Engine Stalling / Kickdown issues

[Matin]

Hi Guys,

I'm in need of some help - I've recently had some issues with my 500E, mostly being:

• Car will stall at random times (mostly when the car is hot) - the car will allow me to restart it, however, when I do, sounds like it's running on 4cyl.
• Kick down is extremely rough, sometimes the car jerks forward, does not seem normal.

After these issues happened, I replaced the following parts:

• Insulators (BOSCH)
• Rotors (BOSCH)
• Distributor Caps (BOSCH)
• Ignition Wires (Magnecor)

The ignition coils are mostly new (replaced about ~1.5 years ago), so can't see the issue there.

Any ideas of what it could be? I'm losing my mind!

Thanks,
Matin

 

[gsxr]

Assuming the problem remained even with new ignition parts, I would replace these 2 items if they are not recent:

1) Fuel pressure regulator (FPR), with OE or Bosch
2) Crank position sensor (CKP), with OE or Bosch (most aftermarket are non-OEM)

Let us know how it goes...

 

[Matin]

Assuming the problem remained even with new ignition parts, I would replace these 2 items if they are not recent:

1) Fuel pressure regulator (FPR), with OE or Bosch
2) Crank position sensor (CKP), with OE or Bosch (most aftermarket are non-OEM)

Let us know how it goes...

Yes - the problems remained! I'll let you know how it goes, I think I have both spare parts lying around.

 

[gsxr]

Sounds good! BTW, I meant the REAR crank sensor which connects to the EZL.

The front sensor is only for diagnostics and was eliminated on facelift models.

 

[Matin]

Update on this:

I replaced the FPR today with a brand new Bosch unit and the problem with the rough idle / stalling continued. I changed the LH module with another one and this fixed the issue for this at least, so the car no longer is stalling which is great.

I took the sparkplugs out today and the tips of them were white, so the car is running lean for some reason. O2 sensor maybe??

I'm still getting an issue with the kickdown jerking / rough gear change (almost like the car is hesitating to change gear??) when engaging WOT - Could this be linked to the EZL or E-GAS module?

Cheers,
Matin

 

[maw1124]

Sounds like fuel pump, but that's a guess. Changing the FPR made no change but under load you're having issues? Have you put a fuel gage on it and revved? Are you getting good acceleration within gears?

maw

 

[gsxr]

I took the sparkplugs out today and the tips of them were white, so the car is running lean for some reason. O2 sensor maybe??

Do you have a photo of the plugs? Photo below shows normal-ish plugs for M119.

I'm still getting an issue with the kickdown jerking / rough gear change (almost like the car is hesitating to change gear??) when engaging WOT - Could this be linked to the EZL or E-GAS module?

Check for code 8 on the EZL (pin 17). If present, the overload switch on the trans is bad. There's something else that can cause this but I'm forgetting offhand. It's NOT the E-GAS but could be related to the EZL, or rather signals that the EZL receives.

 

[Matin]

Hi Guys,

Sorry I didn't respond back to this - my life has been kind of hectic this last 8-10 months, I got a new job and I'm also hopefully moving over to the USA (New York) by the end of the year.

This unfortunately means that I'll be having to sell my 500E so looking to get these small issues sorted.

I'll take the spark plugs out this weekend (providing it's good weather) and post some pics here.

However, the issue is still there. I've noticed that the engine will only stall when the weather is hot (25c+) otherwise, if the weather and outside temp is cool, it will not stall and remain solid. I'm having the same issues now at around the same time last year too (this post created in July of 21 when the weather started to heat up).

The car is also weirdly jerking and "pulsating" sometimes when the kickdown is engaged and I'm not really sure where to start with that one either.

Caps / Rotors / Insulators have been checked and they are bone dry - fuel pumps / filter were replaced approx. 2.5 years ago.

Any other ideas on what to check would be great - I'm not sure if the two problems are linked or not.

Matin

 

[Matin]

Hi Guys,

I'm starting to get quite frustrated looking at this issue. I'm having quite a few things that seem to be bugging the car quite a bit -

1. The fuel pump relay was clicking in the rear passenger seat - I have sourced a replacement LH module and this seems to have cured the clicking issue.
2. The engine seems to be "pulsating" when at an idle or when driving and letting off the accelerator - you can see the RPMs go up and down continuously. Car seems extremely hesitant and 'sluggish'
   1. Due to the 'pulsating', I did a smoke test, I didn't see any smoke come from the intake manifold vacuum line
   2. I tested the EGR vacuum and I can see that there's a leak which appears to be near the passenger headlight? Would this be a source of the engine pulsating?
3. As a preventative measure, I have replaced the following parts as I had them laying around:
   1. Distributor Caps (BOSCH)
   2. Rotors (BOSCH)
   3. Insulators (BOSCH)
   4. Spark plugs (BOSCH)
   5. CKP (Crank position sensor)
   6. Replaced LH module as my original one was clicking

Fuel pumps and Fuel filter have not been replaced in the last 2 years, FPR has also not been replaced in the last 2 years.

I have attached pictures of the spark plugs as they were extremely black and smelt of fuel.

My blink-code reader seems to no longer be working, so I'll be ordering a new one to look for codes, but, I'm running out of ideas on what else to check. Does anyone else have any ideas?

Thanks!

 

[gsxr]

The EGR vacuum control solenoids are located behind the passenger headlight, so yes, a vacuum leak in that area could be the source of the oscillating idle.

The plugs should NOT be wet and smelling of fuel. Something is up with your fuel mixture. Have you checked pressure at the rail and verified it is normal with the FPR vac hose connected & disconnected? Do you have access to SDS to view adaptation values? You also must reset adaptation on the new LH module, which requires either a blink code reader or digital scanner.

On a side note, what specific Bosch plug do you have installed? I've never seen a Bosch plug made in China before.

 

[Matin]

Huh, interesting, I didn't even notice that. I bought them from Ebay and they were advertised as F8DC4's. I'll have to pull the new ones I installed and inspect those too.

I have not checked the pressure at the rail - that's the next thing to do.

Do you know the steps to reset the adaption value using the blink code reader or could point me into the right place?

The weather has been quite bad here lately, so once it clears up, I'll pull the headlight and find the source of the vacuum leak.

I have been banging my head on the wall for the last couple of weeks with these issues, hopefully, can resolve them soon.

 

[gsxr]

To reset adaptation, after checking/clearing all other codes, you "clear" the single blink on pin 4. This resets adaptation to mean value.

If you continue to have problems, you may need a digital scanner (SDS/HHT-Win) to view live data and figure out what is going on.

 

[Matin]

Hey guys,

quick update, the car still seems to be running quite poorly. I looked for the EGR valve vaccum but it doesn't seem to plug into anywhere, there's just an open hole where the washer bottle is - any ideas where it's actually supposed to go?

Another note, my diagnostics port is corroded, so I've ordered a new one and will replace and scan to see what codes are coming up.

I took a video this morning of the car when driving, the idle seems to 'surge' when letting off the accelerator, not really sure where to start with that one. Any ideas here?

 

[gsxr]

quick update, the car still seems to be running quite poorly. I looked for the EGR valve vaccum but it doesn't seem to plug into anywhere, there's just an open hole where the washer bottle is - any ideas where it's actually supposed to go?

There's a vacuum diagram in the FSM somewhere, and also on a decal above the driver headlight. You'll need to sort out the vacuum system and confirm there are zero leaks.

Another note, my diagnostics port is corroded, so I've ordered a new one and will replace and scan to see what codes are coming up.

This could cause problems too. Click here for more details on replacement.

I took a video this morning of the car when driving, the idle seems to 'surge' when letting off the accelerator, not really sure where to start with that one. Any ideas here?

First get the vacuum system & diagnostic port fixed, and check/clear codes. Has the ETA been rebuilt/replaced?

 

[Matin]

There's a vacuum diagram in the FSM somewhere, and also on a decal above the driver headlight. You'll need to sort out the vacuum system and confirm there are zero leaks.



This could cause problems too. Click here for more details on replacement.



First get the vacuum system & diagnostic port fixed, and check/clear codes. Has the ETA been rebuilt/replaced?

Replaced the ETA like 4 years ago, plan next is to scan for codes and do another vacuum check. Waiting on the diagnostics port to come. Will keep this updated.

 

[Matin]

I forgot to say, it’s quite weird because when I use my old LH module (the bad clicking one) there is no idle surging when driving, but using a different one (I actually have 2 spares) both of them act the same with idle surging when driving. Not really sure why it’s doing that…

 

[gsxr]

I forgot to say, it’s quite weird because when I use my old LH module (the bad clicking one) there is no idle surging when driving, but using a different one (I actually have 2 spares) both of them act the same with idle surging when driving. Not really sure why it’s doing that…

It's possible that the different LH modules have different adaptation values, which may explain the difference. Can't tell for sure without live data to check each of them - or, reset all 3 and see if they behave the same after the reset.

 

[Matin]

It's possible that the different LH modules have different adaptation values, which may explain the difference. Can't tell for sure without live data to check each of them - or, reset all 3 and see if they behave the same after the reset.

Cheers Dave.

I'll fix up the diagnostics port and reset. Will keep this updated with findings.

Thanks

 

[Matin]

It's possible that the different LH modules have different adaptation values, which may explain the difference. Can't tell for sure without live data to check each of them - or, reset all 3 and see if they behave the same after the reset.

Hey Dave - forgot to ask again - do you know where the EGR is supposed to vacuum into? Do you have or know where I can find a vacuum diagram? Cheers

 

[Matin]

Nevermind, I found it. Thanks

 

[Matin]

Hi Guys,

Quick update on this -

Looks like all of my issues have been resolved, turns out that the problems have all been cured by changing out a faulty MAF / fuel filter was clogged.

The car is now running in absolute tip-top condition and is not missing a beat with the new caps/rotors and replacement MAF/ new fuel filter. I also changed the ignition wires as I wasn't too happy with the pair that was on there.

Car is now running real nice.

I still have to fix up the diagnostics port so that I can scan the car / clear codes, but the weather has been quite bad so will do it when it's better.

Thanks for the help.

Matin