1997 G320 viscous fan

[Seadog]

Just joined the 500e club so to speak, looking for advice.
I have just purchased a 1997 AMG Japan Mercedes G320 which arrived with an immediate overheating problem. I believe it’s the fan clutch as the fan was not turning when I opened the hood with the engine running to check what the problem was after driving up a very steep hill.
Where can I purchase the clutch mechanism

 

[gerryvz]

Just joined the 500e club so to speak, looking for advice.
I have just purchased a 1997 AMG Japan Mercedes G320 which arrived with an immediate overheating problem. I believe it’s the fan clutch as the fan was not turning when I opened the hood with the engine running to check what the problem was after driving up a very steep hill.
Where can I purchase the clutch mechanism

Congrats on your purchase!

I believe this is a fan clutch that is specific to the G-wagen M104 engine. Part number: 103 200 11 22. The list price of this 11 22 fan clutch has gone up to $340. Wow.

I recommend that you order it from an MB dealership. There are several MB dealers that sell parts via mail order, that will give you good discounted prices. Here's a good one.

There is a good HOW-TO on replacing the fan clutch located at the link below.

I also STRONGLY recommend you also replace the thermostat when you do the fan clutch. I had a bad overheating problem in my M104 that ended up being a bad thermostat.

Merry Christmas!
Cheers,
Gerry

HOW-TO: Replacing M104 (W463) Fan Clutch | G-Wagen Models

Recently, I had an issue by where my 1994 G-Wagen (M104 engine) ran between 110C and 120C, particularly during uphill climbs and at slow speeds. After some research, I diagnosed the issue as a defective fan clutch. Thus, replacement of the fan clutch was in order. The MB part number for the...

www.500eboard.co

 

[Seadog]

Congrats on your purchase!

I believe this is a fan clutch that is specific to the G-wagen M104 engine. Part number: 103 200 11 22. The list price of this 11 22 fan clutch has gone up to $340. Wow.

I recommend that you order it from an MB dealership. There are several MB dealers that sell parts via mail order, that will give you good discounted prices. Here's a good one.

There is a good HOW-TO on replacing the fan clutch located at the link below.

I also STRONGLY recommend you also replace the thermostat when you do the fan clutch. I had a bad overheating problem in my M104 that ended up being a bad thermostat.

Merry Christmas!
Cheers,
Gerry

HOW-TO: Replacing M104 (W463) Fan Clutch | G-Wagen Models

Recently, I had an issue by where my 1994 G-Wagen (M104 engine) ran between 110C and 120C, particularly during uphill climbs and at slow speeds. After some research, I diagnosed the issue as a defective fan clutch. Thus, replacement of the fan clutch was in order. The MB part number for the...

www.500eboard.co

Hi Gerry,
Thanks for responding so promptly, I hoped it would be you responding having seen your commentary on this model. The vehicle did not have a thermostat so the previous owner probably had overheating issues prior to selling the vehicle. However, the wagon is in excellent condition otherwise and the engine runs as smooth as a top. I will contact your suggested supplier and report back on progress. As you appear to be an expert on this model, could you let me have an email address for you, we are in the British Virgin Islands, so, one has to be self sufficient !!

Regards’

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

You need to get a thermostat installed ASAP. Try to get a Wahler unit if you can. My e-mail address is gerry (at) vanzandt.us

 

[Seadog]

You need to get a thermostat installed ASAP. Try to get a Wahler unit if you can. My e-mail address is gerry (at) vanzandt.us

Hi Gerry, I have ordered both the Fan Clutch and thermostat from the supplier you identified, getting them to our island is a bit of an exercise. Yesterday I vacuumed the AC system and recharged it with the required amount of refrigerant, we now have excellent AC, however, the G wagon’s cooling system got very hot in the process. He radiator fan was still operating throughout the exercise, but, without a thermostat in place. I will replace the fan clutch and thermostat when it arrives, which, if not successful, raises the possibility of the radiator, water pump, or, both being suspect. More later

Eric

 

[Seadog]

Congrats on your purchase!

I believe this is a fan clutch that is specific to the G-wagen M104 engine. Part number: 103 200 11 22. The list price of this 11 22 fan clutch has gone up to $340. Wow.

I recommend that you order it from an MB dealership. There are several MB dealers that sell parts via mail order, that will give you good discounted prices. Here's a good one.

There is a good HOW-TO on replacing the fan clutch located at the link below.

I also STRONGLY recommend you also replace the thermostat when you do the fan clutch. I had a bad overheating problem in my M104 that ended up being a bad thermostat.

Merry Christmas!
Cheers,
Gerry

HOW-TO: Replacing M104 (W463) Fan Clutch | G-Wagen Models

Recently, I had an issue by where my 1994 G-Wagen (M104 engine) ran between 110C and 120C, particularly during uphill climbs and at slow speeds. After some research, I diagnosed the issue as a defective fan clutch. Thus, replacement of the fan clutch was in order. The MB part number for the...

www.500eboard.co

Hi Gerry,

Well, since we last communicated I have removed the fan clutch, radiator, and, water pump. Whilst I was at it I removed the serpentine belt as the old one looked somewhat tired. I thoroughly cleaned the radiator inside and out and there appears to be good flow through it, a new water pump, thermostat and Serp belt are on their way, and, I have fitted the new fan clutch. Checked all the hoses and they seem fine, so, hope to have the pump etc by the end of the week and we will see if the overheating has been resolved !!

 

[gerryvz]

I think you will find that your problem will be taken care of. My G320 runs amazingly cool now, and it barely EVER gets off of the 85-87C mark.

 

[Seadog]

Thanks’ I will keep you posted !!!

Eric

 

[Seadog]

Hi Gerry,

Well, since we last communicated I have removed the fan clutch, radiator, and, water pump. Whilst I was at it I removed the serpentine belt as the old one looked somewhat tired. I thoroughly cleaned the radiator inside and out and there appears to be good flow through it, a new water pump, thermostat and Serp belt are on their way, and, I have fitted the new fan clutch. Checked all the hoses and they seem fine, so, hope to have the pump etc by the end of the week and we will see if the overheating has been resolved !!

Hi Gerry,

well, seems like they may have sent me the wrong serpentine belt for my G320, do you have a note of the Mercedes part number by any chance ??
Eric

 

[gerryvz]

Please PM me your VIN, and I will get you the correct number.

 

[Seadog]

Hi Gerry,
Thanks for the prompt response.
My G320 VIN is: WDB46323117108028

Some info that might assist:
The new belt I received from Mercedes is part number 0119974792, but, the old belt part number is: 0119973492, so, the new belt is roughly 1.37 inches longer.
Question: the belt goes over the top of the water pump pulley, and, seems to also touch up against the bottom of the water pump pulley thereby coming into contact with both the top and bottom of the water pump pulley, is this correct ???

regards’

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

Yes, there are two different part numbers (corresponding to serpentine belt lengths) for the 104.996 engine.

According to your FIN, your engine serial number ends in 033711.

The first belt is 011 997 47 92. This is 2415mm in length, and is only applicable to 104.996 engines with serial number up to 002383. These would be very very early trucks.

The second belt is 011 997 34 92. This is 2380mm in length, and is only applicable to 104.996 engines with serial number of 002384 and higher. This is also the belt that my G320 takes. This is the correct belt for your truck.

Here is the correct routing for the belt.

 

[Seadog]

Thanks Gerry that’s very helpful, on the diagram you attached it does look like the serpentine belt touches both the top and bottom of the water pump pulley, is that correct, or, should it not touch the bottom of the pulley also.

regards’

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

That is 100% correct.

 

[Seadog]

Should or should not touch ??

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

It should touch. The diagram is correct in that pulley is touched from both sides. One of the pulleys on the 500E is exactly the same type of "dual touch" routing.

 

[Seadog]

It pays to play close attention to your advice Gerry, put the large piece of fan shroud back in place before placing the small piece in over the fan first, now I can’t get the small piece in. Looked at the pictures you posted and realize I now have to take the shroud out again and do the job properly !!!!

we clearly learn by our mistakes !!

Eric

 

[Seadog]

It should touch. The diagram is correct in that pulley is touched from both sides. One of the pulleys on the 500E is exactly the same type of "dual touch" routing.

Roger that, thanks’

Eric

 

[Seadog]

One last question Gerry, where is the valve to drain the block of coolant on my 1997 G320??

 

[gerryvz]

One last question Gerry, where is the valve to drain the block of coolant on my 1997 G320??

Post about removing drain and draining block.

HOW-TO: Replacing M119 Coolant Thermostat (500E, E500, 400E, E420) | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

For some months now, I've noticed what I've come to believe is a "lazy" thermostat .. meaning that the car takes a while for the coolant temp needle to get to the 80C mark. In cold (40-60F ambient...remember, I live in Texas!) weather, it can take 6-7 miles, which is too long. Seeing as in 11+...

www.500eboard.co

 

[Seadog]

It would help if I actually knew where to look in terms of the location of the drain valve, I am mid seventies and the eyes are not as good as they were. The pictures are very good but they give no idea of which part of the engine the valve is located !!

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

The block drain is on the right side (passenger side for left-hand drive trucks) directly under the exhaust manifold, about half-way up the block. It’s an aluminum nipple that sticks out of the side of the block, parallel to the ground. You can clearly see the drain in one of my photos, directly under the manifold

You should be able to loosen it with a 19mm box-end wrench or a deep 19mm socket. The main thing is to get a good bite on it. If you use a box end wrench, you can use a hammer to tap the end of the wrench to break it loose. For a socket, a 12-inch pipe inserted onto the end of the handle can give more leverage to break it free. A six-point socket is preferable.

What you want to do is break it loose, then snug it back down. Then put a hose on the nipple end of it, loosen it (if the hose fits tightly you can just turn the hose with your hand, and direct the flow of coolant down into a drain pan.

The truck is up high enough so that you shouldn’t have to jack it up to do this. Wear eye protection and have a drain pan with capacity of 6 or more liters.

Hopefully no one has messed with yours previously, like mine was messed with. I struggled with it for the better part of two days. I was very very close to having the truck towed to my friend’s shop to have him work on it, but I was able to literally CHISEL it and collapse it inward so I could extract it. Per the photo I showed. I still have it as a souvenir of probably the ONLY automotive repair item where I came very close to admitting defeat.

Good luck and let us know how it goes !!

 

[Seadog]

The block drain is on the right side (passenger side for left-hand drive trucks) directly under the exhaust manifold, about half-way up the block. It’s an aluminum nipple that sticks out of the side of the block, parallel to the ground. You can clearly see the drain in one of my photos, directly under the manifold

You should be able to loosen it with a 19mm box-end wrench or a deep 19mm socket. The main thing is to get a good bite on it. If you use a box end wrench, you can use a hammer to tap the end of the wrench to break it loose. For a socket, a 12-inch pipe inserted onto the end of the handle can give more leverage to break it free. A six-point socket is preferable.

What you want to do is break it loose, then snug it back down. Then put a hose on the nipple end of it, loosen it (if the hose fits tightly you can just turn the hose with your hand, and direct the flow of coolant down into a drain pan.

The truck is up high enough so that you shouldn’t have to jack it up to do this. Wear eye protection and have a drain pan with capacity of 6 or more liters.

Hopefully no one has messed with yours previously, like mine was messed with. I struggled with it for the better part of two days. I was very very close to having the truck towed to my friend’s shop to have him work on it, but I was able to literally CHISEL it and collapse it inward so I could extract it. Per the photo I showed. I still have it as a souvenir of probably the ONLY automotive repair item where I came very close to admitting defeat.

Good luck and let us know how it goes !!

Thanks Gerry, I shall be on it first thing today and will report back on progress. Do you know where I could obtain an owners manual on the G320, the one that came with the car is in Japanese !!!
Likewise, where can one find a workshop manual ???

Regards’

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

I have these in PDF format. They are difficult to find. Please let me know when you have downloaded them.

https://www.500eboard.co/misc/G320_owner_manual.pdf

https://www.500eboard.co/misc/G320_service_manual.pdf

https://www.500eboard.co/misc/G320_maint_manual.pdf

 

[Seadog]

Gerry, thanks’ that’s absolutely outstanding. I will set about downloading them later today

Many thanks

Eric

 

[Seadog]

Hi Gerry,

Well, my car had a 17ml ordinary bolt on the block drain, came off easily and everything is put back together other than the front grill and engine / radiator protection plate. Would you believe my water pump had a faulty casting, instead of being round where the thermostat sits, it had a straight section and when I tightened down the thermostat housing, the top of the casting above where the stat sits cracked. However, it seem water tight as it’s only the top 3/16 that has cracked, with everything but the grill and steel plate put back I went to start her, but, the battery was flat, she cranked over a dozen times but did not start ????

More later

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

You are saying that the block drain was just a bolt in there, not an actual drain? That tells me that someone was in there and replaced the block drain with a bolt. Wow.

It's not 100% uncommon for water pumps bought on the aftermarket to have bad castings. If you replace yours, the G320 requires a special pump part number as opposed to the regular 3.2-liter sedans and wagons and such. So make sure to get the correct one. I have a spare one, made by Graf.

I recently replaced my M119 water pump with a Graf aftermarket model, and the casting quality was visibly not as good as the factory pump was. Haven't had to do my G-wagen yet, but the pump is ready if/when needed.

 

[Seadog]

The new pump was a Mercedes original market pump, I purchased it from the Annapolis Mercedes supplier you recommended. I will call them and let them know about the product. The problem is I did not want to have to take everything apart again, to say nothing about having to FedEx it to the British Virgin Islands as that’s the only way to get “stuff” here because of Covid. Additionally, the dealer won’t ship International, so, they FedEx it to my daughter in Cleveland, and, she FedEx’s it on to me. My pump, thermostat, fan clutch and serpentine belt cost circa $400, and, it cost a further $450 in shipping costs to FedEx it to her, then, on to me.

interesting times !!!!

Eric

 

[Seadog]

OK, hopefully final report Gerry. Had a couple of Malt whiskies whilst the battery charged, then fitted the battery, turned the key, and, Voila, she started and ran smooth. She got up to circa 90 degrees in 4 to five minutes and then shot straight back down to 80 degrees when the thermostat opened. I did not take her for a test ride because of the whiskies, but, tomorrow will be the day.

Thanks for all the help.

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

Let me know how she is running.

Also if you downloaded those files, so I can remove them again from the server.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[Seadog]

On it today, had to learn how to download files on Apple equipment !!

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

They should go right to your "Downloads" file, accessible at the dock at the bottom of the screen next to the trash can.

 

[Seadog]

I am a bit of a muppet when it comes to computers, I will drag out my old laptop and download the

 

[Seadog]

HI Gerry,

Well, the overheating problem seems to have been resolved, took her for a couple of mile drive and then up our very, very steep hill on which we live. She seemed to struggle up our hill a little, is there a low range gear selection on this model, I also have a Landrover Defender 90 with the 4 cylinder turbo diesel which needs the low range selection to do our hill comfortably.

 

[Seadog]

Hi Gerry,

Having read the Owners Manual I learned about the transfer case gearing, will give that a try, do you think they introduced the V8 engine to give the G Wagons more power in view of their weight ??

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

I think they offered the V-8 engine because of the general customer desire for more powerful cars and trucks. Also the G-wagen is heavy, so more power and torque is always welcome.

For most off-road use, having 500-600 HP is not at all needed. But most G-wagens aren't used off-road, but as grocery-getters for bored, rich housewives and celebrities in California and Florida.

The G-wagen got along quite fine from 1979 through the late 1990s with not-very-powerful Diesel, four and six-cylinder engines. These are engines with 225 HP and less. In the case of some of the Diesel engines, around one-half that amount.

 

[Seadog]

Hi Gerry,

I have successfully downloaded all the manuals at long last, so, feel free to remove them.

Many thanks for all your guidance.

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

Hi Gerry,

I have successfully downloaded all the manuals at long last, so, feel free to remove them.

Many thanks for all your guidance.

Eric

Thanks much !

 

[Seadog]

Hi Gerry,

Reading through the maintenance manual I could not see the M104 engine, only the M103. There are other engines mentioned, are any of those the M104.

Regards’

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

No. It’s a slightly earlier manual than the 104. But the 103 is close enough in most respects that much of it should apply. It’s the best I can do.

 

[Seadog]

Roger that, just wanted to be up to speed thanks’
Eric

 

[Seadog]

Congrats on your purchase!

I believe this is a fan clutch that is specific to the G-wagen M104 engine. Part number: 103 200 11 22. The list price of this 11 22 fan clutch has gone up to $340. Wow.

I recommend that you order it from an MB dealership. There are several MB dealers that sell parts via mail order, that will give you good discounted prices. Here's a good one.

There is a good HOW-TO on replacing the fan clutch located at the link below.

I also STRONGLY recommend you also replace the thermostat when you do the fan clutch. I had a bad overheating problem in my M104 that ended up being a bad thermostat.

Merry Christmas!
Cheers,
Gerry

HOW-TO: Replacing M104 (W463) Fan Clutch | G-Wagen Models

Recently, I had an issue by where my 1994 G-Wagen (M104 engine) ran between 110C and 120C, particularly during uphill climbs and at slow speeds. After some research, I diagnosed the issue as a defective fan clutch. Thus, replacement of the fan clutch was in order. The MB part number for the...

www.500eboard.co

Hi Gerry,

I can’t find our conversation about my transmission, but, I have since found out my reverse clutches have gone, so, I have to remove the transmission from my G320. I think I saw somewhere you had done this, do you have an “idiots” guide to doing this.

Regards’

Eric

 

[gerryvz]

Unfortunately I have never done this on my G-wagen.

However I did it on my former E320. It's basically going to be the same process. You can find the thread detailing transmission removal and replacement here:

HOW-TO: Removing & Replacing 722.3 transmission (W124/M104) | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

Well, as I'd mentioned on another thread, last Sunday my wife's 1995 E320 wagon transmission died, with 203,200 miles on the odometer. It died suddenly, losing all four forward gears. Reverse worked fine. This is the classic 722.3 "B2 piston failure" that is very common to the 722.3...

www.500eboard.co

 

[Falkon]

I have these in PDF format. They are difficult to find. Please let me know when you have downloaded them.

https://www.500eboard.co/misc/G320_owner_manual.pdf

https://www.500eboard.co/misc/G320_service_manual.pdf

https://www.500eboard.co/misc/G320_maint_manual.pdf

Good day Gerry.

Compliments of the season.

Please, could you re-activate these links to the G320 manuals so I could download them?

Regards,
Chidi

 

[Falkon]

I have these in PDF format. They are difficult to find. Please let me know when you have downloaded them.

https://www.500eboard.co/misc/G320_owner_manual.pdf

https://www.500eboard.co/misc/G320_service_manual.pdf

https://www.500eboard.co/misc/G320_maint_manual.pdf

Good day Gerry,

I hope you are doing great in the new year.

Could you please re-share these documents, I shall be so grateful to lay my hands on them.