C140 M119.971 ASR LIGHT

[Yrbbi]

Hello,

I have issues with ETA or maybe with EGAS module?

Little background about the car, when I got it, it had much issues with idle and handling gas pedal.
I repaired wiring harness for throttle body, switched spark plugs, replaced gaskets and rubber parts near throttle body also i replaced brake light switch.
I had an issue with throttle body shown in the following video:

I emailed Victor from Restoreyourmercedes.com and he said to swap wires on throttle bodys motor and check the small cover over potentiometer.
I did both and now I still receive ASR light, but the response to gas pedal is way better also throttle body doesnt create so loud noise / harmful moves when switching ignition on.
The situation now is recorded to following videos:

Is the issue still at throttle body, EGAS module or somewhere else?

If I use blinker to read codes from 38-pin connector I get this from Socket 7

3 Right EA/CC/ISC actuator (left cylinder bank) (M16/1)

EXTRA QUESTION:
Is it possible to convert throttle body to work 100% manually, with no motors inside? Without getting limp home mode

 

[Yrbbi]

Yesterday I used blinker again to read codes and I received following errors:

Socket 4 -
4 Voltage at mass air sensor with hot wire circuit. Open or short circuit.
13 Intake air temperature sensor, open or short circuit.
24 Left adjustable camshaft timing solenoid (Y49/1), open or short circuit
27 Injectors, open or short circuit.

Socket 6 -
30 ASR only CAN date bus to EA/CC/ISC control module, interrupted
40 Model 140 SPS P-valve

Socket 7 -
3 Right EA/CC/ISC actuator (left cylinder bank) (M16/1)

Socket 17 -
6 Camshaft position sensor faulty

Car wasn't running, only ignition on.

Also I tried to remove EGAS-module and it didnt have any effect.

 

[gsxr]

Clear all those codes, then drive the car, and see which codes return.

No, you cannot convert to "manual" throttle body and still have ASR work.

 

[Yrbbi]

Due to our snow situation I cant go out and drive this car yet. I can't even keep engine running for too long because air ventilation is so poor in my "garage".

So I'll try that in few weeks when I get back to the car hopefully with my freshly bought "perfectly working" E-Gas module from Ebay.

I'm pretty sure now that E-Gas is broken, because previous owner drove ~30km with short circuited ETA wires and this has exactly the same symptoms as shown in following video:

 

[Yrbbi]

Now I tested new Egas-module, ETA seems to work perfectly fine now, no ASR light.
Cruise works also, but I am having issues with high rpm.

Idle rpm is ~1500, checked many vacuum hoses for leaks, couldn't find any leaks. Engine is also running very rich, transmission in P it allows to rev up, also driving with force gears (B-2-3) it allows to rev somehow. But when driving with D kickdown works only 2->1 and barely revs over ~2k rpm while driving normally.

Having only following DTCs after test drive

Socket 6 -
7 - left front axle VSS valves, illogical
40 Model 140 SPS P-valve

Socket 17 -
6 Camshaft position sensor faulty.

Tested two camsaft sensors, still getting same error?

Fixed P-valve, it didnt have cables attached before, now it has and I tested and confirmed the valve to be fully functioning.

Inside MAF another hotwire(?) is cut, I tested unplugging maf, no effect.
Also back in the days when this was in previous owner, they have cut lambda wires and connected them with screw terminal, so I am not quite sure are they connected like they should be. (Can o2 sensor be tested somehow?)


And weird part here is that when I remove vacuum line going to EZL, idle goes to ~600rpm and seems to work slightly better, is this normal?