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Front window regulator - plastic guide part broken
- Thread starter emerydc8
- Start date
Re: Window Guide Part?
Oh yeah... that's the slider which always breaks on the front windows. Only buy OE / Genuine replacements, despite the relatively high cost (~$15 dealer list, ~$3 aftermarket). The aftermarket ones DO NOT fit properly and are likely to break while attempting installation.
P/N: 126-720-00-42
https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-slide-assembly-1267200042/
These are not fun to install, as the glass must be loosened and tilted, and it's hard to get it back in the felt channel. Don't run the window all the way up/down until you've confirmed it's all seated properly. Very common failure on 124's, I bet a lot of people don't even realize it when this part is broken.
Oh yeah... that's the slider which always breaks on the front windows. Only buy OE / Genuine replacements, despite the relatively high cost (~$15 dealer list, ~$3 aftermarket). The aftermarket ones DO NOT fit properly and are likely to break while attempting installation.
P/N: 126-720-00-42
https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-slide-assembly-1267200042/
These are not fun to install, as the glass must be loosened and tilted, and it's hard to get it back in the felt channel. Don't run the window all the way up/down until you've confirmed it's all seated properly. Very common failure on 124's, I bet a lot of people don't even realize it when this part is broken.
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Re: Window Guide Part?
Hi Arnt,
No, this was me just trying to get the window regulator out of the door. The motor was stuck in the up position and the shop manual has you lower it almost completely down (20mm above the sealing strip) to get the nuts and bolts off the lifting arm. I couldn't do this so I had to be creative and remove whatever nuts and bolts I could reach. In doing so, I think I knocked this guide out of place. Thanks to Dave, I have two of these guides on order from Napperville.
It just strikes me - could this be a door slamming issue?
As we say in Norway; don't slam the door through the car - it won't fit on the opposite side anyway!
Hi Arnt,
No, this was me just trying to get the window regulator out of the door. The motor was stuck in the up position and the shop manual has you lower it almost completely down (20mm above the sealing strip) to get the nuts and bolts off the lifting arm. I couldn't do this so I had to be creative and remove whatever nuts and bolts I could reach. In doing so, I think I knocked this guide out of place. Thanks to Dave, I have two of these guides on order from Napperville.
Re: Window Guide Part?
GSXR has an interesting avatar history, indeed. But there is definite resemblance to üter, though I don’t think GSXR has Üter’s “moobs”.
GSXR has an interesting avatar history, indeed. But there is definite resemblance to üter, though I don’t think GSXR has Üter’s “moobs”.
Re: Window Guide Part?
You weren't kidding, Dave. I replaced the window motor today which took about three hours due to the difficulty I had with the new plastic window guide interfering with the front part of the window's ability to stay in the felt channel. Finally, I broke the new plastic guide and just installed the window without it. Now I have window slap if I roll it all the way down and then raise it. I ordered two guides for the job just in case but ran out of daylight so I buttoned it up for another day.
I'm not sure how this guide is supposed to be positioned because the old guide was found in the bottom of my door. Does anyone know if the guide in the picture is positioned correctly? The black vertical track (outlined in red) makes it really difficult to install this guide. With the front part of the window tilted all the way down and the guide installed like in the picture, the front part of the window does not want to slide into the felt channel. It moves outboard of the channel.
You weren't kidding, Dave. I replaced the window motor today which took about three hours due to the difficulty I had with the new plastic window guide interfering with the front part of the window's ability to stay in the felt channel. Finally, I broke the new plastic guide and just installed the window without it. Now I have window slap if I roll it all the way down and then raise it. I ordered two guides for the job just in case but ran out of daylight so I buttoned it up for another day.
I'm not sure how this guide is supposed to be positioned because the old guide was found in the bottom of my door. Does anyone know if the guide in the picture is positioned correctly? The black vertical track (outlined in red) makes it really difficult to install this guide. With the front part of the window tilted all the way down and the guide installed like in the picture, the front part of the window does not want to slide into the felt channel. It moves outboard of the channel.
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Jon, yup, this is loads of fun! It appears you have the guide in the correct location on the window track. See attached pic from FSM.
However, I've always installed it with the glass near the bottom, and the door speaker removed for access to that area. I don't know if it's possible to get it attached with the window anywhere else...
However, I've always installed it with the glass near the bottom, and the door speaker removed for access to that area. I don't know if it's possible to get it attached with the window anywhere else...
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emerydc8: I did this job a few months ago and pretty sure Dave is correct. I should have taken photos but from memory the window was 3/4 of the way down and I also removed the door speaker for better access. Installation is not intuitive...I stared at it for quite a while. As I recall I simply pushed the glass away from the aluminum channel ( towards the door ) and this created a gap so I could slide the new guide in the channel from left to right far enough so it was in position. My window did not jump out of the felt track. Also I can't remember if the curved plastic guide is positioned vertical as in your photo or horizontal. Maybe the guide fits in the channel one way only which would answer this question.
Regards,
Peter Weissman
Regards,
Peter Weissman
Thanks guys. So, there was no need to disconnect a lifting arm and tilt the window down in the front? That's good news. I'll take the speaker out and try it.
Maybe I missed it in the FSM, but when I installed the motor onto the lifting arms, I wasn't sure if the spring on the arms needed to be under tension with the sprocket of the motor. I ended up positioning the motor wrong (under tension) and had to hook it up and activate it before it was mounted to get the whole assembly to shift to the right so the three studs would line up with the holes.
Maybe I missed it in the FSM, but when I installed the motor onto the lifting arms, I wasn't sure if the spring on the arms needed to be under tension with the sprocket of the motor. I ended up positioning the motor wrong (under tension) and had to hook it up and activate it before it was mounted to get the whole assembly to shift to the right so the three studs would line up with the holes.
I'm not certain. I've always had to disconnect the lift arm and tilt the glass, but it's equally possible there's a trick I've been missing!
The regulator R&R is equally fun... had to do that a couple times as well. Generally need to bump the motor around a bit to get things in the right position so all the mounting points line up. Doesn't help that I typically do this stuff once every 5-7 years so I've forgotten all I learned from the last time. Maybe Gerry's brother Kent has a video or something.
Same here. The passenger side was done a few years ago and went as smooth as glass. The FSM is not very helpful here. I'll see if Kent has a video on this.
Do you remember if the slider/guide had to be positioned along the horizontal rail a specific distance from the end, or did you just push it up against the upper lifting arm slider and let that slider push it over when the window is rolled up? It's still not apparent to me what the guide is pressing up against. Maybe the inside of the door?
The guide slides up & down, and any position that allows the 3 items to connect is all you need (vertical rail, guide, and aluminum window channel). The plastic guide clips over the vertical rail, and runs up / down the back side. I lubricate this rail & slider with Gleitpaste; not sure if that is the ideal goop, but it's worked so far. Ditto for the regulator gear teeth. Guess I should take some photos next time I have to change one of these puppies.
Great videos. That slider at the very end of the first video looks like it is installed differently than I tried to install mine. I'll have to pull off the panel and take another look. The video did answer the question of how to position the motor when mounting on the lifter arms -- about half way. Thanks!
The guide slides up & down, and any position that allows the 3 items to connect is all you need (vertical rail, guide, and aluminum window channel). The plastic guide clips over the vertical rail, and runs up / down the back side. I lubricate this rail & slider with Gleitpaste; not sure if that is the ideal goop, but it's worked so far. Ditto for the regulator gear teeth. Guess I should take some photos next time I have to change one of these puppies.
Well, this one has me stumped. I can't figure out how to attach this guide such that it will allow the window to raise all the way up without crushing it. It will fit okay when rolled down, but as the window rolls up it smashes the guide because the space between the window and vertical rail narrows. I guess I could take the other door panel off and see how it's attached but for right now I just wrapped the bottom of the vertical rail with Gorilla Tape and it's keeping the window from slapping at the bottom when it starts to roll up. I can't find any good pictures of how this guard is installed. Uncle Kent needs to do a video on this.
ADDENDUM:
The reason I couldn’t install the plastic guide (slider) at the time was that the vertical track was bent at the bottom, keeping me from slipping the guide into it. This likely happened when the original guide broke and the metal part hooked onto the bottom edge of the vertical track as the window was raised. At the time I saw the bend but thought it was designed that way. A pair of vice grips were used to bend it back.
The reason I couldn’t install the plastic guide (slider) at the time was that the vertical track was bent at the bottom, keeping me from slipping the guide into it. This likely happened when the original guide broke and the metal part hooked onto the bottom edge of the vertical track as the window was raised. At the time I saw the bend but thought it was designed that way. A pair of vice grips were used to bend it back.
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