Codes pulled with engine running/engine off

[Benzer]

I did not want to have the thread on DVD manuals deviate from the subject so I decided to start this one instead. I don't mean to bore you guys with reoccurring issues and I really do appreciate all the support I have gotten from this forum, many thanks.

Well, I decided to pull the codes with the engine running, I got out of PIN 19, DTC 25, the KS or EZL defective code, EZL is new though, or newer I should say.. Now with the car turned off I no longer got the code from PIN 19, only one blink, and I did not attempt to clear it previously.

With the car off I did get out of PIN 17 DTC #5 the KS defective and DTC #18 magnets for CKP sensor L5 not recognized, this one I think is due to a faulty connector housing that cracked (p/n 012-545-04-28) and it will arrive at the dealer tomorrow.. Below the pics of the inside of the CAN, all the modules..

So the appearance of DTC #25 on PIN 19 while the engine is running would definitively indicate the the KS are shot..?

 

[Benzer]

I just came back from a drive, secured the CKP sensor connectors a little bit more, pulled the codes, DTC 18 from PIN 17 never came back, I did get 5 again and now from PIN 19 DTC 25 will come up with the engine running or off.. Guess that the KS gotta go..least I know whats been messing around with the timing advancing or retarding... I take it its not a 2 hr job to replace these.. We just replaced some of a Lexus RX330 and had to remove the manifold and some cooling system hoses..

 

[gsxr]

If you are clearing code 5 from pin 17 (EZL) and it is returning, the knock sensors are highly suspect. I'm less concerned about pin 19 as that just collects errors from other modules. Fix the code 5 and the error on pin 19 should remain cleared afterwards.

Bad news: The knock sensors are a nightmare to replace. You have to remove the engine mount arms to access them. Which means you should replace the engine mounts while you're in there (unless they are recent). Not a fun job. I don't know if there are any shortcuts possible but I doubt it.

Your CAN modules are all correct part numbers, btw... match up with the EPC data. At least that is good news!

 

[Benzer]

Thanks for checking the module correlation for me. Yeah I guess the KS gotta go. What would a direct approach to their R&R be? Should I lift the engine from the lift points on the top or push it upwards from underneath..?

Good lord, not only the engine mount but the engine mount ARM's too...! From what I can gather the KS are on the block right behind the engine mounts..? I have access to all the equipment needed, what is a good procedure to do it with the least amount of pain..?

 

[gsxr]

What would a direct approach to their R&R be? Should I lift the engine from the lift points on the top or push it upwards from underneath..?

I think the factory procedure says to life the engine from the top (brackets on the intake manifold), but that isn't always practical unless you have an engine hoist, AND can lift the engine while also still getting under the car to access the mounts / brackets / sensors. It may be easier to support the car well and do everything from underneath, lifting the engine via the oil pan (use a wide block of wood to spread the load on the lower pan, or only jack up on the aluminum portions). Don't forget that the engine mounts have two bolts each on the bottom (plus one on the top), I'd unscrew all four bottom bolts to allow more movement as the engine is lifted. Also check clearance up top so you're not jacking the motor into the firewall, or pinching hoses or wires.

Good lord, not only the engine mount but the engine mount ARM's too...! From what I can gather the KS are on the block right behind the engine mounts..? I have access to all the equipment needed, what is a good procedure to do it with the least amount of pain..?

Yes, the KS bolt to the side of the block right behind the mounting arms. Interestingly, the FSM says to remove the mounts+arms together when replacing the mounts, probably due to the limited clearance. The FSM also says the front exhaust pipe (with cats) has to be removed - that's fun too. Again, I'm not sure what short cuts are possible. Very few people ever get to this kind of advanced DIY (and, the knock sensors are not a common failure).

Here's a link to the FSM procedure on the mount R&R:
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%2 ... 2-2110.pdf

 

[Benzer]

OK, thank you for the procedure breakdown. When I get to these I will fully document the DIY and keep it going on this thread. We do have an engine hoist, but I will assess the two ways in and go with the most efficient. Guess I will also change the mounts, I'm sure they must like carbon by now..