AC Condenser - which one does fit?

[gcstein]

For what it's worth, I replaced mine a couple of years ago and it's a real PITA, with a lot of very fine clearances -- you don't want to have to repeat it. If you get used, have it checked out at a radiator shop. I put in a new Mercedes unit and recommend you do too.

Hope it helps -- Greg

 

[asultan]

Resurrecting this thread as this is now the second “oem” condenser i’ve received that’s much different from my original.

Granted I have a 6-Cyl car but the question remains…

Are parallel flow condensers better than serpentine condensers? Is there a reason the Aftermarket manufacturers would change from Serpentine style to the parallel flow system? Photos of the ACM and my original unit below.

Both the Nissens, AND now the ACM I ordered are Parallel flow condensers, with the nissens cooling fins being even thinner than the ACM.

P/N: 1248301970-A-INT

 

[gsxr]

AFAIK, the parallel flow design is supposed to be better / more efficient / whatever, vs the old 'serpentine' flow path. I've not heard of any detailed experiences on a 80's/90's vintage Mercedes, but I am curious if there would be a noticeable improvement in performance (likely at idle or low speeds).

@jhodg5ck ? You ever mess with these?

 

[Bogeyman]

As I understand it, the parallel flow units were introduced when they went away from R12 freon as the new r134 is not as efficient.

 

[asultan]

As I understand it, the parallel flow units were introduced when they went away from R12 freon as the new r134 is not as efficient.

this explains a lot THANK YOU!!

 

[nocfn]

I will vouch for the R134A in a parallel flow for R12 refrigerant will keep you cool, it will not keep you cold. It is not efficient in that type of flow in that diameter of piping. See any w126 that runs R134 - its great here in Houston on temps below 87 - we have not been below 103 high for 3 weeks. (ok maybe 101) You get the idea.... This is why I drive the E500 in July-December time frame.

 

[gsxr]

Yeah - if you live in a hot climate, and have a car that was originally R-12... don't convert to R-134a!! And if the car was already converted, either switch back to R-12 (very expensive) or use an alternative blend that is much more affordable like EnviroSafe, which is compatible with the PAG oils. The performance should be noticeably better vs R-134a.

The factory R-134a systems are quite good when functioning properly, including all USA-spec W124+M119 combinations, and all W210. On the W124 this also means confirming the main air flap vacuum pods are good, because those are required for 100% recirculated air. Otherwise you'll get 100-110°F+ ambient air leaking in, and the system will struggle to cool no matter what refrigerant you use.

:

 

[asultan]

Yeah - if you live in a hot climate, and have a car that was originally R-12... don't convert to R-134a!! And if the car was already converted, either switch back to R-12 (very expensive) or use an alternative blend that is much more affordable like EnviroSafe, which is compatible with the PAG oils. The performance should be noticeably better vs R-134a.

The factory R-134a systems are quite good when functioning properly, including all USA-spec W124+M119 combinations, and all W210. On the W124 this also means confirming the main air flap vacuum pods are good, because those are required for 100% recirculated air. Otherwise you'll get 100-110°F+ ambient air leaking in, and the system will struggle to cool no matter what refrigerant you use.

:View attachment 171941

Good to know, thanks all — I don’t think I have it in me this summer to do all the ACD+Factory pods this summer but next or this winter for sure, I have a had a mind numbing journey with this mini refresh I’m doing again due to a lack of EDIT: WELL fitting parts, or my own part number mistakes lol. My system was converted to 134 likely in the early 2000s so i’m gonna keep running with that!

 

[sghm3]

Is there any Condenser available today, that fits like the original ?