200,000 mile service 1994 E500

[gsxr]

If you are concerned about keeping the original trans as "matching numbers", yes, you will need to ship it to Sun Valley (or BlueRidge) and have them rebuild the original.

Normally, they send out what they have on the shelf, you send in your core, and the numbers will no longer match the EPC datacard. Half of my 036's have replacement trans with numbers that don't match, the other half are originals...

 

[gerryvz]

Sun Valley will be happy to rebuild your transmission, to keep it numbers matching. Or they will rebuild one of their cores they keep in stock, and then you send in your failed transmission after they ship the rebuild to you, using the same container.

They do not generally keep a stock of "rebuilts" on hand. Rather, they take an order, perform a rebuild on one of their cores, and then ship it. This generally takes about 7-10 days from receipt of payment, to transmission being shipped. Expect 3-4 days shipping transit time once the rebuild leaves their loading dock, probably 1-2 days more if you are on or near the East Coast.

I found it to be a very smooth operation. And I just called the local freight forwarder when I was ready to have the packed transmission picked up at my house. They were at my door within 6 hours to pick it up.

Hope this helps

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[ltpowers]

While I wait for the S V transmission to come from CA, I have to continue with the 200K service. I need to do the front brakes for sure. Last time I changed pads only (MB), now I need to replace rotors and pads. Research here shows it is best to use MB rotors and Akebono euro ceramic pads. Is this correct? I thought ceramic pads were tough on rotors, but the info I read says the opposite. Rock Auto[TABLE="class: main, width: 716"][TR="class: part0, bgcolor: #F0F0F0"][TD="class: alternate0"][TABLE="class: parts, width: 623"][TR][TD="class: left"][TABLE="class: layout, width: 557"][TR][TD="class: partlayout"]AKEBONO Part # EUR561 Euro Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad w/ Electronic Wear Sensor; Includes electronic wear sensor.

Front; Includes electronic wear sensor[/TD][/TR][/TABLE][/TD][TD="class: right, align: right"]

[/TD][/TR][/TABLE][/TD][TD="class: center leftrightborder boldfont priceonly alternate0, align: center"]$49.89[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]
Right fog lamp housing and lens has been broken for a while. Is this available only from MB or is there another source?

 

[gsxr]

Akebono ceramics are a good choice if you want reduced brake dust. If you don't care about dust, it's hard to go wrong with OE MB pads.

The fog lamps are available as Bosch aftermarket, and may be cheaper than OE. Last I checked, Amazon had the best price at $154 each. Replace them as a pair... you won't like having one shiny new one and the other pitted & faded. If the left side is still intact, you could probably sell it here and recoup a few bucks:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-305120001-Fog-Light-Assembly/dp/B001CO6HVE/
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-305120002-Fog-Light-Assembly/dp/B001CNZHSY/

 

[ltpowers]

I will order the rotors from Gainsville MB and check the fog light cost there too.

Another long time problem is the antenna unit. The car came with a phone installed so when the key to on the antenna goes up, or used to before the whip and top of the threaded rod got ripped off in a car wash. Even with the radio off the antenna goes up (for the long gone phone). I need a new unit because there are on threads to screw the mast nut into. And is it possible to rewire it to only be up when the radio is on? Otherwise it will get ripped out again ( I know it will happen again because I've been married for 34 years).

 

[Klink]

I will order the rotors from Gainsville MB and check the fog light cost there too.

Another long time problem is the antenna unit. And is it possible to rewire it to only be up when the radio is on? Otherwise it will get ripped out again ( I know it will happen again because I've been married for 34 years).

Yes. The easiest thing to do, and advisable anyway to avoid battery draws, etc. is to disconnect the telephone amplifier unit. I'm not remembering where it is right now, though the left rear inner fender area / trunk well is seeming correct right now. It will be a black metallic box with a rectangular shape, about 10" X 3" X 2" The main plug connector will likely be secured with 2 barrel type slotted thumb screws. Unplug it, insulate and secure the harness in a "rattle proof" manner. If that doesn't work, bump this topic again.

 

[gerryvz]

I just removed my entire phone from the trunk and center console shortly after buying my car. (the mirror control panel above the windshield is still there). My phone install in the driver's side trunk well was replaced long ago with a custom-fabricated bracket for my nitrous-oxide bottle.

 

[Klink]

I just removed my entire phone from the trunk and center console shortly after buying my car. (the mirror control panel above the windshield is still there). My phone install in the driver's side trunk well was replaced long ago with a custom-fabricated bracket for my nitrous-oxide bottle.

Greetings Congregation! Let Us Spray...

 

[ltpowers]

I never noticed a black box in the trunk, so I will look tomorrow.
Because the top of the antenna post is snapped of do I need a whole assembly? Or does anyone have an old unit with a bad motor that I could have the post off of?

 

[gsxr]

I never noticed a black box in the trunk, so I will look tomorrow.
Because the top of the antenna post is snapped of do I need a whole assembly? Or does anyone have an old unit with a bad motor that I could have the post off of?

New Hirschmann masts are ~$60 and if your motor assembly is original, it's on borrowed time. Entire new OEM Hirschmann antennas are ~$160 from Amazon. Think carefully before shelling out for just the mast.

Also... the grommets for the threaded-top antennas are $$$. Lots of photos here, of both the antennas and grommets... should be some threads with more info if needed:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stereo/Hirschmann/

 

[gerryvz]

Did somebody just say "black box" ?

[youtube]18N2k1TBBRE[/youtube]

 

[vatc5637]

Akebono ceramics are a good choice if you want reduced brake dust. If you don't care about dust, it's hard to go wrong with OE MB pads.

The fog lamps are available as Bosch aftermarket, and may be cheaper than OE. Last I checked, Amazon had the best price at $154 each. Replace them as a pair... you won't like having one shiny new one and the other pitted & faded. If the left side is still intact, you could probably sell it here and recoup a few bucks:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-305120001-Fog-Light-Assembly/dp/B001CO6HVE/
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-305120002-Fog-Light-Assembly/dp/B001CNZHSY/

IIRC, it is possible to purchase just the lenses/covers (pn #130 562 12 47(L); 130 562 12 48(R)) separately for about $100 each.

 

[gerryvz]

IIRC, it is possible to purchase just the lenses/covers (pn #130 562 12 47(L); 130 562 12 48(R)) separately for about $100 each.

Hi Terry,

LOL yes IIRC GSXR and I already had that debate !!

I also said same; lenses are available for cheaper than the entire lamp assemblies. GSXR said that for just a small increment more, that you could (and may as well) just get the entire lamp.

Personally, I'd just go with the lenses as I really have yet to see a lamp assembly wear out, but to each their own

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[vatc5637]

Hi Terry,

LOL yes IIRC GSXR and I already had that debate !!

I also said same; lenses are available for cheaper than the entire lamp assemblies. GSXR said that for just a small increment more, that you could (and may as well) just get the entire lamp.

Personally, I'd just go with the lenses as I really have yet to see a lamp assembly wear out, but to each their own

Cheers,
Gerry

LOL! Sorry I missed that slapfest!

Seriously, I think that I can count on one hand the number of times I have used my foglights, especially now that I installed the Euro lenses w/ daytime running lights. But we don't get much fog here in central VA either.

 

[gerryvz]

LOL! Sorry I missed that slapfest!

http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1299&p=7865&viewfull=1#post7865

http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6198&p=75599&viewfull=1#post75599

 

[Klink]

Right fog lamp housing and lens has been broken for a while. Is this available only from MB or is there another source?

I would have mentioned the lenses, but he said that the housing is broken, too. On that note, if you replace the right light, and the left now looks bad by comparison, you can replace only the lens on the left if it is significantly less $$ and the internals of the left lamp aren't corroded (new lenses don't help the appearance if the lamp internals are brown).

 

[ltpowers]

The whole unit broke off from its attachment points so I will buy the complete assembly. The fog lamps are not used much, but can't be driving around with an empty hole in the bumper where the light belongs.

 

[gsxr]

I would have mentioned the lenses, but he said that the housing is broken, too. On that note, if you replace the right light, and the left now looks bad by comparison, you can replace only the lens on the left if it is significantly less $$ and the internals of the left lamp aren't corroded (new lenses don't help the appearance if the lamp internals are brown).

Klink gets a gold star for actually reading carefully:

Yes, you can replace the lenses, IF the housing is completely intact. But if you already gotta buy one complete lamp plus another lens... I'd just spring for the extra $$ and replace both lamps, then sell the old/used stuff for parts. I own a couple of 500E's and I've seen several where the housing had internal parts broken, which was not discovered until after the lamp was removed and it had parts rattling around inside.

BTW: I use the fogs as DRL's, so they are on all the time, day & night:

 

[ltpowers]

I picked up $300 of parts: hoses, seals, bolts, mounts etc. installed what I could while I wait for the Transmission to arrive (it hasn't left SV yet).
I pressed in new shifter bushings so the rod will be tight. Also replaced a bad tranny hose. It was so stiff it broke in two pieces when I tried to flex it.
Replaced the o rings for the oil level sensor.
Blew out the cooler and found no debris.
Also changed the oil filter but my new MB one has different # than the old filter. Old filter 011 184 91 25.. New filter 000 180 26 09.. new filter is shorter than the old one. Can someone tell me which is correct?

 

[clarkz71]

Current box with kit part #, and filter with it's number for the M119

That filter you have 000 180 26 09 is for M112/M113 and M272/M273

DO NOT USE IT.

.

 

[ltpowers]

Thanks. It didn't look right, so I asked. Any thoughts on aftermarket filters?

 

[ltpowers]

I just found this from here.
[TABLE="class: cms_table_grid, width: 1000, align: left"][TR][TD]Hengst[/TD][TD]D25E153H
E153H
E153HD25[/TD][TD][/TD][TD]Highly recommended for M119 applications[/TD][TD]Attachment 13927[/TD][TD][/TD][/TR][TR][TD]Knecht[/TD][TD]OX92
OX92D[/TD][TD][/TD][TD]Highly recommended for M119 applications[/TD][TD][/TD][TD][/TD][/TR][TR][TD]Mahle[/TD][TD]07493885[/TD][TD][/TD][TD]Highly recommended for M119 applications[/TD][TD]Attachment 13926[/TD][TD][/TD][/TR][TR][TD]Mann Filter[/TD][TD]H829/1x[/TD][TD][/TD][TD]Highly recommended for M119 applications.[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

 

[ltpowers]

Right inner fender plastic panel is broken, cracked in a few places... Does it come from MB?

 

[Trae]

Hengst is a great filter, followed by Mann.

Here is Gerry's parts quality list:

http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1919

 

[clarkz71]

Thanks. It didn't look right, so I asked. Any thoughts on aftermarket filters?

Yes, OE Mercedes, Lionel sells them for around $11, free shipping


.

I just found this from here.
[TABLE="class: cms_table_grid, width: 1000, align: left"][TR][TD]Hengst
[/TD][TD]D25E153H
E153H
E153HD25
[/TD][TD][/TD][TD]Highly recommended for M119 applications
[/TD][TD]Attachment 13927
[/TD][TD][/TD][/TR][TR][TD]Knecht
[/TD][TD]OX92
OX92D
[/TD][TD][/TD][TD]Highly recommended for M119 applications
[/TD][TD][/TD][TD][/TD][/TR][TR][TD]Mahle
[/TD][TD]07493885
[/TD][TD][/TD][TD]Highly recommended for M119 applications
[/TD][TD]Attachment 13926
[/TD][TD][/TD][/TR][TR][TD]Mann Filter
[/TD][TD]H829/1x
[/TD][TD][/TD][TD]Highly recommended for M119 applications.
[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

Correction on that list, order of quality from what I've seen

First choice......., Knecht / Mahle is OE Benz

2) Mann

3) Hengst

 

[clarkz71]

Hengst is a great filter, followed by Mann.

Here is Gerry's parts quality list:

http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1919

Hengst is #3 after Knecht/Mahle and Mann

Gerry's list is in alphabetical order, not quality order

 

[gsxr]

Right inner fender plastic panel is broken, cracked in a few places... Does it come from MB?

Yes, the fender liner is an MB-only part. If your car has been driven in snow, use extreme car when removing the plastic nuts that hold the panel in place... some may snap off. I'd spray liberally with penetrant before loosening them. You'll find an incredible amount of debris hiding when you remove them, use a vacuum, scraper, and compressed air to clean the area behind the wheels.

There is supposed to be a flap for the fog light access, this is often snapped off, as in the photo below. Remove the liner(s) to enable access to your fog light(s). This is another item where you may want to replace both at the same time...

 

[Trae]

Go with what Clark said on quality.

 

[gerryvz]

Any of the above mentioned filters are of fine quality. I prefer OE, Mahle/Knecht and Hengst over Mann, however. But I am happy to use Mann filters and have used them in all of my cars over the years.

Some years back Mann changed the design of their M104 filters to a "glued" design and I have never liked that. Also on the M117 filters from Mann that I've used, they have lacked the perforated paper wrapping around the filter element that I have seen with the Hengst and Mahle/Knecht filters for that engine. I also have preferred the metal loops that the Mahle/Knecht and Hengst filters have for lifting the filters out of the canister.

Just my opinions - like I said, all of the four brands + OE MB are excellent and recommended.

Clark is correct - my list is in alphabetical order, not order of preference. Like oil and ATF, a lot of what brand is used, is up to personal preference.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[ltpowers]

Today I looked at the car and I had a small puddle of oil below it.
There is a hose that appears to be weeping oil. It is the long hose that crosses in front of the oil pan and ends at a small steel line on the right side. the other end has a banjo fitting attached to the power steering pump(?). The last picture I didn't want to post as it shows an oily mess looking up past the compressor. Can this hose be weeping? Is this for the rear suspension?

 

[gerryvz]

It's not likely at all that it's the hose leaking ... rather, oil/fluid is just dripping onto that hose and collecting there, looking like the hose itself is leaking.

Could be one of several things leaking from the front of the engine there:

• Cam solenoid
• Power steering pump/hose
• front cover
• front crank seal
• hydraulic fluid (SLS)

First, you need to determine whether it's motor oil or power steering fluid.

Second, you need to get a couple of cans of brake cleaner and thoroughly clean up the area (spray and wipe). Cleaning this area will give you a MUCH better idea of where things are leaking from.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[ltpowers]

It is not motor oil. Just seems like a long way to run past 2 of the hose support clamps. Just another surprise as i wait for motor mounts and transmission to arrive.

 

[ltpowers]

False Alarm. I cleaned up everything and found the problem. The fluid was engine oil, when I replaced the o rings for the oil level sensor wire through the block I removed the oil pressure sender (new one on order) to have more room. Because I'm replacing it I just screwed it in loosely to keep everything clean. That's where the oil was coming from. It dripped onto the transmission steel tubing then went along the tube and then dripped into the hose. Everything looks good this morning.

 

[gerryvz]

Thanks for the follow up. Keep a good eye on it for a few more days/weeks just to be sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ltpowers]

Ok, my 200,000 mile service is ending with a lot accomplished with the help of all of you. You saved me a ton of money with your parts suppliers and advice as to what good parts were out there and when to stay with Mercedes parts.
The car was fun to drive today, as it should be. Let's see it has... both new wire harnesses, new plugs, rotors, caps, back plates, spark plug wires, metal oil tubes and upper timing chain guides, camshaft cover gaskets, oil pressure sender, new o rings on the wire through the block for the oil level sensor, new transmission hoses, new SV rebuilt transmission, new linkage bushings, nss, flex disk, exhaust hangers, antenna, front brakes and rotors, and more stuff I have forgotten about. All this was possible only with the terrific knowledge you guys are willing to share.
As I said in the other post, tomorrow I'm bringing the car back to Virginia for the wife and then I will be in the San Diego area next week. I plan to drive to LA and check out the seat covers at German Auto Tops, and maybe GAHH.
There is always more to do on the car so I will be logging in and planning the next job.

 

[8899]

Ok, my 200,000 mile service is ending with a lot accomplished with the help of all of you. You saved me a ton of money with your parts suppliers and advice as to what good parts were out there and when to stay with Mercedes parts.
The car was fun to drive today, as it should be. Let's see it has... both new wire harnesses, new plugs, rotors, caps, back plates, spark plug wires, metal oil tubes and upper timing chain guides, camshaft cover gaskets, oil pressure sender, new o rings on the wire through the block for the oil level sensor, new transmission hoses, new SV rebuilt transmission, new linkage bushings, nss, flex disk, exhaust hangers, antenna, front brakes and rotors, and more stuff I have forgotten about. All this was possible only with the terrific knowledge you guys are willing to share.
As I said in the other post, tomorrow I'm bringing the car back to Virginia for the wife and then I will be in the San Diego area next week. I plan to drive to LA and check out the seat covers at German Auto Tops, and maybe GAHH.
There is always more to do on the car so I will be logging in and planning the next job.

Congrats! Nice work....hope to run into you, your wife and the E500 sometime again in the future...perhaps Middleburg.

 

[samiam44]

Awesome!

I did a similar thing to my car where I went from tip to toe underneath and addressed EVERYTHING! It was lots of little things, but it's quite, tight and nice on new motor mounts. I did the starter (much faster cranking speed now), upgraded 150A alternator, fix aux trans oil cooler fan, water pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, fan clutch, fan shroud, driveshaft flex discs, rear diff re-sealing, resealing steering box, oil tubes on the passenger bank, rear wheel bearing, MM's all fluids new, added trans pan magnet, hydraulic hose, al hose supporting clamps(Adel), etc etc etc etc.