1995 E420 Fuel Pump Questions

[sytruong]

Hi everyone,

I am hearing some turbulant sounding noises from my fuel pump area. It looks like the entire unit had been replaced at some time in the past, as it has junkyard numbers written on it. I have a 1995 E420, and the system it has installed right now has an accumualtor on it. I looked online, and it doesn't seem like my model is supposed to have an accumulator.

So I'd like to get this thing dealt with properly. Can someone please post a picture of what the fuel pump/filter set up is supposed to look like and provide some advice on how to piece together the proper system?

It has 2 functioning fuel pumps, 1 fuel filter, and 1 fuel accumulator. I suppose I can delete the accumulator if the car wasnt originally equipped with one, but I have to figure out the hoses and fittings issue.

Here's what's on the car right now. I wouldn't be surprised if the previous owner had it replaced with a setup from another car, there's just a bunch of mickey mouse stuff going on in this car that I'm finding out.

Thanks in advance.

 

[gsxr]

Yikes! Never seen that before. You are right, someone installed a junkyard pump assembly from a 1980's model with accumulator. The correct setup is nearly identical, sans accumulator. Is your car early or late 1995 production? Late 95 cars have a single fuel pump with a "plain" hose exiting the filter to the hard pipe on the chassis. Early cars have dual pump and the exit hose has threaded metal fittings on both ends.

I have good photos of the early style with twin pumps, but if your car is late production, you may want to switch to the original single-pump setup. Not sure if I have any good pictures of the single pump, I'd have to check.

 

[nocfn]

best to post your vin and get what you need

 

[sytruong]

Thanks for your insight. VIN is WDBEA34E0SC177688

 

[sytruong]

Yikes! Never seen that before. You are right, someone installed a junkyard pump assembly from a 1980's model with accumulator. The correct setup is nearly identical, sans accumulator. Is your car early or late 1995 production? Late 95 cars have a single fuel pump with a "plain" hose exiting the filter to the hard pipe on the chassis. Early cars have dual pump and the exit hose has threaded metal fittings on both ends.

I have good photos of the early style with twin pumps, but if your car is late production, you may want to switch to the original single-pump setup. Not sure if I have any good pictures of the single pump, I'd have to check.

Thank you, I suppose I'll order the appropriate fuel pump and filter and see what I can re-use to make it work from the current setup

 

[sytruong]

@gsxr you quoted in your thread that

Very late-build 124's have a single pump, used from approximately January 1995 production.

000-470-59-94 - 1 required - Fuel pump, 43mm OD, as of chassis C226336 ( supercedes to MB # 000-470-78-94 )
002-477-27-01 - 1 required - Fuel filter, 75mm OD, as of chassis C226336 (

Aftermarket pump info:
Bosch #67968 or 0-986-580-372, Pierburg / TI Automotive 7.22156.50.0

Chassis C226336... I'm on chassis C177...

Would it be fine to run the same pump setup you mentioned?

edit - nevermind, I found some Bosch pump on partsgeek that look like theyre appropirate for my chassis number.

 

[sytruong]

Sorry for all the postings -

But in case nothing mounts up to whatevers on there, are there any other setups that I can use from other cars? R129 or S500 for example? The part no's might not be the same, but would I experience any issues?

 

[nocfn]

I get my pumps from Amazon, check pricing for genuine Bosch from several retailers. Also, do not forget new copper seals. Our 30+ MB MX guru strongly suggest a bit of MB green bearing grease coated on both sides of the copper seals. Stops leaking when properly torqued to spec. (without the grease they are often drippers at torque spec) ymmv

as for me and my cars, I will coat the seals

 

[gsxr]

Your car is early 1995 USA model year production, and requires the dual-pump setup described in post #31 in the thread linked above.

Make sure to only buy Genuine Bosch pumps, and only the part numbers in the post above. Use the grease @nocfn mentioned above on the copper seals when installing.

The correct fuel pump package looks like this:

EDIT: Photos below show new pumps, new filter, new intermediate hose, new feed hose from fuel tank, and new OE/Genuine high pressure hose from filter outlet to the hard pipe at the chassis.

 

[sytruong]

Thank you, if this is the case, perhaps I can just delete my accumulator some how. I'll take a look at it

Your car is early 1995 USA model year production, and requires the dual-pump setup described in post #31 in the thread linked above.

Make sure to only buy Genuine Bosch pumps, and only the part numbers in the post above. Use the grease @nocfn mentioned above on the copper seals when installing.

The correct fuel pump package looks like this:

View attachment 223291 View attachment 223292 View attachment 223293 View attachment 223294 View attachment 223295 View attachment 223296 View attachment 223297

 

[sytruong]

After researching around online about converting the dual pumps to a single pump, I decided to order the complete fuel pump setup from an SL500.

I just pulled the trigger on an eBay listing... I figured it was the most hassle free and reliable option for me to go. The listing had everything intact and it looks to be in good condition. The part number on the fuel pump look to be for an SL500 as well 000.470.something something...

I saw @gsxr post about rebuilding the fuel pump assembly, along with clips, it was very thorough and good, but I got this entire thing for $100. I'm a gambling man, so I figured the pump should be good, if not, that's fine, I wouldn't mind buying a new pump. Obviously, the filter will be replaced. The main reason is that I wanted all the components to be there... like the clips, mounting bracket, all the little things that I know will add up (including shipping). At $5 a clip + $15 shipping... These little components can add up!!!! And I don't want to wait around to receive little components I might have missed (it's happened many times before)...

Anyway, I'll keep this post updated. I figured this would be easier than piecing together the proper dual pump setup. It's hard to find E420 parts, as there's so many more SL500's and S500's out there, with a presumably equal or higher demand for fuel.

 

[gsxr]

That should work fine. You'll need to add a splice into the outlet hose from the filter, which connects to the frame rail pipe. DO NOT cut the threaded end off the metal pipe.

FWIW - the single pump is quieter (nearly silent), but also is more prone to seizure when a vehicle is in long term storage (many months, or years).

 

[sytruong]

Thank you sir

 

[sytruong]

So updates... I purchased the fuel pump assembly from eBay and surprise surprise, the fuel pump didn't work and the Seller is not responding to me. The fuel pump was advertised as working.

Anyway, whatever I suppose it's better if I buy a new fuel pump anyway. I bought a Piersburg from rock auto. And they are made in China now!!! For the 200 bucks I spent, I was expecting German or European or something. Anyway, I suppose everything is made in China now and their manufacturing quality is pretty good compared to most people's expectations.

I started to remove my old assembly, and I sprung a leak from the main hose from the tank to the fuel pump. I suppose it's better that I find out. It leaks now rather than later by surprise.





But now I'm off on that adventure. I'm slowly acquiring all the parts and tools needed. I ordered the OEM hose from pelican parts, which is nearby.

I'm kind of taking my time with this. I knew this was a project car when I got it. Even though it looks nice and drive as well. It still needs all the basic maintenance, which is turning out to be a lot considering the previous owner or mechanic really did some Mickey Mouse work on it. I still have this thing to push around, which also can use more maintenance as well.






These old Benzes are a pain in the ass to work on compared to the Hondas/Toyotas that I'm used to, but they drive much better than pretty much every single car out there, even new cars...

I did some searching and I found that I can remove that hose using a 22 mm crow foot wrench. According to the thread, I don't have SLS, and it looks like I have enough space to fit across foot wrench in there. Can someone confirm that a 22 mm would work?

 

[emerydc8]

Thread 'Main fuel feed line leaking'
Main fuel feed line leaking | 400E / E420 Discussions

 

[sytruong]

Thread 'Main fuel feed line leaking'
Main fuel feed line leaking | 400E / E420 Discussions

Yes, that's the thread I was referring to. I just need confirmation if the crows foot wrench size is 22mm for that main fuel line

 

[emerydc8]

It looks like it.

FYI Post in thread 'Fuel Pump and Hose Replacement Info with part numbers (Was: Fuel leak while running)'

Nov 2, 2021

The tank hose is a PITA to replace. The best option is to drop the differential, if you have ANY excuse to do so... tiniest sign of a weeping seal? Pull the diff.

With the diff in place, you have to get really creative. From memory, I had to slide an open-end wrench under the tank from inside the trunk, with the vertical trunk carpet pulled, to break it free... then try to get my hands around the diff to unscrew the hose from the tank strainer. Don't cross-thread when installing the new hose! IIRC, there were issues trying to fit any open-end wrench above the diff, with the other...

• Ricardo

• 

 

[sytruong]

After 3 days of experimenting, I finally got this stupid hose loose.

For the record. I have a E420. I did not remove the differential. I am removing the fuel tank anyway for cleaning and full hose replacement. But that doesn't really matter. If you were to do this the way I did it, just make sure you get the right crows foot wrench. Also, if I had to do it again hundred percent you would have to loosen up the fuel tank. You don't have to remove it, just loosen it enough so that you can move it around maybe 1 cm or a half inch so that you can get the entire crow's foot wrench in that space. All I use were some extensions to get the ratchet to clear the differential, and a cheater bar for more torque and within five minutes just like That of maneuvering around it came out if I had known this set up earlier, I could've literally done this in 15 minutes.

Thank you everybody for your help. This forum is a great resource.

 

[sytruong]

Fuel strainer thoroughly cooked

 

[sytruong]

124-476-04-32

Amazing post. Ordering from this list!