1992 500E upper oil pan gasket leaking.

[amerh]

Looks like I have a leaking upper oil pan gasket on my 500E. Is there anyway to replace the gasket without having to remove the whole engine? I was quoted that the removal / installation of the engine is a 22hr job on its own. Would appreciate any advice and recommendations.

Would using an oil stop leak additive work as a temporary measure?

Thanks in advance.

 

[DW SD]

Are you sure it isn't the oil level sender? I replaced mine with OEM part and after 6 months it is already weeping a bit. It did create a mess that appeared to be the upper pan gasket.

I do not think removing the engine is 22 hours. At the least, you'll need to get it off of the motor mounts, which should probably be replaced in the process.

If you do that, reseal everything.

Doug

 

[gsxr]

It is very, very, very unusual to have an upper pan gasket leak (between the aluminum pan and the engine block). I've actually never heard of a confirmed leak in this area. The leak source is almost always something else, that appears to be coming from the upper pan. I think it could be done without removing the entire engine, but it would be a miserable job... probably easier to remove the engine, ugh. FSM says you just need to lift the engine as high as possible (click here).

Full removal of the engine+transmission usually takes me about 8 hours, and it's about 12 hours to reinstall (including adding all fluids), so 20 hours just for R&R isn't out of line. Of course that doesn't include all the "while you're in there" things that should be done like replacing the trans blanket, all p/s and SLS return hoses, completely re-sealing the transmission, etc, etc. If you can't do the work yourself, it's generally not worthwhile unless you plan to keep the car for-ev-er. With the engine out you still have a problem, as the normal engine stand mounting points include the oil pan, so the motor would have to sit upside down on the intake & heads while you R&R the pan.

Anyway: No, don't use stop leak products of any kind. Clean the area in question squeaky clean with degreasers & rags, and try to pinpoint the source. You can stuff folded paper towels in various places (tie in place with wire or Zip ties if needed) to help identify the source. Common sources are the lower pan gasket, oil level sender, and cam adjust solenoids.

 

[amerh]

Thanks for the information and advice guys. I think I will take it in to the dealer to see if they can check on the leak and oil level sensor, and other likely culprits mentioned.

 

[emerydc8]

I just replaced the oil level sensor on my E420. As you can see from the pictures, it's pretty far up there and it appears to be adjacent to a counterbalance on the crankshaft so it throws oil right at the sensor.

 

[amerh]

Well looks like my oil leak problems are compounding. Did an oil change on the weekend, and now it looking like oil is coming out of the dipstick tube. Car runs good, and no exhaust smoke. Could this be due to too much oil? Level seems normal.

Car is going in Monday for the dealer to fix original leak, and now looks like I have another one for them to look at.

 

[gsxr]

Do you mean oil is coming out the TOP of the dipstick tube...!!?!?! If so, do you have photos? That ain't right...

 

[amerh]

Well I think it was due to about a liter too much oil being put in during the oil change. Noticed when I popped the hood open, oil was sprayed on the hood insulation above where the dipstick is, dipstick area covered in oil, and on some of the surrounding engine cover panels. Drained the oil down to the right level, gave the whole engine bay a good wipe down last nightl. Drove it on to work, popped the hood, and its all clean. Whew.

 

[szvook]

How did almost a liter more get in the car? Was the oil change done to factory specs?

 

[amerh]

Dealer tech looked at it today, figures it is the valve cover gasket on top and some lower gaskets leaking. Quoted $700 plus to replace the valve cover gasket, hoping that does the trick.

Seeing as the car was an import, the dealer wouldn't look at it without doing a overall inspection (and gladly charging me $200 for the privilage...lol), and entering it into Mercedes Canada system. Didn't mind the inspection as they did identify future area's that needed some work, but overall the inspection report looks decent. Left tie rod is seized, preventing an alignment getting done since I have the new staggered tire setup. Hoping that will fix an annoying shimmy and pull to the left (which seems to have been magnified with the wider tires).

 

[gerryvz]

$700 ?!? Wow. That's an hour's labor + the part. Spendy dealer.

 

[gsxr]

You could do it yourself in a few hours plus ~$100 in parts... $600 buys a lot of beer, or tires, or something else that isn't putting the dealer's kids through college.

 

[gerryvz]

Get some brake cleaner and after you change the valve cover gasket, clean the area well with the brake cleaner. THat way you will be able to see where any future leaks are coming from and if the valve cover gasket is contributing to them.

Seriously, this is a job that you can do yourself. The gasket is not expensive. The only "gotcha" is getting the cover fitted correctly at the back corner against the firewall. You need to do this very carefully and get a feel for how it seated (with your fingers) before it comes off, so that you know how it feels when it's properly seated after putting it back on. It will take you somewhere between 3 and 10 tries to get it seated correctly, so patience is in order. The problem is that clearance back there is so tight, that when you are sliding the valve cover into place on the top of the head, it often rubs the gasket and moves it out of its proper seating/channel/alignment on the valve cover. Then you have to pull it back off, reseat the gasket, and try to slide the valve cover into place again without disturbing the rubber seal. A delicate dance given the clearance.

You will need the special swiveling 5mm Allen socket, and a lot of new copper crush washers for the valve cover bolts -- don't re-use the old washers. You can get them extremely cheaply via AutohausAZ.com ... just order 20 of them to have an extra supply on hand in case you ever need to remove the other valve cover or re-do your one that comes off.

There's more info on the valve cover removal/install process on this thread. SERIOUSLY, it's something that doesn't require much mechanical skill. This is a job where it's DEFINITELY not worth paying a dealer $700 to do. If you don't want to do it, an indy shop I'd think would do it for $100-200 labor + parts.

Here's a post that makes the caution that I mentioned above. Also ... ONLY buy Genuine MB valve cover gasket(s) -- DO NOT get aftermarket gaskets as they will not fit correctly.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[amerh]

Thanks guys....I will give the service manager a call, looks like they have allocated 5 hrs of labour for this job. Time to get back on a first name basis with some of the better local indy german car specialty shops in town. Only justification I can see is if the labour estimate includes the tie-rod installs but sure doesn't look like it.

 

[gerryvz]

A tie-rod install is another hour of labor, plus an alignment at extra cost. Basically a tie rod is a couple or three nuts/bolts.

Sounds like you have a seriously greedy dealer.

 

[samiam44]

Maybe dealer is doing more? Both tie rods and idler bushings. , valve cover and you are getting close.

You could replace all the steering and both valve cover gaskets.. a morning and have beer money