It should not be worn out, but if it looks bad I’ll replace it.
IIRC, Klink implied that the automatic version of the transmission can and should be considered to mean "no clutch". Since we don't have paddle shifters, run through the gears manually a few times as you drive at temp.
(Note - If it wasn't Klink, forgive me but I thought I read that here on the forum somewhere)
(Note - If it wasn't Klink, forgive me but I thought I read that here on the forum somewhere)
Drove around 30 kms today, checked codes, none.
Is it possible that the gas response can be impacted by the condition/failed MAF? The cars throttle response seems much better now, but it might just be my imagination. But I think it is better/faster. Compared with before I swapped the MAF I thought there was a slight delay when throttling in N or P, it's more direct now.
I haven't finished my emissions tester yet, I have a man cold and have been home sick. I really want to measure the levels now.
Those of you who followed my thread know that I bought a Hella third brake light. I found another one, that's a bit more modern, smaller and with adjustable angle. So I've decided to fit that, I really like the clean look without any third brake light, but I like not having another car crash into me even more.
Here's some images of the light, and where I'm threading the cable. The light itself is mounted with 3M adhesive to the rear glass. The cable will be connected to the left rear brake light. No cable cutting, no drilling. The cable is threaded thru the parcel shelf and comes out where the luggage compartment light is. Then it will be guided inside the steel frame under the window and come out by the left rear wheel housing, to join the cable harness there. I'll follow up when I've finished it!
Oh and if someone's interested, I have one more of these NOS (ca 1996) in original packaging, that I'll happily sell on. They're both E-approved and DOT-approved.
Is it possible that the gas response can be impacted by the condition/failed MAF? The cars throttle response seems much better now, but it might just be my imagination. But I think it is better/faster. Compared with before I swapped the MAF I thought there was a slight delay when throttling in N or P, it's more direct now.
I haven't finished my emissions tester yet, I have a man cold and have been home sick. I really want to measure the levels now.
Those of you who followed my thread know that I bought a Hella third brake light. I found another one, that's a bit more modern, smaller and with adjustable angle. So I've decided to fit that, I really like the clean look without any third brake light, but I like not having another car crash into me even more.
Here's some images of the light, and where I'm threading the cable. The light itself is mounted with 3M adhesive to the rear glass. The cable will be connected to the left rear brake light. No cable cutting, no drilling. The cable is threaded thru the parcel shelf and comes out where the luggage compartment light is. Then it will be guided inside the steel frame under the window and come out by the left rear wheel housing, to join the cable harness there. I'll follow up when I've finished it!
Oh and if someone's interested, I have one more of these NOS (ca 1996) in original packaging, that I'll happily sell on. They're both E-approved and DOT-approved.
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i would definetly turn around those big hose clamps on the MAF sensor..the other way around..so you can unscrew them...if needed.. WHEN back in the car..
A follow up on this Stefan, I r&r the MAF the other day, it was no issue with the clamps the way I have them. It will work whichever way you have them.
Stand still again, moved to a new apartment last week and had a major shoulder surgery Tuesday to correct my upper control arm, sorry shoulder joint so it hopefully stops dislocating every now and then. Second attempt fixing this joint now, two new 24 mm screws and some cutting and stitching should do it.
I'll be in recovery for months, but hopefully I can get some one handed action done to the car in a few weeks time.
For now it's back to the painkillers and the bed!
I'll be in recovery for months, but hopefully I can get some one handed action done to the car in a few weeks time.
For now it's back to the painkillers and the bed!
I'm back! My shoulder and arm are slowly getting better and somewhat functional.
My exhaust sniffer is now fully restored and in working condition. I found the correct calibration tool for it used online, along with filters and a new O2 cartridge. Tested the car today, the values are as follows:
CO: 0.43 (limit 0.50)
CO rpm over 2000: 0.51 (limit 0.30)
HC: 180 (limit 100)
O2 sensor value: 1.01 (allowed range 0.97- 1.03)
So CO on rpm is too high, and the HC is too high.
I'm going to check for an exhaust leak again, and try with another O2-sensor. Any other suggestions? The car had new oil, filter, plugs and air filters very recently. The cars exhaust smells of unburnt fuel a bit, not much, but it is detectable. No smoke from exhaust, or if I accelerate hard and then release throttle. No error codes. The engine is smooth and runs really well, no misfires or stutters anywhere in the rpm range.
My exhaust sniffer is now fully restored and in working condition. I found the correct calibration tool for it used online, along with filters and a new O2 cartridge. Tested the car today, the values are as follows:
CO: 0.43 (limit 0.50)
CO rpm over 2000: 0.51 (limit 0.30)
HC: 180 (limit 100)
O2 sensor value: 1.01 (allowed range 0.97- 1.03)
So CO on rpm is too high, and the HC is too high.
I'm going to check for an exhaust leak again, and try with another O2-sensor. Any other suggestions? The car had new oil, filter, plugs and air filters very recently. The cars exhaust smells of unburnt fuel a bit, not much, but it is detectable. No smoke from exhaust, or if I accelerate hard and then release throttle. No error codes. The engine is smooth and runs really well, no misfires or stutters anywhere in the rpm range.
Did you test after heating the cats by cruising for ~5 minutes at ~4000rpm? If not - try that next.
On this occasion, no. I just drove around the block, so yea, that's also on my list. It's winter here in Sweden, and winter means a lot of salt on the roads, so I don't want to go out on the highway, exposing my car to it
As soon as we have dry roads I'll do that! But, I've tried that before (last year I drove 30 kilometers on the highway in third gear, I promise you everything was hot as hell
) without any big changes in testing. But of course, I had to wait some time to get the emissions test back then, now that I have my own sniffer I can test immediately after heating the cat and car.Thanks Dave!
Wow what a spring I've had. Work's been crazy plus other stuff. But now I think I'm finally on top of it and ready to proceed with my beloved W124.
So I did a detailing last week using Ultima products, very happy with the results I got. I used Ultima Paint Prep and then two layers of Ultima Paint Guard. The interior was wiped clean and then the front seats were treated to some coloring where the leather had minor cracks. After that the entire interior was treated with Ultima Interior Guard. It looks the part now!
Further on with the emissions, I'm now very close to passing, and I have found the last piece of the puzzle (I hope). It seems that my aftermarket stainless steel cat is not getting the heat it needs. I've measured temperatures and it's way too low. I could confirm this with exhaust wrapping the exhaust pipe and cat, immediately seeing lower emissions and higher temperatures, unfortunately not high enough to get the cat up to full operating temp.
I will now try to Italian tune it and see if I can squeeze down the last value the last wee bit, if not, I'll have to swap the cat for a 200 cell instead of the 100 cell I have on now.
But at least the car is road legal for a month now, so I'm enjoying it to the fullest-ish.
Some pictures enclosed after the detailing, I'll get some shots from the interior as well soon.
So I did a detailing last week using Ultima products, very happy with the results I got. I used Ultima Paint Prep and then two layers of Ultima Paint Guard. The interior was wiped clean and then the front seats were treated to some coloring where the leather had minor cracks. After that the entire interior was treated with Ultima Interior Guard. It looks the part now!
Further on with the emissions, I'm now very close to passing, and I have found the last piece of the puzzle (I hope). It seems that my aftermarket stainless steel cat is not getting the heat it needs. I've measured temperatures and it's way too low. I could confirm this with exhaust wrapping the exhaust pipe and cat, immediately seeing lower emissions and higher temperatures, unfortunately not high enough to get the cat up to full operating temp.
I will now try to Italian tune it and see if I can squeeze down the last value the last wee bit, if not, I'll have to swap the cat for a 200 cell instead of the 100 cell I have on now.
But at least the car is road legal for a month now, so I'm enjoying it to the fullest-ish.
Some pictures enclosed after the detailing, I'll get some shots from the interior as well soon.
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Yes I did, but it did not help enough. Measuring with my Fluke IR temp meter immediately after one of those runs, I had temp of circa 300 degrees F both directly before and after the cat, which tells me that the cat is not heated enough. The exhausts directly after the cat should be hotter than before it if the cat is doing its job. Also, 300 degrees are too low.
I only run one 100 cell race cat, stainless steel. I always suspected it was on the limit, but passed emissions once with it (barely, when the cat was brand new). So I suspect it's just not enough catalyst, and the 100 cell being very free flowing - it wont create enough resistance to heat up properly.
With my emissions tester I can see both O2 and Co2, in addition to Co and a calculated Lambda value. The O2 and Co2 is within spec, showing values that correspond with a good burn, so the issue is after the engine. That only leaves the aftermarket cat, or a leaky exhaust. I have triple checked the exhaust for any leaks, there are absolutely none.
So, all in all, I should just pony up and get a better suited cat. But I'd love not to, I like my 100 cell.
And it was expensive and is FIA approved, in stainless steel, so I still hope to be able to keep it.
I was just looking at the HC limits required by local testing... 100 max is quite strict. 
Are you using the stock LH module with stock EPROM chip? FWIW, I know of a 500E without cats that managed 106 HC at 2500rpm. Your measurement of 180 WITH cats (even 100 cell) still seems on the high side. Do they measure HC at idle, or at higher RPM?
Are you using the stock LH module with stock EPROM chip? FWIW, I know of a 500E without cats that managed 106 HC at 2500rpm. Your measurement of 180 WITH cats (even 100 cell) still seems on the high side. Do they measure HC at idle, or at higher RPM?
I was just looking at the HC limits required by local testing... 100 max is quite strict.
Are you using the stock LH module with stock EPROM chip? FWIW, I know of a 500E without cats that managed 106 HC at 2500rpm. Your measurement of 180 WITH cats (even 100 cell) still seems on the high side. Do they measure HC at idle, or at higher RPM?
The HC limit is 200 now, they’ve changed it. I get around 130-150 HC at idle now, even after about 30 seconds after a cold start = no heated cat = basically the same as a decat measurement.
The HC and CO is measured at idle, with a second CO and the O2/Lambda value at 2500 RPM in Sweden.
On my last emissions test at the test station (I’m not allowed to drive the car without a test, so can’t trobleshoot it, so had to get a test to continue testing...) I passed all but the CO at 2500, the limit is 0.3 and the car was at 0.5.
Any further suggestions are more than welcome, but it really points at the cat. When I had the stock cats the car had close to zero on HC and CO.
Edit; Yes, stock LH, stock EEPROM. I’ve read your experience with the WOT LH on the E420, if I swap my WOT LH in the emissions are about the same. But I’m running bone stock while troubleshooting.
Is the re-test Fee expensive Thomas? Here it’s less than £20..... at that rate I’d give an emissions reducing additive a shot along with a long drive at high RPM before committing to modifying your exhaust setup.
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Yes the fee is about the same. Now I do have my own emissions tester, the exact same model used at the test station. So for troubleshooting it’s a lot easier now. I have to do the re-test in less than a month though to be able to continue driving.
Do those additives really work? I’ve seen them at the petrol station, most of them seems to contain mainly E85, which is readily available for a 10th of the price at the pump.
I've heard that if you rig the air pump to run all the time, it should make it pass easily. However I've never done this personally and I don't know how it affects readings. The air pump doesn't normally run much at all with the engine at operating temp, but it's a fairly easy test that doesn't cost much besides some time to route some temporary wires. This also assumes your pump is functioning, the valves are good, and you could also apply vacuum to the valve to enable airflow. You could test this at home with a digital scanner (SDS, etc) by watching the O2 voltage readings; when the pump is running the O2 voltage should drop very low (~0.10 v) instead of cycling between 0.10 and 0.90 approximately, as it would when warmed up in closed-loop mode.
Your required CO limits are tough as well... where I live it's 1.20 and even catless it was less than 0.10 (at 2500rpm). Limits of 0.50 and 0.30, ouch!
Your required CO limits are tough as well... where I live it's 1.20 and even catless it was less than 0.10 (at 2500rpm). Limits of 0.50 and 0.30, ouch!
any progress to report.
Progress has been non existent, but now I'm ready to get rid of this emissions issue once and for all.
By the way - my dad's finished his 500E!! He just decided one day to finish it, took him all of two weeks and now the Nautic Blue with blue leather is back on the roads. Passed MOT with flying colors too after being stored for so many years. I'm gonna take it for a spin soon, maybe I'll do a short video and/or some photos!
By the way - my dad's finished his 500E!! He just decided one day to finish it, took him all of two weeks and now the Nautic Blue with blue leather is back on the roads. Passed MOT with flying colors too after being stored for so many years. I'm gonna take it for a spin soon, maybe I'll do a short video and/or some photos!
Mycket bra! Vill se den åter, 2020? Offcourse i.e Very Well. Hope to see IT in 2020, My Buddy, Cobra, here,
almost did buy the Blue on Blue just before buying th '95 he has been enjoying ever since, (can be said
Cobra was at the same time/day going for a look at the YELLOW '94 wich sadly disapeared to, Germany!!!
almost did buy the Blue on Blue just before buying th '95 he has been enjoying ever since, (can be said
Cobra was at the same time/day going for a look at the YELLOW '94 wich sadly disapeared to, Germany!!!
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Hi Thomas,
Sorry to raise this older info but I found it very useful. Can I just double check that all items in that kit no 28 did for your orange Bosch m119 injectors?
They told me its not the correct kit.....
Hi Joe - IIRC there are different hole sizes in the intake manifold that dictates what o-ring diameters you need, it doesn't really have to do with which version of the injectors you have. The no 28 kit I bought from MrInjector was spot on, it fitted just like it should. Maybe your car takes the 15 mm ones?
Thanks Thomas - see the screenshot below
This is the guy who runs / owns Mr Injector.
It was odd that he just said it's the wrong kit for my injectors.... I do believe your post.
I did email the address he gave to inquire again since I did buy the kit 28. They are closed until tomorrow apparently so I'll see what they say. They should pick up my query to confirm correct fitment before they dispatch it.
That's the same guy I talked to I believe. Hope they do the right thing and give you a proper answer before shipping out. I bet you need the no 28 kit for your 1995 M119 though.
Thanks again Thomas and FWIW - this is what MasterInjector came back with - in behalf of Mr Injector
Long time no see! I sold my E420 late last year, kept it almost a decade. It had to go, I actually lost my interest a bit with this particular car and felt I had to pass it on since it just sat for 360 days of the year. These cars need to be used and driven, or they just turn into an endless money pit. It sold to a great new owner who is local to me and has a nice collection.
My father owns a 1993 Nautic Blue with blue interior 500E that I have mentioned in this thread several times. Sadly my dad passed away very recently at the age of 74. He did put the 500 together and used it quite a lot which was great for me and him to share and enjoy.
Unfortunately someone else liked the car too and he had a garage break in (again) where they stole the Evo2 wheels and just put the car on the ground. They also tried ripping off the front spoiler and front fenders, but fortunately they didn’t succeed.
Obviously we were both appalled and heart broken, and it really did my dad in, he basically went into a depression. The car was of course fully insured and has been repaired, and new Evo2’s (painted) was ordered and paid for via the insurance. My dad passed before we could get the car back together.
I will most likely start a new Owner’s thread on the 500E.
Thanks for reading, and Merry Christmas to the board members!
My father owns a 1993 Nautic Blue with blue interior 500E that I have mentioned in this thread several times. Sadly my dad passed away very recently at the age of 74. He did put the 500 together and used it quite a lot which was great for me and him to share and enjoy.
Unfortunately someone else liked the car too and he had a garage break in (again) where they stole the Evo2 wheels and just put the car on the ground. They also tried ripping off the front spoiler and front fenders, but fortunately they didn’t succeed.
Obviously we were both appalled and heart broken, and it really did my dad in, he basically went into a depression. The car was of course fully insured and has been repaired, and new Evo2’s (painted) was ordered and paid for via the insurance. My dad passed before we could get the car back together.
I will most likely start a new Owner’s thread on the 500E.
Thanks for reading, and Merry Christmas to the board members!
Thank you @TerryA for the kind words, and to all who reacted on my post.
Yea I started out in the workshop with my dad when I was three, handing him tools back in -78. These are my earliest memories, and good ones. Fortunately we get to keep the memories with our lost loved ones.
You’re all so very kind, thank you, it’s heartwarming. Petrolheads are the best!
Merry Christmas to all of you!
My dads 500 is back with me, and it needs… a lot of love.
It’s definitely seen better days, but it runs and drives albeit with a horrible sound coming from some auxiliary, likely the AC pump. It also shifts late and with some hesitation, but that could just be a service needed. It goes into reverse quickly. It’s way too low, I don’t know if my father lowered it even more. It needs to be sorted though.
I’ll have to see over the coming weeks how much effort I’m putting in right now. The Evo2’s will be going on really soon, these 16” wheels are what we had in the garage to fit on the car after the wheels were stolen.
The car’s been repaired after the attempt to steal the front bumper etc, but they’ve not matched the paint properly, so it’s not pretty up close.
It’s definitely seen better days, but it runs and drives albeit with a horrible sound coming from some auxiliary, likely the AC pump. It also shifts late and with some hesitation, but that could just be a service needed. It goes into reverse quickly. It’s way too low, I don’t know if my father lowered it even more. It needs to be sorted though.
I’ll have to see over the coming weeks how much effort I’m putting in right now. The Evo2’s will be going on really soon, these 16” wheels are what we had in the garage to fit on the car after the wheels were stolen.
The car’s been repaired after the attempt to steal the front bumper etc, but they’ve not matched the paint properly, so it’s not pretty up close.
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I had forgotten, but this car does already have an ASR defeat switch. It came with it when we bought the car in 2008. I’ll have to check if it still works.More of a reason to install/utilize an ASR off switch
@doolar,
With all that moisture on it, you must have just brought it in from the cold. The temps in Sweden right now must be brutal. It doesn’t look that bad and at least it’s all there.
As you age enthusiasm for working on hobbies dwindles a little. Your dad probably felt like me sometimes and let things slide a little. You are now the caretaker for this beautiful beast. With a little spit and polish you will have her up to snuff in no time.
BTW, is that your garage? It looks like a great workshop
Take Care
With all that moisture on it, you must have just brought it in from the cold. The temps in Sweden right now must be brutal. It doesn’t look that bad and at least it’s all there.
As you age enthusiasm for working on hobbies dwindles a little. Your dad probably felt like me sometimes and let things slide a little. You are now the caretaker for this beautiful beast. With a little spit and polish you will have her up to snuff in no time.
BTW, is that your garage? It looks like a great workshop
Take Care
So here's the story on why the car is in this condition:@doolar,
With all that moisture on it, you must have just brought it in from the cold. The temps in Sweden right now must be brutal. It doesn’t look that bad and at least it’s all there.
As you age enthusiasm for working on hobbies dwindles a little. Your dad probably felt like me sometimes and let things slide a little. You are now the caretaker for this beautiful beast. With a little spit and polish you will have her up to snuff in no time.
BTW, is that your garage? It looks like a great workshop
Take Care
It all started with the garage break in, where the thief's jacked the car up to remove the Evo2's, dropping down the car on the ground. Yea I know it hurts to just read and write, I was freakin furious when I came over to my dads to help him get the car on wheels again. They also tried to rip off the front bumper with the help of a crowbar, denting the front fenders. They also stole the gear lever. Cracked the rear window to get into the car. They opened the hood to rip out the wires to the factory alarm. They scratched the paint several places too.
The car was of course fully insured, but it's always difficult with older cars as anybody here knows. New wheels were a minor issue since the Evo2's are available to order again. A new shift knob was also ordered and installed, and the car was transported to the body shop that the insurance company advised. The body shop is a reputable one, and I wrote about the paint differences yesterday, but on closer inspection and consideration I think they did the correct thing not matching the paint to the faded bonnet colour. I will probably be able to bring the colour up on the bonnet close enough, and if I have to repaint it, I'd rather not want to paint it dull just to match. Front fenders, roof line and doors both sides were painted.
When the car arrived home, my dad thought the gearbox sounded strange and shifted late, and due to age and oncoming Alzheimers he quickly and most likely wrongly diagnosed it to a broken gearbox. I tried to stop him, but he sent the car 1700 kilometers north to a workshop that are specialised in these gearboxes. I actually had talked him out of it so I could do an assessment to, but unfortunately he forgot.
The car do have a strange noise, but it varies with the rpm's when stationary, so it's an auxilliary, not the gearbox. It sounds like a bad bearing. The gearbox do shift late sometimes, but its probably vacuum, lack of service, modulator or low level on fluid, not a broken box. At least it's not the first approach to rip the gearbox out until all other things are checked.
So I got the car home yesterday, it spent 1700 kilometers back down to me on an open trailer, hence the very dirty appearance. It's also been stored outside for months in the Arctic conditions, they've seen -40 C/F up there... Luckily the car had proper antifreeze.
Here where I live in the south of Sweden its not to bad, we barely get any winter to talk about, we have 44 degrees F right now. My company's HQ is in Chicago and they have more winter than we have. But Sweden is a long country with parts above the polar circle.
@TerryA You're correct in that my dads interest dwindled a bit, and he didn't have as much energy and drive, so he used the 500 as his car, keeping it mechanically ok, but not minding the exterior condition that much. A few things started slipping on the mechanical side too.
And no, it is not my workshop, but it's my workplace, and I'm very lucky to be able to use it any time I want. We have almost everything one can want, with maybe a car lift being the exception.
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