EGR Switchover Valve, Neutral safety switch, PN's needed, please

[T-500]

Hi Guys,

Along with my LH problem, I have an EGR code.

EGR valve itself is good - diaphragm fine, but the EGR Switchover Valve may well be not sending signals.

Living in Canada, with no access to the EPC, it would be greatly appreciated if someone on the U.S. side could give me a part# for a 6/92 500E.

Also, while we are at it, a # for the Neutral Safety Switch - as I may have to order that from the dealer,myself.




Thanks in advance

T-500

 

[T-500]

Re: Got PN# for Neutral safety switch,

Read Gerry's 2013 thread on installation of NSS

The part # he provided for the NSS was



000 545 62 06

Thanks, Gerry!

 

[T-500]

I traced out the switchover valve, and vacuum lines, and removed the headlight plenum and the snorkel to get out the unit and send it off.

Now I'm feeling foolish because I don't have the number on hand, to share with other readers here.

Very sorry about that.

I suppose I have everything I need now, I suppose.

Thank you, everyone.

 

[gsxr]

Sean, are you sure it's the solenoid causing your EGR code? I'd start by tracing out the vacuum tubing first, make sure everything is intact, including the rubber fittings which like to grow holes. Replace anything that is suspect. If all the vac plumbing is OK, next suspect would be the EGR tube which goes inside the lower intake manifold, it can get plugged with oily crud.

Anyway - I believe the solenoid p/n is: 001-540-86-97

 

[T-500]

Hi Dave,

Thank you.

The tube under the EGR is clean.

Good point about the tubing.

It is connected, but it looks like it's seen better days.

The module is $75 !

I'll check the tubing out.

Cheers

Sean

 

[T-500]

Pulled codes today:

You can see that I had a brake light switch sensor code, RPM sensor code, the EGR appears to work, but the air pump is not coming on. Also LH1 fail.

New NSS arrives tomorrow.

I may not have access to the code reader again.

Any ideas.

Car runs well, and Limp has not repeated yet, although I may not have pushed it hard enough.

Hopefully, these photos came through.

 

[gsxr]

Sean, the air pump only runs for a short time after a cold start... that may not be an issue. The air injection error code can be misleading, could be an airflow issue with the pump, not electrical.

Can you tell us more about the code reader used? Maybe some photos of the unit/label etc? Never seen anything quite like that, doesn't appear to be factory. The code numbers on your last screen shot don't align with factory codes, which is fishy. And the air mass reading is clearly wrong if the engine was running at the time.

NSS replacement is a good idea, brake light switch MIGHT be an issue here. These issues can be very intermittent and it might be a while before it would trigger limp mode again. On my car, limp mode was more likely to occur at full throttle, not sure why.

 

[samiam44]

I think someone here was saying that the german was badly translated for the error code and it was really the relay and not the switch(?).


Cannot seem to find the posting


Michael

 

[maw1124]

...the air pump only runs for a short time after a cold start... that may not be an issue.

Not to thread jack, but my pump is loud for the minute or so that it runs, it's annoying, and it's been suggested to simply remove it. In FL, it seems to be a relic of a by-gone emissions era. Any thoughts on that idea, of removing it?

maw

 

[gsxr]

Not to thread jack, but my pump is loud for the minute or so that it runs, it's annoying, and it's been suggested to simply remove it. In FL, it seems to be a relic of a by-gone emissions era. Any thoughts on that idea, of removing it?

You can disable the smog pump so it doesn't run, but you will get a CEL triggered after a few cold starts. There's no way to fool the DM into keeping the CEL off, but you could pull the bulb, and periodically check for DM faults manually.

 

[gerryvz]

The pumps are a pain and hella expensive to buy. Even rebuilt units are not cheap. I have a spare from an E420 that I got a couple of years ago from a yard, for when that day comes.....

 

[samiam44]

We have a member here whom has rebuilt his.. bearings are common. I think the front one is the only one of difficulty.


Somewhere I have a link where someone does a Porsche air pump overhaul.


Michael

 

[maw1124]

I just read up on another thread where a guy indicated you can disable part of it, leaving the magnetic coil and signal to get no CEL. It sort of made since to me (although I didn't memorize it). I may give that a whirl. If I can disable it while tricking the computer (via the magnet) to think it's still operational, that looks like a win to me. It all seems like a science project, but given the price of a new one with install, I think it's worth a look.

Here it is: "For what it's worth, I've been running my 95 E320 with the magnetic clutch engagement disc removed. (magnetic coil still connected...) No CEL. I'm not sure but I think the computer is satisfied when it sees a current draw when the magnet is supposed to be active???? I think the computer also checks for the vac switchover valve function--no change if you just remove the magnetic engagement disc."

I was actually coming back to delete this thread jack, but thanks for your thoughts Gents.

Cheers,

maw

 

[T-500]

@#7 Dave

Thx for the response.

I don't recall the air pump coming on, at all.

Borrowed the scanner from an MB Tech from a local MB
Corporate Dealership.

It is not company issue, but his personal
one that he uses on his own cars.


I will try to find out what kind it is, and brand.

NSS arrived by end of day today - will put it in tomorrow.

 

[T-500]

Well, got the Neutral Safety Switch installed today - not a big job, about an hour or so on the hoist.

However, tranny cross brace had to be removed to get at it reliably.

Old switch was definitely a bit loose, and turned easily.

Took the car for boot right after - two fast starts and kickdown - no Limp Home, so far...

For the past two days, starting it cold - fired quickly, but stumbled when put into gear.

I'll see if that happens tomorrow morning.

I have been dealing with a bit of a battery drain that I thought was due to an old amp that I removed.

Perhaps not - maybe the low voltage issue has returned and is causing stumble.


Dave,
The code reader was a Launch, red in colour, with special adapters for the CAN.

I had no access to it today.

 

[T-500]

Started my car today - engine cold.

The former stumble, did not appear.

I made a couple of quick runs - hard acceleration from a near stop - no Limp Home... yet!

New Neutral Switch seems to have worked - we'll see.

 

[T-500]

Thanks to all on the 500Eboard for their help.


Gerry, your site is a wonderful resource!

 

[Lowman]

NSS is often a culprit for the error codes you had on your car.
But there is no need actually to remove the gearbox rear mount to change the NSS.but you will benefit of lowering the rear mount to get abit more space between the gearbox tunnel and the NSS ..

The CAN error you read...can be just to reseat the ecu "s in the can box...as most likely the CAN wires are OK.

I had the same error..no can received..and i measured all the CAN wires..from LH...to ASR....to EZL ..and they were all fine....and reseated the ECU"S..and the CAN receive error has not come on since.

 

[Lowman]

here is some pics of my old NSS...i opened it ..and found abit of corrosion...aswell as poor contact on the "leaf contacts"...so was well worth the money spent...and my car has not had a fault since replacing it.i had error code on the NSS...and the car could sometimes stall when starting to accelerate..and it could jerk when accelerating to 20...30 miles n hour..like power was shut of..and turned back on for a millisecond..

its been fine since i changed the NSS.