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1998 W202 electronic key fob inop... and I'm away from home!

Duh_Vinci

E500E **Meister**
Member
Cheers all!

Spent some time searching the web, but all I'm finding is pre-facelift info... My car is 1998 C280 with the key in the attached picture.

Went grocery shopping for my parents after a shift ended at the hospital. Keeping my older folks at home! Came over, parked the car in their driveway, unloaded all the food, now, the key fob does nothing! Unfortunately, my other keyfob from this was lost by my ex long time ago...

Changed the batteries
Disconnected main battery for 30 min, reconnected.
Checked the fuses
Red LED is blinking
Took it apart - no lint, clean inside.

Does not lock/unlock, does nothing when key inserted in ignition...

I tried to see if I can actually see the IR light via camera in the phone, I can't seem to notice "action", but I also don't see any IR lights in my father's W211 (2008) - em I doing something wrong here?

Is there anything else I can check while I'm here?
Is there an option for me to "program/sync/re-sync" my original with the car in any way?
Can a dealer (if I take the key fob there tomorrow morning) be able to test it before ordering me a new one?

Thanks in advance for any guidance!

Regards,
D

i-RcCVkgS-XL.jpg
 
Any chance you have SDS? I'm not sure of troubleshooting steps with the EIS, but the EIS itself (ignition "socket") is another possible culprit.

Any codes via OBD-2?

:klink:
 
Never mind the scanner... Key inserted in ignition does nothing, so the old hand held does not communicate with the car since ignition is off... I'm going to take the fob apart again, and maybe clean it with electric parts cleaner and inspect the induction coil with magnifying glass...
 
Sadly, your EIS might have died. Either the key died, or the EIS. You want the key to die, because the EIS is a dealer-only job that is $1,000 unless you re-code the entire car via junkyard parts.

Mercedes won't sell you a new key unless you physically have the car at the dealer with matching documents. Mercedes takes their key security very seriously. Last time I had to buy a key, the parts guy went to the parking lot with me to check the VIN on the car, match that to the registration, and match the registration to my license. Then he ordered the key from the warehouse in Texas.

Also, the batteries in the key have nothing to do with the ignition unlocking and signaling its okay to crank the car. The batteries are for the actions of the locks and alarm.

If you can afford to let the car sit, buy an EIS checker. Fast Tester Key Lock Coil Check EZS Checker Immobiliser For Mercedes BMW VW AUDI | eBay

If you need the car asap, tow it to the dealer and let them do their thing.

Sorry man, these older smart keys are a terrible design that are prone to failure. Awesome when new, a curse when bad.
 
Ok, took it apart again, coil is good, all clean and interestingly, with my iphone camera, I can't see IR flashing, but with old windows/nokia phone I can see that IR, internal bluish color light is flashing with each and every press of the buttons.. So remote is alive I assume?

Still not finding any programming instructions for it for DIY on the web, only pre-98 with red/green indicators in the rear view mirrors, nothing for my car. I hope dealer can program it w/o the car being there just by VIN number?

Regards,
D
 
Thanks Harv, just ordered the tester. I can certainly let the car sit. And the fact that I can now see the IR light with the old phone, and red LED flashing, I have a feeling that maybe the EIS... God knows, I just want to hot wire this thing! It's in great condition, I've owned most of it's life, well maintained, but I would care NOT if I had to EIS in it at all and just some hot wired push button start. :stirthepot:

Oh well, my folks are happy I get to spend the eve with them, tomorrow morning paps would give me a ride to my house. C280 sits here for now...

Regards,
D
 
There is literally no way to get around the ignition system in these cars with EIS system and Smart Keys. There is reason why it was a story line in the newer Gone in 60 Seconds movie. Outside of a flatbed, trying to steal them is impossible.
 
There is literally no way to get around the ignition system in these cars with EIS system and Smart Keys. There is reason why it was a story line in the newer Gone in 60 Seconds movie. Outside of a flatbed, trying to steal them is impossible.
Oh yeah, that movie!!! I do remember! So dumb question, is EIS also responsible for lock/unlock doors remotely? Because nothing is responding in the car to it's remote. I can lock/unlock via the metal blade, but remote does nothing for the doors either.
 
Oh yeah, that movie!!! I do remember! So dumb question, is EIS also responsible for lock/unlock doors remotely? Because nothing is responding in the car to it's remote. I can lock/unlock via the metal blade, but remote does nothing for the doors either.

No. Which is good news that maybe the key just died. Last time I had an EIS die I *think* the unlock/lock was still able use the remote.
 
Dumb question but have you actually swapped the car battery or tried jump starting the car?


This has happened to me too many times. If the ignition doesnt turn, either a bad key or bad battery. Eis can go out but I havent seen it so often on a w202. Whats the mileage on the car?
 
Do you have a valet key? Itll start the car as well
Unfortunately the only key I have is what in the picture (has metal blade that I can use in the trunk to lock/unlock doors/trunk manually), but that is all I have left...
Dumb question but have you actually swapped the car battery or tried jump starting the car?


This has happened to me too many times. If the ignition doesnt turn, either a bad key or bad battery. Eis can go out but I havent seen it so often on a w202. Whats the mileage on the car?
No recent battery changes, its fully charged, about 1 year old battery. I know, I've heard some horror stories on jump starts, particularly with R129's but nope, not on this car. 142K.

I would like to move the car forward, but I can't even take it off the park to do so. I know where the shifter overried button on later 722.6 transmissions, but does this on has one too? It is non tiptronic...

Regards,
D
 
Sorry if this something you already know! But I friend of mine is a recovery specialist. In particular an automotive locksmith. And he is brought in by MB & BMW dealers for example to figure out key issues and transponder codes etc. A very smart guy.

In this case I would try and get an automotive locksmith who is familiar with these cars / systems and has the software to get into the car and even copy another key fob for it for example. They should be able to tell what part has failed or why the car is not responding to the fob fairly quickly.

Does your insurance have key coverage?

I would think if you want to move it, get a rig that can lift it up by the rear axle or put dollies under the wheels to get it loaded and dropped home.
 
I wouldnt do anything else before trying a jump start if you havent. I had batteries read correct voltage and car still needed a jump start.

There should be a place where you can stick a screwdriver to override the shifter. You will need to pop the wood off. Irs right underneath the bottom of the shifter gate.
 
Cheers all!

I stopped by the dealership this morning, they said they wouldn't even try to test the remote with out the car being there... I can't make it there again until next Mon if I need to. I did however stop by my old indy afterwards, he gladly took the key, and said the signal is very weak, and very sporadic. It read every 3-4 key presses. Unfortunately when it comes to new fobs for this cars, he couldn't do anything about, dealer item only. And apparently there is NO re-sync procedure as the early models, other than holding lock/unlock buttons for 5 sec (blinks at it should), but still does nothing.

To recovery specialists, I wish! I'm in a rural area, there is nothing I was able to find that deals with MB, few places I called said dealer only... Oh well...

Car battery is definitely good, and zero response from the car to the fob, no lock, unlock, turn ignition or else.

I'm hoping that it is the key, should have the tester by the weekend, just to double check. And will go ahead and order a new remote from the dealer. If the tester shows anything other than the key, I will have it towed to the dealer on Monday and just suck it up.

To the shifter - thanks for the video, that is all I'm finding as well, by mine is the earlier version with no shiftronic/tiptronic, took all the covers off, I just don't see any "doors/orifices" as the later models do.

i-JRLV6PK-L.jpg

I was able to re-arrange somethings in my parents garage, and pap's E350 can now get out just fine. As for my "dead" car, it will stay here for a while longer...

Thank you all for your time, appreciate it!

Regards,
D
 
As for the key fob I had just made some repairs to one of mine the other day.

If you get lucky the battery tab inside can get loose and need re-soldered. Similarly the little buttons inside can fail and /or the solder tabs become unstuck. I re-soldered loose ones on my fob too. But I also have some new switches (readily available for peanuts on ebay) coming so I have them to hand for the future.

I would carefully pull out the circuit board on your key and see what you find!
 
I had all these symptoms. Was able to lock and unlock but ignition wouldn't budge. Battery was weak in the trunk.

When my key died nothing worked. I wasnt even able to lock/unlock the car.

I was forced to leave it unlocked and use the valet key to start it till the new key came in.
 
D, just an FYI... the key purchased from the dealer does not need to be coded or otherwise require any dealer labor. They can hand you the key over the counter. Some dealers insist on charging a labor fee (possibly 0.5+ hours at $150-$180 per hour) to "make the new key work", which is a crock of stuff. YMMV, but I'd ask when ordering so you don't get any surprises at delivery. They also don't *need* to have the car there, they only need your driver's license and registration to prove ownership.

Also, there is a less-expensive "flat" key available as a spare. This lacks the remote lock/unlock function, but will start the car if you use the steel emergency key to open the car, and use the flat key in the EIS ignition. This assumes the EIS is good. Anyone who owns an EIS car (most 1998-up) should keep the flat/emergency key setup at home in a safe place, for a situation like this...

:shocking:
 
Also, there is a less-expensive "flat" key available as a spare. This lacks the remote lock/unlock function, but will start the car if you use the steel emergency key to open the car, and use the flat key in the EIS ignition. This assumes the EIS is good. Anyone who owns an EIS car (most 1998-up) should keep the flat/emergency key setup at home in a safe place, for a situation like this...

I go as far as having 3 keys. I keep one with me for use, one at home, and the 3rd key hidden inside the car. That way if I'm ever out and far away from home and the key dies, I go dig out the key hidden inside the car and use that. I've had one situation where I dropped my key and it broke, I would have been screwed with that spare key.
 
As for the key fob I had just made some repairs to one of mine the other day.

If you get lucky the battery tab inside can get loose and need re-soldered. Similarly the little buttons inside can fail and /or the solder tabs become unstuck. I re-soldered loose ones on my fob too. But I also have some new switches (readily available for peanuts on ebay) coming so I have them to hand for the future.

I would carefully pull out the circuit board on your key and see what you find!
That's what I was hoping for when I took the key apart last night. Very clean board, nothing seemed out of place. Read somewhere on UK forums that the induction coil can be off its axis, not mine... Even used pap's +3.25 glasses, nothing visually wrong with it. All the buttons click firmly, but something is obviously having "near death" experience on that fob board!
I had all these symptoms. Was able to lock and unlock but ignition wouldn't budge. Battery was weak in the trunk.

When my key died nothing worked. I wasnt even able to lock/unlock the car.

I was forced to leave it unlocked and use the valet key to start it till the new key came in.
I'm able to lock the car with the metal key blade, even roll the widows up and down but holding. As for the actual remote piece - as yours, car acts as if it does not exist.
D, just an FYI... the key purchased from the dealer does not need to be coded or otherwise require any dealer labor. They can hand you the key over the counter. Some dealers insist on charging a labor fee (possibly 0.5+ hours at $150-$180 per hour) to "make the new key work", which is a crock of stuff. YMMV, but I'd ask when ordering so you don't get any surprises at delivery. They also don't *need* to have the car there, they only need your driver's license and registration to prove ownership.

Also, there is a less-expensive "flat" key available as a spare. This lacks the remote lock/unlock function, but will start the car if you use the steel emergency key to open the car, and use the flat key in the EIS ignition. This assumes the EIS is good. Anyone who owns an EIS car (most 1998-up) should keep the flat/emergency key setup at home in a safe place, for a situation like this...

:shocking:
Thanks for the tip, appreciate it! I was looking at the book this morning in hopes of finding a re-set procedure for the key, and did find that flat key that should have came with the car, I never seen it, but this is from the car's manual book "Electronic Reserve Key" :

i-7hG5R62-XL.jpg

I'm going to stop by the dealership tomorrow after work if I finish early to see if they can order it, shouldn't be more than few hundred bucks I assume (cant find the part number for it). Even if it is the EIS issue (hope not), this is still a useful piece to have.

On the "hopeful" side, spoke to a friend on the phone today, also 1998 C280 (red sportline), he had very same issue about a month ago, went to the store, got out of the car, tried to lock via remote and nothing! No response to windows/locks/ignition, absolutely nothing. His wife brought a spare key from home, and car started as nothing ever happened. But 1st remote was completely dead, as mine and as @PJmak

Thanks again to all for your time, much appreciate it!

Regards,
D

P.S. I love this thing, it's been a great car car for many many years, with nearly no issues (just AC compressor), the rest just basic maintenance as any other car

38571331776_7b368d2e86_z.jpg
 
Emergency/Reserve key shown below. I believe the part numbers will be valid for your W202 but the dealer can confirm with your VIN prior to ordering. Cost should be under $200 for both pieces, IIRC:

W211_key_flat_sm.jpg
 
My hero!!! :thumbsup2: I'm guessing I would not be able to get it through Naperville, huh... Thanks for the info!!!

If you send a copy of everything your dealership requires to get a key locally, MB of Naperville should be able to fulfill it. You just won’t be able to do it without a phone call.


Robert
 
If you send a copy of everything your dealership requires to get a key locally, MB of Naperville should be able to fulfill it. You just won’t be able to do it without a phone call.


Robert
Thank you Robert! I din't see a phone number on the mboemparts site, but filled out the contact form with my personal info and the VIN, and hope for the best.

Regards,
D
 
I don’t think that will get you far. I’d call them on 630.537.0312 (option 3 for parts if it is a standard MB dealership ACD) and talk to a person. Get their fax number and, if you have previously ordered from them, reference a purchase you have made which would independently prove the address on the scan of the DL and registration (or title) for the car.

MB is very concerned about theft so you’ll have to go above and beyond to remove any doubt from someone who sits 1000mi away. It is easy for them to just say “No.”

Good luck!

Robert
 
MB is very concerned about theft so you’ll have to go above and beyond to remove any doubt from someone who sits 1000mi away. ...
Thanks Robert, unfortunately, for the very reasons you mentioned - has to be a local dealer, can't order keys from remote facility. So back to the local MB I go. Any pointers oh what can I say to save me some money at the local retail MB pricing? :spend:

Regards,
D
 
Fingers cross, it's a dead key. @Harv Amazingly simple tool the one you linked Fast Tester Key Lock Coil Check EZS Checker Immobiliser For Mercedes BMW VW AUDI | eBay arrived quickly, and based in the instructions, the light comes on as soon as the smart key inserted, then stays on, confirming that EIS is active.

@Ntrepid thanks again for the contact, appreciate it!

I did go to the dealer this morning. Good news, and annoying news... They "must" have the vehicle present to release the key to the customer, it is their policy and no way to over-ride it. That's annoying, considering I've brought the physical title, licence, inspection slip as well as DMV registration. On to the good news: The spare flat electronic key @gsxr kindly provided (thank you!) can be purchased and no car is needed to be present to accept the delivery of this wallet key. The parts guy was very nice, I don't want to give anyone hard time, and if that's the policy, so be it, not worth be stressing over it. So this little flatty 203-766-49-06-9999 is now ordered, will arrive tomorrow after 12, and the best part, they gave me a price break on it, matching MB of Naperville.

Once I make sure that car starts fine with this new key tomorrow, I will go ahead and order the full (updated) remote key with the blade, they also willing to match the 26% price break of Naperville on this set as well... 2 days turn around time (nice)!

Regards,
D
 
Nice. Glad that tool helped. Its a very nice thing to have in the toolbox.

I ordered one myself too - looks like a good diagnostic device to have to hand. And cheap at just over 3 bucks delivered in UK at link below

 
I ordered one myself too - looks like a good diagnostic device to have to hand. And cheap at just over 3 bucks delivered in UK at link below

Amazingly simple tool! As you said, good diagnostic device for such little money! Certainly put my search for the issue in the right direction!

UPDATE: It's alive!!!


Stopped by the dealership, picked up this little jewel of a key. 1 day turn around!. While it will not open any doors, it will indeed make a good use for emergency! Now I'm going to drive the car to the dealership and order the full version of the smart key with build in remote!

Thank you again to all for the input, my daily is back on the road! :bowdown:

Regards,
D
 
Let us know if you can get another smart key that will both unlock doors and start the engine. I need another key for the 99' CL.
Last I heard, the factory that built them is NLA.
 
Let us know if you can get another smart key that will both unlock doors and start the engine. I need another key for the 99' CL.
Last I heard, the factory that built them is NLA.
Indeed! Preliminary, they told me it is available, but its an upgraded fob with 204 part number, black and chrome casing... will update tomorrow.

Regards,
D
 
Let us know if you can get another smart key that will both unlock doors and start the engine. I need another key for the 99' CL.
Last I heard, the factory that built them is NLA.
Trae, the dealership ordered me a complete remote and a metal blade to go with with it (part numbers in the picture).

i-dSdnKwz-L.jpg

Very happy that they again matched the price with MB of Naperville. The set may even come in tomorrow. Ordered parts guys a lunch to be delivered for all the "good doing". It's good to have "friends" at the parts counter ;)

Will update as soon as the part arrives (and works)

Regards,
D
 
Emergency flat wallet "Mechanic" key

203-766-49-06-9999 $108.78


Remote "Smart" key (updated version)

204-905-11-04-9999 $142.08


Blade insert for Smart Key (updated version)

000-766-09-00 $51.75


Regards,
D
 
Nice. Im gonna order at some point just because Im down to one key.

I got a brand new complete key for 190 out the door at the dealer coz I knew someone working in the parts department :D
 
Duh_Vinci, did you also get the steel blade insert for the emergency/flat wallet "Mechanic" key?
 
Duh_Vinci, did you also get the steel blade insert for the emergency/flat wallet "Mechanic" key?
Dave, frankly, I forgot all bout that spare blade for emergency key. Remembered only after I got home today. So instead, and since it is just an emergency key, and I still have my original blade from original smart key, this is my new spare "key chain"

i-CR73dvf-L.jpg

Regards,
D
 
Ok so the key is in my possession...

i-GjmgnF7-X2.jpg

i-7x6Ggmx-X2.jpg

But not without some frustration. Knowing that the key comes pre-programmed, and they advised me that I have to be there with the car, I just went in to pick it up, and asked when they are ready to look at the car/vin as advised before...

"We have to program the key in the shop, that would be $80..."
"With all due respect, I'm just here to pick up the key, it is factory pre-programmed"
"It is our absolute policy, per Mercedes, the car must go through the shop before the keys are released to the customer"
"Do you mind explaining the reason for this? I have the car here, title, registration, DL, original key, mechanic key, all I want is just my key and I'll be on my way?"
"It is Mercedes policy, key can only be released with R/O"
"R/O - but there is nothing to repair, I just ordered a new/upgraded/spare key, not a Repair Request, it is paid for"
"I'm sorry, has to go through the shop"

Now I'm slowly starting to brew inside. :stirthepot:

"Fine, if that is the only way to get my key, for my car, whom do I need to see in service to have it done?"
"These ladies here can make an appointment for you"
"And appointment? You guys have called me today, advised that the keys are ready for pickup, and to bring the car, now appointment? Fine, thank you, I will do that..." and walking over back to service writer...

Service desk

"Hi, picking up the key? "
"Yes, I hope so"
"Ok, let's get your keys program"
"But the keys are already programmed, so what exactly are we doing in terms of programming?"
"Ohhh, really? Let me check..."

Anyway... For fu*k sake, really? The service writer was rather understanding when I explained to him how silly this all sounds to a customer, and there is really nothing to be done physically to the car, the key is paid for, it is here for pick up and it is programmed and that is it...
"Well, please, understand that MB is very proactive in terms of theft prevention..."

This is where I open a my large ziplock bag and lay in front of him:

Original Smart key
Mechanic key
Original key blade
Title
Registration
Inspection
Driver's license
Purchase Order "PAID"


And I point to the car that is inside the service drive in/check in that I just drove up... He smiles... "Give me a sec..." While he presses lock/unlock buttons on the new smart key. Proceeds to the car. Drives it off to the shop. Less than 5 min later, drives it back into the check-in area.

"Very nice car, one of the best kept W202 I've seen in years, you obviously take great care of it. You are all set"...

Now that I'm done with my little rant, I'm off for 4 days, I'm about to have a shot of something with my Dad and spend some evening time with my folks an have a nice family dinner.

Regards,
D
 
Email mb of usa about this procedure and see what they say. If they side with you, head back to the dealer and talk to the manager.
 
Email mb of usa about this procedure and see what they say. If they side with you, head back to the dealer and talk to the manager.
They ended up not charging me for the "programming", receipt shows $0.00 It was frustrating to me just seat there and pretend that I'm ok to just "eat" $80 charge for basically NOTHING. I tend to process information on some form of a logical manner, and non of their explanations for such "process" of releasing the keys just does not make any sense to me... Just a way for the shop to make money.

End result, I have the key, no extra charge, great price for the keys and the metal fob, 1 day turn around, the car runs and drives...

Regards,
D
 
$80 for nothing is infuriating in and if itself, but ignorant, rubber-stamp, bot responses are just disarmingly maddening, especially since at the end they did not charge you, so why the whole ride of aggravation and animosity? Bots...
 
Heh. Glad to hear you saved the $80. Most dealers look at this as "free money" because 99.44% of people do not know the key is pre-programmed and almost never needs any service tech to make it work. If you don't know this, you cringe and fork over the $80 (or worse).

Disclaimer: There's a tiny, like 0.000001%, possibility in extreme corner cases that the techs might need to get the SDS involved. IIRC this would only be if all the existing key tracks were already consumed in the EIS, or something along those lines. Beyond rare, in the ballpark of getting hit by lightning while holding a winning Powerball ticket. I can't recall the details offhand...

:lightning:
 
Heh. Glad to hear you saved the $80. Most dealers look at this as "free money" because 99.44% of people do not know the key is pre-programmed and almost never needs any service tech to make it work. If you don't know this, you cringe and fork over the $80 (or worse).

Disclaimer: There's a tiny, like 0.000001%, possibility in extreme corner cases that the techs might need to get the SDS involved. IIRC this would only be if all the existing key tracks were already consumed in the EIS, or something along those lines. Beyond rare, in the ballpark of getting hit by lightning while holding a winning Powerball ticket. I can't recall the details offhand...

:lightning:
Dave, I don't mind paying for legitimate services rendered, but this to me is exactly "free money"!

I've heard about deleting existing tracks for multiple prior orders as you describe, almost along the way of "software licence" how it's granted for 2 or 3 computers, then one has to be deactivated before installing onto the next unit. And with that said, once the dealer runs a VIN, wouldn't national database tell them that in my case, absolutely no prior smart key orders were made for this car? :detective: So really, there was no need for any of this BS... But wait... "free money"

Beautiful rainy morning, I'm off until Tuesday, life is good! Stay well and safe everyone!

Regards,
D
 
I've heard about deleting existing tracks for multiple prior orders as you describe, almost along the way of "software licence" how it's granted for 2 or 3 computers, then one has to be deactivated before installing onto the next unit. And with that said, once the dealer runs a VIN, wouldn't national database tell them that in my case, absolutely no prior smart key orders were made for this car? :detective: So really, there was no need for any of this BS... But wait... "free money"

Its been a few years since I've ordered keys, but I think there is something like 9 "tracks" and each have 3 slots. Once the track and slot has been filled, you can't really delete it.
 
C'mon, spill the beans... which local Benz store tried to pork you out of your dough?

I’ve guessing MB of Tysons Corner.

I took them my ML55 to have the radiator replaced as it was delaminating (front face pulling away from the middle) at the corner. They replaced it and the next day I drove to my cousin’s in Delaware. On the way back down I95 with my family in the car, I heard this scraping noise followed quickly by a loud thump. I looked in the side view mirror to see the tray mounted below the engine disappearing in the distance.

Come Monday, I called my Service advisor who had seen me on Friday at pickup and explained what had happened. He called me back and quoted me like $300 to replace it. I asked him if when the radiator was replaced did they have to remove that tray. He confirmed they did. I then said that the $300 will be coming out of their overhead as I’m not paying for lack of attention to detail in service. I’m also glad it was not an oil pan or plug, torque converter plug, or spark plug that they had done the service on.

End of story.


Robert
 

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