400E E420 ASR Throttle body rebuilding in Canada?

[Sasha124]

Hello !!! I have 1995 E420 WDBEA34EXSC263431 with ASR, no warning lights at all, idling smooth, responses on pushing gas just fine! But when i drive it around 80km/h (50ml/h) and up it start loosing power, max i can reach 110km/h(70ml/h) and to do that I should press my gas very very gently, if i do quick or floor it, tranny down shit to 3rd , rpm stuck in 3000 and car loosing speed, you should release gas, so tranny shift to 4th and, rpm drops to 2000 and than you can drive ...

Long story short my mechanics said my ASR throttle body 000 141 94 25 not good ... his scanner shows air leak or something there, rubber hose is bad to maf, but he wants me to buy new throttle body.

one more time, idling, on Parking car works perfect, response on gas to, no check engine or asr light.... does any one know in Canada ( i am in Toronto) guys who can rebuild that throttle body? Thank you so much!!!

 

[gsxr]

Based on your description, the throttle body (ETA) is NOT the problem. I'd start by eliminating all vacuum leaks - check all the rubber hoses on the intake manifold, and to the ETA, and all other vacuum hoses. There is no hose to the MAF. If the ETA is faulty on a vehicle with ASR, the normal symptom is limp mode - warning light on, and no response to the first half of accelerator pedal travel. Your ETA is original though, and a rebuild wouldn't hurt, but it also won't fix the problem you describe.

Wild guessing from your symptoms, which sound like lack of power under load, is a fuel supply issue (bad fuel pumps). Or possibly plugged catalysts. Need a remote fuel pressure gauge that can be viewed while driving, if you don't want to just buy a new pump... your VIN indicates a late build car with single fuel pump. Could also be a plugged tank strainer, if the pump is good, but fuel pressure drops when you accelerate.

BTW, welcome to the forum!

 

[Sasha124]

Based on your description, the throttle body (ETA) is NOT the problem. I'd start by eliminating all vacuum leaks - check all the rubber hoses on the intake manifold, and to the ETA, and all other vacuum hoses. There is no hose to the MAF. If the ETA is faulty on a vehicle with ASR, the normal symptom is limp mode - warning light on, and no response to the first half of accelerator pedal travel. Your ETA is original though, and a rebuild wouldn't hurt, but it also won't fix the problem you describe.

Wild guessing from your symptoms, which sound like lack of power under load, is a fuel supply issue (bad fuel pumps). Or possibly plugged catalysts. Need a remote fuel pressure gauge that can be viewed while driving, if you don't want to just buy a new pump... your VIN indicates a late build car with single fuel pump. Could also be a plugged tank strainer, if the pump is good, but fuel pressure drops when you accelerate.

BTW, welcome to the forum!

WOW!!! Thank you so much Sir!!! I found in ebay used ETA 000 141 89 25 I believe its updated one 2001/01 , for 200$ from good seller... should i buy? And thank you so much for all your advice, i am agree with you! 94-95 Mercedes Benz W140 S500 S420 R129 SL500 OEM Throttle Body Actuator Valve | eBay

 

[gsxr]

That ETA will have a longer cable, but it will fit. However as described above, I'm 99.44% certain your mechanic is wrong. Replacing the ETA will lighten your wallet but likely have zero effect on your power-loss problems. There is also NO guarantee a late-datecode ETA is good... the late datecode means the wire insulation isn't falling apart, but internal components can still be worn or faulty.

You can also buy a hand-held blink code reader, and do some of your own diagnostics. There are 6 powertrain computers and codes are available from all of them. The CEL only illuminates for emissions-related faults, so don't think there are no codes, just because the CEL is off. Everything you need to know is in the Sticky threads at the De-Coding subforum, link below:

De-Coding

Information pertaining to diagnostic codes, how to obtain and dechiper them, and how to remedy them.

www.500eboard.co

 

[Sasha124]

That ETA will have a longer cable, but it will fit. However as described above, I'm 99.44% certain your mechanic is wrong. Replacing the ETA will lighten your wallet but likely have zero effect on your power-loss problems. There is also NO guarantee a late-datecode ETA is good... the late datecode means the wire insulation isn't falling apart, but internal components can still be worn or faulty.

You can also buy a hand-held blink code reader, and do some of your own diagnostics. ...

Sir again thank you so much! This forum are the best!!! I asked that in famous Mercedes forum overseas in a biggest country in the world , no one even read that I already bought for 250$ with shipping that eta.. and bought new fuel filter, and thinking to buy new fuel pump in case too, can you recommend any good aftermarket one? Thank you again Sir!!! Does this bosh 69435 will fit, it looks different for me...

 

[JC220]

It is a great idea to have a spare ETA to hand anyway- good updated units won't be readily available forever. (And modules, MAF etc. Makes troubleshooting a doddle too)

 

[LWB250]

That ETA will have a longer cable, but it will fit. However as described above, I'm 99.44% certain your mechanic is wrong. Replacing the ETA will lighten your wallet but likely have zero effect on your power-loss problems. There is also NO guarantee a late-datecode ETA is good... the late datecode means the wire insulation isn't falling apart, but internal components can still be worn or faulty.

I would second the @gsxr comment about age. I had a 400E that had a Mercedes remanufactured ETA from 2009 that had a worn out feedback potentiometer in it when I bought the car in 2018. Granted, the wiring was good, but the wear components were tired.

Dan

 

[skikrazey]

I'll 3rd that. It is good to have spares. Buy the used one and have it rebuilt so you know it works. Put it on the car, send the one from the car out for rebuild re install if you wish, either way you will have good ETAs.

Search the forum, there is a guy in the states that rebuilds them.

 

[gsxr]

Sir again thank you so much! This forum are the best!!! I asked that in famous Mercedes forum overseas in a biggest country in the world , no one even read that I already bought for 250$ with shipping that eta.. and bought new fuel filter, and thinking to buy new fuel pump in case too, can you recommend any good aftermarket one? Thank you again Sir!!! Does this bosh 69435 will fit, it looks different for me...

Before you buy a fuel pump, remove the plastic cover and verify your car has the 1-pump setup. The single-pump part number is 000-470-59-94 (supercedes to 000-470-78-94) and does not look like the one you posted above (Bosch 69435), which appears to be for the dual-pump setup.

The fuel filter is also different for 1-pump vs 2-pump systems. If you have 1 pump, the fuel filter should be p/n 002-477-27-01 and will have a hose barb on each end.

Again, without measuring fuel pressure while driving, there's no guarantee it's a fuel supply problem! But after 25 years, it's not a bad idea to replace these items proactively.

Single fuel pump & filter look like this:

 

[Sasha124]

Based on your description, the throttle body (ETA) is NOT the problem. I'd start by eliminating all vacuum leaks - check all the rubber hoses on the intake manifold, and to the ETA, and all other vacuum hoses. There is no hose to the MAF. If the ETA is faulty on a vehicle with ASR, the normal symptom is limp mode - warning light on, and no response to the first half of accelerator pedal travel. Your ETA is original though, and a rebuild wouldn't hurt, but it also won't fix the problem you describe.

Wild guessing from your symptoms, which sound like lack of power under load, is a fuel supply issue (bad fuel pumps). Or possibly plugged catalysts. Need a remote fuel pressure gauge that can be viewed while driving, if you don't want to just buy a new pump... your VIN indicates a late build car with single fuel pump. Could also be a plugged tank strainer, if the pump is good, but fuel pressure drops when you accelerate.

BTW, welcome to the forum!

WOW!!! Thank you so much Sir!!! I found in ebay used ETA 000 141 89 25 I believe its updated one 2001/01 , for 200$ from good seller... should i buy? And thank you so much for all your advice, i am agree with you!

I would second the @gsxr comment about age. I had a 400E that had a Mercedes remanufactured ETA from 2009 that had a worn out feedback potentiometer in it when I bought the car in 2018. Granted, the wiring was good, but the wear components were tired.

Dan

This what I heard too, wires are good but inside coils or something like that no good )

Before you buy a fuel pump, remove the plastic cover and verify your car has the 1-pump setup. The single-pump part number is 000-470-59-94 (supercedes to 000-470-78-94) and does not look like the one you posted above (Bosch 69435), which appears to be for the dual-pump setup.

The fuel filter is also different for 1-pump vs 2-pump systems. If you have 1 pump, the fuel filter should be p/n 002-477-27-01 and will have a hose barb on each end.

Again, without measuring fuel pressure while driving, there's no guarantee it's a fuel supply problem! But after 25 years, it's not a bad idea to replace these items proactively.

Single fuel pump & filter look like this:
View attachment 105609 View attachment 105610

thank you again!!! Looks like I ordered wrong filter Mann WK845... am i? I have single fuel pump 100% because I installed missing plastic cover..

 

[gsxr]

WOW!!! Thank you so much Sir!!! I found in ebay used ETA 000 141 89 25 I believe its updated one 2001/01 , for 200$ from good seller... should i buy? And thank you so much for all your advice, i am agree with you!

This what I heard too, wires are good but inside coils or something like that no good )

If you are not getting limp mode AND not getting fault codes which specifically indicate an ETA problem, I'll repeat what I said back in post #4... changing the ETA may only lighten your wallet. If you're going to go through that hassle, have Don Roden at RFC Electronics (in USA) rebuild one for you, then you don't have to worry about it again. Just don't be surprised if a new ETA doesn't fix your loss of power.

Looks like I ordered wrong filter Mann WK845... am i? I have single fuel pump 100% because I installed missing plastic cover.

That photo shows a filter the dual-pump setup. Won't work on the single-pump setup.

You can do a quick test for clogged catalysts by removing the crossover exhaust pipe from the driver side manifold. If the engine runs normally with full power, and the problem returns when you re-install the pipe, your cats are probably clogged.

 

[Sasha124]

Will try to do like you said with catalysts, i think problem with them.. mechanics read only one error in ETA , something related with air leaks there, thats why he start removing eta... but today he showed to me why in his opinion ETA is broken.... and he was so wrong... he starts moving that trigger that moves throttle to the left and throttle moves, then he moved to the right and nothing happens, throttle doesn’t move, so he think its broken, he doesn’t realize it has ASR and it will not move when not power... I don’t know what to say to him ))) I don’t want hurt his feelings because he thinks he know how to fix Mercedes... any way i will wait for new eta, put it and will search problem and i will start with catalysts. Thank you again!!! I am very very appreciate for your replies!!! Will let you know what was the problem .. here is video how it runs , starts from 1:40m. but its on russian..

 

[Kyiv]

How hot is it where you are? Your coolant temperature is higher than it should be. Does your single large fan comes on? Or only 2 smaller ones at 107C+ ?

 

[Sasha124]

How hot is it where you are? Your coolant temperature is higher than it should be. Does your single large fan comes on? Or only 2 smaller ones at 107C+ ?

I replaced 1 year ago clutch fan it should be fine and 2 electric fans works, I don’t have lower radiator diffuser , temperature high i know but it go down, I think it’s because motor working hard becoming of some issue. Thank you for reply

 

[Harv]

Just as a general reply, Victor down in New York is a wizard with M119 throttle body repair and rebuilds. He even makes you a little video about the repair and walks you through it. Services

 

[gsxr]

Yikes... that engine temp is higher than it should be, especially when cruising at 90kph. The 2 electric fans are not supposed to keep the engine cool. They help the AC system, and are an emergency cooling aid when the engine temp exceeds 107°C.

It's possible your electric fans are turning on and reducing engine temp, if so, you have issues with the fan clutch (new does not automatically mean "good"), and you MUST have the entire fan shroud intact, with all the rubber flaps! If you are missing the lower part of the shroud, you need to get one. Under normal conditions, the temp usually doesn't exceed 100°C (the line between 80 and 120).

 

[Sasha124]

Yikes... that engine temp is higher than it should be, especially when cruising at 90kph. The 2 electric fans are not supposed to keep the engine cool. They help the AC system, and are an emergency cooling aid when the engine temp exceeds 107°C.

It's possible your electric fans are turning on and reducing engine temp, if so, you have issues with the fan clutch (new does not automatically mean "good"), and you MUST have the entire fan shroud intact, with all the rubber flaps! If you are missing the lower part of the shroud, you need to get one. Under normal conditions, the temp usually doesn't exceed 100°C (the line between 80 and 120).

View attachment 105657

Thank you! Yes i have that lower one shroud, but I haven’t installed yet.. I think temperatures go so high because of that shroud and because of how hard was driving.. maybe bad thermostat.. what good replacement for catalytic converter? Thank you

 

[Sasha124]

Just as a general reply, Victor down in New York is a wizard with M119 throttle body repair and rebuilds. He even makes you a little video about the repair and walks you through it. Services

I spoke with him on the phone , good guy

 

[Sasha124]

Yikes... that engine temp is higher than it should be, especially when cruising at 90kph. The 2 electric fans are not supposed to keep the engine cool. They help the AC system, and are an emergency cooling aid when the engine temp exceeds 107°C.

It's possible your electric fans are turning on and reducing engine temp, if so, you have issues with the fan clutch (new does not automatically mean "good"), and you MUST have the entire fan shroud intact, with all the rubber flaps! If you are missing the lower part of the shroud, you need to get one. Under normal conditions, the temp usually doesn't exceed 100°C (the line between 80 and 120).

View attachment 105657

hey! I ordered used ETA from SL500 , someone told me I should adapted that eta through star .. should i do that? Because part number is different. Also I bought new bosh fuel pump just in case.. last question how can I check my air flow meter? thank you

 

[gsxr]

The ETA in the photo you posted is from an S500, not SL500, but yes - it will fit an E420 with ASR. It does not need to be "adapted through Star". Per the factory instructions, just turn the key fully on (engine off) for 90 seconds, then turn the key off.

The only definite way to check the MAF is viewing live data via digital scanner (SDS / Star Diagnostics, or equivalent). A rough test is to disconnect the MAF and if the car runs better, the MAF *might* be faulty. This assumes there are no error codes indicating the MAF is bad, if there are codes, it's more likely to be faulty.

 

[Sasha124]

The ETA in the photo you posted is from an S500, not SL500, but yes - it will fit an E420 with ASR. It does not need to be "adapted through Star". Per the factory instructions, just turn the key fully on (engine off) for 90 seconds, then turn the key off.

The only definite way to check the MAF is viewing live data via digital scanner (SDS / Star Diagnostics, or equivalent). A rough test is to disconnect the MAF and if the car runs better, the MAF *might* be faulty. This assumes there are no error codes indicating the MAF is bad, if there are codes, it's more likely to be faulty.

Thank you

 

[Sasha124]

Before you buy a fuel pump, remove the plastic cover and verify your car has the 1-pump setup. The single-pump part number is 000-470-59-94 (supercedes to 000-470-78-94) and does not look like the one you posted above (Bosch 69435), which appears to be for the dual-pump setup.

The fuel filter is also different for 1-pump vs 2-pump systems. If you have 1 pump, the fuel filter should be p/n 002-477-27-01 and will have a hose barb on each end.

Again, without measuring fuel pressure while driving, there's no guarantee it's a fuel supply problem! But after 25 years, it's not a bad idea to replace these items proactively.

Single fuel pump & filter look like this:
View attachment 105609 View attachment 105610

Based on your description, the throttle body (ETA) is NOT the problem. I'd start by eliminating all vacuum leaks - check all the rubber hoses on the intake manifold, and to the ETA, and all other vacuum hoses. There is no hose to the MAF. If the ETA is faulty on a vehicle with ASR, the normal symptom is limp mode - warning light on, and no response to the first half of accelerator pedal travel. Your ETA is original though, and a rebuild wouldn't hurt, but it also won't fix the problem you describe.

Wild guessing from your symptoms, which sound like lack of power under load, is a fuel supply issue (bad fuel pumps). Or possibly plugged catalysts. Need a remote fuel pressure gauge that can be viewed while driving, if you don't want to just buy a new pump... your VIN indicates a late build car with single fuel pump. Could also be a plugged tank strainer, if the pump is good, but fuel pressure drops when you accelerate.

BTW, welcome to the forum!

Hey! Its me so mechanic installed new eta, doesn’t help, now he think it’s probably air flow meter... does car loose power with bad MAF?

 

[gsxr]

Hey! Its me so mechanic installed new eta, doesn’t help, now he think it’s probably air flow meter... does car loose power with bad MAF?

Yes, that is possible. But you can't verify without viewing live data from the existing MAF.

As described back in post #20, for a quick test, you can disconnect the MAF and drive the car. If it drives better, the MAF may be faulty. If there is no change, the MAF may be ok.

 

[Sasha124]

Once again you’re the best guys here thank you

 

[Ertech]

I have a spare MAF in Canada send me email if you need one
erickmarciano@hotmail.com

 

[Sasha124]

I have a spare MAF in Canada send me email if you need one
erickmarciano@hotmail.com

Thank you! I reply you there

 

[Sasha124]

Yes, that is possible. But you can't verify without viewing live data from the existing MAF.

As described back in post #20, for a quick test, you can disconnect the MAF and drive the car. If it drives better, the MAF may be faulty. If there is no change, the MAF may be ok.

Heeey!!! I brought my care over to good Mercedes mechanics and they find problem and fixed quickly... it was clogged catalysts, thats all )) so they installed temporary straight pipes , later i will install non carb aftermarket catalysts witch is made in Canada bolt in fit to e420 for $320us for 2, here is name of company: Premier Performance Canada. Thank you guys for advice Premier Performance - Auto Parts Online, Catalytic Converters, Exhaust Manifolds, Exhaust Systems, High Flow Catalytic Converters, Magnaflow Catalytic Converters, Brakes, and more.