Fuel pump/relay and multiple other problems after 4 years in storage and 7 without use

[pablo2696]

I need some advice. I have a 93 500E and I replaced the fuel pumps, filter, and the relay (used relay) back in June because the car wasn't starting after being stored for 4 years. I solved the fuel problem and since then, I've been restoring the car.

Today when I tried to start the car after restoring all the injectors and replacing the lower engine harness, the engine would crack but not fire. I checked the fuel rail by the intake manifold and there wasn't any fuel pressure at all. I don't hear any sound coming from the pumps when I put the car in ignition.

However, I realized that every time I disconnect and connect again the battery the fuel pumps work only for the first time I put it in ignition and sometimes the engine starts but it stalls immediately. If I try again and put the key in ignition, the fuel pumps won't work. I have to go back to disconnect and connect the battery to get the fuel pumps to work for the first time I put the car in ignition. I don't hear a clicking sound coming from the relay and I know the fuel pumps work because I can hear them every time I put the car ignition for the first time after disconnecting and connecting the battery.

Since the relay I got back in June was used, I was thinking that maybe this could be the problem... but what do you all think? Is there anything else I should check?

 

[Kyiv]

Do all fuses, including in base module check out? Have you tried another LH module?

 

[pablo2696]

Do all fuses, including in base module check out? Have you tried another LH module?

Thanks for the quick reply kiev!

I will check the fuses first thing tomorrow. Is there any other fuse box other than the one next to the brake fluid reservoir? Where can I find the base module? I don't have another LH module to try with... I'll have to get if mine has gone bad but I rather exhaust all possibilities before buying it

 

[Kyiv]

Base module is in the same place where LH module is, under the hood, passages side, close to windshield, under the black cover. The module itself has a see-through plastic cover. Under the cover there are x4 10 amp, red-colored fuses. Check if none are blown

 

[gsxr]

Ditto everything kiev said above. The fuel pump relay is triggered by the LH module. Normally when you turn the key to position 2 (lights + sirens, before the starter engages) the pumps should run for ~2 seconds and then turn off. Then they should turn back on when cranking and remain on when the engine fires. Sounds like the latter is not happening.

As a TEST, you can short the contacts at the relay to force the pumps to run, and see if the engine starts & runs normally. If so, the issue would be in the pump control logic, and swapping the LH module would be the next diagnostic step.

 

[pablo2696]

Thank you guys for the help. So today I checked all fuses as indicated and all of them are working fine. I cleaned them and replaced some of them that looked rusted although they worked perfectly fine according to my voltmeter. Also checked the the fuses inside the base module and they also work fine. Just after cleaning them all I started the car and I don't understand why the car now starts perfectly fine... Every time I want to start it, it starts and I don't have the problem I used to have in which I had to disconnect and reconnect the battery to get the engine to start.

Now I have another problem tho... whenever I put the car in R or D it looses a lot of power and if I accelerate the RPMs dont go up (might be a fuel problem...?). When in R/D the RPMs go as low as 300 and sometimes it even stalls. Pressing the accelerator does nothing to the RPMs. If I put the gear again in N or P the RPMs go back to normal (around 500-600) Any idea of what might the issue be?

 

[Kyiv]

How are the caps, rotors and back side of the insulators? Have you replaced them after the car seat for 4 years?

 

[pablo2696]

How are the caps, rotors and back side of the insulators? Have you replaced them after the car seat for 4 years?

I haven't replaced them and I have no clue when was the last time my grandpa replaced them... Give the conditions right now, would you rule out the LH module or fuel relay have gone bad? I might consider calling an experienced Mercedes mechanic that is a friend of my grandpa to see if he can come and check the car.

 

[Kyiv]

They caps are know to be troublesome parts. I had new Bosch caps go bad after just 5,000 miles. Pull them off - it's easy, 10 min per side - including the insulators and inspect them. See see post #1. Extremely highly likely they are an issue, especially given that the car set for 4 years in humid Costa Rican climate.

"Distributor caps and rotors are responsible for passing the voltage from the ignition coils to the engine's cylinders in order to ignite the fuel-air mixture inside and power the engine. The coil connects directly to the rotor, and the rotor spins inside the distributor cap"

 

[pablo2696]

They caps are know to be troublesome parts. I had new Bosch caps go bad after just 5,000 miles. Pull them off - it's easy, 10 min per side - including the insulators and inspect them. See see post #1. Extremely highly likely they are an issue, especially given that the car set for 4 years in humid Costa Rican climate.

"Distributor caps and rotors are responsible for passing the voltage from the ignition coils to the engine's cylinders in order to ignite the fuel-air mixture inside and power the engine. The coil connects directly to the rotor, and the rotor spins inside the distributor cap"

I will check them tomorrow with the mechanic. I'll update you as soon as I have a diagnosis. Thanks a lot!

 

[gsxr]

Now I have another problem tho... whenever I put the car in R or D it looses a lot of power and if I accelerate the RPMs dont go up (might be a fuel problem...?).

Since the car was stored for 4 years, you may be dealing with some unusual problems here. Has the car EVER run normally since you started the restoration work? Also, how did you "restore" the fuel injectors? If the fuel pressure regulator has not been replaced, I'd change that on principle.

One test I would do is connect an external fuel pressure gauge that can be viewed while driving. This will cost you ~$100 (USD) for the gauge + hose, but this will confirm 100% if the problem is fuel delivery between the tank and the fuel rail. Since you have brand new pumps (Bosch OEM, right?) it isn't likely to be an issue unless the tank strainer is clogged.

When in R/D the RPMs go as low as 300 and sometimes it even stalls. Pressing the accelerator does nothing to the RPMs. If I put the gear again in N or P the RPMs go back to normal (around 500-600) Any idea of what might the issue be?

This is NOT normal. Do you have any warning lights on the instrument cluster? Are you sure it's not going into limp mode where the first half of pedal travel does nothing? At operating temp, P/N RPM should be 650. In gear, idle RPM should be 500-550 but should never go below 500.

I haven't replaced them and I have no clue when was the last time my grandpa replaced them... Give the conditions right now, would you rule out the LH module or fuel relay have gone bad?

The fuel pump RELAY is a very unlikely failure. A lot of people replace them when they click, but the clicking is due to the LH module, not the relay itself. It won't hurt to swap it out for grins but don't expect the relay to cure any of your issues. If the pumps are running normally, the relay is fine. If the relay is clicking, the LH module is failing. I'd recommend buying a set of used CAN modules to swap out for testing, they will come in handy for as long as you own the car.

Also - check out all the vacuum tubing in the entire engine compartment. Vacuum leaks can cause weird stuff. Even better if you can do a smoke test on the intake.

 

[gsxr]

Also - ignition issues with cap/rotor/insulator will cause misfiring, where the engine does not run smoothly. You did not state if the engine is running smoothly when it has no power or low RPM's, or is it misfiring...?

 

[pablo2696]

Since the car was stored for 4 years, you may be dealing with some unusual problems here. Has the car EVER run normally since you started the restoration work? Also, how did you "restore" the fuel injectors? If the fuel pressure regulator has not been replaced, I'd change that on principle.

One test I would do is connect an external fuel pressure gauge that can be viewed while driving. This will cost you ~$100 (USD) for the gauge + hose, but this will confirm 100% if the problem is fuel delivery between the tank and the fuel rail. Since you have brand new pumps (Bosch OEM, right?) it isn't likely to be an issue unless the tank strainer is clogged.

The car has never run fine since we started the restoration proyect but it is getting better and better. The engine was full of slude and thats the main reason why my grandpa stored it. We got it cleaned and ever since we have replaced the alternator, vacuum lines, rebuilt the starter, replaced many gaskets and seals, lower engine harness, fuel pumps, filter and relay, and all fluids/filters. Yes, both pumps are bosch OEM. The injectors were cleaned using an ultrasonic solution and all the gaskets/caps/filters were replaced.

This is NOT normal. Do you have any warning lights on the instrument cluster? Are you sure it's not going into limp mode where the first half of pedal travel does nothing? At operating temp, P/N RPM should be 650. In gear, idle RPM should be 500-550 but should never go below 500.

To be honest I have no idea how limp mode feel in a 500E because the last time I drove one was like 6 years ago. HOWEVER, the acceleration cable was replaced and we are currently have some problems with it since the throttle linkage is getting stuck. The only light we currently have on is the ASR which I believe is related to throttle linkage problem we have right now.

The fuel pump RELAY is a very unlikely failure. A lot of people replace them when they click, but the clicking is due to the LH module, not the relay itself. It won't hurt to swap it out for grins but don't expect the relay to cure any of your issues. If the pumps are running normally, the relay is fine. If the relay is clicking, the LH module is failing. I'd recommend buying a set of used CAN modules to swap out for testing, they will come in handy for as long as you own the car.

Also - check out all the vacuum tubing in the entire engine compartment. Vacuum leaks can cause weird stuff. Even better if you can do a smoke test on the intake.

Relay is not clicking and seems to be working fine now since the pumps are working. All engine related vacuum lines were replaced and the ones that connect to/from the engine are plugged in. I have other lines that can't find were the connect since they do not appear in the vacuum line diagram I have.

Also - ignition issues with cap/rotor/insulator will cause misfiring, where the engine does not run smoothly. You did not state if the engine is running smoothly when it has no power or low RPM's, or is it misfiring...?

When the engine is at 500 RPMs it run smoothly with a light shaking... At lower RPMs it feels it will stall and it shakes more. Since the caps/rotors/cables haven't been replaced in years, they might be causing some issues so I will replace them as maintenance. If I had a misfire, would I be having the yellow triangle with an exclamation mark light up in the clauster? However, I know the engine is not running as smooth as it should because last night the cat. got glowing red and almost cause a fire... does it mean I either have a clogged cat or some misfire... right?

 

[gsxr]

To be honest I have no idea how limp mode feel in a 500E because the last time I drove one was like 6 years ago. HOWEVER, the acceleration cable was replaced and we are currently have some problems with it since the throttle linkage is getting stuck. The only light we currently have on is the ASR which I believe is related to throttle linkage problem we have right now.

If the throttle cable and linkage is not adjusted properly, it will cause limp mode, and ASR warning light. You MUST adjust the linkage per the factory manual.

Relay is not clicking and seems to be working fine now since the pumps are working. All engine related vacuum lines were replaced and the ones that connect to/from the engine are plugged in. I have other lines that can't find were the connect since they do not appear in the vacuum line diagram I have.

Can you post photos of the vacuum lines which are not connected? Or describe where each end goes?

When the engine is at 500 RPMs it run smoothly with a light shaking... At lower RPMs it feels it will stall and it shakes more. Since the caps/rotors/cables haven't been replaced in years, they might be causing some issues so I will replace them as maintenance.

Light shaking can just be old/worn engine mounts. This is not the same as a misfire. A misfire causes more shaking and the engine generally runs rough. It may be intermittent, and usually is ok at a cold start, then gets bad after the engine warms up. If the caps/rotors/insulators are old or original, replacing would generally be a good idea. But it may or may not cure your problems. The plug wires rarely fail, but if you replace them, I'd only recommend the Beru set described here.

If I had a misfire, would I be having the yellow triangle with an exclamation mark light up in the clauster?

NO. The yellow triangle normally only lights up when a tire spins while accelerating, and the ASR system reduces power to control wheelspin. It flashes as a warning that the tires lost traction. This won't happen in limp mode because ASR is not active in limp mode.

However, I know the engine is not running as smooth as it should because last night the cat. got glowing red and almost cause a fire... does it mean I either have a clogged cat or some misfire... right?

That is bad!! Either there is a clogged cat, or the engine is running excessively rich and dumping fuel into the exhaust. As a test you could remove the exhaust crossover pipe that connects the driver's exhaust manifold to the main pipe on the passenger side. If the cats are plugged, the engine should run much better with the pipe removed.

Any chance you have either a hand-held blink code reader, or access to a digital scanner (SDS) to view live data from the engine computers? This would really help diagnostics.

 

[Kyiv]

Either there is a clogged cat, or the engine is running excessively rich and dumping fuel into the exhaust

Could this be due to completely faulty distributor caps and rotors? He's car sat for 4 years in humid Costa Rican climate. Per our friend, they are at least as old

 

[pablo2696]

Can you post photos of the vacuum lines which are not connected? Or describe where each end goes?

I will send you the pics whenever I arrive home and thanks so much for all the info! I will check every thing to make sure they are ajusted properly/working fine or I will replaced them if needed. As for the scanner, I do not have one but a mechanic will come today with a scanner to check the car. I will keep you guys posted on the progress of the car.

 

[pablo2696]

Could this be due to completely faulty distributor caps and rotors? He's car sat for 4 years in humid Costa Rican climate. Per our friend, they are at least as old

So the car was parked for two years outdoors and then my grandpa used for a couple months and it had a LOT of electrical/ engine problems. He then parked it indoors back in February 2018 and it has been in his house since then. He gave me the car and we have been working on it since June last year. I will definitely replace the caps and rotors...

 

[gsxr]

Could this be due to completely faulty distributor caps and rotors? He's car sat for 4 years in humid Costa Rican climate. Per our friend, they are at least as old

Possibly, yes. But the engine would have to be misfiring very badly, and run for quite some time, to get the cats actually glowing red. A video of the engine running would help. If these parts are replaced, change the caps, rotors, AND insulators all at the same time. Wouldn't hurt to check the spark plugs as well - correct non-resistor plugs, gapped correctly, etc? Do all 8 look the same? Etc.

I will send you the pics whenever I arrive home and thanks so much for all the info! I will check every thing to make sure they are ajusted properly/working fine or I will replaced them if needed. As for the scanner, I do not have one but a mechanic will come today with a scanner to check the car. I will keep you guys posted on the progress of the car.

Take a photo of the scanner the mechanic uses. Very few scanners will work on these old OBD-1 vehicles, and the ones that do work, often have limited capabilities. The Star Diagnostic System (SDS) C3 is the preferred unit. You can buy a complete setup for ~$500 or so (Chinese clones).

BTW, your grandpa is awesome... giving you one of the best cars ever made!

 

[pablo2696]

Possibly, yes. But the engine would have to be misfiring very badly, and run for quite some time, to get the cats actually glowing red. A video of the engine running would help...

The car was idling for approximately 30-40 minutes before I noticed the smoke and the glowing red cat... I will take your advice and replaced all the distributors caps and related parts at the same time.
The mechanic only works with MBs and I believe that for the W124 chassis he uses the MB Diagnostic Tool C3 (I think it’s called like that).

and yes he is awesome! I wanna fix the car so that my grandma can use it again since it was her daily driver.

 

[pablo2696]

If the throttle cable and linkage is not adjusted properly, it will cause limp mode, and ASR warning light. You MUST adjust the linkage per the factory manual.

Can you post some pictures of your throttle linkage please? I have a feeling that something is missing in mine but I have no clue what it might be... (besides the bolt).

Here is a picture of mine.

 

[gsxr]

Looks like you are missing a bolt at the mounting bracket, but that's about it.

FSM procedure linked below has additional diagrams and instructions:

http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/119/30-1010EA.pdf

 

[pablo2696]

Looks like you are missing a bolt at the mounting bracket, but that's about it.

FSM procedure linked below has additional diagrams and instructions:

http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/119/30-1010EA.pdf

View attachment 94506

Thanks! So the mechanic never came and he isn't answering his phone. I hate feeling anxious so I decided to buy a scanner for my car to read the codes it currently has. I will also try to adjust the throttle linkage tonight to see if LHM goes away. What scanner do you guys suggest? I have read other threads about scanners but I can't make up my mind...

 

[gsxr]

The only one I'd recommend is a Star Diagnostics / SDS. The Compact 3 (C3) is getting harder to find now, but the newer version (C4) is commonly available. Just make sure the seller confirms that it supports "HHT-Win" which is required for the early 90's cars. Some versions of C4 come with software that does not support HHT-Win. There are some complete C3 kits on eBay including a laptop. Look for a seller that is willing to offer at least basic tech support to help you get it up & running...

 

[Kyiv]

@pablo2696, pull distributor caps and take some pics, and share here

 

[pablo2696]

The only one I'd recommend is a Star Diagnostics / SDS. The Compact 3 (C3) is getting harder to find now, but the newer version (C4) is commonly available. Just make sure the seller confirms that it supports "HHT-Win" which is required for the early 90's cars. Some versions of C4 come with software that does not support HHT-Win. There are some complete C3 kits on eBay including a laptop. Look for a seller that is willing to offer at least basic tech support to help you get it up & running...

Do you think these might be a good option?


MB STAR C4 SD Connect Compact4 Diagnos For Mercedes Benz + V2020.3 Software HDD | eBay

2020.3 MB Star C4 Plus Multiplexer MB SD Connect Compact 4 Diagnos Support DOIP | eBay

@pablo2696, pull distributor caps and take some pics, and share here

Yes, I'll do that tomorrow night since I don't keep the car at my place

 

[gsxr]

Only one of the 2 units linked above lists support for HHT-Win. And, both are from Chinese sellers, which is a minor concern... I know at least one person had a shipment from China confiscated by US Customs. You'd be protected by eBay's refund policy in that case. Note that both do not include a laptop.

 

[pablo2696]

So a little update on the progress over the weekend... With the help of a friend that has a scanner, we concluded that one of the ignition coils was bad and needed replacement since it wasn´t working at all... I´m surprised the car even started without spark in four cylinders. That explains why my cats got glowing red. I replaced the faulty ignition coil and now the engine is starting without any problems and feels very strong. At the same time, I now believe that the car was never in LHM and the lack of power I felt in D or R was because 4 cylinders were not getting any spark.

As recommended by @kiev , I checked both caps and rotors and I decided to replace them because they look dirty and rusty. I am getting the replacement parts in a couple days and I will be changing them this weekend.

I will be road testing the car this upcoming weekend for the first time since starting the restoration project last year. The car has been stored for 4 years and I was finally able to drive it aroud the house. However, the ASR light is still on but whenever I get the scanner I ordered (supposed to arrive here 11 days), I will see what the codes are. I also realized that my ETA was replaced sometime during the last 25 years. It is not a w124 ETA but a w140 and I realized this because it has a very long black cable... Can this be causing my ASR to be on?

Can you post photos of the vacuum lines which are not connected? Or describe where each end goes?

Please see the attached photos. The part that I have no idea where it connects is painted with red.


So after being stored for a long time, my 500E finally saw the sunlight. The owner of a reputable paint shop came to check the car and I will send it to his shop in about a month to get a full respray/restoration.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[gsxr]

I can't believe you were driving it on 4 cylinders! The engine would have been very, very rough at lower RPM's. And of course there would be a drastic loss of power.

It is possible to have the ASR light on without limp mode, depending on the fault causing the light. Limp mode will cause the first half of throttle pedal travel to have no effect. If you can move the pedal a little and engine RPM increases, you are not in limp mode.

The W140 ETA will work fine, only difference is a longer cable.

The vacuum line you show is supposed to be connected at the rear of intake manifold. See attached photo. I believe the rear-most tube goes to the trans vac modulator, and the tube directly in front of it goes to the distribution block in your picture.

BTW, could you post a close-up photo of your headlights?

 

[pablo2696]

BTW, could you post a close-up photo of your headlights?

My headlights are another story... I "restored" them to the best of my habilities. The seals were gone so they had a lot of dirt and rust inside. To be honest, I´m not even sure those are original 500E headlights but you can probably tell me that. I used another pair of headlights from a 300E to get some parts that were broken inside my headlights. Any constructive criticism is more than welcomed.

I´ll take a better picture of the headlights mounted in the car tonight

 

[gsxr]

None of the lights in your photos are original 500E units. And, new 500E lights are NLA, both Euro and USA-spec. The good news is, you can "build" a functionally correct set using Euro headlamp housings with 500E Euro lenses (or, you can build a set of USA-spec 500E lamps if desired). There's a couple recent threads discussing this in detail. I'd worry about that after you get the mechanical issues sorted out though!

 

[northNH]

It is possible to have the ASR light on without limp mode, depending on the fault causing the light.

On my CIS 3.0L CE, I briefly had a lighted ASR light without limp home mode, caused by poor contact across one of the OVP relay’s fuses...Tip-off was the relay hot to the touch.

 

[pablo2696]

So a little update on my car... I ordered a Chinese SDS scanner through eBay and according to the seller he was not able to ship it because of the coronavirus outbreak, so I cancelled the order and he refunded me. I will wait until this pandemic ends to order an SDS scanner.

As for my car, I realized two important things regarding the fuel system. The 1st one is that the mechanic my grandpa used did not know the car uses 2 fuel pumps so when he was going to replace the fuel pumps he only ordered one so he just put one fuel pump. Right now the car only has one OEM fuel pump in it. I will fix this ASAP.

On the other hand, I got an amazing deal on a new OEM fuel relay ($15) so I bought it and installed it. After starting the car, I realized It was clicking every time the engine was running. I put back the old relay to see if it also clicked and it was also clicking.. I don’t know how I did not notice that until now. Does the clicking relay means for sure that I have a faulty LH module or can it be related to the car having 1 fuel pump instead than 2?

Ps: sometimes when I try to start the car, the fuel pump doesn’t work (no buzzing and cero fuel pressure inside the fuel rail) and out of nowhere it will start to work and then the engine will start. I can leave the engine running in N or P indefinitely but if
I drive the car it will stall after a couple minutes. I think all of this is related but not sure...

Ps (2): I checked the fuses on my car and they are in good working condition

 

[Kyiv]

Based on my personal experience and common knowledge here, it's your LH module. Open up yours - it's real easy - and see if any capacitors have leaked. My LH module "produced" a clicking fuel relay and upon inspection there were 2 of the 6 capacitors leaked. I had a computer repair shop replace them all and the module has been working fine for a month now, with out throwing any codes.

Old capacitors:


New:

 

[gsxr]

Clicking relay is definitely caused by the LH module. As kiev describes above, you can probably fix this by replacing the capacitors. Or you can replace the LH module.

To test if the car will run normally otherwise, you can short out the appropriate wires at the relay socket to "force" the pumps on. This should ONLY be done for test purposes, and make sure the pumps are turned off immediately after the engine is shut off.

Many, many relays have been changed due to clicking, when there was nothing wrong with the relay itself. The cube relays have extremely low failure rates.

 

[pablo2696]

Based on my personal experience and common knowledge here, it's your LH module. Open up yours - it's real easy - and see if any capacitors have leaked. My LH module "produced" a clicking fuel relay and upon inspection there were 2 of the 6 capacitors leaked. I had a computer repair shop replace them all and the module has been working fine for a month now, with out throwing any codes.

I will try this repair method in my LH module and I will let you know what the outcome is. Thanks a lot!

 

[Kyiv]

I will try this repair method in my LH module and I will let you know what the outcome is. Thanks a lot!

Smaller capacitors are 50V 22uf, larger are 50V 100uf

 

[pablo2696]

Smaller capacitors are 50V 22uf, larger are 50V 100uf

Are these the same for all 500E model years? Mine is a 93 that with a production date of August 1992

 

[Kyiv]

Yes they are.

 

[pablo2696]

I’m with the mechanic who finally came. However, the scanner port has no power... Any clue if there is any fuse Or something else that I might have to check ?

 

[gsxr]

Look closely at the 38-pin diagnostic socket. It's not uncommon to have corrosion here, and if so, there won't be power for the scanner/SDS tool.

Photos & details here:

HOW-TO: Replacing the 38-pin Diagnostic Socket (X11/4) | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

When I recently purchased my 500E it had a crippling Battery Drain which would totally drain it overnight. Removing all of the Fuses & Relays did not eliminate the parasitic drain. I did discover that the LH module was causing the current draw as it was not shutting down when it should be. As...

www.500eboard.co

This is what it SHOULD look like (pic courtesy of JC220):

 

[pablo2696]

That might explain it... mine looks horrible compared to that one.


how do it clean it or do I have to replace it ?

 

[gsxr]

You'll need to replace it. The part is cheap, but it's a fairly tedious job. If you are lucky, you'll be able to take your old one apart without damaging any of the metal sockets... if so, just clean them up and slide into the new plastic piece. Click the link I posted above, scroll through all the photos in post #5.

 

[gsxr]

Also... your photo shows socket #19 empty, which is unusual for a USA-spec 1993 500E. And you have a connector at socket #33, which is normally not used - weird. Either way, that connector looks pretty bad and needs to be replaced ASAP.

 

[Kyiv]

I think this is the correct part # for the socket, for 500E. It's cheap. A1405450026. From what I read elsewhere, it needs to be replaced

 

[Kyiv]

your photo shows socket #19 empty, which is unusual for a USA-spec 1993 500E. And you have a connector at socket #33, which is normally not used - weird.

Pablo is in Costa Rica

 

[gsxr]

Pablo is in Costa Rica

AH, it may be non-USA spec, which would explain pin #19 missing (that was USA/Canada only).

Pin 33 is still a mystery though!

 

[Kyiv]

AH, it may be non-USA spec, which would explain pin #19 missing (that was USA/Canada only).

Pin 33 is still a mystery though!

Dave, xentry gives 3 options: valid for CA/US, valid for JP, invalid for CA/US/JP. Just to confirm, South and central American, Australian, New Zealandian are same as European cars then?

 

[pablo2696]

Also... your photo shows socket #19 empty, which is unusual for a USA-spec 1993 500E. And you have a connector at socket #33, which is normally not used - weird. Either way, that connector looks pretty bad and needs to be replaced ASAP.

Thanks so much for you help. My 500E is an european-spec one so it might be the reason why socket 19 is empty... or it might not. I'll find out about it whenever I start replacing the socket.

I think this is the correct part # for the socket, for 500E. It's cheap. A1405450026. From what I read elsewhere, it needs to be replaced

Great, thanks for the part number. I just checked it and it is $13.75 in the US so I will order it ASAP.

As soon as I replace the part and I get a diagnosis from the mechanic, I will write an extensive update on everything that has been happening with my car.

Thanks guys!

 

[Kyiv]

@pablo2696, please double check part # for accuracy. I got it from xentry portal. I think this is the socket, but do final verification on your end as well, just to be sure

General schematic, part #8


Part #8 description:

 

[gsxr]

Dave, xentry gives 3 options: valid for CA/US, valid for JP, invalid for CA/US/JP. Just to confirm, South and central American, Australian, New Zealandian are same as European cars then?

The old EPC shows 3 regions: North America, Japan, and Europe. Apparently the new XPISS tool has different names for the same regions:

North America = CA/US​

Japan = Valid for JP​

Europe = Invalid for CA/US/JP​

Not very clear. Another fail on the new interface, IMO.

@pablo2696, please double check part # for accuracy. I got it from xentry portal. I think this is the socket, but do final verification on your end as well, just to be sure

The thread linked above has all this info, and yes the p/n is correct. Is anyone having trouble access that thread?

· 1x Plug Socket – Part number 140-545-00-26​

· 9x Round Pin- 003-545-48-26 (Number of pins may vary per car) ​