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OWNER Winmutt (E420)

I was only planning on gutting the cats but keeping the rest of the system in tact.

As instructed, I unhooked the easy to get to crossover pipe on the driver's side and took it for a spin.
It was definitely giving all she had! If it's plugged cats or not the drivers side pipe is collapsed from hitting something right before it goes into the cats. My state won't smog 25 or older cars so... what should I do next. I have faith in what's behind the cats and MB engineering. Open to suggestions, but I think some test pipes are in order to replace the damaged pipes and cats.

In other news, I started applying leather conditioner to the seats, and while the drivers side is worse for wear, the rest of it is like new. What can I do to bring them back to the supple texture I think they once were?
 
Also b8s on the way, I would have preferred b6's but this money pit taking in a lot of revenues and b6s are $$$$. I have a pair of spare b6 fronts I hadnt mounted to my diesel project and could be talked into mounting those if y'all think the difference is substantial. For now, I am opting to cut 1/2 to 1 coil off front and rear to get a little lower. Not looking for anything to crazy but the fronts are completely blown and the car, imo, is unsafe to drive now that it has the full beans.
 
For now, I am opting to cut 1/2 to 1 coil off front and rear to get a little lower. Not looking for anything to crazy ...
whoa... step back from the cutoff wheel. Cut 1/4 coil at a time at most. You may end up at 1/2 coil total depending how slammed you want it, but beyond that it will just be sitting on the stop buffers, which is not what you want for a street-driven car. You cannot uncut springs.

Photos at the link below are of my E420 with stock rear springs and fronts cut 1/4 coil, on 1-pt (thinnest) pads.

:sawzall:


1652710427091-png.147140
 
whoa... step back from the cutoff wheel. Cut 1/4 coil at a time at most. You may end up at 1/2 coil total depending how slammed you want it, but beyond that it will just be sitting on the stop buffers, which is not what you want for a street-driven car. You cannot uncut springs.

Photos at the link below are of my E420 with stock rear springs and fronts cut 1/4 coil, on 1-pt (thinnest) pads.

:sawzall:


1652710427091-png.147140
Thanks for your guidance as always.
 
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Scored this sweet set of mats for $25 on FB. Pulled up to the guys house and was totally floored. He had about 30 high-end imports including a veyron and about a dozen lambo/Ferrari. 500e of course, a pristine amg 560sec, gwagens, variety of 90s m3/m5s. Just an amazing experience, the price of admission was well worth it.
 
Turns out he cut this from 500e and is selling it for $25 as well, I think this will solve some of my other problems as well.
Hard to pass up for $25 but that item has nothing to do with a 500E. No idea what newer AMG it's from, but it's somewhere in the 2000's. Plan on custom welding & piping to make that work.
 
Which size shims are you currently using? Be certain to reclock the shim in the perch so that the upper spring end sits in it's proper spot when you are satisfied.

I have all the various shims here at the house should you need something else to finish.
 
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Which size shims are you currently using? Be certain to reclock the shim in the perch so that the upper spring end sits in its proper spot when you are satisfied.

I have all the various shims here at the house should you need something else to finish.
1nubs in the front. This is my 5th suspension rebuild on 123/124 but thanks for looking out.
 
Rear B8s are in. The outer rear spring perch bearings are completely shot but the rest of the multilink arm were in decent condition. Next up, insurance, tags and a drive to the local muffler shop.

The transmission is slow to engage in reverse and seemed to hunt a bit when starting from a stop. I need to check the fluid level, but will do an oil, trans and diff fluid change soon. Anyone have a preferred trans flush they recommend?
 
Careful now. The dismay of hearing an already broken clip fall down the inside of the c pillar.20230228_184849.jpg
 

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Headliner is out for a recovery, had to go with a fabric which wasn't my favorite.

Did the rear outer lower control arm bearings this weekend, boy did I forget what an absolute PITA those are. The pld ones were completely shot and I had crazy torque steer. The arms were mostly ok but I think the drinkers side might need a few replacements. Parking brake pads fell off so did those as well. Went ahead and cut down some steel sway bar links. With any luck, the headliner will be back earlier this week and I can finally get this thing out on the GA autobahn.
 

Went for a drive yesterday while the weather was out.

Some things to sort out:

Power steering line blew as I was pulling out of the garage. It's hard to tell where at this point, think I will jack it up and put more atf in and confirm its the high pressure hose. It's definitely cramped in there and I'll post some pics for opinions. Going to check mounts while I'm in there as well.

In P the car idles perfectly, but in D or R, while stopped the idle is intermittently loping/hunting. Seems to go away when warm. I still have the crossover exhaust tube loosened, so I wanted to get my exhaust fixed (tomorrow) before digging into this more because the O2 sensor may not get adequate flow. Cam advance also seems to have stopped working, so this might also be related to the o2 sensor. Going do a few more drive cycles and pull codes.

Car shifts a bit wierd sometimes, I think I need more miles on the road to characterize it.

Lastly, when braking at 65mph, I get a death wobble in the steering. Wheels may need balancing but I was thinking more along the lines of tie rods and idler arm bushing.

All in all, for the 45minutes I drove it, the car was amazingly smooth, particularly on the hwy. My current cars are a 67 bug, 15 leaf, 09 LX570 and 06 Tundra and this car is smoother to drive than all of tthem. Even the leaf, which is super quiet, lacks all of the sound deadening and weight that the E420 has. I forgot how much I like driving a car where you can actually see all around you.
 

Went for a drive yesterday while the weather was out.

Some things to sort out:

Power steering line blew as I was pulling out of the garage. Its hard to tell where at this point, think I will jack it up and put more atf in and confirm its the high pressure hose. Its definitely cramped in there and Ill post some pics for opinions. Going to check mounts while Im in there as well.

In P the car idles perfectly, but in D or R, while stopped the idle is intermittently loping/hunting. Seems to go away when warm. I still have the crossover exhaust tube loosened, so I wanted to get my exhaust fixed (tomorrow) before digging into this more because the O2 sensor may not get adequate flow. Cam advance also seems to have stopped working, so this might also be related to the o2 sensor. Going do a few more drive cycles and pull codes.

Car shifts a bit wierd sometimes, I think I need more miles on the road to characterize it.

Lastly, when braking at 65mph, I get a death wobble in the steering. Wheels may need balancing but I was thinking more along the lines of tie rods and idler arm bushing.

All in all, for the 45minutes I drove it, the car was amazingly smooth, particularly on the hwy. My current cars are a 67 bug, 15 leaf, 09 LX570 and 06 Tundra and this car is smoother to drive than all of tthem. Even the leaf, which is super quiet, lacks all of the sound deadening and weight that the E420 has. I forgot how much I like driving a car where you can actually see all around you.
@winmutt, I also love ❤️ your saddle interior. I wish that MB had put it in the 500E500.

PS: On the death wobble. I think it may be a combination of what you mentioned plus the steering damper which you did not. If the damper is shot it would contribute heavily to the wobble. That’s a quick easy fix to replace. It might help a lot.

Unless your ball joints are bad. Just replace the tie rod ends and the front sway bar bushings and the damper plus an alignment and your good to go for a long time.😊
 
Death wobble in the steering: Is the steering shock new? If not, unbolt one end and push/pull on it. Should require a lot of muscle to move.

No cam advance results in very weak midrange power, 2-4krpm. O2 readings won't affect cam advance.
 
Death wobble in the steering: Is the steering shock new? If not, unbolt one end and push/pull on it. Should require a lot of muscle to move.

No cam advance results in very weak midrange power, 2-4krpm. O2 readings wont affect cam advance.
Yes, I'm categorizing the weak midrange as lack of cam advance. Interesting about 02, I'll revisit my hypothesis
 
Well. Its been a while, this steering hose has turned into many, many, many things but today I almost have it buttoned back up. I ended up getting the right tap for the PS pump hose fitting and with some coaxing got it to feed and managed to get the hose back on. It had definitely been cross thread previously based on the way the tap was catching. I also noticed that the washers on the steering gear box were definitely not MB.

So, with my RTV sealant on the PS reservoir, buggered threads on the fitting and a steering box that appears to have been remounted, I am starting to wonder if this hose popping thing is just a sign of things to come. Its worth noting that the PS reservoir lid was already "loose" when I got the car. Fingers crossed and many cursings later, things will go well.
 
That sinking feeling... So I have replaced the breather hose and now at 3500+ I consistently get large amounts of blue smoke. I pulled the right valve cover and yes the funnel was loose and the oil separator nipple broken off in it. Incredulous at what I saw being able to deliver the large plumes of smoke, I put it back together to do a compression test (waiting on new separator/funnel/gasket) and pull all the plugs per FSM instructions for the test. #8 is oily. I will do a compression test this weekend, please pray for #8.
 
The lows and highs!!! Pulled the car out to warm it up for the compression test and lo!!! I spotted oil in a vac line! My trans modulator must have a rip! I unplugged it and went for a spirited ride and my smoking problem is gone! This also explains the 3qt I had to put into the Trans. When I got the car, in its non running state, the transmission modulator line was unplugged. I dutifully plugged it back in at some point chasing vacuum issues.
 
they sell exhaust back pressure testers...you can add an O2 sensor bung to the system pre-cat and test if you want HARD numbers... Looseing that cross over pipe and letting it point away from the main system is what we try to do so you stil have a Little length after the manifold..

When we seperate these systems the BIG flame wrench comes out.
With that you stand a Chance of getting it apart and getting things from getting mangled. It's a 2-3 man affair though, lots of fighting to get it to relent. Not a good time.
 
And so it begins... a lot bigger in-person than it was tucked up in the tunnel. You can see how hard of a hit it took. Looking in the back the honeycomb is still intact on both cats but shaking it around I can hear large chunks. The 02 sensor also took a hit and I can't get it out, there isn't enough room around it to get anything but a thin wall 12pt socket on it, maybe and the wire end is bent over.

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I ordered a 92 wot module, plugged it in and went to reset LH module. Code 22 came up on the reader (o2 sensor) and I reset it and the LH module. Went for a drive, nothing to speak about. Next day, CEL came on. I pulled the module and called the junkyard, they are sending me a replacement. Put the old one I which was a 021... extra adaption module. Drove around and CEL came back on, again for O2. Got into reading Oxygen sensor information | M119 Engine, I had ordered the #15058. Concerned now that my O2 sensor wire was wrapped around the DS, despite a decent zip tie (I'll add a few more) I put it up on ramps. I found everything looked OK but the plug lock was not engaging properly, I tightened it as best as I could. Confident I found the source of my problems, I put the WOT module back in. When I got the car running originally with the cats in, the car had a loping idle in gear. I'm pretty confident now that the old o2 sensor was fouled or buggered despite no code for it. The cats hadnl taken a curb hit, or similar and the O2 sensor was definitely at a non stock angle. Despite no 22 code on pin 4 again with the 021... LH module in and the 22 code not coming back after clearing with the WOT module, DM had reported both 2 and 12 when the CEL.

All of this to say, WOT module is working great now, apparently I'd been driving around in limp mode this whole time with no codes to show for it. The WOT module was the first signs of problems. Hunting idles in gear are a good sign your AFR is bad and you may not know it. It might be adaption, the learning cycle is not clearly documented, but it's most prevalent after reset with a hunting idle.

The car absolutely sings now. Time to move on to HVAC (no fan at all, regulator time) and a few other bits and bobs. I still have a small power steering fluid leak I can't find but at this point am going to wait until cooler months prevail.
 
The O2 sensor looks closer to the DS than it is from this angle.
 

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At it again with this steering. Had a massive leak, I suspect the power steering oil filter housing, I had replaced the $32 paper gasket and found that one of the housing e8 bolt had stripped. I only replaced the gasket because I saw rtv in there, I should have left well enough alone. I didn't see any evidence of leakage around the housing but the connecting hose is very suspect. I have a complete PS pump + housing from a recent junkyard adventur so am replacing it all since the PS pump high pressure hose threads are chewed up.
 

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The hose is a very common leak. Search the forum for details. Re-seal the junkyard PS pump before installing.
 
Here is a tip brother..... I cannot tell for sure, but if that cam magnet is leaking oil, just replace it and the armature with new bolts. You cannot do it with the reservoir in place.
 
The hose is a very common leak. Search the forum for details. Re-seal the junkyard PS pump before installing.
I did not reseal it but I ended up using the front from the old one as the junkyard PS bearing had axial play. Seems to be holding up well.
 
The 2.86 rear diff was definitely worth the cost and effort. The exhaust now has a flex pipe to relieve too much tension on the vband. Got the front bumper mounted and fitment is good. I have a new used grill to go on as well as some body work on below the headlight. Rear bumper is partially fitted need to do the side mounts which is a bit tricky.
 

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