Broken bolt extractror-need recommendation

[mistermiata]

Hi Guys,

I broke the head off of a rusted bolt I was removing. I need a recommendation for a extractor kit. So many on Amazon, I'm not sure which one to get. I'm assuming I need to drill into the remainder of the bolt, and then use a left hand drill bit to extract the remnant of the bolt.

Thanks!!

 

[gsxr]

I generally like Irwin-Hanson products. Do you have good access to the bolt, to use a drill on it? Be careful to drill right in the center, and straight in, so you don't mangle the threads.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=irwin+hanson+extractor

 

[mistermiata]

Thanks Dave! Yes, luckily easy access, right on top of the motor. This is for my Land Rover Disco.....I'm replacing fuel injector seals, and the 2 of the bolts on the drivers side that hold the fuel rail broke. I got smart for the passenger side and sprayed them with PB Blaster and was able to ease them out without a problem.

 

[nocfn]

I used a set from craftsman on my c126 door strikers and euro bumpers. One small one broke and they replaced whole kit the same day.

 

[Stevester 500E]

I used a small brass bit to pilot hole, regardless.
I can't say it enough, pilot drill first.

I find it most important to pilot drill than to what extractor tool to use-although that is important too.

 

[nocfn]

Agree with that, I should of added that, I did the pilot hole after I broke a bit, and that made quick work of it, and more precision

 

[7delta]

Left handed drill bits can come in handy during these scenarios. Some times they'll catch and back out the broken bolt. Obviously center punch and choose size accordingly.

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[gerryvz]

Left handed drill bits can come in handy during these scenarios. Some times they'll catch and back out the broken bolt. Obviously center punch and choose size accordingly.

+1 on this technique, if/when appropriate. Soaking with PB Blaster beforehand (overnight preferable) is a great idea !!

 

[daantjie]

Also try some localized heat like with a propane torch. Let cool and try then. Sometimes takes a few heating and cooling cycles.

 

[mistermiata]

I tried a left handed drill bit to no avail. Ended up drilling out the bolt and helicoiling. Worked a charm!

 

[7delta]

I tried a left handed drill bit to no avail. Ended up drilling out the bolt and helicoiling. Worked a charm!

Just out of curiosity... was the bolt a dissimilar metal than what it was threaded in to?

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[mistermiata]

Good question. It was a steel bolt, pretty sure it was stuck in an aluminum casting. It was on my Land Rover.

 

[samiam44]

For reference... I always like to give a good hammer blow. The "upset" seems to reduce broken bolts significantly.


Did this on the M119 intake I pulled recently- no broken or stripped bolts. Started doing it after a few 928 water pump bolts breaking. A more seasoned mechanic chastised me for not doing!


Michael

 

[7delta]

+1. Combined with some sort of penitrating oil and, if possible/ needed , as mentioned above, some localized heating will in most cases allow for removal of said fastener.
Dissimilar metals can be a PITA. Particularly SS and Aluminum. I highly recommend some sort of antisieze, IF allowed in the given application/ circumstance.

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