• Hi Guest !

    Welcome to the 500Eboard forum.

    Since its founding in late 2008, 500Eboard has become the leading resource on the Internet for all things related to the Mercedes-Benz 500E and E500. In recent years, we have also expanded to include the 400E and E420 models, which are directly related to the 500E/E500.

    We invite you to browse and take advantage of the information and resources here on the site. If you find helpful information, please register for full membership, and you'll find even more resources available. Feel free to ask questions, and make liberal use of the "Search" function to find answers.

    We hope you will become an active contributor to the community!

    Sincerely,
    500Eboard Management

Electrical draw help please 97 SL500

jeff0093

E500E Guru
Member
Hi Guys, Need some help on my dads 1997 SL500 the car is not able to be park inside right now, so we can't use the trunk mounted c-tek battery maintainer, and I'm not having any luck with the new solar battery maintainer. The battery is going flat after about 4 or 5 days. Looking back with the history of the car it's always had this issue since day one. The car has a constant .12 amp draw, maximum factory spec I'm seeing for a alarm car is .085 amp. We disconnected every fuse, relay and control unit in the trunk, engine bay as well as the alternator. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Hi Guys, Need some help on my dads 1997 SL500 the car is not able to be park inside right now, so we can't use the trunk mounted c-tek battery maintainer, and I'm not having any luck with the new solar battery maintainer. The battery is going flat after about 4 or 5 days. Looking back with the history of the car it's always had this issue since day one. The car has a constant .12 amp draw, maximum factory spec I'm seeing for a alarm car is .085 amp. We disconnected every fuse, relay and control unit in the trunk, engine bay as well as the alternator. Anyone have any ideas?

The seat modules located in the floor below the seats are unfused...
:shitnot:
 
Thanks Kink we will check this tomorrow, any other relays we might be missing.

[TABLE="width: 979"][TR][TD]Item
[/TD][TD]Designation
[/TD][TD]Coordinates
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]G1
[/TD][TD]Battery
[/TD][TD]2A
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]K20/1
[/TD][TD]High pressure/return pump relay
[/TD][TD]9A
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]N3/4
[/TD][TD]HFM-SFI [HFM] control unit
[/TD][TD]5L
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]N16/1
[/TD][TD]Base module (GM)
[/TD][TD]4A
5A
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]N47-1
[/TD][TD]ASR/SPS [PML] control unit
[/TD][TD]8A
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]N47-2
[/TD][TD]ETS/SPS [PML] control unit
[/TD][TD]7A
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]N47-5
[/TD][TD]ESP, SPS [PML] and BAS control unit
[/TD][TD]4L
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]N48
[/TD][TD]BAS control unit
[/TD][TD]6L
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]N59/1
[/TD][TD]Diagnostic module (OBD II)
[/TD][TD]7L
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]W10
[/TD][TD]Ground (battery)
[/TD][TD]2D
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]X4/1
[/TD][TD]Terminal block (circuit 30, interior)
[/TD][TD]1E
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]X4/10
[/TD][TD]Circuit 30/30Ü/61e/87L terminal block (6-pin)
[/TD][TD]3E
[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]
proxy.php
 
Jeff, try pulling the BM/GM (Basic Module / General Module) out of the CAN box and see if the draw stops. Easy check to rule out potential CAN box / 38-pin connector issues.

:shocking:
 
Jeff, try pulling the BM/GM (Basic Module / General Module) out of the CAN box and see if the draw stops. Easy check to rule out potential CAN box / 38-pin connector issues.

:shocking:


Thanks GSXR,

We will check this tomorrow, and Klink thanks for the phone time tonight and a couple new ideas.


Jeff-
 
Hi, We checked everything listed and then some, still between .12 to .15 draw. We are going to but things back and do a full scan next.
 
We had some time to get back on the R129 and found the draw, the aftermarket K40 radar was wired to the fuse box and fused, but in the harness that "look decent" had a couple other leads that were not fused that we didn't see at first. So finally the draw is gone (eight hours into it) One bad thing that happen is we broke the cluster removing during testing and we even had the correct removal tools. I'm in need of a used cluster or just the lens does anyone know what other model cars have the same cluster. I think the R129 and W140 clusters are the same can anyone confirm this for me. The cluster is NLA from MB and I really only need the plastic, but would take a complete cluster.

Jeff-

proxy.php




proxy.php



proxy.php
 
That's how everyone removes his first 129 or 140 cluster...
Cluster housing may be available separately. Shoot me a VIN.
 
One bad thing that happen is we broke the cluster removing during testing and we even had the correct removal tools.

Jeff-

the correct tool also needs "proper use"....you have not pulled where the cluster is supposed to be pulled....there are grooves..or hooks in the plastic housing that the grabbing tool is supposed to hook into..and NOT the edge of the glass :)
just saying :)but no intention of "making you feel worse"....shit happens.guess someone can sort you out with a new /used front glass.greeeeetings mister :)

Another thing i noticed....i see the tools you have are 126 partsnumber....and got the orange "things" on them...making them NOT go far enough into the sides...maybe they dont catch on long enough in there..to grap the "hooks" on the instrument cluster.The ones I have ..are 140 partsnumber..and does not have the "orange" thingys..on them..meaning you can slide them longer in there..just a heads up.
 
Last edited:
Have your dealer contact check this out, but I come up with cluster housing part number 140 540 11 24 5215. They show 51 available in Germany. Dealer suggested list is about $320, so it probably costs them about $200 to get it in the door.
 
the correct tool also needs "proper use"....you have not pulled where the cluster is supposed to be pulled....there are grooves..or hooks in the plastic housing that the grabbing tool is supposed to hook into..and NOT the edge of the glass :)
just saying :)but no intention of "making you feel worse"....shit happens.guess someone can sort you out with a new /used front glass.greeeeetings mister :)

Another thing i noticed....i see the tools you have are 126 partsnumber....and got the orange "things" on them...making them NOT go far enough into the sides...maybe they dont catch on long enough in there..to grap the "hooks" on the instrument cluster.The ones I have ..are 140 partsnumber..and does not have the "orange" thingys..on them..meaning you can slide them longer in there..just a heads up.

Yeah, didn't have time to go there yet, but what Lowman said...
 
Man, those are some old-skool hooks. In recent years, the hooks are a 140 589 part number....
 
We grab the grooves, but they slipped out and caught the glass. Maybe the 126 tool isn't correct I borrowed them from a friend that's all he had, it looks like it was the first time the cluster was out. Thanks Klink for the part # I'll try and order this from one of my guys.
 

Who has viewed this thread (Total: 1) View details

Back
Top