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Cracked radiator

DarkStar

E500E Guru
Member
Months ago I noticed a wet spot up front under the air dam. Didn’t think it was anything more than condensation as the car was on a downward pitch.

while doing belt tensioner the other day I noticed moisture again under front of car. Upon inspection it appears there is a small vertical crack in the tank under the hose connection on drivers side. 🙄 original radiator so I’m not surprised.
When I squeeze the hose it weeps out of crack.

should I replace? Has anyone had luck with using an epoxy patch?

FCP has Nissens radiator they claim oem and it’s $185 with their lifetime warranty.

seems like a easy project. Think I’ve had it out many years ago iirc.
Any suggestions or advice?
 
Get the Behr radiator. I’ve had both Nissens and Behr in my car, and Behr is better. I made some comparison photos in my top end rebuild in the project journals sub-forum.
 
:plusone:

New Behr. Preferably the South Africa version, which costs a bit more. The newer, cheaper Indian-made version hasn't been around long enough to get data on. Think RME carries the SA version? Not sure about FCP.

Remember you have to disconnect ATF hoses, so have hose pinchers handy or you'll have a big (well, bigger) mess.
 
If/when you disconnect the transmission cooling hoses from the passenger side, you shouldn't have too much spillage from the top-hose. For the bottom one, have an oil drain pan underneath, and after you remove it, try to angle it upward (as vertical as possible) to minimize transmission fluid spill-age. You'll want to refill the transmission by the amount you lose, but hopefully it's not more than a cup or so. I would also wrap the ends of the hoses in a plastic sandwich bag (ductape it around) so that no dirt or dust is introduced into the lines while they are disconnected.

Of course you want a drain pan for the coolant, as well (you'll probably drain about 4-5 quarts by draining at the pet-cock).

The Behr unit (as GSXR said, you want the one from South Africa that either RM Yurropean or FCP Yurro are selling, NOT the cheap Behr that AutohauZ is selling) will be a nice fit. The Behr is reinforced at the upper neck, while the Nissens unit is not.

Here are a couple of points of comparison from my recent thread:

Screen Shot 2020-10-18 at 12.39.49 PM.jpgScreen Shot 2020-10-18 at 12.40.00 PM.jpgScreen Shot 2020-10-18 at 12.40.16 PM.jpgScreen Shot 2020-10-18 at 12.40.39 PM.jpg
 
MBoemparts has the radiator at $261
Shipping is higher. But most places seem to be charging to ship.
pelican was $335 for Behr unit.

anyone know if there is a free ship code with mboemparts?
I need to order some very distinct mb parts anyways.
 
Don't every buy anything at Pelican. You will never find a good price for anything they sell.

MBoemparts supposedly has a 50% shipping deal (down from 100% free shipping on shipping costs <$75), but they have been having service problems for months, since the pandemic started.

There are other dealerships out there that sell MB genuine parts online for cheaper than MBoemparts.

You're going to get a Behr unit if you buy an MB unit, so price it out according. I believe RM Yurropean or FCP Yurro have free shipping?

My local MB dealer has it for $365 via their web site: Radiator - 1992-1995 Mercedes-Benz (124-500-14-02) | Get Mercedes Parts

I highly doubt that MBoemparts is selling it for $261.....and I am correct ... they are asking $377.

Your best bet is to get the radiator from:

FCP Yurro ($190, Nissens):

or RM Yurropean ($250, Behr, per the @gsxr's link):

Personally, I'd get the Behr at $250.
 
There's a different p/n for 034 vs 036, although I've never been able to tell the difference, and they are interchangeable. The #03 is cheaper than the #14 from the dealer. All the aftermarket places claim they are selling the equivalent of the #14.

124-500-03-02 (EPC p/n for .036)
124-500-14-02 (EPC p/n for .034)


🤷‍♂️
 
It seems the E420 radiator is more expensive.
 

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I got my Dad a nissens for his E420 and he did not have to make any mods to the unit at all, everything was installed - it was plug and play. Not bad for a 79 year old DIY'er. I have the SA Behr in storage for the E500.
 
Looking at the pictures, I'd be tempted to go Behr but a lot of the cost down measures on the Nissen don't worry me much as the Behr one is a bit over engineered. Metal reinforcing parts of radiators that way isn't really needed so long as you use a good glass filled thermoplastic.

My local Benz dealer has a parts website w near identical costs as MBoem...it's usually within pennies. I can ship to them for free and then just do local pick up once I've accrued enough items w them.
 
as the Behr one is a bit over engineered. Metal reinforcing parts of radiators that way isn't really needed so long as you use a good glass filled thermoplastic.
There is a reason why the OE radiators that MB used on the E500E (and plenty of other models) are Behr, and not Nissens.

Nissens has never given me a problem (I've had them previously on my E500, which didn't fail except for the transmission cooling line fitting), and I currently have one on my G-wagen, which is working fine and replaced the original Behr unit.

But the failure of a simple transmission cooler fitting has soured me on Nissens. That should not have happened.

Not to mention that Nissens is making their E500E radiators in Eastern Europe (currently Slovakia), I believe, having moved production there from their former manufacturing home base of Denmark.

Behr has made their top-line radiators in South Africa for a very long time.

Repeated heat cycles, and age, and a very tight hose clamp, WILL eventually lead to the collapse of a radiator hose neck no matter what the material used (non-metallic). This is also hastened with the use of non-MB-approved coolant, and/or an over-tightened hose clamp.

I believe that it is a quality move that, many many years ago, Behr began reinforcing their necks. Nissens has not done this, and I can assure you that they are not using any BETTER quality of materials than Behr is using.

radhose.jpg
 
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How did that happen actually ?
That picture looks more to me that someone has tried to pull the radiator up from there ?
If it should blow or crack , shouldnt be there more damage on the low quality plastic or not enforced neck?
Overtightening should collapse and break in pieces , don't shoot me if i am wrong :-)

Got a brand new nrf radiator and after first start the bms on the oe sachs clutch shoot lose and went in the brand new radiator :-)
Gotta order new radiator and viscous now apparently...

But i find it very rare to see it bending so hard that actually the metal holding the bms was bend also on one side and the bms shoot right in the radiator..
 
Got a new MB 500E spec BEHR
Had a Mahle sticker on it but the plastic castings are BEHR.

exact part number for the car, built in SAfrica
 

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I just received a new radiator 124-500-03-02 from Naperville MB for $266. It is an MB unit built by BEHR.
I will keep this in my storage. It looks identical to the aftermarket BEHR unit I installed in 2017.
There are no stickers either on the unit of the box that mentions anything about the country of origin.
Note that I was able to peel off the MAHLE/MB sticker date July 20, 2020, and expose another sticker date June 26, 2020! 😂

IMG_4009.jpeg IMG_4010.jpeg IMG_3993.jpeg IMG_3994.jpeg IMG_3995.jpeg IMG_3996.jpeg IMG_3997.jpeg IMG_3998.jpeg IMG_3999.jpeg IMG_4001.jpeg IMG_4003.jpeg IMG_4004.jpeg IMG_4005.jpeg IMG_4006.jpeg IMG_4007.jpeg IMG_4008.jpeg

My aftermarket BEHR from 2017 was actually packaged better:

IMG_4796.jpg IMG_4795.jpg IMG_4797.jpg
 
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Thanks for the photos, Jlaa! Note on the one decal it says "RSA" which is an acronym for "Republic of South Africa". This matches the photos of my OE radiator, posted on my website. Mine had an additional MB part number decal which includes COO, which your box seems to be missing.

:tejas:
 
I just received a new radiator 124-500-03-02 from Naperville MB for $266. It is an MB unit built by BEHR.
I will keep this in my storage. It looks identical to the aftermarket BEHR unit I installed in 2017.
Good thing you snagged that, Jlaa... this part number is now officially NLA (link).

There is a functional equivalent still available (see post #11) but it's >$100 more expensive for basically the same thing.

:runexe:
 
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